Trailer re-wiring

[KEM KAI]

What quick wire splices work good for connecting the running lights? Or should I just use the clamp on ones and cover with silicone?

[croaker stroker]

...

https://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=21997.0

[Tom C]

ANCOR (or other brand) adhesive lined butt connectors are what I use exclusively, and I don't use any more of them than I have to.

I don't off around when I acquire a used trailer. I just start fresh and far exceed OEM standards for the wiring.

[davidsea]

    Unfortunately, most multi-conductor 'trailer wire' being sold was never intended for marine use - being frequently submerged in salt water - so it's just bare copper stranded with a fairly thin and cheap insulation.   If there's any tiny break in the insulation or at connections, the 'black death' corrosion will spread up the wire way farther than you'd think.   There may be some marine grade tin-plate copper wiring in multi-conductor color-coded format - I don't know.   Using the standard stuff requires some work to survive at all.   Some favor doing soldered connections covered with the heat shrink tubing that has a lining that melts and seals, others prefer the heat-shrink crimp connectors - any type of 'quick splice' is a waste of time and money.   Using rubber or plastic grommets wherever the wires go through holes in the trailer frame will save the insulation.   It's more work running ground wires to each light on the trailer, but the result is more reliable than trying to use the frame in multiple places for a ground - your choice.   My trailer has 2 aft lights for stop/turn/sidemarkers, a center 3-light bar for the over 8-foot width, 2 side markers on the fenders, 2 more up forward on the tongue, and a power/ground pair for the reverse brake lockout.   I've tried to keep as many of the connections as possible up at the tongue, which never goes underwater, but those inside the frame tubes and at the lights are the trouble spots.   It's been 8 years since I rewired completely rewired the trailer and despite my best efforts, things are starting to go bad - it's just one of those trailer things - like tires, bearings, brakes, rollers, bunk carpet, winch straps and tiedowns - that just wear out.   
   Spending more time and money increases the TBO (time between overhauls) but is never a permanent fix.   

[Tom C]

ANCOR makes tinned marine grade 16 gauge four strand trailer wire. I keep a spool of it in my shop. I know of no trailer manufacturer who uses it though, but I do.

[KEM KAI]

Thanks for all the info.  Now need to "kick start" myself into doing it.  I still have rear lights(running ones both side and middle), brake and turn on the right side.  So have been getting lazy and telling myself changing lanes to the left is not hard and I can make hand signals and the blind right side still works(turn and brake) so keep putting it off. Procrastinating is soo- easy HAH-HAH!

[KEM KAI]

Also another "lazy point", found out side markers are not required in Hawaii, just reflectors.  I might just go that route so I don't have to worry about how to wire the side markers. Easy to be lazy!

[Tom C]

Exactly which trailer are we talking about?

Which island?

[KEM KAI]

EZ loader single axle. I live on Oahu and have never had a safety check station look at the side marker lights. They check the rear lights so before I go for my next safety check I plan to fix them.  I tried looking up on it and haven't seen anything other than the rear lights.  I just ordered a bunch of amber and red stick on reflectors(6"X2"). Anyway, except for unforeseen situations I don't trailer in the dark.

[croaker stroker]

If you do it right, you'll only need to do it once. 

[Tom C]

Do you know which EZ loader single axle trailer you have?

[Hunter]

Here's what I do using shrink tubing.  The yellow piece I use is longer than what you see in the pic. 

1)  Slide all the needed pieces or shrinkwrap onto the wires.

2)  Make the primary crimp connection using a marine grade silicone connector with heat shrink ends.  Green

3)  Apply the yellow heat shrink tubing so that it completely covers the primary connector and extends out at least 1/2 in on both sides.

4)  Finally apply the black tubing

Anyway....that's what I do for trailer wiring..

[Old No7]

Anyway....that's what I do for trailer wiring..

That ought'a do it!  Nice work.

Old No7

[KEM KAI]

Tom, it's a EZR 15-18 2350. Picked up the harness from WM today, just under $30. Already have a box of marine grade connectors and a lot of shrink wrap. My safety check is in June so probably will start doing it in May if I get motivated, unless the fish are bitting.  Or panic and do it in May.  Ordered the stick-on/screw on reflectors so I'll put them on as soon as Amazon sends them. 6 amber and 6 red so trailer will look like a Christmas tree. I plan to take off the side lights and leave the holes open so I can use them to shoot water in the box iron when washing. 

[Tom C]

OK, very easy trailer to wire. Here is the parts drawing:

http://eng.ezloader.net/DwgManCD/CD2001/trailers/roller/torsionr/singlert/EZR_15-18_2350-2800.pdf

[Tom C]

With the split harness from west marine, you simply pull the duplex leads all the way out the rear end of the frame tubes, and make all your connections there, stuffing them back in the tube ends before bolting the light mounting plate back on.

Fine with me if you don't want clearance lights, but if you did, they too run out the ends of the tubes where the connections are made. It's really pretty simple. Don't overthink it.

...except this one detail: The Ground Lead. Every time I run one of these harnesses, I cut off the ground lead a couple inches behind the plug, then splice in a length of 10 gauge (white) ANCOR tinned primary wire, and crimp on a sealed heat shrink eye terminal in either 3/8" or 1/2", depending on what bolt I'm using for the ground connection to the trailer.

I typically use a length of expensive 3M heat shrink tubing (much thicker than most heat shrink tubing) to cover the entire wire loom from the ground point to the wiring plug. Spiral wrap, or wrapping electrical tape around the wires is OK, but these always get pinched sooner or later, so go overboard protecting the pigtail, including having a strain relief holding it to the trailer tongue. I'd say 95 percent of trailer light troubles are the ground connection between tow vehicle and trailer. This goes a long way to avoiding trouble.

[KEM KAI]

Thanks for the tips Tom. Will make sure I do a good job on the ground.  I got the split harness from WM, thinking easier to hook up instead of having to make a crossover. I'm a big fan of heat shrink so will make sure to use a lot.

[KEM KAI]

Maybe don't have to re-wire trailer.  Used multi meter and found out no power to left turn trailer connection, van left turn signal is working.  Power coming to left turn tail light but nothing after control unit.  Right turn works fine so probably the control module is bad.  System is barely a year old. Only 90 day warranty from O'reilly auto parts.  So found on Amazon prime at $71 compared to O'reilly at $109.  Amazon also offers a 3 year warranty for $9.99 so ordered it there with the 3 year warranty.  Hope that is the problem.  Since it's a complete kit plan to change all the wire and connection with the new kit.

[Kimbrey]

I always use the Ancor heat shrink butt connectors as I've understood soldered connections weren't acceptable wiring practice....at least for boats.  Regarding the heat shrink butt connectors be sure to use the proper crimping tool. IE you don't want to be using a standard crimp tool that'll puncture the heat shrink.

[Nanserbe]

I'd say 95 percent of trailer light troubles are the ground connection between tow vehicle and trailer.

This. Every time.

[KEM KAI]

OK, got off my"lazy okole" and finally did the trailer wiring.  Didn't have to change the wires except the hot wires to the the two right side markers.  Ran new wires to both of them and changed 4 out of 6 markers.  A while back on AO someone posted that Harbor Freight had cheap side markers so on a trip to San Diego I picked up a bunch.  Glad I belong to AO cause I get good info here.  So now after working on the lights all of my lights work.  Thanks AO members for all the good info.