News:

Welcome to the largest gathering of Arima boat owners anywhere. We are a forum based gathering of Arima Boat enthusiasts that like to pleasure cruise, fish, camp, and hunt. While Arimas are centered in the PNW, we have members across the globe. It is 3/4's water after all. Lurk, join up, and post about your Arima upgrades, family trips, and of course, your fishing exploits. Just remember to add photos whenever possible.

Main Menu

Wiring question

Started by Yachter Yat, October 16, 2024, 05:50:17 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Yachter Yat

Quote from: markymark on October 29, 2024, 08:44:22 AMBlues Seas Systems website

https://www.bluesea.com/

    Mark:  Thank you for that.  Yes, I've been perusing the Blue Sea website and (seemingly) just about every product they offer. At this point, there's no doubt in my mind, their products are the way I will go.  Just not sure which I'll choose until the boat gets here.

Thanks again, Yat
Never, ever assume that money and intelligence have any relationship to one another........Yat.
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

Yachter Yat

#76
    Hello again, David:  Just like an old horse, who keeps going back to the same watering trough......I keep going back to this panel.
https://www.amazon.com/FXC-Waterproof-Marine-Aluminum-Momentary/dp/B0CW1KJ5MG

    Why?  Well, to begin with; I don't think I'll ever need any more than 5 switches. Add to that, how compact it is, as well as how the entire switch and port installation for this little boat would involve having to cut only one opening in the dash.  Further, it appears as though that panel plate would serve to provide a fairly sturdy and stable platform.   
   
    That aside, since my preference would be to replace all those switches and ports with Blue Sea components, I'm still not sure if they would fit.  I'd want to use the Contura 8282 rockers, but the question is:  Will they simply fit and snap in place, in that panel?  Same goes with the USB, power port and voltmeter.

  From my research, the rockers appear to be close in size, but I just can't be sure about those tolerances.  Anybody know?  :shrug9:

    One other thing I wanted to get an opinion on is how most of these prewired panels have the power and grounds simply "jumping" from one switch to the other.  I just don't know if I'm that crazy about that idea.  Wouldn't installing the Blue Sea switches and ports allow me to wire each component back to the fuse and ground blocks individually?  Would that be better?  Would that be safer? :shrug9:

    One other question I had is this:  Would one of those switches have to serve to "power-up" the USB, voltmeter and 12V port?  If not, would the lights on those ports always be illuminated?  :shrug9:

Yat

         
Never, ever assume that money and intelligence have any relationship to one another........Yat.
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

Shibuminow

I am in the process of rewiring my 1511 Sea Explorer. Question, doe the switch with the USB ports fit where the factory switch fits? I ordered up some star board and made myself a panel with a 8 port switch that mounts inside. The 8 port comes with breakers. I have added a Victron AC charger and !2v to 12v Victron buckboost to add a Lithium battery. Since you batter is in the back, you might want to think hard about how this will be wired. I would have a 1, 2, or both switch even if I only had one batter to future proof. I would tie the Outboard to the Out on the batter switch back at the battery. I would use #2 cableing from the battery to the switch, I would run a new 4 or 6 gauge to the front of the boat. I would also have a 100amp breaker in the back between the Battery and a 60amp Breaker up under the dash.

davidsea

Quote from: Yachter Yat on October 31, 2024, 04:56:49 PMHello again, David:  Just like an old horse, who keeps going back to the same watering trough......I keep going back to this panel.
https://www.amazon.com/FXC-Waterproof-Marine-Aluminum-Momentary/dp/B0CW1KJ5MG

    Why?  Well, to begin with; I don't think I'll ever need any more than 5 switches. Add to that, how compact it is, as well as how the entire switch and port installation for this little boat would involve having to cut only one opening in the dash.  Further, it appears as though that panel plate would serve to provide a fairly sturdy and stable platform. 
   
    That aside, since my preference would be to replace all those switches and ports with Blue Sea components, I'm still not sure if they would fit.  I'd want to use the Contura 8282 rockers, but the question is:  Will they simply fit and snap in place, in that panel?  Same goes with the USB, power port and voltmeter.

  From my research, the rockers appear to be close in size, but I just can't be sure about those tolerances.  Anybody know?  :shrug9:

    One other thing I wanted to get an opinion on is how most of these prewired panels have the power and grounds simply "jumping" from one switch to the other.  I just don't know if I'm that crazy about that idea.  Wouldn't installing the Blue Sea switches and ports allow me to wire each component back to the fuse and ground blocks individually?  Would that be better?  Would that be safer? :shrug9:

    One other question I had is this:  Would one of those switches have to serve to "power-up" the USB, voltmeter and 12V port?  If not, would the lights on those ports always be illuminated?  :shrug9:

Yat

         

  The import switches are likely an external physical copy of a Contura switch (although it's very unlikely that the internal parts and waterproofing are the same).  If you're going this route, I'd gamble $30 on the panel and buy one Contura switch to see if it fits.  If yes, throw away the import switches and fill the panel with Conturas.  If no, you're only out $30, minus the value of the 2 ports and voltmeter.  Remember that you'll need one 3-position switch to run the nav/anchor lights.
  Yes, "daisy-chaining" power on a switch panel is a bad idea - the only fusing you could apply to all those circuits would be one too-large fuse at the panel input. As a result, all the individual circuits aren't really protected, and an overload on any one circuit could shut down the whole panel.  The only need for any grounds on the panel is to power the voltmeter and power ports, and the grounds to each switch for illumination, which I find useless in the daytime anyway.  My rule is one device - one switch - one wire to the appropriate fuse on the fuse block - fuseblock protected by circuit breaker of appropriate size for the loads connected - one (short) wire to the battery.    Separate grounds for each device run to Powerpost or busbar - one wire to battery, same size as power wire.
  Yes, the power ports and voltmeter will be internally lit unless switched somewhere.  I try to avoid aluminum parts on a boat wherever I can, especially clear or color-anodized ones, since they don't play well in salt water.  Being full of switches, this one is not likely to get washed down all that thoroughly.  I routinely use black textured ABS for this sort of thing, since it's cheap, easy to work with common tools, UV resistant, and also non-conductive.  My Arima dash had numerous holes in all the wrong places, so I just chopped out the fiberglass and built my own panel, putting things wherever I wanted.  Two big advantages:  I could do the assembly and wiring on my workbench, instead of upside down in the boat, and if I need to change it, making a new panel would only take a couple of hours.   Switch panels went wherever they were easy to use underway, and never require reaching through the steering wheel or somewhere I can't see easily.
   You really need to sit in your new boat and stare at the layout for a while before ordering a lot of parts and cutting holes.  Cardboard and blue tape are your friend to avoid mistakes.

dash cutout.JPG dash panel rear.JPG dash panel.JPG 6switch2.JPG 4switch.JPG




1996 SR19 Hdtp. - 2018 Honda  BF115D
2009 Duroboat 16 CC, Honda BF50  -  SOLD
and 19 other boats (I think, lost count)

Yachter Yat

  David:  Thank you for that. I hear you about sending for that FXC panel and one Contura switch. 
I think that's sound advice and may be the best way to definitively answer the question as to whether or not those Blue Sea switches cope with that panel. And as you suggest; even in the event of failure, there really wouldn't be much of a monetary loss involved.  I'm crossing my fingers. Ha
  BTW, I found this clip on YouTube that shows this fellow "reworking" the exact same panel I'm interested in. From the way he describes it, it appears those ports could, indeed, be activated by one of the switches.  Further, it also appears the illuminations can be controlled as well.
    Here's the clip:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gnaa2kXDmvA

    Not sure what you might suggest, but "if" those Contura switches fit, I would be in favor of scrapping all those imported switches and associated wiring.  I'd wire the Contura switches (individually) to my 12 terminal #5026 positive fuse block.
    That said, I'm not sure if it would actually be worth replacing the existing USB, Voltmeter and 12V power port. :shrug9:  I guess the question is:  Could those three simply be left "jump connected", as is, with the feed and ground coming from a dedicated Contura switch, which would be used "activate" those ports.  Power for that switch would come from the fuse block with the ground to the negative bus bar. Does this sound feasible?  Better yet, would this be correct?
    One other thing:  You may have a different opinion, but I don't like the bow light and anchor light on the same switch.  That being the case.....and with only 5 switches available, here's what I'm envisioning:  Going from "right to left", the switches would control the bilge pump (on/off only), the bow light, the anchor light, a spare switch, then the power port switch to the far left. 
    I'd actually go back to a simple surface-switched cuddy light in order to keep the spare switch free. In fact, at this point, I can't really think of anything I'd  be using that spare switch for. That said, you just never know.  Keep in mind, this little boat will not have a wiper, horn, or any other of the elaborate amenities that might be found on a larger boat; especially one rigged for angling.  Like yourself.....I've almost completely stopped fishing.  Having said that, there still may be those days when I'd like to go out and get my "one allowable fish". Haha
   I don't know, but at this point, this small panel seems to be the one that might best serve my purpose.  As I said earlier, it's compact, has the switches and fixtures that would suit my needs and (perhaps just as important) would minimize the amount of work involved, at least in terms of the physical installation aspect.

Yat
   
Never, ever assume that money and intelligence have any relationship to one another........Yat.
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

davidsea

#80
  Yes, power ports and voltmeter could be combined on one switch, as long as it was fused to support the highest-current device you'd ever plug into the 12V socket - like a spotlight.  Switch would be necessary if you don't want USB illumination and voltmeter lit up whenever the battery switch is 'on'.  No need to use 2 switches for running lights - wired as shown below, a single switch will give you anchor (white) light in one position, and running (all 3) in the other, with center position 'off'. 
https://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?msg=276676
1996 SR19 Hdtp. - 2018 Honda  BF115D
2009 Duroboat 16 CC, Honda BF50  -  SOLD
and 19 other boats (I think, lost count)

Yachter Yat

  David:  Thank you for that information.  Good to see how those ports can be activated by one of those switches.  I guess there's some comfort in knowing that they would not be "powered-up" until needed; not to mention, how that would also result in having those illuminations "off".
    In my case, it looks like the switch that powers those ports would be fed from one of the terminals off of the Blue Sea #5029 fuse block.  With that said, I'm not exactly sure what I'd ever be running off of that 12V port (beyond a spotlight, or possibly some kind of small heating element), but having a capacity of 100A, it seems like that 5029 block could well afford to relinquish a fair amount of amperage for that port?? :shrug9:

  As to the running and anchor lights:  Despite how the dual-purpose switch (that seems to be normally employed for this purpose), has the benefit of offering one additional spare switch, I still think I would want the running and anchor lights to be on separate switches.  I saw a picture of an earlier version of this Kiwi boat that had the anchor light mounted on the "foredeck".  The reason was that it allowed for the light to be "above" the canvas.
    If it turns out that I have to mount my anchor light receptacle on the foredeck, then I wouldn't want to chance it taking on water and shorting out.  I've never trusted those anchor light receptacles to be totally waterproof. For that reason, I think I would want to have those lights separately switched.
  Keep in mind:  This is just my opinion.  It's electrical.......and I still might not yet know what I'm talking about.  :jester: 

Yat 
   
   
Never, ever assume that money and intelligence have any relationship to one another........Yat.
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

Yachter Yat

Quote from: Yachter Yat on November 02, 2024, 04:40:33 PMIf it turns out that I have to mount my anchor light receptacle on the foredeck, then I wouldn't want to chance it taking on water and shorting out.  I've never trusted those anchor light receptacles to be totally waterproof. For that reason, I think I would want to have those lights separately switched.

  Looking at this pic; one can only imagine how tall that anchor light pole would have to be......if mounted at the stern.  Just think if that canvas top were to be made a bit higher. :doh:
    Given that, perhaps you can understand my concern about water getting into that anchor light receptacle, if mounted on the bow.  I seem to recall seeing other types of all-around lights that are mounted on a base.  I think they're shorter and made to fold down. Gonna take a look.

Yat


  
Never, ever assume that money and intelligence have any relationship to one another........Yat.
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

Yachter Yat

#83
    Nope!  Slept on it and answered my own question.  Fold-down light on the bow wouldn't work. Damn thing would have to be 3 feet long and always be exposed to salt.  What the hell was I thinking?  :doh:

    An all-around light receptacle, mounted centered on the bow, and just below the windshield, is what might be best.  Aside from being switched separately, I'd probably be tempted to fit some kind of "plug" in there; just to help keep it dry.  I don't know yet, but maybe this one............
https://www.bluewateroutriggers.com/products/attwood-lightarmor-plug-in-base-2-pin-stainless-steel-round-910r2psb-7?variant=45566540710141&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-11&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_qG5BhDTARIsAA0UHSIWHroYqEi0Ki9FBz0JapThkyPuvUNcwluo7g7CIeLfvTaMsp0d9PEaApHFEALw_wcB

Yat

Never, ever assume that money and intelligence have any relationship to one another........Yat.
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)