Breaking free screws with galvanic corrosion? Windshield gaskets?

[croaker stroker]

The original frames look to be powder-coated. There is no primer or corrosion preventative under-coat.

[DARice]

Id recommend haveing the frame glass beaded at a local powdercoat shop.
It would save a lot of clean up time and make the painting very simple.

If you go thru the trouble to take these to Powder coat shop for bead blasting.......why not let them finish it.
Powder coat would last alot longer than paint.

Sometimes re Assembly of powedercoated items can be quite difficult due to the thickness of the powdercoat itself. On a window frame that might be an issue .

Yep, I have fingers crossed and sandpaper ready.

[DARice]

Looking more closely I have 3 different types of window glazing (vinyl), including some that don't match any images on the Taylor Made site, so I called them, but they are not any help. If I have to, I can clean and re-use the original glazing.

I'm guessing (and measuring many times) that the fasteners I need are:
-#8 x 3/8" truss head screws--black (21)
-1/8" x 1/4" blind/pop rivets for the windows where they doubled up on fasteners (4)
-3/16" x 1/2" blind rivets for the window latches (2)
-pop rivet canvas snaps (2)

I drilled out all the rivets, so those are best guesses on lengths--if one of you recalls what worked on your project, I'm all ears!

I'll replace all the weatherstripping (3 types)--gutter of the hinge side of the opening window, under the opening window, under the rest of the perimeter of the window.

Scrambling to get all the piece parts about when the frames are ready.

Dave

[DARice]

Got windshield frame parts back from media blasting and powder coating. With the surface corrosion removed, it'll go back a lot easier than it came apart, even with the powder coat. You'll see that they tagged pieces with my numbering 'key'. Then, I promptly recycled the paper map before getting the parts back. DOH! Fortunately, it's easy enough to sort out.

Hoping to assemble the puzzle in time to put it back on the boat when we next see the sun.

[christianbrat]

wow that seriously looks better than new!

[DARice]

wow that seriously looks better than new!

It's a huge improvement. Places with extra-heavy corrosion/pitting are visible if I look for them, but honestly, I'll never notice, and now that the metal is protected, I'm happy. It'll last as long as I own the boat, or until I need to scratch the pilot house itch.

Dave

[GregE]

"............. when we next see the sun."

Silly Wabbit   

Trim looks nice

[DARice]

Started my work day at a ridiculously early hour, and just got off my last call at 1040p. But did get the windshield assembled. Given the nasty weather, I haven't lost a day of fishing due to this project. Bonus!

Then again, I have to patch the hole in the deck from the through deck seat pedestal I removed (but the duct tape will do if the weather clears and salmon are in the river!)

[DARice]

Done...except for the clips for the bimini. Getting everything aligned is...interesting.

Glad to have this one in the books.

Of course, now my wiper really stands out as a disaster! It used to match the windshield frame ;-)

[croaker stroker]

That looks great !   

[Willyjim]

I've been worrying about this job for a while and was finally inspired to tackle it when I read this thread.  Thanks DARice and others who contributed.  The pieces are now at a local shop here in Victoria BC being powder coated.  Cost should be around $400 CDN for cleanup and coating.

The bottom weatherstripping was in bad shape.  I probably should have been more careful with it but I assumed I could easily replace it.  Now I can't find a similar product locally.  I contacted Defiance Boats and I'm awaiting a reply.  Does anyone have a recommendation for replacing this weatherstripping?

[DARice]

I've been worrying about this job for a while and was finally inspired to tackle it when I read this thread.  Thanks DARice and others who contributed.  The pieces are now at a local shop here in Victoria BC being powder coated.  Cost should be around $400 CDN for cleanup and coating.

The bottom weatherstripping was in bad shape.  I probably should have been more careful with it but I assumed I could easily replace it.  Now I can't find a similar product locally.  I contacted Defiance Boats and I'm awaiting a reply.  Does anyone have a recommendation for replacing this weatherstripping?

Happy to learn that the thread helped, or at least made the project seem less daunting.

This is what I used for the windshield to deck weather stripping. It worked great and is the perfect width--shows a nice small 'bead' of rubber on each side when perfectly centered. Getting it centered just right took me multiple tries on the side windows due to the angle of the window frame base and not having a flat surface on that base (iirc.)

While the product photo doesn't show it well, 2 of the "D" shaped segments are joined with a thin piece of material--they are easily (too easily) separated, and for using as gaskets they need to stay joined together.

I think I had three different types of gaskets on the window assembly:  one for the window frame base, a separate type for the bottom of the opening middle window, and flat neoprene for the overlapping 'flange' on the opening window.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082HDZ1P1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

When you're remounting the window assembly you'll have some 'fun' getting everything set up just right so the middle window is aligned just right with a consistent gap on the side it opens.
Dave

[davidsea]

 May be of some help:  https://www.taylormadeproducts.com/hardware/mounting-hardware/

[Willyjim]

This is awesome!  Thanks, guys.  The Torrami stuff on Amazon is showing not currently available, but it looks like Taylor Made has basically the same thing.  I'll give it a try.  Hopefully others will benefit from this info as well.  I'll update with a picture when I get everything back together.  Hopefully, it will look as great as DARice's.

[Wyrguy]

I've been worrying about this job for a while and was finally inspired to tackle it when I read this thread.  Thanks DARice and others who contributed.  The pieces are now at a local shop here in Victoria BC being powder coated.  Cost should be around $400 CDN for cleanup and coating.

The bottom weatherstripping was in bad shape.  I probably should have been more careful with it but I assumed I could easily replace it.  Now I can't find a similar product locally.  I contacted Defiance Boats and I'm awaiting a reply.  Does anyone have a recommendation for replacing this weatherstripping?

I'm interested to know who in Victoria here you're using to get the window frames done. It's something that REALLY pissed me off that 3 yrs into my BRAND NEW BOAT, (June 2012) the coating was peeling off all the window frames... only response I got back from Defiance was, oh sorry, your boat was built by Arima, we can't help you!!!

[Yachter Yat]

  Willy said around $400 for powder coating. I wonder what anodizing would cost??

Yat

[DevMah]

When you're putting things back together.  Stainless into aluminum.  Try using Tef-gel on the screws.  I'm not sure how long (years) it'll hold up but probably worth the effort to stop the dissimilar metal reaction.  https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Tef-Gel-TG-01/dp/B01606TCAG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tef-gel&qid=1644773863&sr=8-3

IMO
You can use a PTFE LOCTITE product or Permatex #3.

My brother in law is an aviation mechanic and they use this on all dissimilar metals.(Permatex #3).


The idea is to insulate as much of the contact area between the two.



Dev

[Willyjim]

I took the pieces to Victoria Powder Coating on Dunsford Ave in Langford.  They were very helpful.  Haven't got the finished product back yet.  Takes at least 2 weeks as they're pretty busy.

A friend who does boat repair in Campbell River advised me to coat the stainless screws with Boat Life Life Seal when assembling everything to minimize the metal interaction.  I found it at Trotac.

Haven't had a response from Defiance yet...

[Willyjim]

I finally got the finished pieces back. They were busy and took almost a month to get it done, but the result looks pretty good.  The cost was $420 with taxes.  I should have been more careful about documenting how it goes together but finally got it figured out.  Soaking the glazing pieces in warm water helped things slide into place.  I reused almost everything, even the rubber along the bottom.  Defiance Boats was no help whatsoever.  I still have some tweaks to do, like finding the right rivets for the Center window latches and putting the Bimini snaps back on, but otherwise it's done!

[headduck]

Nice job.

[Kimbrey]

Fantastic job.  My mother used to accuse me of being a "bull in a china shop".  I more than likely would have destroyed the frame if I tackled a project such as this.

[DARice]

Looking good! I certainly appreciate not looking at my previously flaking paint!

Dave

[Fireguyfish]

Beautiful work!!!
So you guys think this process will last longer than what the factory did? If so, how long do you all think? Long term bets? lol

[DARice]

There have been reports of windshield finish on new Arimas starting to fail in 2-3 years. No idea if those are outliers.

For any finish, prep is the key. The shop I used does lots of custom wheels for cars and trucks, that last the life of the vehicals, fancy driveway gates...

Should last a long time. I won't know as its now disassembled in my garage and ready for a new home.

[Willyjim]

I don't know how long it will last.  The boat is about 15 years old.  Hopefully the frame will last another 15 years.  It wasn't a huge cost though, and a learning experience for me.  I was disappointed that the manufacturer offered no support at all, either parts or advice/instructions.  My only help was from this forum.