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Anchoring in 150-200 ft without windlass

Started by T-Rex, January 26, 2015, 09:53:46 PM

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T-Rex

I'm planning on fishing these depths in my 17 footer.
15-20' of 3/16" chain will be spliced to 3 strand nylon.
I know the anchor wont fit in the locker so i'll have to come up with some other ways to set everything up, i will be pulling the anchor with the boats power ( Buoy & sliding Ring )

It might all end up in a rubbermaid tote somewhere with anchor attached, i don't anchor that often but it would be nice to have 600' of rode, i will be fishing the 100-200' range .
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Kingfish

If the Chaser anchor locker is the same as the SR19 I'm doubtful you can get anywhere near the amount of rode you'd like in the standard locker.  I had my locker enlarged by cutting out the bottom to accommodate the drop for a windlass to operate properly.  I also used Lewmar 8 plait rode which allows you to get about 50% more rode into your locker over the 3 strand. You can check out the pictures of my anchor locker in my gallery.

You might consider the Lewmar 8 plait of Westmarine mega plait rode to gain additional storage.  It's much softer and stacks much better than the nylon 3 strand.

Good luck, Steve.
2003 19SR, Honda 115, Baystar Hydraulic Steering, Lewmar Pro-Fish 700 Windlass with enlarged anchor locker.
Retired IT Manager who loves Salmon Fishing on the Sacramento River!

Diablo

WCosterer, I don't see why you would need 600' of rode. You will see rode to depth factor of 7:1 published in many places. My experience is for overnight anchoring in the Puget Sound in an anchorage 7:1 is way too much rode because of the other boats around you. The depth of an anchorage will be 15 to 30 feet. The other boats in the anchorage will have 3:1 in calm conditions and maybe go to 5:1 if the weather gets crappy. If that happens you won't be getting much sleep. So let's say you anchor in 40' in crappy weather at 5:1 that would be 200'. I only count the rope rode not the chain. The small boat anchor kits have, as an example, for a 16 to 25' boat anchor kit 200' of 3/8" line, 22 to 35' boat anchor kit 200' of  ½" line.
They also recommended 1/8" diameter line per 9' of boat length. ¼" is too hard to handle so 3/8" would work for your boat. I use 1/2" on my 19SR. and intent to splice a second 200' on to the 200' I already have that's because I got the second 200' essentially free. One of the many things on my to do list.  :twocents:

Anchoring for fishing is another thing and you may want a different setup for that.
'98 19SR  '15 E Tec 115, '10 Honda 8
'67. 23 Tollycraft, 283 Chevy
'04  14' Western, '15 Tohatsu 10
'87  37 Roughwater two 8.2 Detroit diesels SOLD
'88 17SR  '90 Johnson 90, Honda 8, SOLD

T-Rex

I have a smaller length of rope for general anchoring already, what i'm looking to do is anchor in 150-200' and fish, i will go a minimum of 3:1 scope for calm conditions, will be using the Alderney method for these depths.

Just trying to figure out where to store everything, a new anchor nest is needed thats for sure.

Kingfish.. Thats looks pretty sweet !
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Chuck Jones

I am just dealing with this subject and happened upon this discussion.  I see most folks seem to go with the 3/8ths, three strand nylon...however I see some pretty good offers on 1/2" complete with 15' of chain, and thought that the larger diameter might be a bit less rough on the hands. dunno....open for comment and would welcome same.
(91) 19' Sea Ranger HT....SOLD 5/2013
(07) 21' Sea Ranger HT.....SOLD 3/2014
(05) 21' Design Concepts ...4/20/14

I often have silent thoughts in my head, but sometimes I worry about what they're thinking

croaker stroker

#5
Some of the ropes I have purchased to use as anchor rope have deteriorated quickly in the sun. The ones that seem to hold up in the sun are the plastic texture ones that are hard on your hands.

Don't know the difference in the materials ??

3/8" seems a little light for a boat more than 17'.

A self tailing windless is a nice thing to have. (I assume like Kingfish)
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

T-Rex

Thinking about this i should rename the title, i don't want to cheap out on rope that's for sure, but will have another look at 1/2" prices, but most of the threads i found suggest 3/8" is plenty for my boat.
I was originally  thinking 1/2" and a 15lb anchor, i think 12lb will be plenty big enough now, storage is of course a concern.
There is 2 reasons i'm looking at 3 strand, good stretch and i can do my own splicing.
Now i know there are higher quality anchor ropes out there, such as double braided nylon, but more money and i can't splice it myself. I won't be anchoring like this on a daily basis and it will be out of the sun when not in use, well for the most part anyway.
Since i will be pulling the anchor with the boats power i want the transition from rope-chain as smooth as possible (splice ) it will need to slide through a stainless ring attached to a buoy, then the anchor just floats on the surface and you hand bomb it in.

I may just rig the whole thing up with the anchor line through the bow roller (tight and tied off) and back to my rubbermaid tote, then i can just toss the anchor over the side from the side without going up front until i tie it off.

I don't mind walking up there but would prefer to be empty handed when i do so.

If you guys have any suggestions i'm up for them...
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Salmon King

Ya know for pulling you might consider using your pot puller...I do and it makes hauling all that line a piece of cake!
For that matter I also use one of my Shrimp Pot lines for my anchor line.
Just like when shrimping...the line coils right into a bucket or basket that will store in the sleeper seat box.
PLEASE...Fly your flag Proudly, and remember to thank a Vet!
2011 14' Sterling
9' Pontoon (Bismarck)
8' Pontoon (Hood)

Wyrguy

This is the way WestCoaster is talking about anchoring:



(picture, thanks to TomMac!)

Lots of guys use this method of anchoring around the lower island here for bottom/halibut fishing. 600' of rode is common as well. Easier to do than drifting when the tide/current/wind starts to push you around. Most of the 'good' HALI spots around here are small flat spots surrounded by pinnacles and when drifting, it's hard to stay on them.

IMO, more rode is more better!



...and ALWAYS wear your PFD!

Rick


Reluctantly sent from my iPhoney using this crappy Tapatalk app... [emoji37]
'Arima Therapy' - Life begins where the land ends!
2012 Sea Legend HT, blue hull, S/S 6 rod rocket launcher/radar arch
F250XCA O/S T9.9 Yamahas Yamaha Command Link Plus  iTroll throttle control
Aluminum I-beam EZ Loader trailer
Raymarine E120W, Digital HD Colour radar, Two Scotty HP 2106 DRs

Tom Mac

Westcoaster, I anchor this way all the time when fishing Halibut. 3 strand 3/8 is all you need. I would use 20 feet of 3/8 chain, a little more weight on the anchor is better. My local halibut spot is 200 feet and I use 400 feet of rode, works fine and has never dragged I use a rubbermaid bin for this set up not a chance it would fit in the locker.
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha

T-Rex

Thanks Rick
That's basically what i'm doing.
I do like the idea of the second ring and being able to cut away without losing anything, but have a couple questions.
It looks like the longer section is a set length tied to the solid ring, if i anchor in 100' i don't really need all 600' out there or am i missing something ?
Also when pulling the anchor with that system the clip would slide to the stern cleat and you would be pulling the anchor from the stern which i'm not crazy about. But while anchored its the safest way i figure, buoy and 50' section act as a shock absorber.

Does the solid ring ever warp while pulling the anchor ?

Here is a video for folks who aren't sure what we are talking about
This guy invented Alderney Ring , but he is "hard anchored" to the sea floor using only one line from anchor to bow cleat.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-7v8uiDWFnE



Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Tom Mac

Just found a photo of my anchoring gear, I think this is a smiler set up to what you are going to use
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha

T-Rex

Awsome !!
Thanks TMaC
Just need to figure out how to adjust the anchor rode length ..hmmm
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Tom Mac

Quote from: Westcoaster on January 28, 2015, 08:39:25 PM
Thanks Rick
That's basically what i'm doing.
I do like the idea of the second ring and being able to cut away without losing anything, but have a couple questions.
It looks like the longer section is a set length tied to the solid ring, if i anchor in 100' i don't really need all 600' out there or am i missing something ?
Also when pulling the anchor with that system the clip would slide to the stern cleat and you would be pulling the anchor from the stern which i'm not crazy about. But while anchored its the safest way i figure, buoy and 50' section act as a shock absorber.

Does the solid ring ever warp while pulling the anchor ?

Here is a video for folks who aren't sure what we are talking about
This guy invented Alderney Ring , but he is "hard anchored" to the sea floor using only one line from anchor to bow cleat.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-7v8uiDWFnE



That is how I use my anchor, pull from the rear cleat and never have had a problem. If you want and it is a good idea have your 600 feet of rode in 3 200 foot sections just clip together the amount needed.
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha

amazing grace

Sean, as far as storage, go to a good feed store. They usually have a good selection of heavy rubber feed tubs. They are tough, flexible and hold a lot. Mine is not round but oblongish. Wedges in pretty tight on the bow up against  where the bow rails come together. I can bungie in the rope, chain, anchor and ball. It works good for me. It is still low profile enough to not block visibility to much. Best set up I have come up with and pretty simple. Still have to deploy at the bow though.
1989 22' C-Dory Angler

1997 19' Sea Ranger hardtop with Alaskan bulkhead

T-Rex

Quote from: Salmon King on January 28, 2015, 05:13:20 PM
Ya know for pulling you might consider using your pot puller...I do and it makes hauling all that line a piece of cake!
For that matter I also use one of my Shrimp Pot lines for my anchor line.
Just like when shrimping...the line coils right into a bucket or basket that will store in the sleeper seat box.

I don't have one yet, my boat is still to clean for that kind of mess.. :jester:
I do my Crabbing with my row boat still and don't fish prawns, yet.....
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Tom Mac

#16
I just watched that video, I have one of those flimsy rings in my boating junk pile its a little bent. You would be much better off with two solid rings they don't bend.
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha

T-Rex

Yup, your rings look nice and sturdy. Where did you find them ??
I'll be placing an order for a bunch of stuff pretty soon and picking up most of it on the U.S. side. Engine service parts, heaving line, props, all this anchor stuff and who knows what else might come along...oh and maybe a case of some oil...
Even with our crappy dollar its still worth it for me to pick up on the USA side, the savings on rope alone will pay for my ferry.
Does anyone know where i can find a couple cans of CorrosionX in the Bellingham area ?
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

Salmon King

#18
I used to use a similar system to pull my Shrimp pots.
The difference in my system was it did not use a ring.
It used an anchor retrieval rig fastened to a large float.
Same principal....fasten to the cleat and drive away. 
Water pressure on the float, the rope is pulled through the retrieval gadget and the anchor (or pot)
is pulled to the surface.
The biggest difference in my system is that when the forward pressure is stopped and there is slack in the rope the item you are pulling did not fall back down.
There is a sliding bolt that slides down and provides a friction lock to keep the item just under the ball.
You then pull the rope into the boat at your leisurely pace.
Works like a charm but with the type of pots I use I had to be very careful not to drive off too fast or the water pressure would bend the pots (I had to straighten them out on more than 1 occasion).

Now that I have a pot puller the system just hangs on the garage wall.
Ah...the reminders of days gone by...
PLEASE...Fly your flag Proudly, and remember to thank a Vet!
2011 14' Sterling
9' Pontoon (Bismarck)
8' Pontoon (Hood)

Tom Mac

I scraped my rings up at work, they where left over or removed from some rigging job at the ship yard I work at. But any boat or ship chandlery will have them.
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha

Threeweight

What you guys are describing is the Columbia River anchoring system many of us use down here in Oregon.  You can buy the buoy's and one-way sliders pre-made.



Former Sea Chaser 17 owner
Defiance 250 Admiral, twin Yamaha 150's and T9.9

"Never turn your back on fear. It should always be in front of you, like a thing that might have to be killed."
       --- Hunter S. Thompson

Salmon King

That's a great picture of the anchor retrieval device TW...
Thanks for pisting!
PLEASE...Fly your flag Proudly, and remember to thank a Vet!
2011 14' Sterling
9' Pontoon (Bismarck)
8' Pontoon (Hood)

Wyrguy

#22
Those one way sliders are not popular at all up here in the salt. They seem to jam, corrode, and just become a huge P.I.A....! The rings are available here in Victoria or as a complete HALI anchoring setup from Trotac Marine Chandlers and I've even seen them at the Victoria & Sidney BC WestMarine stores. I'm sure Harbour Chandlers in Nanaimo and Pacific Net and Twine has them as well. Friends with a charter company in Port Hardy have now adopted this method for their HALI fishing and it works great. A 32' Pursuit, twin 250 Yammies, a 20 lb 'pick', and 5 of us guys onboard have never bent a ring. I've got a 400' & 200' length of rodes made up for use with a SS clip to join them together (if needed) and it runs through the ring easily. A big Rubbermaid tub with drain holes in it to hold everything.
With the painter run from the bow eye down the side of the boat to the stern cleat with the anchor/float line then clipped to it, the anchor can then be deployed from the side of the boat, allowing the line to pull tight on the clip at the bow of the boat. Never having to get up on the foredeck. Once the pick is set, fish away!!! It's an easy retrieval once you're done and no 'Armstrong' is required to haul in the rode (once again, from the side deck/gunwale)
If there are ANY issues at all while we're fishing, (tide, wind, rogue wave, etc) ANYONE has permission to cut the painter with one of the many knives that are available. Once the line is cut (for any emergency) you now float free and the anchor/float remain for you to come back to pick it up later (unless some NUMPTY has decided to 'gather' it up before you get back)
I'd NEVER connect an anchor rode with a solid connection to any part of the boat in the waters around here for deeper water fishing. I have a very good friend that lost his 20' Dbl Eagle and all his gear off of Constance Bank a few years ago due to that. Luckily the Coho ferry saw what was happening and helped get him and his two boys  out of the water as the boat sunk!!! It all happened so fast that they never had time to radio for help OR dig out their PFD's. That 10-15 mins in the water almost killed him and his boys.
The best advice I can offer, once you get your setup, go out with someone that has used this system and pay close attention. It could be a matter of your life.

Rick


Reluctantly sent from my iPhoney using this crappy Tapatalk app... [emoji37]
'Arima Therapy' - Life begins where the land ends!
2012 Sea Legend HT, blue hull, S/S 6 rod rocket launcher/radar arch
F250XCA O/S T9.9 Yamahas Yamaha Command Link Plus  iTroll throttle control
Aluminum I-beam EZ Loader trailer
Raymarine E120W, Digital HD Colour radar, Two Scotty HP 2106 DRs

Salmon King

Rick...

The older style slider systems had a corrosion problem because they were made of dissimilar metals.
Today they are a plastic composite body and the sliding bolt is Stainless.  There is nothing to corrode.

When using mine to pull pots I never placed it on the line until I was ready to pull them.
I'd remove the float from the line and run the line through the tube then tie it off to the cleat and take off.

Very dependable and cheap...I think I have all of $25 in mine.
PLEASE...Fly your flag Proudly, and remember to thank a Vet!
2011 14' Sterling
9' Pontoon (Bismarck)
8' Pontoon (Hood)

Tom Mac

If you use more than one length of rope the slider will not go past the clips, the rings are the only way it will work.
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha