Lili's new home

[AlAdams]

Advertised as new  but I am suspicious.  My advice - stay close to shore for the first couple of outings just to make sure the boat God's have accepted the offering.   :bowdown:

[RickG -VI]

For sure I'll wait for a sign from the Sea Gods.....don't want to end up down in Davy Jone's Locker!

Went to Sherwood today and great helpful guys.  I must admit I dropped your name to Keith...Rick.  Not sure how it happend.....just sort of blurted it out.  I decided to pass on the hydraulic upgrade for now. Not off the table entirely but for now.  Going with a Yam 9.9 XL electric start power tilt/trim with trollmaster 3 for speed control and steering by a ss rod connected to 2 ss nipples on the cowlings. If that doesn't work well then upgrade to panther steering or seastar hydraulic.  So in the end should be able to control both speed and steering at the helm.  Plus operate the kicker by tiller only from the back.

Will report back on how that setup works.   

Laters,
RickG

[Markshoreline]

Hi Rick,
It sounds like you're getting the full meal deal with the kicker motor... way to go!

A couple of guys on here have made cowling mount rods and like them.  Do you know if Sherwood uses a particular product for that application?

[Tom Mac]

Rick G they are going to drill holes in your cowling and put nipples for a rod I saw all the parts hanging on the rack there for the easy steer set up last Saturday that will fit your boat. If you use the easy steer you will be able to lift your motors with out having to disconnect it. The rod set up you can't.

[Markshoreline]

TM,
Have you had a good experience with the EZ Steer on your boat?  I've ran one and have never been quite satisfied with the extended distance the kicker sets back from the main on our hulls.  The biggest problem occurs because my kicker is an XL shaft and when it's lifted it really stretches the rod so that an XL rod is required to keep the rod from coming apart.  So then the rod doesn't come apart when the kicker is in the extreme up and swung away from the main but then it is too long to track parallel with the main when they are both down.
I'm sure it would work nearly perfectly on a boat that had both motors mounted side by side on the transom but the sponsons make a tough fit, at least with an XL shaft kicker.  Maybe you have some variables that work better than my setup?
Mark

[RickG -VI]

I will check on the make. For sure it is stainless steel. Wondering if a scuff on the inside and a layer of fiberglass is a good idea to support movement. I can see that if the nipples are placed in the correct location there will be good movement to both directions.  I have not heard back from the install tech but if tomorrow there is any concern thinking a hydraulic seastar setup is in order. But even that does not have a good way stock to disconnect while under main power. Having the kicker flopping around under main power does not seem like a good idea to me for some reason.  I'm a big fan of "elegantly simple" so this is plan A for now. 

[Markshoreline]

Rick, please post pics of your install and share your experience!  We're all learners here!

[Wyrguy]

Rick from Vic 2, I think there's an issue with using the SeaStar hydraulic steering set-up and their kicker tie-bar system. I've been told there's not enough room in the motor well (except for those of us with a Sea Legend or even bigger boat) for that system. I have that system on my boat, (see the pictures in my gallery) I love it, it's painless and virtually maintenance free. The kicker does not 'flop around' while running the main and both can be tilted together or independently.

Wyrguy Rick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[blindmonkey]

I have used a stainless rod with nipples on the cowlings of the main and kicker on a previous boat - not an Arima with good success. It was simple and easy on and off. I am interested to hear how this works.

[Tom Mac]

TM,
Have you had a good experience with the EZ Steer on your boat?  I've ran one and have never been quite satisfied with the extended distance the kicker sets back from the main on our hulls.  The biggest problem occurs because my kicker is an XL shaft and when it's lifted it really stretches the rod so that an XL rod is required to keep the rod from coming apart.  So then the rod doesn't come apart when the kicker is in the extreme up and swung away from the main but then it is too long to track parallel with the main when they are both down.
I'm sure it would work nearly perfectly on a boat that had both motors mounted side by side on the transom but the sponsons make a tough fit, at least with an XL shaft kicker.  Maybe you have some variables that work better than my setup?
Mark

I have the EZ Steer for my boat and used it with no issues on the 120 Johnson to the T8 XL shaft, was sceptical of it when I got the boat (came with it) but was happy after trying it. I just don't like the idea of drilling holes in the cowlings and putting in nipples. I have seen them wear into the fiberglass and come loose and make a big oblong holes and if you forget the rod is on and lift a motor there is a good chance of cracking the cowling. For some one who has mechanical ability, the rod set up that ejtomp made is the cleanest and best that I have seen. These Arimas sure make for a challenge to steer a kicker! I do have one idea for the EZ steer to attach to my new 90, welding a 1/2 inch rod about 6 to 8 long to the top of the bolt that holds the skeg/anode and threading the female EZ steer connector to the top. You would have to leave the rubber plug out but I don't think it would hurt anything and you may have to unthread it to drain the oil. I have stared a this problem for many hours trying to come up with a good solution.

Ian

[Markshoreline]

That may be a top ten idea!  Just need to figure how to keep the skeg properly adjusted.
I'm also cautious about the cowling mounts, they just aren't designed for that kind of stress.

[Tom Mac]

That may be a top ten idea!  Just need to figure how to keep the skeg properly adjusted.
I'm also cautious about the cowling mounts, they just aren't designed for that kind of stress.

I don't think it will be hard to adjust it will still tighten up the same, just the wrench will go in a different place. In my books the bath mat is still # 1 good idea, my idea may be a 8 if it works, the parts are in my work pants pocket now and I will be starting to track down the parts tomorrow.

[RickG -VI]

Yes the E-Z steer certainly has good applications and agreed the Arima kicker setup has challenges.  For leaving an Arima in a marina and getting to the back of the engines (cause that is the only way it will work on a Arima) when it needs adjustment (and it certainly will)  is an issue. I need to be able to easily reach whatever connection needs service.  Thanks for the input on the cowling nipple wear. For sure this is a concern....but not a show stopper IMO.  For sure will post my experience. 

[StreamFixer]

Folks who work on their motors while in the water are earning the right to purchase new tools and motor parts.   :hoboy:

You have a trailer, use it.  Access on dry ground is much easier and when you drop tools and parts you can usually find them (unless you have a gravel floor in your shop like is going away in mine tomorrow   :party: )

StreamFixer

[Markshoreline]

 

[Markshoreline]

Rick,
If you want to see a nice pic of LiLi, just go to http://arimaboats.com/ and watch the pics that rotate through.

[RickG -VI]

Hey Mark

That is a nice photo....and a nice photo of the boat you sold me as well. 

I went to Sherwood today after work to check out the steering with the two nipples and connection rod on the cowlings idea.  The way they did it is that the location from the pivot point of the main to the nipple is a greater distance than the pivot point of the kicker to the nipple.  I see why they did that to get as close to a 90 degree angle between the engines and a good place to put the nipples on the cowlings. The nipple attachemnts look and feel quite solid with washers top and bottom.  My only concern is that the kicker reaches max left right before the main does.  This puts some pressure on the nipples.  Usually pressure on the nipples is fine..     But in this case, if someone reefs on the steering after the kicker reaches full left or right then something must give. This is the major downside to me.  Also, the bar must be removed when lifting either engine. This should be ok as with a tiller I have to be at the back of the boat to lift it anyway. If the main gets lifted with the bar attached that will be a problem.  But there are many upsides. The cost is low. I can put the solid tie bar on easily by just leaning over while standing at the back. The steering is quite light and smooth with both engines connected and get full left to right movement with no binding.  There will be two modes of using the kicker..... at the helm connected with the rod and using the trollmaster and from the rear just using just the tiller arm.

So that is the status at the moment. Will report back when I actually use the setup. 

Not sure when the boat will hit the water but I will report back on how it works after some use.

Cheers,
RickG 

[RickG -VI]

Hello Gents

First fishing report.  On Sunday went out and dropped a line for the first time.  Was fishing about 2 minutes and picked up a 20lb hatchery Chinooky. I didn't even have the net out so it was a bit of a gong show. I had asked Mark about a 3rd downrigger.  Maybe I don't even need 2.   :biggrin: 

Boat fishes really well, but not happy with the kicker steering. Connecting at the top causes the rod to really vibrate and make noise. So it works but is not the greatest. Going to try and rig something up from the front of the engines....will post back on results. If that doesn't work to my satisfaction then maybe Panther steerage as plan B and then hydraulic as plan C. 

The troll master is really nice and works well and I recommend.  Got the wired in one.  Can use the tiller handle independent if you want.

Cheers,
RickG - VI

[Markshoreline]

Not bad, Rick, but two minutes is a little longer than the LiLi was used to!   

If you go with a different steering system, what will you do with the holes in the cowlings?  I wonder why the placement allows the kicker to fully swing before the main?  That could make the boat hard to maneuver in tight situations...

[Tom Mac]

Sounds like I should have been fishing for salmon instead of halibut. Was that you at Coal Island?

[RickG -VI]

No I was straight out of Oak Bay...not quite on the flats yet.

Mark: The nipples would just have to stay there now....if they become redundant them maybe remove them an put a yamaha sticker on them. I'll probably leave them as a backup steerage once I decide on a better way.  I don't see every using the main while connected to the kicker....except to make a quick turn against the wind or tide or to avoid something.

Looking for a canvas top upgrade so I can have a sun shade but no front plastic window. (or maybe skip tower) The picture of Lili on the Arima web site shows the front plastic window folded out of the way....for the life of me can't figure out how Mark did that. I blame my lack of grey matter on my miss-spent youth I guess. 
 

[Markshoreline]

Rick you certainly have an eye for detail...  that top did have the zippered windshield but was not in nearly as good condition as the one now on the boat.  I would have taken the existing top in to a Canvas Guy and had the front plastic replaced and zippers added (as well as a little skirt to better seal the top of the windshield to reduce spray entering the cockpit.  But never got around to it- I blame my current misspent years on that.   :biggrin: