Topic: Eye Bolt Access

[AlAdams]

Thought I'd post these pictures.  I cut a 4 1/4" hole to access the nuts and bolts for the eye bolt.  Fortunately there was very little rust on the nuts, none on the bolts.  This after 25 years.  The reason I cut a 4 1/4" hole is that was the largest hole saw I could borrow.  The thing I'd like to point out is I should have cut the hole a little lower.  The bottom bolt is below the hole just a bit.  Not really an issue if I have to remove it down road for some reason - I can still get at the bolt etc.

[Diablo]

Did the same thing yesterday. I bought the 4 1/2" hole saw...ouch...about $35. I looked outside then estimated where the hole should be. Well, I to drilled too high. Way too high so I ended cutting out a tear drop shape to access the eye bolt. I will cover the hole with a piece of starboard. The plan was to replace the to small 3/8" eye bolt with a 1/2" eye so I need good access. I filled the bottom 3/8" hole with resin last night then drilled a larger 1/2" hole. I will post some photos when I get them in a computer.

By the way no rust at all and it looks like Arima coated the whole thing in silicone caulk and used 4 nuts. I didn't see any foam like AlAdams but I think I will add some.

[Diablo]

Before and after. Some clean up after the 5200 drys.

[Markshoreline]

Al,
Have you had problems with people smoking in your cuddy?  I just hate that!   


I cut my access hole high, but that was to mount an extended anchor roller.  Boy did that make the M bow eye a pain!!!  If I had to do the bow eye job again I'd extend the hole downward, too.

[AlAdams]

I thought twice about taking that picture with that idiot sign there. Was pretty sure I'd get a comment. The truth is I bought the boat from a guy who bought it new and only had it 6 months when his life changed such that he wouldn't be able to use it.  He put that sign there, I'm guessing he didn't want people to smoke on his boat but preferred to be passive aggressive about telling his passengers.   I just haven't yanked it off, guess I should. If it ruins the nice board I suppose I can just fashion a piece of starboard to take its place.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who drilled the hole too high.

I wasn't about to pay $35 for a tool I'm gonna use once. I was thinking one of those RotoZip tools would work too. That fiberglass etc is only 1/8" thick.  Although I did spend $20 for a 3" hole saw to make the hole in my dash the right size for the hydraulic steering hub.

My understanding is Arima supplied the extra foam as a floatation option back in the 80's.  :whistle:

[Markshoreline]

If you make the hole in the rough shape of an upside down A then you can cut a piece of starboard to cover it and it would look very good there, plus you would have access to the anchor locker and the u bolt.
That's what I've decided after thinking a bit more deeply on this topic!

[StreamFixer]

I found cutting the 4 1/2" hole with the center of that hole 7" below the anchor locker was just right.

The 4" deck plate needs a 4 1/2" hole.  The outside of the plate is 6".  I drilled a 4" hole, traced a 4 1/2" outline and ground difference with a 60 grit drill sander wheel.  Took about 5 minutes.  Besure to wear a mask and run the shop vac right next to the grinder to keep the dust out of your lungs, and all over the cuddy.  Seems to me Fiberglass dust would be a killer with electrical connections and electronics.

StreamFixer

[Wyrguy]

Seems to me Fiberglass dust would be a killer with electrical connections and electronics.

StreamFixer

Nope,  but it'll probably kill you waaaaay faster!!! :-(

Rick


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