Author Topic: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing  (Read 4410 times)

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Offline Secret Spot

Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« on: June 15, 2013, 04:24:16 PM »
I have attached some pictures of my Bait Tank and plumbing for anyone that might be interested.  I agree with legasea's (James) statement posted earlier "live bait= fish in socal (for the most part)".  I enjoy catching bait fish as opposed to jig or trolling fish (just my preference) and having a live bait system that successfully keeps a good quantity of bait alive and in good shape is essential.

One of the pictures show a access panel below the fill and drain hoses.  I added that access panel so I could reach in and prime the fuel line with ease. 

If I'm reading the restrictions right, I can only attach 4 pictures per post.  That being said, I'll add another post with additional pictures.

Larry - Secret Spot 

 
« Last Edit: June 15, 2013, 04:41:15 PM by Secret Spot »

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2013, 04:30:01 PM »
More pictures...


Offline legasea

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2013, 08:44:56 PM »
exactly what i needed buddy!!! :yeahthat: :applause: thank you

Offline legasea

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2013, 08:57:31 PM »
larry- what size screws for the floor?  any problems with them working out?

Offline Kahunanui

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2013, 05:57:40 AM »
Thank you good post, thanks for the pictures
Stay Pono,  Lawai'a        -        U.S.C.G. -  O.U.P.V.


2001 SC 15'11" 75 hp Honda re-carbed to 90 w/ 9.9 Honda boot. Hawaii is home, currently @ USMC Camp Lejeune NC

So.Cali

  • Guest
Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2013, 08:44:04 AM »
What size tank is that, Larry? (gallons) I might try and use a 30-40 gallon trash can for mine. Done on the cheap and easy!

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2013, 08:56:00 AM »
The Kodiak Bait Tanks are bracket ready -- they have 4 tapped stainless inserts located on the bottom of the tank for mounting the quick disconnect system.  The mounting kit in the link below includes the stainless steel fasteners for the L-Brackets to the tank and L-Bracket to the deck pads.  Each deck pad requires 2 large stainless steel flat head wood screws (not sure of the exact size) that are not included.  The length I used is approximately 3/4" - 1" long.  The 4 small anodized aluminum pads stay mounted to the deck.  I have not experienced issues with the pads coming loose.  I did apply M5200 in the drilled holes before screwing the pads in place.  The bait tank stays firmly in place empty or full.  Again, I chose the Kodiak Tank because it is easily installed and removed.  When on surf trips or just fishing plastics I remove the bait tank to accommodate more deck space.  On my tank the Kodiak PF-32 there are 2 drain levels.  One at 16 gallons and another at 32 gallons.  I intentionally place the drain hose hole through the rear transom panel at a height to make the lower drain level at approximately 22 gallons.  Simply put, I can run the tank at either 22 gallons or 32 gallons.

http://www.boatdepot.com/p-361/aquaworld-ac-3-and-ac-4-combo

Larry - Secret Spot

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2013, 09:17:20 AM »
So-Cali,

Keep your eyes open on ebay, craigslist or Bloodydecks.com as you will see used Kodiak and Aqua World bait tanks being sold at very low prices.  If you don't like the price you see, you can always make an offer as well. I picked mine up for $75 dollars from a seller on Bloodydecks.com.  He was asking $125 and accepted my offer.

Larry - Secret Spot
« Last Edit: June 16, 2013, 12:10:31 PM by Secret Spot »

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #8 on: June 16, 2013, 01:43:34 PM »
Also, Kodiak was asking more than I wanted to pay for their bait tank lid and net/utility holder, so I made my own lid out of a spare piece of starboard and made the net/utility holder from schedule 40 pvc and teak pieces in the garage.  I could have used starboard in place of the teak, but I thought I would re-introduce a little teak to the boat after replacing all the faux teak panels with starboard.

Larry - Secret Spot
« Last Edit: June 16, 2013, 05:21:21 PM by Secret Spot »

So.Cali

  • Guest
Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2013, 06:44:16 AM »
For the price you paidd, I would hold out for sure. The down side of bloody decks, is that tanks in that size range go quick.

Offline legasea

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #10 on: June 17, 2013, 08:39:07 AM »
i noticed that your overflow is set at 22 gallons.  any issues with the water having to go uphill to drain.

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #11 on: June 17, 2013, 09:41:16 AM »
The drain hose is large enough (much larger than the fill hose) that it drains freely and maintains the tank level at it's highest point.

This morning I saw a lot of bait tanks at decent prices on craigslist in So-Cal cities under boats and bait tank search. 

Offline Croaker Stroker

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #12 on: June 17, 2013, 09:52:08 AM »

Larry,

Where did you buy your hoses ?

CS
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"If a fish will, he will… if he won't, he won't… and that's about it… except… he may take this when he won't take that."

Offline legasea

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #13 on: June 17, 2013, 09:57:45 AM »
i think my tank is a 32g.  if i can keep it at 22g ill keep it.  i guess im just not understanding how the water goes down from the drain and back up to the motor well.  seems like it wouldnt be enough pressure to push it uphill.  i have my tank mounted to 2x6" plywood (vertically) so it naturally flows downhill.  i'm trying to figure out if i can mount mine like yours. it has both drain holes like yours. 

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #14 on: June 17, 2013, 02:35:28 PM »
Mark,

I bought the hoses at Home Depot in Signal Hill.

James,

Connect your drain hose to the lower drain hole on the bait tank and put the plug in the upper drain hole.  Hold the end of the drain hose higher than the top of the tank and fill the tank with water.  Lower the end of the drain hose to a level mid point between the upper and lower drain holes on the tank and you will see the tank level drop/drain to the same level that you are holding the end of the hose.  You can even keep the water on, filling the tank and it will drain continuously, simulating how it will work on the ocean.  I don't have another way to explain the hydrodynamics and gravity involved -- I'm just an airline guy...    :anyone:

Larry - Secret Spot

« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 03:09:30 PM by Secret Spot »

Offline legasea

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #15 on: June 17, 2013, 04:27:04 PM »
haha..... thanks for the explanation.   ill figure it out from the pictures.  ive got the intake line figured out. i'm looking at your blue drain line (larger diameter hose) pointing down to the floor and coming back up to the motor well access hole. 

i understand gravity and water pressure (i'm a firefighter) im just shocked that the water leaving your tank is traveling south to go north. 

It works for you so all I can do is try it out on mine.  THanks for posting this thread and walking me through it. It is a big help!!! :clap: 

btw-  love how clean your transom wall is. very nice and organized

Offline Secret Spot

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #16 on: June 17, 2013, 05:27:29 PM »
I'm a little OCD when it comes to cluttered motor wells.  When I was at the Yamaha dealer having my Yamaha F90 installed and rigged, I noticed that Yamaha offered an  optional flexible rigging tube that accommodates everything going to the motor except the steering cable.  Having all that stuff including the fuel line consolidated in the rigging tube really cleans up and organizes the motor well.

Larry - Secret Spot
« Last Edit: June 17, 2013, 07:51:25 PM by Secret Spot »

Offline GregE

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #17 on: June 22, 2013, 10:54:31 AM »
Oh my.  Nicely done!!!   :applause:

Bandaid keeps telling me it's cheaper to go on charters than keep on upgrading for tuna..... but  :wink:

This Osprey also has an outboard bracket and 1" Starboard flush 'engine hatch'.  I plan to put mine a little more forward so the load is shared by the deck and bracking under the hatch.  Since i use the empty engine space for storage, i'll need to added another hinge aft of the tank. 

Defiance has the Big Salt 42 gal model but it will cost about $1600 installed-  can't see that happening.

Greg
Osprey 26 LC Kodak;  Arima SR 19 HT; SL 22 Honda 225
http://www.sagecreekforums.com/phpforum/index.php
Sold:  Arima SE 16 WeeBait; SH 15 WeeBoat;
SR 21 NoBait;  SL 22 ReBait

Offline Kimbrey

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #18 on: June 22, 2013, 11:27:42 AM »
Here's how the Kodiak Tank mounts on my boat.

Now the plumbing is a different matter.  When Three Rivers Marine sent me a picture of their plumbing installation I damn near choked but kept my mouth close with a wait and see attitude.

This picture just shows the hoses going into a deck hatch hole in the deck (WHAT???).  When I quizzed them on it they installed a "boot" that doesn't attach to the deck ring of the hatch hole and thought it was great (WHAT???...Colorful fishing language inserted here).  I'm so upset I can hardly see straight but thought I'd figure a different method on my own.  Then after trying to get a couple of parts to finish the electronic install that they didn't complete I finally popped a gasket after trying for a month to get them.  I also didn't like the fact the water would drain on top of the fuel tank (WHAT???).  They want me to leave the boat with them when I head back to Alaska in a week or so to come up with something better.  At least they are trying to make it right and want me to be happy.

They also tried the wash down inlet to tap the water supply for the tank.  It's too small.  It takes 13 minutes to fill the tank.  At the max it is supposed to be 8 minutes.  The tank doesn't drain fast enough either so it overflows.

About the only good thing of this install is the placement.  Just aft of the fish hold but far enough forward to walk behind it.

We will see.
2005 Sea Legend --Sold--replaced with 26' Duckworth

Offline Croaker Stroker

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #19 on: June 22, 2013, 11:37:44 AM »
I'm a little OCD when it comes to cluttered motor wells.  When I was at the Yamaha dealer having my Yamaha F90 installed and rigged, I noticed that Yamaha offered an  optional flexible rigging tube that accommodates everything going to the motor except the steering cable.  Having all that stuff including the fuel line consolidated in the rigging tube really cleans up and organizes the motor well.

Larry - Secret Spot

Also keeps the sun from rotting the rubber hoses and insulation.  (They ought to make a canvas cover for the squeeze bulb too)
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"If a fish will, he will… if he won't, he won't… and that's about it… except… he may take this when he won't take that."

Offline GregE

Re: Secret Spot's Bait Tank and Plumbing
« Reply #20 on: June 22, 2013, 01:34:02 PM »
Kodiak is no longer carried by West Marine- LIve Bait Larry is sold out (Larry died),  Boat Depot wants $116 shipping....  Is Kodiak still making them?
« Last Edit: June 22, 2013, 02:10:20 PM by ReBait »
Greg
Osprey 26 LC Kodak;  Arima SR 19 HT; SL 22 Honda 225
http://www.sagecreekforums.com/phpforum/index.php
Sold:  Arima SE 16 WeeBait; SH 15 WeeBoat;
SR 21 NoBait;  SL 22 ReBait