Author Topic: Transom mount transducer using Starboard  (Read 1054 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline AlAdams

Transom mount transducer using Starboard
« on: June 12, 2013, 11:59:57 AM »
OK - so I've searched this site several times on the correct way to do this and this is the info I think I've got.

Attaching the Starboard to the transom:

*Pre-drill thru the gel coat and fiberglass (reverse the drill going thru these materials to prevent cracking). 
*Use a drill bit one size larger than the screw going through the gel coat and fiberglass.  Once through these materials, reduce the size of the bit when going thru the wood.
*Pre-Drill the Starboard (don't think this has been mentioned or I haven't seen it).  Do not countersink the screws.  I'm not sure if the pre-drill in the starboard is smaller than the screw or larger
or ?
*Use a little 5200 (or 4200) on the threads and screw head only when attaching the starboard.  If using 5200, don't tighten the screws all the way - let the 5200 cure for 24 hours then snug down the screws the rest of the way.
*Use #8 x 1" pan head screws, #316 stainless.  Use truss head screws if available - SMS threads or "beefy" threads.

Attaching the transducer to the Starboard:

*Pre-drill holes (smaller or ?)
*Apply a little 4200 to threads and head of screw(?)

Sound about right?  Anything I'm missing?  Thanks!

Al
You can't trust water, even a straight stick will turn crooked in it - WC Fields

'88 SR w/Skip Tower  '02 Honda 90,'02 Honda 15
Electrical by R. Wyrguy.

Online Danno

Re: Transom mount transducer using Starboard
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2013, 01:00:18 PM »


Attaching the Starboard to the transom:

*Pre-drill thru the gel coat and fiberglass (reverse the drill going thru these materials to prevent cracking).  Reverse drill to go through the gel coat. Once through the gel coat, then drill forward.

*Use a drill bit one size larger than the screw going through the gel coat and fiberglass.  Once through these materials, reduce the size of the bit when going thru the wood. Sounds about right.

*Pre-Drill the Starboard (don't think this has been mentioned or I haven't seen it).  Do not countersink the screws.  I'm not sure if the pre-drill in the starboard is smaller than the screw or larger or?  Pre-drill the Starboard just big enough to slide the screw through. Personally, I'd use the flat head screws with washers. Anything you can do to increase the surface are, the better.

*Use a little 5200 (or 4200) on the threads and screw head only when attaching the starboard.  If using 5200, don't tighten the screws all the way - let the 5200 cure for 24 hours then snug down the screws the rest of the way.  Agree. I would also apply a bead of 5200 under the Starboard around the perimeter to seal it against the hull.

*Use #8 x 1" pan head screws, #316 stainless.  Use truss head screws if available - SMS threads or "beefy" threads.

Attaching the transducer to the Starboard:

*Pre-drill holes (smaller or ?)  Smaller. The Starboard will give a lot. The hole should be slightly smaller than the shank of the screw (below the screw flights)

*Apply a little 4200 to threads and head of screw(?)  Yes
Previously owned a 1998 19' SR

Lures are designed to catch fishermen not fish.

Offline AlAdams

Re: Transom mount transducer using Starboard
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2013, 01:42:56 PM »
Thanks Danno!  The other thing I thought of has to do with the 5200.  I have a tube of the fast curing (?) 5200.  With that, is it still recommended to let it sit for 24 hours before snugging up the screw? 
You can't trust water, even a straight stick will turn crooked in it - WC Fields

'88 SR w/Skip Tower  '02 Honda 90,'02 Honda 15
Electrical by R. Wyrguy.

Offline woody

Re: Transom mount transducer using Starboard
« Reply #3 on: June 12, 2013, 03:12:17 PM »
Yes. Use the fast curing (red). I like it sitting x24 hours.  Try to think of all the jobs you can do with the 5200 because once opened it has a short shelf life.

5200 (Fast - red) for basically anything under water or pointing down.  4200 for all else.  It's an adhesive (especially to fiberglass/gel) and the 5200 is to be considered permanent and will pull off a layer of fiberglass if you have to remove it. 4200 will do a good job even in wet situations if it's going to have to be removed.Rregular (slow, the blue) curing will take over 30 days to bond/adhere/water proof.

4000, another 3M product, use if one of your contacts is a metal (bronze, etc).

Woody

Offline Kahunanui

Re: Transom mount transducer using Starboard
« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2013, 02:23:31 AM »
alternative for consideration


http://www.sternmate.com/


Stay Pono,  Lawai'a        -        U.S.C.G. -  O.U.P.V.


2001 SC 15'11" 75 hp Honda re-carbed to 90 w/ 9.9 Honda boot. Hawaii is home, currently @ USMC Camp Lejeune NC