Look under your Rub Rail !

[croaker stroker]

This is something Belinda warned us about before.

The rub rail is sealed on the under side with silicone. If this seal leaks, when you hit a wave, the water is forced in. If water gets in under the rub rail, it goes between the inner and outer hull.

Look carefully under the bow at your seal. It's just a small crack where the silicone has seperated from the rubrail. It was hard for me to see. My neck doesn't crank around backwards so good.

I used a small piece of wood, cut at an angle like a chisel to remove the old silicone. I sanded the edges slightly before applying the new sealer.

[CanvasGuy]

Croaker..doesn't it drain into the bilge?.. and go out when opened or pumped?..or are we all slowly sinking?... sometimes it feels like it.. :biggrin:

yeah I had a ton come in in real foul weather.. actually a Gail I crossed the straights to fish for Halibut in Canada..big no no.. but had a buddy boat that we followed..
by the time i got in I had water in my inner lower side trays..
I never resealed mine..and now don't go out in Gails and have Smart rails that knocks most back down.before it can get in..

[Old No7]

Thanks for the reminder about this Croaker.  I sealed mine this summer, even though it "looked OK" in most spots...

With the black rub rail and dark navy hull on mine, I have to admit that I gooped the new black silicone on with a fairly heavy bead -- before, it was done with clear, which almost looked silver/white against the dark hull -- I smoothed it out well and it's not even noticeable.  But it's sealed.

Stay dry!

Old No7

[woody]

Stay dry!

With a moniker like "Old No 7", that sounds odd.

Woody

[Threeweight]

Among other functions, the rub rail protects the seam between the Arima's "bottom half" (the hull, foam flotation, and liner) and the "top half" of the boat.  My understanding is that it is possible for water to get into the foam in between the hull and the liner through that seam.

I did mine last year.  GIANT pain in the butt to do in the winter. 

[Salmon King]

Aww....and here I was planning one of my Winter time projects!  ...in between trips for Blackmouth that is :biggrin:

[PugetScott]

I know this is an old thread; apologies... But it seemed like as good of a place as any.



My rubrail is currently off.  Should I be filling that entire gap between the upper and lower parts of the boat?

[Yachter Yat]

   If you do any resealing, don't use silicone.  I would suggest BoatLife's  Lifeseal.  Expensive?.......Yes, but way better.  Don't forget to use painter's tape to get a good line.  I've said it before, but I'll say it again.....if I ever buy another new Arima, I'd send a case of this stuff to the factory to be used on my boat. 

Yat

[croaker stroker]

My rubrail is currently off.  Should I be filling that entire gap between the upper and lower parts of the boat?

I would re-seal it the way it was originally done. Could you see how it was done when you removed it ?  If not.....ask Belinda.  :biggrin:


I think Arima uses silicone so it can be removed and re-sealed.

Polyurethane sealers are way more difficult to remove.

[PugetScott]

The silicone was here and there; but not consistent (just years of wear, I'm sure.)

That's why I was curious if it was more about sealing the rubrail to the boat - or specifically sealing the gap first, then seal the rail to the boat.

[croaker stroker]

I think Taco Marine has a video on rubrail installation? You could also call them and ask what they recommend.

[croaker stroker]

...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=GnQG7eUyHxU

[Markshoreline]

Puget Scott I used Boat Life Seal which is like silicone.  I did filled the joint and sealed the rubrail with the same material.  Never another leak!

[Yachter Yat]

   Lifeseal is a blend of silicone and polyurethane.  I call it "high-powered silicone".  That stuff will stay-put long after straight silicone is peeling-off.  As I stated earlier; the only downside is the cost. 

Yat

[PugetScott]

Thanks all!  I'll be tackling this and reinstalling my rubrail this weekend. 

[Threeweight]

Polyurethane sealers are way more difficult to remove.

The opposite is true.  Silicone has to be completely stripped off, including ALL the greasy residue it leaves behind.  Nothing will stick to cured silicone, not even other silicone.  Nothing really dissolves it, though mineral spirits or a heat gun will soften it (heat gun will also damage gel coat if you are not careful). 

I just resealed a Pastime truck camper that a previous owner decided to use silicone on... UV turned it brown, and in most places the bond was tenacious... except those places where it had pulled away and had goo growing under it.  Many many hours of work to get it off  :nono:

Polyurethane sealants come in different strengths... there is 3m 5200 is is monstrously strong, 3m 4200 that is just extremely strong, then 4000 which is akin to silicone in strength, but UV resistant and won't yellow.  If you clean polyurethane well, you can put a bead of fresh sealant down over old stuff, and it will stick.  On this camper, I used Dicor's polyurethane products... the self lap stuff for the roof suggests putting fresh down over the old as long as no deep cracks are present.

I'd use 3m 4000 or the equivalent UV stable Sikaflex or Lifecaulk product on a rub rail if I had to do it again on an Arima.

[Yachter Yat]

   I wouldn't use Lifecaulk.  See here...........https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=665

Yat

[PugetScott]

   I wouldn't use Lifecaulk.  See here...........https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=665

Yat

Deck To Hull and Fiberglass to Metal are both rated as Excellent...  Not sure I follow you.

[gfakkema]

   I wouldn't use Lifecaulk.  See here...........https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=665

Yat

Deck To Hull and Fiberglass to Metal are both rated as Excellent...  Not sure I follow you.

Go a bit further down the table and it shows that "Lifecalk" is only GOOD. "Lifeseal" on the other hand shows excellent for rub rails...

[Threeweight]

Lifeseal = silicone/polyurethane hybrid that is very flexible.  Since rub rails move (from dock rash, vibration, hull flexing, etc...) this is an advantage.  Works well, but if it ever has to be removed it has all the same disadvantages of silicone.

Lifecaulk = polyurethane.  Not as flexible, but can be re-applied over itself.  If it ever has to be removed, you don't have to deal with the tenacious oily residue silicone leaves behind (you can even paint it).  It will also cure underwater, and is a little nice for emergency repairs.  Lifecaulk is comparable to 3m 4200.

I prefer 3m products.  Since the rub rail is above the waterline, sees a lot of sun, and may need to be removed and serviced again, I would use 3m 4000 (polyurethane, strong but not tenacious bond, and very UV resistant.)

[oldbhtrnewequip]

look familiar?

https://smile.amazon.com/Taco-Supply-V124144BKA501-INSERT-FLEXIBLE/dp/B002IV6CH4/ref=pd_lutyp_crtyp_simh_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002IV6CH4&pd_rd_r=f8d37a82-6a1a-487c-9f78-d74a77f596eb&pd_rd_w=UxCJ5&pd_rd_wg=TXbUI&pf_rd_i=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=28d8c24d-21a7-47c7-ae15-5057aa4d7822&pf_rd_r=5AGBM5S2KZ7A76SYVV8Y&pf_rd_s=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5AGBM5S2KZ7A76SYVV8Y

https://smile.amazon.com/Taco-Supply-V124144BKA501-INSERT-FLEXIBLE/dp/B002IV6CH4/ref=pd_lutyp_crtyp_simh_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002IV6CH4&pd_rd_r=f8d37a82-6a1a-487c-9f78-d74a77f596eb&pd_rd_w=UxCJ5&pd_rd_wg=TXbUI&pf_rd_i=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=28d8c24d-21a7-47c7-ae15-5057aa4d7822&pf_rd_r=5AGBM5S2KZ7A76SYVV8Y&pf_rd_s=desktop-typ-carousels&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=5AGBM5S2KZ7A76SYVV8Y