Welcome to the largest gathering of ARIMA boat owners anywhere. We are a forum based gathering of Arima Boat enthusiasts that like to pleasure cruise, fish, camp, and hunt. While Arimas are centered in the PNW, we have members across the globe. It is 3/4's water after all. Lurk, join up, and post about your Arima upgrades, family trips, and of course, your fishing exploits. Just remember to add photos whenever possible.

Main Menu

How concerned should I be about this?

Started by ohmytodd, September 26, 2023, 06:22:27 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.


I just noticed this cracked winch post support on my trailer when I went out to get ready to fish tomorrow. I don't know when it happened but I suspect on the way back from the coast a couple weeks ago (I've been out locally a few times since).

Should I tie an extra strap from the trailer to the bow eye, or don't move it 'til it's fixed/replaced?

What say those of you not itching to fish tomorrow??

1997 Sea Ranger 19 Skip Top Hey Nineteen, 2021 Suzuki DF140, 2019 Suzuki DF9.9

amazing grace

Looks serious enough to get it fixed prior to taking it very far. But I know you know this already J. :mememe:
1989 22' C-Dory Angler

1997 19' Sea Ranger hardtop with Alaskan bulkhead


Yeah, calling my local trailer guy first thing about a weld and already found the replacement post online, but shipping is 10 days. I'm guessing my trailer guy will put me off at least a few days. I'll call a welder too, for backup.

The chinook and coho are running thick 17 miles away, but it's up the freeway to the ramp.  :shrug9:
1997 Sea Ranger 19 Skip Top Hey Nineteen, 2021 Suzuki DF140, 2019 Suzuki DF9.9


Theoretically, you might be able to add a ratchet strap (with enough sheer strength) to secure it... I just don't know if you can add it and keep it in place with no movement to prevent slipping. Any movement would allow the bow to jog up and down and the boat to slip rearward.

Personally, I wouldn't chance it until the weld is repaired. Knowing the issue exists, and hauling the boat anywhere with a strap sets you up for some severe civil liability if the worst happened. Hard to remove a strap after an accident... without being noticed or feeling right about it.

Just my $.02

Tom C

The winch post should be replaced. I'm concerned about how it happened. That takes a tremendous amount of force.

Tom C

Exactly what model / year trailer is that?


The most obvious cause of the damage is the boat was not pulled all the way up tight against the bow roller.
While trailering,  the boat was bouncing up and down eventually causing the break on the winch post..

How long and bumpy is your trip from the coast?


1990 SR Skip Top  "Gypsea Soul"
2013 Etec 115H.O.


Quote from: Tom C on September 26, 2023, 07:30:49 PMExactly what model / year trailer is that?

2019 Tuff Trailer.

Re: force, the Tillamook Highway has a few patches that are just terrible. That's my best guess as to where it happened.
1997 Sea Ranger 19 Skip Top Hey Nineteen, 2021 Suzuki DF140, 2019 Suzuki DF9.9


Not sure I'd bother with welding it.  Looks like there's rust along the broken edges and possible hidden stress cracks.  I think the better option would be to order the new post and swap it out.

As for tomorrow...  drill a hole straight through the tube and the upright support. Run a long bolt (or ready rod) through all of it with some decent fender washers on both sides, crank it down and go fishing.  Is it the best fix, no.  Will it work for a trip, I don't see why not.  Maybe drop another strap from the bow down to the frame as an added measure.
1990 19 Sea Ranger
1989 Mercury 150
1990 Mercury 15
2001 EZ Loader tandem axle

croaker stroker

Agree with Martin. There's a reason why this happened.

I run a lever strap from the bow eye straight down to the trailer frame to prevent bouncing.

Another reason for bouncing may be not enough tongue weight.
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸


A welder could fix that and add a support brace to strengthen it. Then spray it with some cold galvanizing
Be stronger than a new one that might do the same thing.

Tom C

The cost of a new winch post is modest, = or < the cost to repair, though I agree, it could be repaired.

Yachter Yat

   Todd:  I'd go for the new post. I'd be reticent about paying for labor when you could put that money into a new part. Depending on the success of the repair, the new post would look.......well....."NEW".  :jester:
   Meantime, since you're only trailering 17 miles to the water, I think attaching a good strong ratcheting strap around the upper side of that post, down to the tongue, would serve to keep things in place. Just go easy, keep an eye on it, and perhaps stop before getting too far down the road to check on it.   

People have molded fiberglass into thousands of shapes for boats, unfortunately, none of which I've been able to truly fall head over heels in love with.   
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)


If you lived close, I have a welder friend who would probably take that on as a walk in and have you back on the road within an hour.  And, he has over 40 years experience, a full shop and is an expert. Bonus: He likes to listen to Pink Floyd while working.
"Forgiveness is between them and God. My job is to arrange the meeting."

First Sergeant
U.S. Army (retired) :flag:


Update: I just took the boat and trailer over to my local guy, Mike's Trailer Repair. I have the post strapped down with 2 rachet straps that closed the gap on the break and also added a strap to the bow eye and trailer, so it's not going anywhere. Mike's guys gave the green light on the current config and said tight lines, so I'm going fishing (multi tasking really, taking zoom calls from the boat. Don't tell my boss). I'll drop the boat off on the way home and they'll weld it tomorrow morning for $100. I've also got a BoatBuckle bow rachet coming from amazon tomorrow. No more bouncing.

I've noticed that sometimes on long tows my stern straps get a little slack in them from the boat moving around on the bunks, so the whole thing is a little loose on the trailer when I get home. I'm hoping the bow strap takes care of that, but I'll also make note to pull over and check it hourly or so. That Tillamook highway has a rough stretch that's so bad you regularly see trailers catch some air.

Weld vs. replace: I called Tuff Trailer and of course, it's a "custom" post that they use on all of their aluminum I beam trailers that have much heavier duty bases than standard posts (not sure if I believe them, but it is a beefy base). My post is the same one they use on their largest trailers and  they're $253 + shipping from Washington. I'll live with the $100 weld for now and keep an eye on it. If there's any sign of stress I'll pull the plug and order a brand new post and just wait for it once the fishing slows down.
1997 Sea Ranger 19 Skip Top Hey Nineteen, 2021 Suzuki DF140, 2019 Suzuki DF9.9


  Not really the best design on that post/support.   Having a fairly thick solid bar welded to one face of a square tube with much thinner walls than the thickness of the bar isn't best practice.  All of the motion of the boat trying to move on the trailer - up/down, fore/aft, side to side, and vibration - is concentrated on the winch stand.  Every other connection is from tie-downs, which will stretch and allow movement.
   Constant movement will stress load rigid joints.  Especially with aluminum, welding will harden the metal around the joint, making it more brittle.  On yours, the bar and weld didn't fail, the wall of the square tube did ...weakest link.  If you replace the assembly - and - make sure the boat can't move much, great.  If you decide to weld, get the weldor to add some triangular supports between the bar and tube to spread the load over a wider area, maybe onto the sides of the tube.
  With a steel trailer, hasn't been an issue for me, but a couple of things have kept the boat in place better:  Vertical tiedown strap, large deep bow roller, and changing to a winch with 3" drum and 3" HD tie down strap, which doesn't stretch much at all.  Also made a cover to keep everything out of the weather.

       attach id=338768]winch5.JPG[/attach]winch1.JPGwinch3.JPG                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
1996 SR19 Hdtp. - 2018 Honda  BF115D
2009 Duroboat 16 CC, Honda BF50  -  SOLD
and 19 other boats (I think, lost count)


And let's not forget the handyman's secret weapon....Duct Tape.  (Gotta love Red Green)
1981 Sea Hunter (Oldest Arima on the forum??)
'22 Merc 60hp, '21 Merc 9.9 Kicker
1996 Lund WC12 (A tin can that wants to be an Arima)

Salmon Hobo

I still think I would lean toward replacing the post. Also I am sure the trailer shop is aware but welding Galvanized material can be very dangerous or deadly due to fumes hopefully outdoors or respirator ideally.


Change of plans after not making the shop's closing time last night and sleeping on it. Ordering the new post today.
1997 Sea Ranger 19 Skip Top Hey Nineteen, 2021 Suzuki DF140, 2019 Suzuki DF9.9

Tom C

The Rockwell 42-20158-0 winch post would work well, and costs $91 from Eastern Marine.


Quote from: Tom C on September 28, 2023, 08:07:18 AMThe Rockwell 42-20158-0 winch post would work well, and costs $91 from Eastern Marine.

Thanks Tom. Looks like that one is a 2x4 post, I need a 3x3 for my winch assembly. I did find this one and it's also available for a few more bucks on Amazon for quicker shipping...
1997 Sea Ranger 19 Skip Top Hey Nineteen, 2021 Suzuki DF140, 2019 Suzuki DF9.9

Tom C

3x3? The photo is deceptive. I think I have a couple 3x3 posts in my shop here in Seattle.

The Sturdy Built post looks good, though I hate that they angled the top of the post preventing a vinyl cap from fitting it.


Do you power load?  I know the crack is on the opposite side but still hitting the roller fairly hard with a power load could cause a fair amount of flex/stress to the post.
2005 Sea Legend --Sold--replaced with 26' Duckworth—Sold—replaced with 28' Farallon Walkaround


   Aren't the Tuff Trailers aluminum??   Welding galvanized metal makes bad fumes, but TIG on aluminum is fairly benign. 
   Maybe OK, but I'm not sure how smart it would be to bolt an aftermarket galvanized steel winch post onto an aluminum-frame trailer.  You could go for broke by adding stainless u-bolts and hardware, and see which of the 3 metals degrades first..... :facepalm: 
1996 SR19 Hdtp. - 2018 Honda  BF115D
2009 Duroboat 16 CC, Honda BF50  -  SOLD
and 19 other boats (I think, lost count)

Tom C

Aluminum trailers, including Tuff Trailers, typically use a galvanized steel tongue and a galvanized winch post.