Bait tank fixin suggestions? FIXED

[AJFishin]

I have a second bait tank, a Kodiak 22 gallon, that I want to give a try, but the back panel where the drain hole grate is, has disintegrated.  Basically I need something to block my bait so they don't escape through the the drain, but also allow water to be able to flow freely and get rid of fish scales.

So far this is what I'm thinking, but I'm open to suggestions.
I can make a new panel out of 1/8" ABS plastic and remove the original 6 plastic screws from the tank, then to hold it in place, replace those 6 plastic screws with stainless steel screws and nuts to hold that panel on the wall of the tank, more on this part in a second. 
The first option I'm thinking of, probably the easier way to do this, is to cut a small hole in the ABS and use the bait tank kit outflow piece I have, but remove the screen and it's holder and screw it in place.
Another option I thought of, I could kind of copy the original plates design to the best of my knowledge, but the only thing I lack is a good way to cut the grate over the opening for the outflow and for the slits on the cover plate.

* Now regarding the new SS screws holding the new ABS plate in place, the bigger issue in my head.
I'm concerned water is going to be leaking out through those 6 screws, so I'm waiting to seal those 6 holes where the screws will come into the tank with something, so water does not leak out.  I was thinking to use small rubber washers behind the screws on the outside to keep it water tight, but not 100% sure this will work and last over time, rubber degrading.
But I'm more curious if sealant would work? If I put sealant on the screws and then put a gob of sealant over the screw heads and around the screw heads?

I called Chemtainer, the makers of the Kodiak tank, and asked what will be the best option to seal those holes, since I've seen products such as 5200 and possibly Boatlife are not going to work on poly tanks. The reply I got from the rep was, it's perfectly fine to use 5200 or any marine grade sealant, it will work for what I need to be done.

So before I move forward, I wanted to see what your thoughts of what the rep said and if you have better suggestions for a fix?













I wish the entire outflow piece would screw in, but it can't from inside the tank.

[Danno]

Here's a couple of fittings you might try

[AJFishin]

Thank you for the suggestions Dan, but the one issue I should clarify is the thread portion of where these would screw into. The threads only go about 3/4 of the way in before it's a smooth surface and slightly raised higher than the threads.

EDIT: Just looking at your picture of the "1.5 Inch MPT Threaded Low Profile PVC Strainer for Rain Barrels, Aquariums, Irrigation" I think I see what you might be suggesting. Cutting a hole in the ABS and inserting that piece in the hole, securing it with the nut, that might work I think.
Then I could add the standard drain fitting on the back that screws in.


Also what are your thoughts on using sealant in the holes to help seal the holes while the screws are in? Will the sealant dry and create a sealed hole so no water will leak out?

[Danno]

The tank is likely rotomolded polyethylene which does not adhere well to sealants but the sealant's ability to fill gaps should prove to be enough to prevent leaks. 5200/4200 doesn't bond any better to polyethylene as seen with the drain tube and bilge plug R&R's that have been posted. I'd just go with silicone if you don't use the threaded pipe option.

[AJFishin]

The tank is likely rotomolded polyethylene which does not adhere well to sealants but the sealant's ability to fill gaps should prove to be enough to prevent leaks. 5200/4200 doesn't bond any better to polyethylene as seen with the drain tube and bilge plug R&R's that have been posted. I'd just go with silicone if you don't use the threaded pipe option.

Thank you Dan for your expertise! I will make a HD run to pick up some silicone.

As for my first issue, the strainer, your threaded pipe gave me an idea that I think will work. I also think I was so focused on making something complicated, I didn't think of something as basic as drilling a bunch of holes in the ABS plastic plate where the main strainer would be and jigsaw, or use something else, to cut some lines in the plate.

But I would like to be able to just have a part that would fit right in the hole that I could screw on, but not having the threads go all the way through that piece, kind of puts a damper on something that could be a simple replace and fix. 

[Danno]

...
But I would like to be able to just have a part that would fit right in the hole that I could screw on, but not having the threads go all the way through that piece, kind of puts a damper on something that could be a simple replace and fix. 

A lot depends on what type of thread that is. If it's NPT then you might be able to use it as long as the female side does bottom out. If it's a straight thread, you'd likely have problems finding a female piece that would have the same thread.

[AJFishin]

...
But I would like to be able to just have a part that would fit right in the hole that I could screw on, but not having the threads go all the way through that piece, kind of puts a damper on something that could be a simple replace and fix. 

A lot depends on what type of thread that is. If it's NPT then you might be able to use it as long as the female side does bottom out. If it's a straight thread, you'd likely have problems finding a female piece that would have the same thread.

I might have to bring my tank with me to HD to see if I can find something to fit in it to thread it, as bringing just the drain piece my be difficult to find the right pipe? 
I believe it's a straight pipe by the looks of it.

[martin3]

Jeremy,


I re-built a Kodiak 22 awhile ago just like you are doing.
I made my strainer from a 2 pieces of scrap starboard I had.
The ABS plate you built will work perfectly.
Use 5200 and small SS bolts and washers. (instead of screws)
Rough it up with sandpaper before you put it together. 
It will seal up just fine.

Why are you trying to build the secondary filter inside of the strain cover?
They were not built that way from the factory.
The water simply flows thru the slits and overflows the 1.5" drain.
Don't bother with the extra strainer.
It's not needed.

[AJFishin]

Thank you for tips Martin and yes bolts that's what I meaning to say.
I think the way I wrote it sounds like I'm adding 2 strainers, 1 on the plate and 1 on the wall. But actually I was just trying to figure out the best way to rebuild it, "talking" out loud, which I talked myself down a rabbit hole of WTF'ness and confused myself and everyone else that fell down the hole lol. Crazy week got my brain fried.🤯

I've decided to go with the original idea of making the 1 plate, drilling holes instead of slits to make the strainer at the top and then probably use my jigsaw or carefully use my chopsaw on to the ABS to make a few slits, securing the plate with bolts, using your idea of how to clean and then apply the sealant for the bolts.
Something like this:



I did like the idea of adding threads to the piece that allows the drain tube to screw into the tank because I could add the bait tank tube I have with the attached strainer (pictured below), right in to tank and call it good.
But I started thinking I might do more damage using a pipe to try to make threads and I might spin that piece off, so I decided not to that.

[AJFishin]

...

[GregE]

AJ, I have that same 22 Kodiak tank. The rod/ tool holder is from Kodiak also- screw mounted

 I'll look at it tomorrow- maybe see something useful

[croaker stroker]

Here is the way the Bluewater fiberglass tank is made. The water comes in through the holes and out through the slits. 

[AJFishin]

Went to work on fixing my bait tank, got everything I needed from Home Depot and Harbor Freight, the ABS I already had (Amazon) from previous projects.


I cut my piece 20" long and I was planning to leave a 1" gap at the bottom where the drain is to help allow the tank to drain faster, in theory I have no idea if this will be any difference if I left a 1/2" or 1/4" gap at the bottom.
Hardware I used was #10-24 nylocks and #10-24x1" bolts (screws)

I bought a 4" blade to go on my angle grinder from HF for about $9, compared to HD was $30


I sanded and wiped down the tanks inside/outside surface to get the factory sealant off and to ruff up the tanks surface for the new sealant to be applied.



Using a punch, I punched out the old plastic "screws".



Then put my ABS panel up and flush against the top of the tank, using a sharpie I marked where my first 2 top holes will be and then drilled them out. Then I put in a couple of the new screws in the top of tank so I can drill the next holes in the panel.





I measured about 5" areas where I will be using the blade to cut slits into the ABS and each slit is about 1-1/4" apart. I was going to just drill holes for the strainer, but used the blade to do the job, not the best, but as long as it works, I'm good with it.



Then I applied my sealant, Loctite, similar to 3M 4200, in and around the 6 holes. Then I put the 2 low screws in the bottom holes, here the panel does not go low enough to attach the panel, so I went ahead and sealed those up.
I actually applied more sealant after I took this picture......


Next I put the middle screws in the panel and carefully pushed the screws through the holes to the backside and placed nylocks on and then repeated on the top. Once all in place, I tightened everything down nice and sung.
After everything was tight, I applied a bunch of sealant around and over the nuts to make sure there is no leaks, very ugly looking, but I'm ok with it as long as there are no leaks.


Came out ok considering my cuts were done by free hand lol. I think it will work and once everything is all dry, I will give the tank a good scrubbing and a full water in the tank test run.


Next step: I placed the tank on the deck of my boat like I have my previous tank, but now having a longer deck, I'm thinking of centering this tank if I choose to keep this one over my other one, which my other one is actually a little bigger. It doesn't bother me walking around the tank, but I've read all of the comments on why other members like having their tanks more towards the center, so I might move it

[GregE]

Looks like it will work-  you could make the drain strainer cuts wider- anchovies are blocky

My SL 22 has the sump and water intake shut off valve, pumps,,,,,behind the center panel and I need access.  I built a platform to raise the drain hose.