EZ loader trailer

[Tailout]

So the port side trailer light on my EZ-Loader trailer has on turn, or brake light. The running light works. This trailer is a year old and well maintained. I got down under there and couldn't find any obvious way to access the bulb, what I did see was a little clear clover on the bottom of the lens housing with maybe a LED board hard to tell. I didn't want to ply on it too much until I can get some advise....Help     

[Tailout]

has "NO" turn or brake light. How do you replace the lamp/blub/LED whatever makes light in these new style boat trailer receptacles??? Little clear "cover" not clover.   

[salmonchaser]

This very well might not be your issue. Also, I'm sorry I don't have an answer in regards to the EZ Loaders.

Anyway, I was having issues with my lights on my 3 month old trailer. Found out somehow I got a bit of salt water into the flat 5 receptacle. I hit it with a soft wire brush and polished the connectors up. It was a similar situation as yours some lights worked others didn't. Good luck.

[E-TEC Pacer]

Port side light with clear piece on the bottom. Clear piece is for illuminating license plate I would guess. Maybe check your ground wire and make sure it's got a good connection.

[AJFishin]

 
That was issue on my trailer a few months back. The ground is connected to the trailer back there on the portside. I had the same issues, but I cleaned it with a wire brush and it has worked since. One of these days I'll run a new ground up on the trailer and make a better connection.

[fishmeister]

If they are LED (most new ones are), there are not likely any "serviceable" parts inside.  These are usually sealed modules.  The days of changing light bulbs are fading fast.

One year seems to be a bit short-lived for an LED.  I'd go with some of the other suggestions and check for a grounding issue.  If not that, then a loose connection somewhere?

The clear lens on the left light is for a license plate.

[headduck]

Turn or brake could be connection. Each function has it's own circuit per se. Is there a splice or is it a strait run? Could be at a splice.

The driver side fails frequently on account of the lens to light the plate. In general the salt eats these up.

I find I replace a trailer light every couple years. I save the link for the last one so I always have a matching set.

[Playin Hooky]

I had the same issue and moved my ground wire to another location on the trailer for the back lights and fixed the issue!

[Old No7]

Maybe check your ground wire and make sure it's got a good connection.

In my experience, and that of my 3 brothers (all boat owners), 90% of the time it's a bad ground.  Always check that first.

Old No7

[davidsea]

  Assuming you have the industry standard wiring - and EZ-Loaders do - the trailer-to- vehicle plug will have 4 wires:  White-ground,  Brown-running lights,  Green - R turn/stop,  Yellow -L turn/stop.  You will need a 12Volt test light or cheap voltmeter to troubleshoot.
  Each tail light has only 3 wires, so it's not a bad ground - if it were, neither the running or stop/turn lights on that side would work.   Since it's the left stop/turn that's out, turn on the L turn indicator and check the yellow wire at the vehicle plug for +12V.  If good, check the yellow wire coming out of the trailer-side plug.  If good, check the yellow wire going into the L tail light.  If there's no voltage there, the problem is in the wiring on the trailer frame between the tongue and the light.  If there is voltage at the tail light, replace it - they are sealed units with LED's potted in epoxy and are not repairable.   Being solid-state, they should last for years, but being cheap - they don't....

[Fishful Thinking]

I had a slightly corroded ground at the beginning of this season. Same as the others, cleaned with a wire brush, I put a thin coating of no-ox-id on the contacts and no more issues. Hopefully you get it figured out.

[AJFishin]

Check your trucks fuses, I had a similar issue, ended up being a unique fuse blew out on my Ford Ranger, getting to the fuse was only half the adventure, but after replacing the fuse everything worked.

[Tailout]

Thanks guys for all the good advice. Hey davidsea what's the blue wire for? I got my meter and test light out and low and behold I don't have power for the driver side turn/stop terminal yellow wire at my truck. This trailer has the 5-wire flat plug, there's an extra wire for the surge brakes backup circuit. This is the OME trailer plug with the round  spring loaded door. It's on a 2005 Chevy I pulled the thing apart and tested each part, yellow wire no voltage coming to the receptacle . I checked all the fuses all good. Where do I go from here? the trouble is where you find it. Must be in the  harness??

[AJFishin]

I have a 7 blade to 4 flat adapter plug that has test lights on it that I bought after my recent trailer rewire a couple weeks ago. It's supposed to tell me which wire has a problem and if no lights come on, then it's a faulty ground or blown fuse. It was $12 at AutoZone and I'm sure there's a different adapters.

To add, before I figured to check my fuse, I first pulled all my trailer wires. My trailer wires were old, not new like yours, but I did find 1 wire pinched, and the jacket cut a little, behind my trailer light and because of this, I believe it was the culprit that blew the fuse.

[davidsea]

Thanks guys for all the good advice. Hey davidsea what's the blue wire for? I got my meter and test light out and low and behold I don't have power for the driver side turn/stop terminal yellow wire at my truck. This trailer has the 5-wire flat plug, there's an extra wire for the surge brakes backup circuit. This is the OME trailer plug with the round  spring loaded door. It's on a 2005 Chevy I pulled the thing apart and tested each part, yellow wire no voltage coming to the receptacle . I checked all the fuses all good. Where do I go from here? the trouble is where you find it. Must be in the  harness??

 Check online to see if you can find a wiring diagram for your truck...there may be some fuses separate from the normal fuse box location that feed the trailer harness.  As a last resort, just tap the wire right at the truck's tailight and run a wire from that directly to the truck's plug.
    The blue wire can have one of several functions.  On my trailer with hydraulic discs, it's connected to the backup light circuit and goes to a solenoid valve on the actuator that locks out pressure to the brakes when you're in reverse.  On trailers with electric brakes, it provides constant 12V to keep a small battery on the trailer charged.  If the trailer hitch releases or fails on the road, a breakaway cable activates a switch at the battery to apply the brakes to (hopefully) stop the runaway trailer before it hits something. 

[Tailout]

Yea there is a second fuse box for the trailer harness, all looked good but I changed them anyway no help. I'm going to get on my back and try to follow the wiring , looking for a splice or damage to the yellow wire. running a homerun wire from the taillight might be the answer. Thanks for all the help

[agoodhi]

had a similar issue with my toy hauler lights (one side out). turned out to be at the truck end, but fuses were good too.  i crawled underneath to follow the receptacle wiring. it led to a factory connector that was cracked so both ends were not making good contact. i ordered a new factory harness (with receptacle) about 1.5ft long and plugged it into the existing connector underneath the bed.  now everything works!!!

[Tailout]

Well I found the problem, just like the meter showed open out. When the fuses checked out I was looking for a clean open and that's what I found. I did a little four wheeling on some gravel bars last winter while Steelhead fishing and bottomed out a few times. The bracket for the trailer plug  sits very low and hits first, bent it up a couple of times. I didn't realize at the time that I also had run the wiring into the gravel, that spot finally broke. The plastic cover hid everything. Spliced up and rerouted, good to good.   

[Tailout]

Spot on davidsea the blue wire is for my backup circuit solenoid valve. I found out that I had this feature the first time I launched this trailer. I unplugged the trailer lights like I always have and the trailer brakes locked up, Thanks everybody for the sound advise