Splash well.......and...

[Seattleflyfisher]

Posting some pictures after my motor install. After a few PM's with questions I thought we needed a thread with ideas on motor mounts. One thing that I did not know about was the transom saver. I am sure that installer thought with the weight of the motor it might be needed.

Please add pictures if you have done anything different.

[First Cabin]

Interesting.  Thanks.  But when I hear "transom saver", that isn't what I think of.  A web search doesn't bring that up either.  Is there another name for it?

Edit.... Found it....  "Transom Support Plate"

Need to think about this....  Aluminum will oxidize and I won't like the look.  Is it necessary?  Hmmmmm...

[Seattleflyfisher]

O geez!   Maybe I have the wrong name. I know I was told it is about $25.  Anybody else here know what it is?


SFF

[First Cabin]

Sure looks like a nice install...

I hope I can do a decent job myself. 

[vxhatch]

Looks good 

Looks like they call it a transom support plate.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Transom-Support-Plate-for-Outboard-Boats-/120361055703?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item1c0613f5d7&vxp=mtr

[Seattleflyfisher]

When I went to the boat show I looked at a lot of motor installs on the boats. I really liked the Hydraulic hoses that were connected to the bulk head. I paid $100 for mine. Here is a pair for $129

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEASTAR-TELEFLEX-18-BULKHEAD-HYDRAULIC-HOSE-KIT-/280865922078?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&hash=item4164e9dc1e&vxp=mtr#ht_478wt_141

I had a few discussions with the mechanic on how the install would look.


SFF

[FISHSTALKER]

Hummmm! ...I've never seen that kind of brace before. Looks good!
In all my years the name "transom saver" has been the addition of a metal support with rubber ends from the rear frame of the trailer and supporting the lower unit of the motor. It would eliminate the jarring weight of the motor when in transit and It is a good saver of the hydraulic tilt and trim.

[Markshoreline]

SFF,
What a clean, clean splashwell.  Everything looks so organized and spiffy.  I really like the single cable to the motor but especially the hydraulic steering.  I see one of those in my future after this fishing season.
You need to share more photos with us.  Nice job!   
Mark

[Wyrguy]

SFF,
Nice and clean it is, but I'm intrigued by the round hatch in the motor well and what do you access through there? (and I assume it's watertight?) I'm not sure that I'd want to test the watertightness in that with some of the 'uglies' Ive been out in (but not in an Arima...yet!)  :twocents:
Rick

[GoodDays]

The round hatches have a big O ring and screw down tight.   I havent seen an issue with them yet on several boats I run.... I think they will handle pretty much anything...

GoodDays Greg

[StreamFixer]

Random though, maybe a little bit related. 

If you decide you are going with hydraulic steering, the Bay Star works fine, however, only the Sea Star will allow connection of hydraulic steering to your kicker.

StreamFixer

[First Cabin]

I'd love to see pictures of the guts of this install!

Coming into the bulkhead with the hydraulic steering....must be elbows then do the hoses run in front of or behind the starboard bait well?  Do they tuck away fairly neatly?

With the gas tank underneath, then the fuel pickup going out to the filter, then back in to run down to the motor.  Is there another line running back over to the kicker?

Then, you must have the control cables and wires going up to the helm....

I am neck deep in trying to figure out how to cleanly route all this and let's just say, "My head hurts!"   I have all the respect in the world for those of you that can keep this stuff from looking like a bowl of spaghetti!

[Threeweight]

SFF, that thru-hull steering cable set up looks sweet!  I am thinking about replacing the tubes on my Baystar to get a little less stiff steering.

So if I understand correctly, those hoses go directly from the steering ram, through the bulk head, to the helm at the front, with the flanges being used to seal the bulk head areas and prevent rubbing?  There are no additional hoses, correct?

[Seattleflyfisher]

Yes....

I will take the hose apart and take more pictures. The hose is made of Kevlar and is so soft. This hose retail is $300 and can be picked up for $100 off of ebay.


SFF

[beancounter]

SFF love your big wire loom is that a shop vac hose ?

[Chuck Jones]

I have an older '91 hull, but the dealer mounted the rubber grommet that all the wiring and steering cables go thru....up high on the starboard side of the spashwell.  I see that yours are mounted low...so they must be a lot more watertight than mine.  I've wanted to change out mine because that rubber boot tears after you start adding in transducers, trim tabs, and other accessories....but back then, they put in the rubber boots with pop rivets, then ran the wiring and cables thru it and put a zip tie around the ribbed edge of the boot and  cables to close it up....but by no means is this water tight.  The only advantage is that it's high up in the spashwell and you'd have to have a lot of water in the boat to get the batteries wet.

JW and I were talking about designing some sort of split circular clamp out of thick plastic composition and have it clamp tightly around the wiring, then screw it into the side of the splashwell and calk it with 5200 as well as use silicone in the center where the bunched up wires/cables come thru the side.  The disadvantage is that if you want to add in some other electrical device or cables, you have the clamp tight around the existing wiring and the center plugged with silicone.

I haven't heard of any Arima taking on water thru the side of the splashwell, so this may be a case of over engineering and being somewhat anal over trying to fix something that doesn't really need fixing.  My objection is more cosmetic...I don't like the look of the torn rubber boot...but that's the result of adding doo-dads.

[woody]

Yep I think you are being anal.  You have an advantage in that it is mounted high ... many members have tried to duplicate this.

I've replaced the boot, drilled out the rivets.  You can get a new boot with a split or split your new one.  Re rivet or screw in place.

I don't use 5200 there, no problems.  4200 would be a better choice.  Light tie is as good as too tight.  Two ties (an inch apart) is better than one.

You haven't identified a problem so you don't need a solution.   Sorta of like you have a solution looking for a problem. Cosmetics? Who's judging our splash wells?

Woody

[Threeweight]

A number of us running smaller Arima's in bigger seas have had problems with water coming in through the boots on the transom.  It is usually a problem with the steering cable boot (for those with cable steering), which is on the bottom of the motor well on the starboard side, and in boats with heavy 4 strokes or carrying a heavy load.  I have had following seas push a significant amount of water into my boat through that boot (so much that my auto bilge pump would come on once every 5-10 minutes).  At Neah Bay last month, Gary and Griz had to do some emergency bailing in his little 16'.

I solved the problem by switching to hydraulic steering, relocating my fuel line and control cables to a new hole/boot mounted higher in the motor well, and sealing off the old hole with Marine Tex.  Someone here made a "cap" out of Starboard plastic (two pieces) that they used to seal their steering cable hole.  The two pieces of plastic had a hole just big enough for the cables to go through.  They mounted the plastic, then sealed the cables/hole with silicone.  Still not 100% water tight (nothing will stick permanently to Starboard, but it helped a lot.

None of the boots are water tight, or intended to be.  They are there to keep splash and spray from getting in.

[ak-angler]

During my recent re-rigging project, I used these T-H Marine motorwell boots. They cinch up snugly around the cables with a Ty-Wrap (the cables to the motor are also inside a T-H Marine zippered rigging sleeve). If you need to get back into them to add another cable or wire, the Ty-Wrap can be cut to allow access, and then another one can be installed. They're not perfectly water tight. But, as Threeweight said, they're not intended to be.

[Salmon King]

Darren,

What is the purpose of the round access hole in the splash well deck?

[Chuck Jones]

AK:  I like the looks of that rubber boot and rigging sleeve, and would like to replace the old boot I have.   The rigging sleeve can be replaced by other sorts of wiring loom tubing. That boot would be a great install at the time of the initial rigging, but the boot shown in the picture would have to be split to retro the replacement, and that would ruin the watertight protection it serves....unless you were to split it on top and seal it with some zip ties over a durable and long lasting water resistant tape of some sort.  The best part of that boot is its length.  Mine are short as is common with the rigging of the older boats.

[FISHSTALKER]

If you are having water entry problems through the boot, there is an inexpensive cure. Waterproof spray foam shot into the backside of the boot will fill and seal the leak areas. Just shave off any of the excess that expands out of the openings.