Anybody have some tips on making pipe jigs?

[wedocq]

We always make pipe jigs at our lead pours, and they always are a pain in the arse! No matter what we do, the lead always pours out the bottom. We have tried putting them in a bucket of sand, and we have tried drilling holes in 2x4s and stinking the pipe into the hole in hopes the lead does not seep out. It always does!  Anyone got some better ideas??
-Shawn

[Deviant]

Brass cap on the bottom and do not drill through the side for the cotter pin until cold.

[Doc]

Not sure what type of pipe you are using but if you use rolled or straight copper tubing end caps could be put on a head of time and should work ok.

[wedocq]

Not sure what type of pipe you are using but if you use rolled or straight copper tubing end caps could be put on a head of time and should work ok.

We are using 3/4" Copper pipe. The end caps are a great idea!

[dbhazjack]

Hey Shawn, I've made a ton of them and just crimp one end closed in a vise and drill a small hole through the crimp for a swivel. Works great with no lead leaks. Just stick the crimped end in a bucket of sand and fill-er-up.

[disposable]

Hey Shawn, I've made a ton of them and just crimp one end closed in a vise and drill a small hole through the crimp for a swivel. Works great with no lead leaks. Just stick the crimped end in a bucket of sand and fill-er-up.

exactly. you can also use epoxy resin and sand to fill it really thoroughly, just try not to leave air in it, and crimp both ends really tightly with that vise. if you wanna make the crimps long, you can bend them funny as you like, and remember to drill the holes OFFcenter, so the thing swims right.

[FishBio]

+1 crimping the end in a vise. I've used vise grips, too, but they're a pain. A bench vise is a much easier, one-step crimp. Then stick in a bucket of sand for the pouring step. Drilling the hole for the hook can be fun, too, when the bit binds in the soft lead. Clamping the jig back in the vise or clamping to a bench makes it easier. Have two hands on that drill.

[BayWolf]

If you're wanting open end, or don't want to crimp, what about using clay?  If you had blocks of clay, you could place the bottom of the pipe into the clay then build up around the outside to hold it in place to pour.  I was thinking about using this method when I try to make my "pipe" downrigger weights.  Just a thought.  I believe they use clay in some foundry operations.  Not sure what type tho.

UPDATE:  Friend of mine contacted me and said that "Clay" is probably not the right word.  There are foundry putty's that can withstand the 600F temps of molten lead, but clays will not. The putty's can be quite expensive.

Casting sand of course is used for aluminum and lead, but then you aren't casting.

[ohmytodd]

Crimping one end in a vise also gives you a flat surface for drilling a hole and running a big spit ring through to connect to your line.

[disposable]

i'm rereading this thread, and may have been confused earlier:

if you mean copper pipe with treble/hoochie on the end, as in a swimming lure, i think solid poured lead can be a little too heavy and i recommend sand or lead shot in epoxy resin.

if you mean pipe weights, as in downrigger weights, i use threaded steel pipe and a threaded cap, fill with lead up to the top and add the sinker eye as the last pour comes in the top, and then use pipewrences to spin the cap off the bottom while it's still really hot.

when pouring lead into pipe, i just use a big C-clamp or big adjustable pliers.

[wedocq]

There's no such thing as "too heavy" when you're fishing 700' of water!! 🤪 Thanks for all the ideas!
-Shawn

[FishBio]

i'm rereading this thread, and may have been confused earlier:

if you mean copper pipe with treble/hoochie on the end, as in a swimming lure, i think solid poured lead can be a little too heavy and i recommend sand or lead shot in epoxy resin.

if you mean pipe weights, as in downrigger weights, i use threaded steel pipe and a threaded cap, fill with lead up to the top and add the sinker eye as the last pour comes in the top, and then use pipewrences to spin the cap off the bottom while it's still really hot.

when pouring lead into pipe, i just use a big C-clamp or big adjustable pliers.

Disposable,
The question is about pipe jigs we use off the PNW coast for deep lings and halibut. They're 1-2lb+, have copper, lead, and stainless which sets up a galvanic action that rings the dinner bell for big fish in the deeps. Hanging a big, clattering treble from the middle helps with the ringing. Easy, affordable, one stop shop for big fish out deep. Like 300'-500' deep. A vise helps crimp the bottom. I just cut the top at an angle and drill for a split ring.

[xplorz]

I bought a couple at Fishermans Marine and they had the end crimp also. Think they were a Danielsons product.

[Tesoro]

I have done ALOT of deep dropping in past life. Thats fishing in 600-1200 ft. The advantage of having a pipe shaped sinker ( or lure in this case) is that it goes straight down to the bottom fast, thus minimizing current drift on the way down. For any type of bottom fishing you want your line as vertical as possible.
I see nothing but a problem with pinching off the end of the pipe in a vise in order to save 60 cents by not using a pipe cap. 

[FishBio]

I have done ALOT of deep dropping in past life. Thats fishing in 600-1200 ft. The advantage of having a pipe shaped sinker ( or lure in this case) is that it goes straight down to the bottom fast, thus minimizing current drift on the way down. For any type of bottom fishing you want your line as vertical as possible.
I see nothing but a problem with pinching off the end of the pipe in a vise in order to save 60 cents by not using a pipe cap.

That's a fair point, Tesoro. A pipe cap is a cheap and effective solution. I've always considered the pinched tab a benefit because I could bend it at a 45 to impart some action when jigging. It's surprising how much action a 1/4" tab will create. I haven't had any apparent trouble with twisting or tangling but I also don't fish deeper than 400'.

[Tesoro]

200-400 ft is still deep and esp with some current! if you have a bent tab or just think your tab is straight it will miss your target by alot more than you think - with or without current. We experimented in real clear caribbean water with masks on to see the effects. Thats why the deep drop molds/weights the guides use have square bottoms.

[Wiley]

Pictures please...

[wedocq]

200-400 ft is still deep

Ahhh...200'-400'. Those were the days...lol. With Neah Bay closed, our deep water fishing is out of Westport, and it's 600-800' deep.  I always back troll and try to keep my lines as vertical as possible. Are you saying a crimped end is still no good even if I am doing that? I need to dial these suckers in!
-Shawn

[Tesoro]

I hope you are using electrics in 6-800ft! anything works but conventional deep drop sinkers work the best. I used to have molds to make ones like in the pic. copper pipe works great with a cap on the bottom. anything with a fin on the bottom is going to make the weight drop less vertical.

[wedocq]

I hope you are using electrics in 6-800ft!

Definitely! Daiwa Tanacom 1000's for sure! Those things are game changers. Last year we got into a mess of the sablefish @800' and we didn't even blink an eye. 
-Shawn

[Markshoreline]

Wow, I love sable fish/black cod!