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Advice on buying a new Arima

Started by FryFish, November 25, 2020, 09:19:47 AM

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FryFish

Hi guys,

I've got a deposit down on a brand new 17SC. Due to be ready around March. The deposit is refundable, but my 1st mate (Dad) is 73 and we don't want to miss any time fishing together. So, although it hurts me and my frugal purchasing lifestyle, it is looking like we will go brand new vs gambling on the used market. This will be paired with my existing 90hp 2019 Suzuki and 2015 bunk trailer, so we're talking hull only.

I'm looking for any do's and don'ts, options to go for vs avoid. Things that are much better to do yourself after the purchase, etc.

Our budget is already pretty much maxed out, depending on the results of our pending insurance claim. I'm trying my hardest not to speculate about that until the process is over. But if there are can't miss options I'll consider them.

Honestly can't think of a lot, but I'm totally unfamiliar with the process. So far I plan:

Nix both companion seats, we run 2 pedestals now and I like the room and we almost never fish more than 2. I have always wanted suspension for the passenger, can you order them from the factory? Huge mark up?

Canvas. The canvas I have on my current boat is totally fine. I would think it would fit any 17SC? Should I skip the new canvas to save money? We literally use it 1-2x per year, if that.

Fixed kicker bracket. Can you bolt a motor on to these? I'd assume they don't come with any holes for that?

Flush mount scotty adapters, I'd do that myself?

Any suggestions? Things I'm missing?

1998 17' SC -- Sold
2021 17' SC - Suzuki 90hp - Yamaha F8

AndyC

2004 Sea Ranger 19'
1989 Sea Explorer 16' (sold)

FishAddict

I know there are after market pedestal suspension options.  Check the Cali forum on bloody decks in the Parker section as those guys install them a lot.  My friend purchased a Defiance from them and they installed a shockwave S5.  Shockwave needs a box to mount onto but is a fantastic suspension seat.  I have one and it makes a big difference.
21ft Sea Ranger w/Yamaha F150

Fishgriller

Trim tabs are highly recommended.  You can have them installed at the factory or yourself, depending on your time availability and cost. I installed Lencos myslelf.  Never did that before but was able to with Lenco's excellent technical support. It was about 1/3 price the carpet would charge.  When I was buying, Defiance was installing Instatrim hydraulic tabs, don't know if they would install others.  I wanted electrics.  I think the factory installed boarding ladder is a good idea.  It is much easier to install before other items are added and the build is finished, it is not cheap but well made and installed and is a useful safety feature. Regarding canvas, I believe that they are custom made to the boat as slight build tolerance differences may not match other same model canvas attachment points, you may want to check with Defiance on that.
2018 Sea Chaser 17, 2018 Yamaha F115

Hunter

Since you are having the boat built, maybe think about any additional backing or blocking that would be easier to get done at the build stage.   Stuff like a block/pad epoxied in for bilge pumps, electrical panel board in the batt compartment.....maybe a transducer mounting block on the transom.

Last but not least...maybe tell them to consider the fact that the in floor belly tank is really the better way to go for these boats.   Probably not too difficult of a job if done at the build stage.
2001 Sea Legend 22 (Gone But Not Forgotten)
2017 Hewescraft Ocean Pro 220 ET-HT - Honda BF250 & Honda 9.9 Power Thrust
All Garmin Electronics

"ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY!!"

Crackerbox

Fryfish,

If I am not mistaken, the canvas comes with the purchase, but that could have changed since I bought mine.  A lot of options to consider but it also depends on the fishing you two like to do and where.  If you let us know what type of fishing you plan on doing we can make better suggestions.

Joe


FryFish

Thanks. Glad I asked, lots of things I hadn't considered.

I do it all in this boat, fish 2 people 99% of the time. We fish every marine species and spring chinook in the Columbia/Willamette.

Thinking about 2 bilge pumps and maybe larger outlets for those. I have electronics, but a transducer mount sounds great for easy upgrade when the time comes.

I never use the fish boxes, would love a belly tank. Would expect that to be major. But never hurts to ask I guess!
1998 17' SC -- Sold
2021 17' SC - Suzuki 90hp - Yamaha F8

Yachter Yat

   Hi FryFish:  Good for you.  You must be exited.  The only thing I didn't see suggested was hydraulic steering.   Budget allowing, this might be something to consider.  Good luck and have fun. 


Yat 
History is not the past; it's the present, as we all carry it with us......James Baldwin    
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

Fisherdv

Quote from: Yachter Yat on November 25, 2020, 01:10:33 PM
   Hi FryFish:  Good for you.  You must be exited.  The only thing I didn't see suggested was hydraulic steering.   Budget allowing, this might be something to consider.  Good luck and have fun. 


Yat
:yeahthat: skip the cable steering boot normal location, and have it raised up a few inches higher. Much less chance for water intrusion. I did exactly that when I had my boat built.

2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda BFP60

First Cabin

I'd love to buy an Arima hull with no holes!

Hydraulic steering and trim tabs are required on any Arima I own.

A sealed motor well would also be required.  You are putting your own motor on so you may as well do it right!


First:  1982 15' SeaHunter, Yamaha 70 2-stroke, Yamaha F6
Second:  1987 17' SeaRanger, Merc 90 2-stroke, Yamaha F8
Current:  2002 17' SeaChaser, Yamaha F100, Yamaha T8

La-Z-Buoy

The kicker bracket does not come with holes for the motor. Holes to mount to the boat, yes. Not for the motor. Easy enough to drill for the motor. I bolted mine to the bracket just to be more secure as I knew I wasn't going to be removing it in the foreseeable future.

Trim tabs wouldn't hurt. I got by with Smart Tabs on my 17SC.

On the new boats are the wipers pantographic? If not, consider it.

If canvas is optional I strongly recommend getting it, to include back drop curtain.

Stainless steel retractable stern tiedowns.
Richard

2001 21' Sea Ranger HT
2017 DF 140 Suzuki, Honda 8

Danno

Have them install a brass through hull in the motor well not their stand plastic one. If they want to charge for the forming tool, I can send you one to let them use. Net cost difference should be negligible.

If you're installing your own outboards, wire it yourself. That should cut some labor off the price.

Hydraulic steering is a no-brained to have installed as already stated.

They will discount the cost of the canvas but you still have the labor cost of having them install yours. You might consider selling yours and getting the new one from Arima. There might not be that much difference. Canvas top should be easy to sell.

If you don't use your fish box, consider having them open up a spot for a transducer. Then it will be out off the way of trim tabs.



2015 19' Sea Chaser (2019 to current)
1998 19' Sea Ranger (2003 to 2008)

Lures are designed to catch fishermen not fish.

Hunter

Quote from: Danno on November 25, 2020, 05:05:17 PM

If you don't use your fish box, consider having them open up a spot for a transducer. Then it will be out off the way of trim tabs.

Danno hit the nail on the head with this..... I really think that a through hull (not shoot through) 1000wt ducer is something that you will always be glad you did... 
2001 Sea Legend 22 (Gone But Not Forgotten)
2017 Hewescraft Ocean Pro 220 ET-HT - Honda BF250 & Honda 9.9 Power Thrust
All Garmin Electronics

"ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY!!"

davidsea

   :yeahthat:

Hydraulic steering with raised wiring/cable boot,  1500 GPH or larger pump with 1 1/8" plumbing,  boarding ladder,  panto wipers, electric tabs, through-hull transducer., brass drain...... all much easier to do in the build process.  If the cost goes too high, eliminate the ones easiest to do later, like wipers, tabs, and ladder.
1996 SR19 Hdtp. - 2018 Honda  BF115D
2009 Duroboat 16 CC, Honda BF50  -  SOLD
and 19 other boats (I think, lost count)

Markshoreline

If you are uncomfortable with the $$$, you can consider a used boat with a dead or no motor for much less than the factory will charge for their new hull.  Just make sure it is a newer hull with the larger spray rails- they run much drier than the older models.  My 91 had the small ones and my current 02 has the large ones but not sure of the change date.
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

Tesoro

[quote author=Hunter link=topic=19921.msg235160#msg235160 date=1606329186

Last but not least...maybe tell them to consider the fact that the in floor belly tank is really the better way to go for these boats.   Probably not too difficult of a job if done at the build stage.
[/quote]

I am behind you on this! and then one wont need trim tabs. And one can mount a thru hull transducer with easy access. But am sure you will have to put in a belly tank yourself. I think that a manu cannot modify CG approved hull plans, and esp with fuel mods, without having to go thru a new cert process which is a huge hassle.
and expense.

+ specify/require 100% tinned marine wiring
+ all bronze thru hulls
+ no factory boarding ladder (install your own that will work in emergency for your dad)
+ Baystar steering

I dont know what a new hull costs but if on budget I would really look at used.  I see many lake boats come up used that were not around the ocean and well kept. The original Arimas have much better build quality and much better hardware. If you have the time and place and experience to do it then a refit of an older one can save you bucks. But it will also take ALOT of spare time to re-do it. There is nothing fast about working on inside of small boats! Unless you are 125lbs lean and can do yoga all day long!
2009 21HT Yam 150/8 'Hogfish'

I'd rather be drinking in a bar wishing I was on the ocean, than be on the ocean wishing I was in a bar.

FryFish

Next week I'll have to get the timeline for when the new build starts. I want to commit to that fully once the build gets to a point of asking for customizations. I've got the boat ordered through Y marina in coos bay, so I'm not sure how that process works honestly. Like if I deal with them or straight with the factory. I am 100% open to buying used in the next few months, although room to park 2 boats while rigging is a problem.

I don't want to miss an entire season at this point, and from what I've seen while helping a few other members in their search I'm not counting on seeing something come up that fits my criteria.  (Must have the deeper chines post '96 and be in very good condition).

Another thing I guess I would consider is starting off with forward mounted battery(s). I wonder if they could build in a tray for those in the cuddy
1998 17' SC -- Sold
2021 17' SC - Suzuki 90hp - Yamaha F8

Fisherdv

I can see Defience or the dealer doing "minor" mods here or there, but I highly doubt they will go beyond that.
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda BFP60

FryFish

Yeah I know they are slammed. From what I understand, this is the only 17SC that was available until 2022. So I'll temper my expectations.

For sure:
2 bilge pumps
Marine wiring
brass through hulls

Maybe:
Baystar/higher boot. Can you still use the higher location for cable steering? I've been pretty happy with my cable steering from 1998, but I've never used hydraulic steering. Maybe that is a good thing!

I'll get price on trim tabs. I've been fine without them, but would love to plane at slower speeds. Right now I start to drop off around 15mph..

1998 17' SC -- Sold
2021 17' SC - Suzuki 90hp - Yamaha F8

Fisherdv

Once you have used hydraulic steering, you will never go back to cable. I don't think the higher boot location will work with cable. It will not be aligned properly.

Trim tabs you can install yourself rather easily. Just follow the provided instructions. I like the idea of waiting and doing them yourself so you can see exactly were you will mount everything like the transducer etc. on the transom and plan accordingly.
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda BFP60

Liberty Call

When I was at the dealer going through the options I had to make certain calls about if I can afford it or is it a necessity.  Thinks like a radar pod with rocket launchers or  side rails with the downrigger mounts.  Do I put the 115 or the 150 Yamaha and if I do go up to the 150 do I put the hydraulic steering on it. Do I want the water wash down or not.  While all this is going through my head, my wife was telling me to remember to stick to budget. 
If you can write down what all you want on your boat, the prioritize them you will find the difference between what you want to what you need. 
In my case I hade room for the hydraulic steering and trim tabs. 

I have put everything on mine to be safe and sea worthy like my kicker and VHF and fire extinguisher not to mention life vest and the throw.  I have my radar bolted on but don't have my MF screen hooked to it as of yet.  Soon.  I will put some time on it Saturday by going out in the San Juan's at high/slack tide. 

Good luck on your build.  Stay within your budget and you'll do fine.  Get what you need now and what you want later. 

Stay safe.

Ko Ho

Keel Guard. For your brand new hull.
2006 17 Sea Chaser, Twin Yamaha 40's

Fishgriller

If you decide not to get factory transducer mounting pad, here is a really good reasonably priced alternative. I put this on when I mounted my trim tabs 2.5 years ago. Very easy to put on, just make sure you clean the mounting site properly.  Works great, my transducer stays put solid even at 40mph, no signs of transducer screws loosening.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFKBTY1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ZmaWFbKXKC6S2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
2018 Sea Chaser 17, 2018 Yamaha F115

Fisherdv

Quote from: Fishgriller on November 26, 2020, 11:42:51 AM
If you decide not to get factory transducer mounting pad, here is a really good reasonably priced alternative. I put this on when I mounted my trim tabs 2.5 years ago. Very easy to put on, just make sure you clean the mounting site properly.  Works great, my transducer stays put solid even at 40mph, no signs of transducer screws loosening.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFKBTY1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ZmaWFbKXKC6S2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I also have that. Very nice. Just make sure you plan the transom layout before.
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda BFP60

Liberty Call

I too have purchased one of these and applied it to my transom this week.  Looks great and I'm happy.  No drilling! No holes!  Sea trials tomorrow.