Advice on buying a new Arima

[Tesoro]

I never knew those pads existed. Great idea!

ps: I forgot one recommendation. Consider not having the rod holders installed in the far rear of the top deck behind the bait wells. I never use mine and with time the rubber caps get looser. When washing boat they can leak water down into your battery and electronics areas under the bait tanks. I wish I didnt have mine there. Its on my to do list to figure out a way to cap the bottom and run a drain line into the bilge.

[First Cabin]

ps: I forgot one recommendation. Consider not having the rod holders installed in the far rear of the top deck behind the bait wells. I never use mine and with time the rubber caps get looser. When washing boat they can leak water down into your battery and electronics areas under the bait tanks. I wish I didnt have mine there. Its on my to do list to figure out a way to cap the bottom and run a drain line into the bilge.

100% agree with that one.  I wish Arima would stop putting holes in the boat that not everyone has a use for, especially in locations that often have electrical components under them!

[FryFish]

Well, it sounds like I have quite limited options with the new boat. I'm not sure if that is just a difference between Defiance and the old Arima operation, or if it is because I'm purchasing the boat through a dealer and it was already on order with certain specs.

I was told brass through hulls no longer available, possibly due to the use of coosa board instead of wood?

I was also told that the newer boats are substantially lighter in the transom due to the use of coosa board. I was going to have my motor and controls installed with battery in cuddy if possible. But maybe that won't be necessary with the lighter transom.

So for now, I'm hoping for two pedestals with no companion seats, 2 bilge pumps with 2 outlets.. and I think that is about it for customizations. I'll slap one of those transducer mounting pads on there instead of drilling into the transom. This might be best anyway as I hate to pay a huge markup on options that I can install over time.

For 2 bilge pumps, I don't really see the need to have one on a float switch. But am I missing something with that? The boat would never be moored.

[disposable]

i would assume the switch from ply to coosa in the transom will shave a LITTLE weight, but i wouldn't expect it to very significant (less than ten pounds, my guess), so i would try to move the batteries (or some other weight) forward if you can.

the switched bilge pump is a double-edged sword: nice that it's automatic (to keep running in the background, or when moored), but maybe sucks that it's automatic (if you forget it's on it can get drain battery or get stuck in that "endless loop of millimeter-of-water in/out of the hose switches on-off forever"). personally, i like it, as long as it's switchable, because i can "set it and forget it" for every multi-day trip; and then i have a second bilge for emergencies.

[FryFish]

That's sort of what I thought too about the transom weight. I've been a little less than impressed honestly with the dealer's knowledge of Arimas. Seems to be less than mine and I've only been in the game 5 years. Of course I've been a little obsessive and have learned a lot since my recent ordeal with my existing hull. 

I'm torn on the switchable bilge pump because it seems like something that would be better done on installation. On many of my trips I wait to pump the bloody bilge water out to avoid attracting sharks to the party. Will see what the factory comes back with. I don' think the boat has been started, since it was originally supposed to be done Jan/Feb, then March, now maybe May...

[Fisherdv]

FWIW, my 2018 MY 16SC has a brass drain plug factory.

[FryFish]

Ah, we'll see what comes back from the factory. Kind of annoying having to go through dealer, but trying not to be the most annoying customer ever

[Tesoro]

I like the little rule auto pumps. They turn on every 2 min and sense for water. No float to malfunction. You can also turn off the pump so it wont do auto sense and turn it on manually. I just put 2 new 800 gph ones on my boat. one manual and one auto. 

[whale]

Upgrade anchor roller,get something that holds an anchor.
Larger cleats, you don't have a place to tie the fenders, the stock cleats only lets you tie one line.
Bow light, if you can mount the split ones by the bow instead of the current location.
I love my SC, I don't like the cheap stock hardwares.

[FryFish]

From what I gather, there are pretty limited options and they don't really do a customized build. Factory won't install 2 bilge pumps which was kind of surprising.

However, they did say brass drain fitting available. I'm not really sure I even need that, so I may ask what they recommend. My plastic one has been fine.

Now I'm down to trim tabs, hydraulic steering. Both are around $850 from factory. I was planning on neither of these. It seems like the number one cause of days off the water, or problems on the water are hydraulic steering leaks. Cable has worked fine for me over the last 1000 hours of mostly salt time, but maybe I got lucky.

I've seen that trim tabs has been beaten to death on this site. I didn't see anyone say they got them and regretted it. For some reason I hate the idea of them on the transom, but I love the idea of getting on plane below 15mph!

I'm not meant to have this many choices...

[Hydroman]

From what I gather, there are pretty limited options and they don't really do a customized build. Factory won't install 2 bilge pumps which was kind of surprising.

However, they did say brass drain fitting available. I'm not really sure I even need that, so I may ask what they recommend. My plastic one has been fine.

Now I'm down to trim tabs, hydraulic steering. Both are around $850 from factory. I was planning on neither of these. It seems like the number one cause of days off the water, or problems on the water are hydraulic steering leaks. Cable has worked fine for me over the last 1000 hours of mostly salt time, but maybe I got lucky.

I've seen that trim tabs has been beaten to death on this site. I didn't see anyone say they got them and regretted it. For some reason I hate the idea of them on the transom, but I love the idea of getting on plane below 15mph!

I'm not meant to have this many choices...

Never had a hydraulic leak in 20 years of using SEA STAR systems. The $850 doesn't seem out of line for either the hydraulic steering or trim tabs.

Jim

[Fisherdv]

Do all the smaller items yourself. Remember, you will have a higher boat tax yearly based on the total purchase price of the boat, depending on where you live. Try to keep the purchase price low as possible for that reason.

Do the boat purchase, then on a separate bill, have them do the add ons, if necessary.

[whale]

The factory may not do options but you are better off asking them not to install hardware than trying to fill holes and remount.
Even the pedestals, I'd move them forward if I didn't have to deal with filling the holes.

[AlexB]

Would you mind sharing the price you were quoted for your new SC17, and which add-ons/upgrades were included?

I'm in a similar boat, so to speak. I just don't have the time, patience, or ability to travel out of state at the tiniest moment's notice - all of which seem to be required for anyone trying to navigate the used Arima market...

Unless the right used boat literally falls in my lap at the right time I will probably be stuck ordering one...

[FryFish]

I've got the trailer and motor, so for me the base price for a 17SC, hull only, is around 27K. I live in Oregon, so no sales tax. Not sure if it is actually more expensive to buy direct from the factory or if you save money without a dealer markup. This includes 2 pedestal seats and cable steering, canvas. If you check out arimaboats.com you can see the full sheet for a base model. Add trailer and motor and you're looking at 40K and up.

I would usually not even consider going new. But with the used boat availability, and my crippling indecision, I'm no match for the used market at this time

[Crackerbox]

Yeah I know they are slammed. From what I understand, this is the only 17SC that was available until 2022. So I'll temper my expectations.

For sure:
2 bilge pumps
Marine wiring
brass through hulls

Maybe:
Baystar/higher boot. Can you still use the higher location for cable steering? I've been pretty happy with my cable steering from 1998, but I've never used hydraulic steering. Maybe that is a good thing!

I'll get price on trim tabs. I've been fine without them, but would love to plane at slower speeds. Right now I start to drop off around 15mph..

I have a 19 chaser with a 115 hp.  I have never felt like I needed trim tabs,  I go out to the ocean fully loaded and it still does fine.  I am sure It would perform better with trim tabs, but I would take hydraulic steering over trim tabs. 

My 2 cents

Joe

[Liberty Call]

When I was at the dealer going through the options I had to make certain calls about if I can afford it or is it a necessity.  Things like a radar pod with rocket launchers or  side rails with the downrigger mounts.  Do I put the 115 or the 150 Yamaha and if I do go up to the 150, do I put the hydraulic steering on it. Do I want the water wash down or not.  While all this is going through my head, my wife was telling me to remember to stick to budget. 
If you can write down what all you want on your boat, then prioritize them you will find the difference between what you want to what you need. 
In my case I hade room for the hydraulic steering and trim tabs. 

I have put everything on mine to be safe and sea worthy like my kicker and VHF and fire extinguisher not to mention life vest and the throw.  I have my radar bolted on but don't have my MF screen hooked to it as of yet.  Soon.  I will put some time on it Saturday by going out in the San Juan's at high/slack tide. 

Update:  Multi-function screen installed, transducer installed and all is up and running well. 
Yesterday I installed the pot puller.  Se is ready for winter crab now.  Can't wait for shrimp season, if we have one. 

Good luck on your build.  Stay within your budget and you'll do fine.  Get what you need now and what you want later. 

Stay safe.

[Tesoro]

One minor thing that I saw on a pic of a new boat on another thread:  I noticed that the bait well hatches were secured with a nylon strap with a snap. Yuck.  The original boats just have a swiveling half moon tab of starboard that is secured by one screw and it turns to either secure the hatch down or not. Plus can open hatch and then turn the tab in to rest the lid cracked open to air out the well.

[Yachter Yat]

       I'd forgo the "Flintstone" half moon closers and send two of these to the factory:     https://gemlux.com/collections/boat-hasps-catches/products/335   These appear to be a lot tougher than the originals from years ago.   


Yat

[Tesoro]

Tougher than a piece of 1/2 in starboard?! Plus u can keep em cracked open when not in use to keep airflow mold control

[Yachter Yat]

   No........tougher than the somewhat similar plastic catches Arima used to install........you know, shortly following the disappearance of Dinosaurs from the Earth.   


Yat

[Yachter Yat]

   BTW.........if you're ordering a new Arima, you might want to inquire as to whether or not it would be possible to have the factory substitute BoatLife's LifeSeal in lieu of that straight silicone.  I'd send them a case of the stuff if necessary. 

   One other thing:  Tell them to "86" the "Hillbilly" serial number tag, and mold the hull I.D. into the glass, like they used to do.  For the life of me, I don't know how the hell that started.   


Yat

[Tesoro]

If you take all our advices then Arima will blacklist you for being the biggest PITA and you will wind up driving around a bayliner.

[whale]

If they listened to all these advices, they will have far better boat.
Arimas are great but missing few details.

[FryFish]

Hahaha. Yes I've definitely had to restrain myself. In the photos on the website they have a little access port to the nuts on the bow eye. I hope they actually do that on the newer boats.