Author Topic: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades  (Read 171 times)

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Offline Barnaclebob

Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« on: October 14, 2020, 12:12:53 PM »
Current configuration for the boat is dual batteries with a 1/both/2 switch and I've been having no problems with the current setup even with a full day of fishing with lots of weeds/shakers.  The port and starboard downriggers are hard wired with inline fuses directly to the #1 and #2 batteries respectively.  The pot puller is hard wired to the #2 battery, also with an inline fuse.  Everything else is wired to the switch so that it uses the power of whatever battery is selected.

I'm thinking its a good idea to add a fuse panel near the batteries and wire all of these hard wired accessories to that new panel.  The new panel would hook up to the switch so that everything now uses the selected battery.  That way I've always got one battery isolated, unless of course switched to "both" which I don't do except as a last resort.  I could try to stack everything onto the switch terminal but I doubt there is enough room for that and it would look shoddy.

I'm most likely going to be adding a hard wired float switch to battery #1 for the bilge pump.  The boat is kept in a covered slip so it doesn't get too much rain in it and has no through hull penetrations except the plug.  The current bilge pump is manually switched only.

Finally I'll add a shore power hookup, breaker box, Dual chargers and a blue sea systems add-a-battery so that the boat will have full batteries every time I go out.  I was starting to get concerned that the batteries weren't getting charged enough when fishing multiple sessions in a row right out of the marina.

Any problems or suggestions for this plan? Thanks.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2020, 01:48:52 PM by Barnaclebob »
1991 Sea Ranger 19
2012 Evinrude ETEC 130
2006 Yamaha 9.9

Offline GregE

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2020, 01:20:51 PM »
Starboard mounting simplifies install.  Do all the 'internal' connects then slide it in and connect the wire runs.  1/2" will bend to conform to hull.

Blue Seas hot buss, gnd buss, switch, fuse box, breaker


Fuse panel forward too


« Last Edit: October 14, 2020, 02:33:43 PM by Danno »
Greg
2005 SL 22 Honda 225 Kodak II
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Offline Barnaclebob

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2020, 01:44:04 PM »
Thanks, this is about what I had Invisioned.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2020, 01:48:27 PM by Barnaclebob »
1991 Sea Ranger 19
2012 Evinrude ETEC 130
2006 Yamaha 9.9

Offline Barnaclebob

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2020, 02:01:15 PM »
Actually after some further research, it looks like i misunderstood how the add-a-battery works.  I think ill be keeping my 1/both/2 switch to stick with my completely isolated redundant battery architecture.  The shore power charging will be the backup in case I forget to switch the batteries often enough.

Or should I go with the house/start battery architecture?  Am i missing something from thinking about it from an overal system robustness standpoint?  I.e, which has lower odds of leaving me motoring back on my kicker?
« Last Edit: October 14, 2020, 02:11:55 PM by Barnaclebob »
1991 Sea Ranger 19
2012 Evinrude ETEC 130
2006 Yamaha 9.9

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2020, 02:05:25 PM »
Make sure your helm fuse panel run is protected by a fuse or a breaker, as close to battery switch as possible.

I also chose to use the old 1/both/2 switch. I like having essentially a fully charged spare on board I can switch to if needed. Both batteries get fully charged before heading out.

Use good quality marine grade wire. My go to is Anchor Marine brand wire/connectors/lug terminals/heat shrink. A good set of lug crimpers.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2020, 02:13:24 PM by Fisherdv »
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

Offline Barnaclebob

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2020, 02:21:47 PM »
Yeah after thinking about it more, the only ways the completely isolated architecture leaves me without main engine is if both batteries cant hold a charge or if i randomly pick the good battery for the day, drain it, and the other battery cant hold a charge.

The house/motor architecture can fail if the motor battery gets the motor started in the morning but cant hold a charge and I drain the house battery during a day of fishing or if both batteries cant hold a charge.

A dual battery failure is equally as likely for both architectures.  So, assuming Im using enough juice to drain a battery in a day, i think the isolated architecture is half as likely to fail due to the randomness of picking the failed battery in the morning
« Last Edit: October 14, 2020, 02:35:52 PM by Barnaclebob »
1991 Sea Ranger 19
2012 Evinrude ETEC 130
2006 Yamaha 9.9

Online agoodhi

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2020, 04:48:50 PM »
I'm thinking of doing something similar since I too have a dual battery setup with 1/both/2 perko switch.  I plan to add a safety hub off the common terminal (with existing engine/house circuitry) of the switch.  I'm thinking of doing it in stages because I don't really know what's involved with moving the original house circuitry over to safety hub.  First stage would be to simply add hub and just run DR1, DR2, wash down pump, and trim tabs (the non-stock items) off of it.  Ultimately, I would like to add the existing helm run off the hub, or run a new wire all together to a new fuse panel (to clean up the wiring in that area).  I'm still up in the air whether I need ACR.
'04 Sea Ranger 17 | '04 Yamaha F115 (BayStar hydro) | Pacific Trailer (surge/disc brakes)

Offline DevMah

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Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2020, 09:08:09 PM »
Yeah after thinking about it more, the only ways the completely isolated architecture leaves me without main engine is if both batteries cant hold a charge or if i randomly pick the good battery for the day, drain it, and the other battery cant hold a charge.

The house/motor architecture can fail if the motor battery gets the motor started in the morning but cant hold a charge and I drain the house battery during a day of fishing or if both batteries cant hold a charge.

A dual battery failure is equally as likely for both architectures.  So, assuming Im using enough juice to drain a battery in a day, i think the isolated architecture is half as likely to fail due to the randomness of picking the failed battery in the morning
IMO

You are over thinking the 1/2 combine switch vs a house and start switch.
In either case you can combine and start your main.
Having dual batteries reduces the risk of drainage and ability to isolate/combine a battery.

Either system has its pros and cons IMO a dual battery system is better than only one battery.


I have the add a battery kit with the ACR. My house and start systems are separate, the ACR will combine and charge both batteries and isolates when the charging is stopped and battery voltage drops below 12.75 v for 30 seconds.


Here are my recommendations

Install a safety hub 100 or 150 in the rear as it is ignition protected, if installing a fuse panel in the rear make sure it is ignition rated. Remove all the inline fuses and fuse to the hub, fuse your line to the helm.

Dev


« Last Edit: October 15, 2020, 03:13:35 AM by DevMah »
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Offline DevMah

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Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2020, 09:11:01 PM »
I'm thinking of doing something similar since I too have a dual battery setup with 1/both/2 perko switch.  I plan to add a safety hub off the common terminal (with existing engine/house circuitry) of the switch.  I'm thinking of doing it in stages because I don't really know what's involved with moving the original house circuitry over to safety hub.  First stage would be to simply add hub and just run DR1, DR2, wash down pump, and trim tabs (the non-stock items) off of it.  Ultimately, I would like to add the existing helm run off the hub, or run a new wire all together to a new fuse panel (to clean up the wiring in that area).  I'm still up in the air whether I need ACR.

Sounds like a good plan
The ACR will allow charging of both batteries safely.


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Offline Barnaclebob

Re: Sanity Check on Some Winter Wiring Upgrades
« Reply #9 on: Today at 04:19:21 PM »
Ok, I think I've found the best of both worlds for what I want to do.  A 1/2/Combine switch along with this blue sea systems charger which includes an integrated ACR:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7605/BatteryLink_Charger

This should allow me to isolate and rotate my batteries as desired and have them both charge from the motor or shore power.
1991 Sea Ranger 19
2012 Evinrude ETEC 130
2006 Yamaha 9.9

 

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