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Fish box inspection hatch help

Started by 4my3sons, September 24, 2020, 02:37:53 PM

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4my3sons

HI All, Forgive me if this has been addressed. One of my bilge pumps seems to not be working. Also, both are no longer attached to the hull, due to the delamination of the factory paint taking place in the hull. Time to get at them, see what is going on and re-adhere the bases.  I have seen pictures of larger inspection hatches being cut in. The plan is to 6x14 opening. I have a piece of 1/4 starboard cut to fill that space, traced from the edge of the plastic fish box tray. I'll secure starboard cover in place with six screws (I'll send pictures later of how I am doing this). My question is what do I do with the freshly cut edge of the fiberglass? Seal it with something or not? I would rather not cover in molding, as that would prevent the starboard from being flush.  :shrug9: Thanks for your suggestions. -Ken   
Ken

2005 21' Sea Ranger HT,  Yamaha F150

Diablo

For sealing anything porous I use CPES, clear penetrating epoxy sealant. There are many brands but the cans all have the same markings so I think it all comes from the same plant. It is a two part liquid with very low viscosity. It is not cheep but once you have it you will find all kinds of uses.
Realistically if you left it untreated it would not be a great concern.

https://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/

https://www.amazon.com/Smiths-Original-Clear-Penetrating-Sealer/dp/B071XB5RT3
'98 19SR  '15 E Tec 115, '10 Honda 8
'67. 23 Tollycraft, 283 Chevy
'04  14' Western, '15 Tohatsu 10
'87  37 Roughwater two 8.2 Detroit diesels SOLD
'88 17SR  '90 Johnson 90, Honda 8, SOLD

kriznol

I've used that CPES from Rot Doctor. It has a very low viscosity - almost like water - and is made to penetrate into rotten wood. I'd think it would get all over the place if you tried to use it on a vertical surface. I would probably just sand the edge of the fiberglass and call it good. If you do use epoxy you'll probably want something that's thickened so that it will stay where you want it.

Danno

You can get higher viscosity epoxy in small packets from West Marine and other boat supply shops.

2015 19' Sea Chaser (2019 to current)
1998 19' Sea Ranger (2003 to 2008)

Lures are designed to catch fishermen not fish.

4my3sons

#4
Thanks for the help. I just sanded the edge and pressed in a fine layer of 5200. I was going to set the small starboard bits with the threads behind the opening.  But found another way to skin this cat. 5200 adhere to SS. I flattened the barbs and used 5200 to set them in the back of the opening. It's curing now. I'll put the cover on and pray that the screw holes line up with the threads.
Ken

2005 21' Sea Ranger HT,  Yamaha F150

GregE

I'm having trouble 'seeing' where those are going.  Got a follow up pic of the install?

Also curious how the 5200 edge dressing holds up.
Greg
2005 SL 22 Honda 225 Kodak II
http://www.sagecreekforums.com/phpforum/index.php
Sold:Osprey 26 LC Kodak;  Arima SR 19 HT, Arima SE 16 WeeBait; SH 15 WeeBoat; SR 21 NoBait;  SL 22 ReBait

First Cabin

On my last 17' SeaRanger put a bead of 5200 on the bottom edges of the floor hatches.  Once cured, it held up great and acted as a cushion.

Reminds me that I need to do it to my SeaChaser!
First:  1982 15' SeaHunter, Yamaha 70 2-stroke, Yamaha F6
Second:  1987 17' SeaRanger, Merc 90 2-stroke, Yamaha F8
Current:  2002 17' SeaChaser, Yamaha F100, Yamaha T8

4my3sons

Here is the final. After checking the Rule bilge pumps, adding gutter mesh dics for strainers and re-steating them, i discovered the non-auto starboard one is not pumping much water from bilge.  Without hose it seemed to work fine. Maybe those hose has an obstruction or is kinked. Also, the port side auto one doesn't seem to work in the standby mode. But it pumps well in the on position. Oh well, at least I have room to get at these pumps now.
Ken

2005 21' Sea Ranger HT,  Yamaha F150

First Cabin

Quote from: 4my3sons on September 29, 2020, 06:27:58 AM
Here is the final. After checking the Rule bilge pumps, adding gutter mesh dics for strainers and re-steating them, i discovered the non-auto starboard one is not pumping much water from bilge.  Without hose it seemed to work fine. Maybe those hose has an obstruction or is kinked. Also, the port side auto one doesn't seem to work in the standby mode. But it pumps well in the on position. Oh well, at least I have room to get at these pumps now.

If you haven't had the fuel tank out of the boat, it's probably time to see what is going on.  The hoses are probably being crushed by the fuel tank.  Pulling the tank is a nasty job and always makes me curse the Arima design, but it has to be done from time to time to clean out the mess and check everything.
First:  1982 15' SeaHunter, Yamaha 70 2-stroke, Yamaha F6
Second:  1987 17' SeaRanger, Merc 90 2-stroke, Yamaha F8
Current:  2002 17' SeaChaser, Yamaha F100, Yamaha T8

4my3sons

Yep. I've done that removal once. Not fun.  I'm trying to avoid it. But, I agree and think that's in my future. My bait well pump is making funny noises too. I moor my boat in the harbor. Time to pull out. I could have growth on the intake screen that is restricting the flow to the bait well motor.
Ken

2005 21' Sea Ranger HT,  Yamaha F150

GregE

There is Always something....  Having fun yet?!?!   :wink:
Greg
2005 SL 22 Honda 225 Kodak II
http://www.sagecreekforums.com/phpforum/index.php
Sold:Osprey 26 LC Kodak;  Arima SR 19 HT, Arima SE 16 WeeBait; SH 15 WeeBoat; SR 21 NoBait;  SL 22 ReBait

4my3sons

Ken

2005 21' Sea Ranger HT,  Yamaha F150

agoodhi

Quote from: 4my3sons on September 29, 2020, 06:27:58 AM
Here is the final. After checking the Rule bilge pumps, adding gutter mesh dics for strainers and re-steating them, i discovered the non-auto starboard one is not pumping much water from bilge.  Without hose it seemed to work fine. Maybe those hose has an obstruction or is kinked. Also, the port side auto one doesn't seem to work in the standby mode. But it pumps well in the on position. Oh well, at least I have room to get at these pumps now.
Nice work! What tool did you use to cut the opening?  I worked on cleaning my bilge this past weekend (through screw-in port in fish box) and was able unclip and hang if off the outside while I cleaned the basket.
'04 SR 17 | '04 Yami F115 (Apollo XHS SS 13-3/8x15) | SeaStar HC5345 | '22 Suzuki DF9.9 | OTH Pilothouse | FishOn River/Sport Arch | Lenco 9x12 tabs | Garmin Stuff | Pacific Trailer

4my3sons

Quote from: agoodhi on September 30, 2020, 01:01:50 PM
Quote from: 4my3sons on September 29, 2020, 06:27:58 AM
Here is the final. After checking the Rule bilge pumps, adding gutter mesh dics for strainers and re-steating them, i discovered the non-auto starboard one is not pumping much water from bilge.  Without hose it seemed to work fine. Maybe those hose has an obstruction or is kinked. Also, the port side auto one doesn't seem to work in the standby mode. But it pumps well in the on position. Oh well, at least I have room to get at these pumps now.
Nice work! What tool did you use to cut the opening?  I worked on cleaning my bilge this past weekend (through screw-in port in fish box) and was able unclip and hang if off the outside while I cleaned the basket.
First drilled the 4 corners with a good sized drill bit (3/8 or 1/2 inch) to get the radius on the corners. Oscillating tool with a fine toothed blade did the trick. Jigsaw was too bulky. Shop-vac going while you're cutting is good too.
Ken

2005 21' Sea Ranger HT,  Yamaha F150