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downrigger mounting

Started by dogobat, August 18, 2020, 01:00:24 PM

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dogobat

Dear Arima Braintrust - was hoping to get my manual cannon downriggers mounted w/o drilling any holes........not gonna happen. The PO mounted a Cannon back on the port sponson aft of the bait box, and directly in the way of the trolling motor. My question is, do I need a doubler or backing plate to mount it the rail a few feet forward? Thanks for your guideance. (Trying to avoid any dopey "wish I hadn't done that" mistakes......)
Dogobat
La Conner, WA
Sea Hunter, 50 Johnson

flatwater

I have Scotty downriggers on homemade gimbal mounts that fit into the 30 degree angled aft rod holders. I had intended to mount them more permanently down the line, but the gimbal mounts are really easy to remove for storage. Not having to drill additional holes was a bonus.

Only downside was the first time I used them in the original plastic rod holders one cracked trying to stop a 15lb. weight on the drop. I've since replaced the original plastic with super-sturdy stainless + backing plate that makes the downriggers feel rock solid. I also faced the challenge of the kicker tiller and port downrigger fighting for space, so I got tie rod between kicker and main to troll from the helm.

'89 Sea Sprinter, 60hp Yamaha 2-stroke, Tohatsu 8hp kicker

dogobat

Why I love this group. Main has ez steer and tie rod installed, I just need the piece for the trolling motor. Maybe - MAYBE - I can put the drill away.......also explains how the previous owner dealt with the downrigger where it is....... :mememe:       any north Puget Sound folks know of an EZ steer retailer maybe Lynnwood north?
Dogobat
La Conner, WA
Sea Hunter, 50 Johnson

Bigfish1!

Dogobat,
     My port downrigger is also mounted directly in front of my kicker.  Mine are Scotty's and I am not familiar with the Cannon mount.  I purchased the Scotty rail mount base and installed it per the directions about the middle of the hand rail.  All looked good but when I used it I found that it put quite a bit of torque on the rail.  I checked the screws holding the rail and found they are really fairly small screws and if I was going to continue to use the rail mount the screws mounting the rail would need to be substantially beefed up.  (the wood under the rail appears to be a 2x4 laid into the glass) plenty strong to mount most anything if the right equipment is used.
     After all of that I found that my most consistent trolling control and speed comes when I use the big motor, (90 Yamaha) so the location of the downrigger mount while a little inconvenient is workable, and keeps my rails clean for fishing and access.  Good Fishing. BF1.

headduck

Fisheries supply in seattle.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/

Great place...dont bring the significant other...they will be bored and try to stop the spending spree.

What they don't have in stock they can order...they know stuff too.

My DR mounted on the top of the gunnel with backing plate. Holes drilled.
2003 19' Sea Ranger Skip Top 2015 Mercury 115 2012 Evinrude 9.8

1987 17' Sea Ranger 90 Honda (sold)

straiteagle

Quote from: dogobat on August 18, 2020, 01:00:24 PM
Dear Arima Braintrust - was hoping to get my manual cannon downriggers mounted w/o drilling any holes........not gonna happen. The PO mounted a Cannon back on the port sponson aft of the bait box, and directly in the way of the trolling motor. My question is, do I need a doubler or backing plate to mount it the rail a few feet forward? Thanks for your guideance. (Trying to avoid any dopey "wish I hadn't done that" mistakes......)

Since you have manual Cannon you are most likely not using very heavy downrigger balls.  Therefore I would consider using the Cannon gimbal mount that fits into the gunner rod holder.  You can usually find these on Ebay at good prices vs. new. 
https://cannon.factoryoutletstore.com/Category/CategoryListNoCache.aspx?category_id=0&autocomplete=true&search_term=Cannon%20Gimbal%20Mount

Here's the easy steer site for parts: https://marinetechproducts.com/shop-for-parts#!/EZ-Steer/c/237141/offset=0&sort=normal
2005 Sea Legend, 200HP Suzuki,15HP EFI Suzuki

straiteagle

Last time I was in this place in Everett, they had a large supply of EZ steer parts, but that was 2 years ago.

http://www.perform-marine.com/
2005 Sea Legend, 200HP Suzuki,15HP EFI Suzuki

Inlander

I used a 1.5" x 1.5" x .125" Al angle cut to the profile of my Scotty base plate.  That 1.5" extension is a good overhang for the base which leaves enough room to anchor on the outboard side.  I understand that a Cannon DR can be mounted on top of the Scotty base/swivel base, but I use Scottys..  You can see from the pic that I had to use a hole saw to mount my power plug.  Drilling holes in your gunnels will not affect the structural integrity.

dogobat

got 'er done - did the starbord side, will add one to the port side next, wanted a little time in the tiller before I place the second one hope to drag some gear tomorrow
Dogobat
La Conner, WA
Sea Hunter, 50 Johnson

dogobat

initial testing reveals sufficient strength TO SURVIVE LOSING A DOWNRIGGER BALL due to not watching the depth while messing around with tackle........
Dogobat
La Conner, WA
Sea Hunter, 50 Johnson

headduck

That's rigorous testing...in real world conditions.  :cha:
2003 19' Sea Ranger Skip Top 2015 Mercury 115 2012 Evinrude 9.8

1987 17' Sea Ranger 90 Honda (sold)

Rck18

Quote from: dogobat on September 05, 2020, 10:36:15 AM
initial testing reveals sufficient strength TO SURVIVE LOSING A DOWNRIGGER BALL due to not watching the depth while messing around with tackle........

I've been using the rubber snubbers. I bang the bottom a lot. I've lost one ball so far when the snubber broke. Not bad for 60 hours of trolling.
1988 17' Sea Ranger, 2023 F90, 2014 9.9

Markshoreline

I was able to mount my Scotty bases through the gunwales through bolted with a plywood plate beneath.  The starboard is about a foot forward of the sponson, the port is a bit further forward to allow access to the kicker tiller.
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9