EZ Loader Roller Side Guides?

[Jeff]

My Chaser's EZ Loader doesn't have the roller side guides or the keel roller that my Sprinter had.  Today's wind made it tough to center properly.  Can anyone advise if installing some side guides will be sufficient, or if I also should use keel rollers?

[Markshoreline]

I have a bunk trailer and when I began using a ramp that doesn't have a dock I soon realized the need for side rails.  The tidal currents, wind and waves made loading a frustrating process and the rails solved all of that.  The biggest problem had been loading back on the trailer in a stiff wind which caused the boat's rear to drift sideways requiring a relaunch in order to recover it.

[Fisherdv]

I would recommend the bunk style load guides. Boat goes on straight every time. Also, a quick tip, put a little 3M 4200 on the screw threads that go into the wood bunks. Keeps the screws from getting loose and also keeps water out of the wood, especially on the lower hull bunks.

[Jeff]

I'd really like some full-length bunk side guides, but the step platforms take up the necessary mounting space ahead of the fenders.  Instead I'm looking at either shorter bunks or the roller guides.  I imagine they both accomplish the same goal?  Is there any benefit to one vs. the other?

Here's what I'm considering:

[Ko Ho]

I've only used roller trailers over the last 25 years and I've never had side guides. The key is to not back so far into the water that you're "floating" the boat onto the trailer. Just submerge the rear two rollers, and the rest of the rollers which are high and dry will center the boat as you winch it up.

[Ko Ho]

BTW, your rear rollers look really close together. Don't know if that could be part of the problem.

[AP]

BTW, your rear rollers look really close together.

I agree.  Also, be sure you aren't backing too far into the water.  Within reason, the more strap/rope you crank, the straighter the boat will be.

[davidsea]

         I agree with KoHo and AP - your rear rollers are way too close together.  The aft center part of the hull is nearly flat, and wont give much of any centering action.  I would move both rear roller brackets out at least 6" each, maybe more, and try it again.  I really like side bunks for loading in difficult conditions.  I had a bad experience with side roller guides, and won't use them again.  Even if you have to use the single mount short bunks, still a better solution than rollers.  m2c

[rclark4179]

I have the smallish bunk style (appx 24") on my EZ Loader roller type trailer for my 17' Chaser. I was a little dubious about them at first but they have worked out perfectly. Fairly cheap to boot.

[headduck]

My aft rollers aren't much wider. I have the bolt on roller rails shown above and a keel roller.

It seems that as long as I winch it as suggested above with keel roller dry, it centers pretty well.

I backed in too far for a bit of time and often had a sloppy loading and that would frequently need to be reset.

[Jeff]

Thanks for the tips.  I'll check on the spacing of the rear rollers, but I think the photo makes them look closer together than they are.

It has a ridiculously short trailer tongue, so not backing as far in will be a benefit too.

[Hydroman]

        I agree with KoHo and AP - your rear rollers are way too close together.  The aft center part of the hull is nearly flat, and wont give much of any centering action.  I would move both rear roller brackets out at least 6" each, maybe more, and try it again.  I really like side bunks for loading in difficult conditions.  I had a bad experience with side roller guides, and won't use them again.  Even if you have to use the single mount short bunks, still a better solution than rollers.  m2c

If you decide to move the roller further apart, I would recommend that you install a center roller on the rear cross member of the trailer.  Widening the space between the rollers will lower the boat on the trailer reducing the existing clearance between the keel and the cross member.

Jim

[Jeff]

Thanks Jim!

[Pdxmgunner]

I feel your pain! I have the same issue.  And the same trailer it looks like.  I have found that if I back down until I get the second from the last roller in the water, I can then hook the bow eye and winch her up right on track. It takes more work on the crank but it lines up and wind/current are less of a problem for me.. I have found when I back up and put the boat as close to the dock as I possibly can it makes those last minute adjustments of lining everything up a lot easier. 

I am usually solo so I know exactly what you mean.  I did run it up on the trailer last week which worked fine but I had my uncle to attach the bow eye and  still had to back the trailer into the water and readjust for alignment. 

That is my system but I am definitely interested if you find a good side roller solution.

[Yachter Yat]

   I find roller trailers to be the best at lining-up a hull when loading. Start by spreading those rear rollers, as others have suggested.  The "inside" rollers (meaning the ones closest to the center of the trailer)  should be just "outside" the steps at the bottom rear of your hull.  That may not be a very good explanation of it.  I've never taken a picture of mine, but perhaps someone out there has....and knows what I'm talking about. 


Yat

[Chief of the Boat]

Jeff,
I had the same problem when I had my 1511 SE on a newer than yours EZ-Loader roller with 16 rollers. If it was my project I would move the rear quad rollers outboard so the boat will sit lower and come real close to the fenders.  I would install this on the cross-member to prevent keel rash https://www.westmarine.com/buy/c-e-smith--shipshape-crossmember-pad--5320916?recordNum=50.  Have you ever replaced the 4 forward to aft threaded rods that hold the rollers?  I had one break on my Tiderunner and it was a mess. 

[Yachter Yat]

   Funny you say that Chief.  My boat keel hits the rear crossmember as well, but only when launching.....not retrieving.  I keep a thick bath towel wrapped and taped in place around the center of that crossmember in order to prevent damage to my hull.  It only touches momemtarily, and I launch the boat slowly so that it touches it as gently as possible.  Luckily, no damage so far. 

   Unfortunately, this is the downside of having those rollers spread far apart enough so as to be able to contact the hull correctly on these boats.  I suppose the answer could be to install a keel roller down there.  That said, I wouldn't be comfortable unless it was "very wide".   


Yat

[Pdxmgunner]

Sorry for my loading tangent but that's my solution..

Here is my setup.

The auto straps I put on the rear have been $$.

[Fisherdv]

Sorry for my loading tangent but that's my solution..

Here is my setup.

The auto straps I put on the rear have been $$.

What kind of straps are those?

[Pdxmgunner]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P3IAYSC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They bolt to the the rear end of the trailer and ratchet down and auto retract. Replacing the loose straps.

[Pdxmgunner]

Jeff is your tongue a folding one?

[Pdxmgunner]

I've only used roller trailers over the last 25 years and I've never had side guides. The key is to not back so far into the water that you're "floating" the boat onto the trailer. Just submerge the rear two rollers, and the rest of the rollers which are high and dry will center the boat as you winch it up.

This is how I setup, and two rollers I also found was the sweet spot.

[ohmytodd]

@jeff I added bunk guides and it made a world of difference. Long or short, anything will help, I don't know how the PO ever got the boat centered on that low profile trailer without them. I went with the extreme max brand to match the trailer stylings: https://www.extrememax.com/product-p/3005.2196.htm

@gunner: A few dozen dips in the salt and those reese straps may corrode and seize from the inside, if/when you have to replace them look for stainless. If you're sticking to the rivers you should be fine for a while, just make sure you hit them with some soap when you wash the boat down. But yes, they're awesome! I carry my old manual straps in the truck just in case.

[Pdxmgunner]

Thanks, I appreciate it. Redundancy!  Limited at 3 arch rocks btw.

[Hunter]

I'd really like some full-length bunk side guides, but the step platforms take up the necessary mounting space ahead of the fenders.  Instead I'm looking at either shorter bunks or the roller guides.  I imagine they both accomplish the same goal?  Is there any benefit to one vs. the other?

Here's what I'm considering:

Jeff..... as you can see in this pic, I used the shorter 2 ft bunk guides on our 22 Sea Legend and they worked perfectly for centering the boat on the trailer every time.   Probably not nearly as good as the higher longer bunk guides in in a high wind or no dock scenario..... but for centering the boat on the trailer they worked perfectly.