Author Topic: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery  (Read 799 times)

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Offline SoCalAngler

Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« on: February 08, 2020, 09:56:08 AM »
The OEM wiring is pretty simple in my SS...running lights, anchor light, and bilge pump.

My Plan (keeping system plain, simple, and safe):

1.  I will be adding a Blue Seas fused switch panel (4 switch) for running/anchor light; bilge pump (on-off-auto); deck lights, and bait pump (for future bait tank).

2.  I will be adding a 2nd 12V battery (one port one stbd) and a Perko batty switch near stbd battery.

3.  Adding a negative post near stbd battery

4.  Adding a dual buss bar near switch panel under dash (pos and neg sides to connect allaccessories here)

5.  Replacing bilge pump with new Rule 800 (model 20SA)



NOTE:  All wire is tinned marine from Greggs wire

-Run 10 ga duplex from Perko switch to a dual buss bar (small blue seas buss bar that has one side + and one side - that will be mounted under dash near switch panel)  Positive side of duplex from battery switch common to buss bar and negative side from negative battery post to neagtive side of buss bar)

-Runs 12 ga duplex from new bilge pump to switch panel

-Run 14 ga duplex from rear stern light to switch panel

-Run 14 gauge from bow light to switch panel

-Run 12 ga duplex from rear transom mounted bait pump to switch panel
Negative post near stbd battery which will receive neg leads from batteries and rune a negative lead from post to dist panel (noted above)

Any advice with this plan....tips, suggestions, etc?
Is a fuse between 10 gauge positive lead (between battery switch and dual buss bar) needed?

Thanks!

Pics of parts......


1988 Arima Sea Sprinter; '98 Honda BF50hp
1988 EZ Loader Galvanized Roller Trailer
Located in......?

Offline SoCalAngler

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #1 on: February 08, 2020, 09:58:49 AM »
and the switch panel.....

1988 Arima Sea Sprinter; '98 Honda BF50hp
1988 EZ Loader Galvanized Roller Trailer
Located in......?

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2020, 10:22:44 AM »
The run from the Perko switch up to the helm should be fused or have a circuit breaker as close as possible to the Perko switch, within 7”. The 10ga wire proposed seems too light for the helm wire run. I would suggest minimum 8ga, or maybe even 6ga depending on you total power demands. I don’t think duplex comes in those gauges so you may have to run single wire. Would also be a good idea to run a Blue Seas fuse panel up in the helm to connect other accessories like 12V receptacle, or add-ons etc.

I would also recommend running the bilge pump and VHF radio directly to the battery with their own inline fuse. (Fuse as close to battery as possible).
« Last Edit: February 08, 2020, 07:08:29 PM by Fisherdv »
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2020, 10:31:17 AM »
Here is my simple setup. I have a circuit breaker that protects the wire run up to the helm, a second circuit breaker that protects the small 4-fuse panel in back on the same board, and a negative buss bar. 2 batteries (one on each side) and a simple 1,2, 1+2 battery switch.

2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

Offline davidsea

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2020, 09:33:15 PM »
   You might consider how to protect the battery leads going from port to starboard, before they get across the boat to the battery switch and grounding stud.  I ran mine in a  1 1/4" ABS pipe mounted to the inside of the transom, above/behind the fuel tank, eliminating the chance of their being damaged or shorted back where you can't see them.  The (+) cable needs to be protected at or very close to the portside battery,  with a circuit breaker or fuse large enough to take the motor starting current, in the event you have to start the motor with that battery.
« Last Edit: February 08, 2020, 09:38:30 PM by davidsea »
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Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #5 on: February 08, 2020, 09:37:41 PM »
I used Blue Seas MRBF (marine rated battery fuse) 175A directly on my battery posts for both batteries.
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

Online DevMah

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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #6 on: February 09, 2020, 11:09:40 AM »
The run from the Perko switch up to the helm should be fused or have a circuit breaker as close as possible to the Perko switch, within 7”. The 10ga wire proposed seems too light for the helm wire run. I would suggest minimum 8ga, or maybe even 6ga depending on you total power demands. I don’t think duplex comes in those gauges so you may have to run single wire. Would also be a good idea to run a Blue Seas fuse panel up in the helm to connect other accessories like 12V receptacle, or add-ons etc.

I would also recommend running the bilge pump and VHF radio directly to the battery with their own inline fuse. (Fuse as close to battery as possible).



I agree with Fisher the line from either the switch to the helm  or the battery feeding the switch must be fused to protect the 10 ga run. You need to calculate the load you are running then chose the appropriate wire size for your main run. All of you switched accessories must be fused to their specifications and the wire size be appropriate to handle the current.

No comment on fusing the bilge or the VHF to the rear batter ...However it is preferred to have them off the rear battery fused ....


Dev
« Last Edit: February 09, 2020, 11:17:57 AM by DevMah »
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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #7 on: February 09, 2020, 11:16:15 AM »
I used Blue Seas MRBF (marine rated battery fuse) 175A directly on my battery posts for both batteries.


I have the same directly off the battery both  post positive poles, I have gone to 200A fuse on each.

2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Online Danno

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #8 on: February 09, 2020, 11:19:15 AM »
I used Blue Seas MRBF (marine rated battery fuse) 175A directly on my battery posts for both batteries.


I have the same directly off the battery both  post positive poles, I have gone to 200A fuse on each.


How easy are the Blue Seas MRBF to change out if you blow one?
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1998 19' Sea Ranger (2003 to 2008)

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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #9 on: February 09, 2020, 11:29:12 AM »
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Online croaker stroker

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #10 on: February 09, 2020, 11:43:08 AM »
I used Blue Seas MRBF (marine rated battery fuse) 175A directly on my battery posts for both batteries.


I have the same directly off the battery both  post positive poles, I have gone to 200A fuse on each.

How easy are the Blue Seas MRBF to change out if you blow one?

Don’t buy them. I have a couple you can have. You just have to scrape off the corrosion. They are terrible. They corrode within a year. I think the fuse may not be designed for marine use ? ....or bi-metal reaction ?

....or buy the ones like Davidsea pictured. ??

1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

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Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #11 on: February 09, 2020, 11:48:58 AM »
Hmmm, that’s strange that it corroded so quickly. I mean, it is called a “marine” rated battery fuse (MRBF) 🤔 It actually doesn’t look too bad. Maybe some corrosion inhibitors would help when installing new.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2020, 11:52:33 AM by Fisherdv »
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #12 on: February 09, 2020, 12:02:02 PM »
Strange. As well never seen one that bad, are you using some dielectric grease when you assemble?

I had mine on now since 2015...However I check and clean my connections yearly.


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #13 on: February 09, 2020, 12:03:41 PM »
I mentioned having the bilge pump hooked directly to the battery (fused), so the automatic part of the bilge pump is still active even when the main battery switch is turned off. Especially needed if mooring your boat or extended storage in the rain.
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

Online croaker stroker

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #14 on: February 09, 2020, 12:04:39 PM »
I do use dielectric grease...and I found this while doing the battery connection cleaning and re-coating.

I thought it was made from stainless steel. But it corroded under a stainless steel washer. The washer did not corrode. It also corroded where contacted the copper bar that connects to the battery terminal.

These were mounted on top of the battery where gassing would be happening while charging. (Lead acid type) I have a Marinco charger/maintainer connected which may have contributed to the problem because it is on all the time.

« Last Edit: February 09, 2020, 12:09:02 PM by Croaker Stroker »
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #15 on: February 09, 2020, 02:46:09 PM »
I do use dielectric grease...and I found this while doing the battery connection cleaning and re-coating.

I thought it was made from stainless steel. But it corroded under a stainless steel washer. The washer did not corrode. It also corroded where contacted the copper bar that connects to the battery terminal.

These were mounted on top of the battery where gassing would be happening while charging. (Lead acid type) I have a Marinco charger/maintainer connected which may have contributed to the problem because it is on all the time.

Weird as your setup is similar to mine, did you contact blue seas as they stand behind their products?
If that is a issue for you then a 200A breaker would do the trick also.

I had my fuse on sine 2015 and they don’t even look close to the ones you posted...


Dev
« Last Edit: February 09, 2020, 02:49:36 PM by DevMah »
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Online croaker stroker

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2020, 10:08:58 PM »

The brand new ones on Amazon look corroded....

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5183-Terminal/dp/B0017SJOH4?pf_rd_p=700385e0-19d0-4b4c-89bf-06e23d6f1594&pd_rd_wg=0eT6z&pf_rd_r=T52XHPDEZ88896QNB692&ref_=pd_gw_cr_simh&pd_rd_w=etNM1&pd_rd_r=9704f6d8-76d9-47db-8ced-702fa00f0c77

This is not mine. It is a photo of the Amazon new one. Was your contact surface shiny and new, or was it dull like this one...
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

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Online DevMah

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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #17 on: February 10, 2020, 12:16:25 PM »
Dull like the picture

Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Offline SoCalAngler

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #18 on: February 13, 2020, 06:47:25 PM »
I checked the Blue Seas chart for 10 gauge as my main wire from battery selector switch to main panel.

10 gauge is good for 30 amps at 30' at 10% voltage drop (non critical stuff)
10 gauge is good for 15 amps at 20' at 3% voltage drop (critical stuff)

From switch to panel is approximately 20' (combined to and from)

Since engine starter is largest amp draw, and I don't believe it qualifies as critical.....

does 10 gauge appear to be correct gauge wire?

My electrical items:

Engine starter
Fish Finder/GPS
LED running lights
LED cockpit lights
Bait pump
Bilge pump
VHF
1988 Arima Sea Sprinter; '98 Honda BF50hp
1988 EZ Loader Galvanized Roller Trailer
Located in......?

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #19 on: February 13, 2020, 07:44:17 PM »
10ga would be borderline IMO. I would suggest no less than 8ga for the run to the helm panel, fused according to your actual accessory draw. If you are going through the trouble of running the wire, go with the heavier gauge now incase you add on additional accessories in the future.
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #20 on: February 13, 2020, 08:46:29 PM »
Please use the below to calculate your load amps then you can find your wire size.
What do you mean by engine starter... do you mean the line to the engine?

Dev
« Last Edit: February 13, 2020, 08:51:30 PM by DevMah »
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #21 on: February 13, 2020, 09:46:07 PM »
Use this chart as a reference for your total actual amp draw. It’s unlikely that everything will be on or run at the same time, but you should account for it.

With the items you currently have listed you are right about 15A already, with no room for expansion with 10ga wire.

« Last Edit: February 13, 2020, 09:52:50 PM by Fisherdv »
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

Offline SoCalAngler

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #22 on: February 14, 2020, 02:06:02 PM »
Thanks for all the suggestions!  I can appreciate some opf the pics posted....very clean installs.  I  may use a cutting board and have it slide in/out....or just mount items to fiberglass liner inside battery compartment area.

After speaking with tech reps at Blue Seas......

the 10 gauge main feed is safe and appropriate considering exact amp draws.......

Bait pump (1.9amps)
Running lights (LED) 1 amp
Deck lights (LED) 1 amp
Bilge Pump (3.4 amps)

I will run a 30amp Blue Seas series 285 circuity breaker between common on battery switch and main distribution panel

Question:

Is it preferred to connect bilge pump directly to battery or to switch panel?

My Rule is the type that turns on for less than a second every 2.5 minutes to check for water (it uses 0.2 amps per day) when left on.  If I don't connect to switch panel I was going to connect bilge pump directly to battery #2 using a push-pull switch near battery.  When I leave boat in marina I can set this switch to on position and still leave battery selector switch to off.

Thoughts?
1988 Arima Sea Sprinter; '98 Honda BF50hp
1988 EZ Loader Galvanized Roller Trailer
Located in......?

Offline Fisherdv

Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #23 on: February 14, 2020, 02:50:51 PM »
If you are going to run 10ga wire, which at your determined length run, is good for up to 15A, I wouldn’t run a 30A circuit breaker. That is double what that 10ga wire can handle. The purpose of that circuit breaker from the switch is to protect that wire from overheating. You also didn’t figure in the FF/GPS and your VHF radio, which can draw 7A while transmitting, in your last post.

As far as the bilge pump, I prefer to run an automatic bilge pump that will only come on when water is detected/present. The ones that cycle every few minutes can run down your battery if moored for extended periods. The point of running the auto bilge pump straight to the battery (fused), is so the pump will remain active when you turn of your battery switch (which most of us do while stored) to prevent parasitic current draw.
« Last Edit: February 14, 2020, 02:54:31 PM by Fisherdv »
2018 Sea Chaser 16, Honda 60HP

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Re: Rewiring and adding a 2nd battery
« Reply #24 on: February 14, 2020, 02:53:10 PM »
Thanks for all the suggestions!  I can appreciate some opf the pics posted....very clean installs.  I  may use a cutting board and have it slide in/out....or just mount items to fiberglass liner inside battery compartment area.

After speaking with tech reps at Blue Seas......

the 10 gauge main feed is safe and appropriate considering exact amp draws.......

Bait pump (1.9amps)
Running lights (LED) 1 amp
Deck lights (LED) 1 amp
Bilge Pump (3.4 amps)

I will run a 30amp Blue Seas series 285 circuity breaker between common on battery switch and main distribution panel

Question:

Is it preferred to connect bilge pump directly to battery or to switch panel?

My Rule is the type that turns on for less than a second every 2.5 minutes to check for water (it uses 0.2 amps per day) when left on.  If I don't connect to switch panel I was going to connect bilge pump directly to battery #2 using a push-pull switch near battery.  When I leave boat in marina I can set this switch to on position and still leave battery selector switch to off.

Thoughts?


SoCal

Thats a normal set up for the bilge not to be on the main switch, but off the battery directly.

Just be fore warned I have replaced quite a few of the water sensing type rule pumps for not turning on with float switch types.

Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger  (Tight lines)
2015 Yamaha F150
2012 Mercury 9.9 Bigfoot 4 blade
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

 

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