Arima 1511 Repower.

[lloyds]

making adjustments with tabs and engine in all sorts of combinations and best I could see was 5400.  The "shop kids" told the  sales guy, who is really pretty good, that the 14 pitch was bumping up against 6200 so they changed to a 15.  Should have left well enough alone. 

Going up Tuesday morning and getting the 14 and will give it a try.  Should be like a different motor then.  One thing that was a little troubling was after making a long run at speed and going down to idle it really vibrated at minimum rpm, in gear.  Will have to look into that.  They offered to take it into the shop but that would entail an hours drive on I-5. 

[Fisherdv]

My Honda 60 also vibrates at idle, and in gear while trolling. Smooths out at idle in neutral. I think it's just the nature of the amount of cylinders they have, 3 cylinders vs 4. The prop style/material is also a factor. Sounds like the other 14 prop is the one. 5400 best rpm is way to low, especially in ocean swells :twocents:

[Yachter Yat]

    At the risk of being overly critical, I don't understand how a marine dealer could possibly believe such an RPM result can be correct.  Like Fisher said, 5400 is too low.  If 5400 max is all you were getting with that 15 in. prop, then that motor was working way too hard.  Keep in mind, your outboard, when pushing that boat, is like your car constantly climbing a fairly steep hill.  In that sense, over propping is somewhat akin to asking your vehicle to climb that hill in overdrive.  I can only imagine the long term effect on that motor under those conditions.   So, in a way, you can look at your prop like a transmission.  As I've said many times; less pitch is like downshifting. 


   As far as vibration is concerned:  From my experience, many outboards vibrate at very low idle.......and yes, as Fisher suggested, the fewer cylinders the more likely you'll experience this.  Mine has (what I'd call) a very, very slight vibration at slow idle as well. It seems more noticeable on initial start-up; when the motor is cold.  After running for a time that seems to diminish.  This is just speculation, but it may be that mine is less noticeable because of the high octane fuel I use.  I suppose the obvious question here would be to know what your burning in terms of octane.  Also, be as faithful as possible to maintaining that fuel filter.  If you want to make your outboard start acting "nasty", feed it contaminated fuel. 


    Pardon me, but as a sidebar, there's something else I wanted to mention:  Never being one to be totally satisfied with "perfection", I've always dreamed of the day I'd wake-up to find Honda (or perhaps Yamaha) introduced a new 60 degree V4-60/70 HP motor.  I always felt this would be a class of motor with a number of advantages; not the least of which (as mentioned) would be the potential for smoother operation at low RPM's.   Another would be that a lower profile would result in a lower center of gravity.  I'm sure there are many more important advantages relating to the performance, of such a motor, that could be contemplated.  Don't get me wrong, this doesn't keep me up a night (like squaring-off Arima's transom ).......I just think about it once in a while. :biggrin:

Yat

[amazing grace]

Just curious guy's why you would opt for the smaller gear case Honda especially when putting it on an Arima. Price difference could not of been, what maybe $500?
Seems like a no brainer.

Isn't the Yamaha F70 a four cylinder?

[Fisherdv]

Just curious guy's why you would opt for the smaller gear case Honda especially when putting it on an Arima. Price difference could not of been, what maybe $500?
Seems like a no brainer.

Isn't the Yamaha F70 a four cylinder?

I have the Honda BFP60, with the larger gearcase

[J Chaser]

Yes, the F70 is 4 cylinder.

J.

[Fisherdv]

Yes, the F70 is 4 cylinder.

J.

J, do you get any vibration while trolling at idle speeds?

[J Chaser]

Zero vibration. I troll with it all the time. More than once I have tried to start it when it was already running. 

J.

[First Cabin]

My Honda 60 also vibrates at idle, and in gear while trolling. Smooths out at idle in neutral. I think it's just the nature of the amount of cylinders they have, 3 cylinders vs 4. The prop style/material is also a factor. Sounds like the other 14 prop is the one. 5400 best rpm is way to low, especially in ocean swells :twocents:

When my Yamaha F100 is trimmed all the way down to where it sits metal on metal, I feel the vibration of it in the boat.  If I trim it up just a fraction of an inch much of the vibration goes away.  Not sure if that would help you, but maybe?

[Yachter Yat]

   The Honda 60 comes with the option of two gearcase ratios:  A 2.07:1 and 2.33:1; respectively and commonly know as the "smaller" and the "larger" gearcase........... the latter of which comes standard on the Honda 75/90 motors and is similar (in ratio at least) to the Yamaha 70 gearcase.  In my particular situation, cost wasn't really the issue with respect to my decision to go with the 2.07 gearing.  Rather, the two main reasons for my going this way was simply because of the size and weight of my 16 SC.  Since this boat is only 16 feet and I'm usually lightly loaded, I didn't see the need to have to "downshift" with this lower gearing.  On the other hand, if I were in the habit of consistently fishing with a couple of heavy dudes and loaded with a substantial amount of additional gear, I would have given that lower gearing some serious consideration and probably gone that way.  I must say, the advantage of the "larger" gearcase is that it enables the selection of a fairly wide variety of (what we could call) "pusher props"........including some 4 bladers that would serve to deal with the additional weight issue.  That said, the motor I chose seems to be an excellent fit for this boat and, so far, I've been quite satisfied with the overall performance.  In fact, if forced to start over, I would actually make the same choice.

   Keep in mind; this is a 16 "Sea Chaser" we're talking about.  That said, it wouldn't take much for me to rethink this gearcase choice.  I've thought about this plenty and can say this:  If I were pushing a 16 "Sea Explorer", I'd probably opt for the 2.33:1 gearcase.  The reason is simply that the Explorer is a bit heavier in the nose and (from my way of thinking) has the potential for being loaded a little more heavily.   I'd find it very tempting to stock-it-up for some overnight trips and would want to be sure that motor wouldn't have to overwork.   My :twocents:

Yat

[lloyds]

I made the choice because it was the last 60 they had and got a decent deal.  I always try to go light but sometimes take the wife.  We all know where that ends up.

[lloyds]

So I had the honda 60 out on the ocean yesterday with the new prop.  Still kind of a dog out of the hole but a whole lot better.  Can now do 6200 and about 32 mph.  But the big news is I fished for about 4 hours and even did a couple wide open runs on flat water up the bay and burned less than 2 gallons of fuel.  Trolled out about 4 miles and back.  Those engines are extremely efficient fuelwise.   And the vibration at troll wasn't really all that bad.

[Fisherdv]

32 mph is good as far as top end. I get about 30 mph with my BFP60. The larger gearcase may have a bit more hole shot but it's a trade off for top end speed. (The larger gearcase produces more drag in the water). And yes, these Honda's are great on fuel economy

[Fisherdv]

I would be curious to know how many seconds it takes you to get on plane from idle, in gear, loaded lightly.

[lloyds]

I'll time it next time out which will be Monday but a guess is 5 seconds or so.

[lloyds]

Checked out getting up on plane.  If it is just me and normal fishing stuff, between 4 and 5 seconds.  With my really large fishing friend forever.