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Side Panel and Patching King Starboard Question

Started by Mooch, April 16, 2018, 12:04:02 AM

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Mooch

I have a 2006 21SR with saddle tanks, which according to previous owner have never been used.  I'd like to use them this summer for some extended trips, but before I run fuel through them I do have some issues I'd like to address.  You can see from the 4 small screw holes where the previous owner had attached AFI folding cup holders to the side panels using 1/2 screws.  Using rear illumination, it appears that the holes did not penetrate the King Starboard panel on the starboard side, but did penetrate the port side panel.  Obviously my concern is whether the saddle tank was also penetrated by screws or perhaps a pilot drill.  My questions are:
1.  Can the side panel be easily removed by simply removing the set of screws running along the lower edge of the panel?  Or are there there hidden screws on top edge that need to be removed as well? 
2.  What's the best way to patch/fill the 4 small holes in the King Starboard?
3.  Fuel lines, fill ports and tank vents all look good, are there any other issues or concerns I should consider before running fuel thru them given age and lack of use?
4.  What's the downside to installing a shut-off valve or a standard check valve fitting before each saddle tank enters the 4-way fuel switch, just in case I want to drain or clean them out for storage?  I've never been a fan of running a tank completely dry through my engines.

Thanks in advance.


Matt. 8:27    The men were amazed and asked, "What kind of man is this? Even the winds and the waves obey him!"

Diablo

You can remove the side panels Ive done it.
As to patching holes I melted starboard by heating it and dabbing on the holes then scrap off excess with a razor blade. That came out ok. You could also just fill with 4200 or 5200. I know, nothing sticks to starboard. Well that's not entirely true. I've had a block of starboard attached to the underside of my bait table for years with only 5200 holding it.
It would be nice if you could pressure test the tanks before putting into use.  :twocents:
'98 19SR  '15 E Tec 115, '10 Honda 8
'67. 23 Tollycraft, 283 Chevy
'04  14' Western, '15 Tohatsu 10
'87  37 Roughwater two 8.2 Detroit diesels SOLD
'88 17SR  '90 Johnson 90, Honda 8, SOLD

La-Z-Buoy

Richard

2001 21' Sea Ranger HT
2017 DF 140 Suzuki, Honda 8

StreamFixer

As Richard (La-Z-Boy) notes,  the plastic caps cover screws that are holding your panel in place.  In older boats, the screws were set behind a trim strip that was inserted into a router groove (PITA to put back together when the trim is cold).  I would have much preferred the caps but am too cheap to buy new starboard.

In a 2006, you fuel line should be fine.  In older boars (about 1995 and older) fuel lines may not have been constructed of materials that would hold up under ethanol blended fuel.  2006 you should be safe.

How you valve your fuel lines is often a matter of personal taste..  Do what makes you happy/comfortable.

Ed (Diablo) has given about as good advice on 'patching' starboard as you are likely to find.  As he noted, literally nothing will 'stick' to starboard (aka HDPE + High Density PolyEthylene).  The only way to make it stick is to 'weld' (melt) it together.

StreamFixer
'01 Hewes Sportsman 18
'14 Yamaha 90
'01 T8 w/ solas 4 blade
'19 Minn Kota 80# (Alterra)
'97 19SC w/ Salt Boss Top


"By the grace of God we travel upon the rivers and sea..
They, like He, are mightier than me."  Mike Jesperson aka 'Nalu

steeler

I've patched several holes in my starboard. One was about 2x1".  Cut a plug slightly larger that the hole and literally pound it into the hole.  The heat generated from the hammering and tight fit literally bonded.  Five years and holding.  For screw holes I cut a plug, ram it in and then using a wood burning tool just nip off the access.  You will still likely notice the patch but it will be water tight
The best time to go fishing is when its raining and when it ain't

beancounter

I'd patch it with another drink holder myself. Here's hoping they used short screws on that sucker. Probably did.

Speedbump

Hey Mooch.  Here are my $.02:

1.  Can the side panel be easily removed by simply removing the set of screws running along the lower edge of the panel?  Or are there there hidden screws on top edge that need to be removed as well? 

Yes, easily removed with the 5 bottom screws, and usually one in the top forward corner.  I'd also consider removing the upper shelf.  There are 5 screws on the inboard and 2 on the outboard side...you need a stubby Phillips for the outboard.

2.  What's the best way to patch/fill the 4 small holes in the King Starboard?

Put another cup holder in there, or 3M 5200

3.  Fuel lines, fill ports and tank vents all look good, are there any other issues or concerns I should consider before running fuel thru them given age and lack of use?

Now that you have the starboard removed, you can take out the supply and vent fittings and look down into the tank.  If you didn't want to remove the shelf, you can use a mirror to look down the fittings.  I hooked a fuel line with a squeeze pump to the supply and ran it to a bucket...filled the tank and pumped it to a bucket to clean the tank.

4.  What's the downside to installing a shut-off valve or a standard check valve fitting before each saddle tank enters the 4-way fuel switch, just in case I want to drain or clean them out for storage?  I've never been a fan of running a tank completely dry through my engines.

The factory supply fitting has a check valve in the hose barb. 

'21 HT Sea Ranger, twin 90 ETEC's