Saddle tank install

[StreamFixer]

Got the saddle tank into place this morning   GAR143 (Greg Reed) was kind enough to come assist.  Interesting that the starboard side has the tank protruding into the cuddy about 2 inches while the Port side protrudes only about 1/2" at the most.  Obviously, while all of our boats are made from the same molds, the molds are custom made and thus susceptible to variation side to side.  I found the same when installing my sea dek, i.e., portside diamond patterning significantly larger than the starboard.

Removed the bulkheads and cut them to accommodate the tanks.  Cuddy cushions have sufficient give to accommodate the protrusion..

Pictures will be along soon as I know there skeptics among you.  Measured for new fuel lines and added a couple of feet.  When Woody put in a tank switch, he mounted it high in the splash well.  We are thinking that would significantly reduce opportunity to snag on it for what ever reason.  I would like to hear contrary opinions if offered.

Next step is to stabilize the upper shelves, install fillers (including somehow getting the holes I am going to make on the outside to match the holes in the tank on the inside...).  I got the filler covers with the purchase, however, not the vent end units.

Definitely a work in progress.  I plan to have it complete to show at the lead pour on the 15th.

StreamFixer

[GregE]

I plan to have it complete to show at the lead pour on the 15th.


Worthy goal   :arms:

[Markshoreline]

Good Luck, SF, my thoughts are with you.  I was amazed at how difficult it was to install the saddles in my 21 ht it took my BIL and I days to get it done.  The hardest part was aligning the tank filler with where the hole should go for the filler cap.  All that Starboard carpentry was kind of fun, though, working with a router and such on the edges.  I found that the single fuel bulb in the rear did not create enough suction to pull fuel from the saddles if I ran the rear tank dry so I added bulbs up near the saddles and that works great.  I recommend you examine a boat that has factory installed saddles to check dimensions and figure where to put the fuel valve. 

[croaker stroker]

Do you need any help ?   :whistle:

[StreamFixer]

Pullerd the front bulkhead and used a jigsaw to cut out for tank.  Could not take it all the way out without pulling wires from the kicker so we did it the hard way.  Still worked



Starboard side first.



Then the port


Trying to come up with a clever way to  drill filler hole through the deck to align with the tank's filler tube...

After the filler in place, the rest aughta be a snap, run hoses to the switch in the rear and install vents.

StreamFixer

[Yachter Yat]

   Fixer;  With respect to drilling that filler hole.......couldn't you somehow get a mark on the underside of the gunwale, directly over the tank opening, then remove the tank and drill a small pilot hole from the inside?   The large hole could then be drilled from the top??  If you didn't want to remove the tank again to drill the pilot hole, would a small drill with a 90 degree chuck work?  Just thinking.

Yat

[Speedbump]

Nice work SF!  I don't want to hijack your thread, but had a related question.  I was actually working on my 10 gallon saddle tank yesterday.  I have never been able to pull fuel from it since I've owned the boat.  I found the pick up fixture in the top of the tank totally plugged with a brown paste, and no pickup tube.  I don't know if it fell off or just melted away.  There is only the long spring attached to the fixture, which I am assuming was structure for the pick up tube.  What does an intact pickup tube look like?  What material is it made of?  Seems like it should be fairly rigid, so it sits right at the bottom of the tank.  Here is a picture of what I have...

[Marine40]

Russ, before you close this all up I would check your pick-up lines to make sure everything is ok. My 19 Chaser tanks went into the cuddly like yours. If I had to drill the vent hole I would just go straight up and out where you have good access.

The pain on this job is cutting the panels, getting the pick-up tubes. I plan on attaching my 4 way back where the factory mounts them. I am buying the Graco brand due to quality.

Also put one way check valve off of the pick-up lines. You can see the little ball.

My description wording might be off.

[La-Z-Buoy]

"Trying to come up with a clever way to  drill filler hole through the deck to align with the tank's filler tube..."

You know what they say, "Measure once cut twice." Or was it the other way around?????     :biggrin:

Or you could be like me, measure a half dozen times and still manage to screw it up once in a while? 

[StreamFixer]

I can beat hell out of "...once in a while."   :whistle:

StreamFixer

[GregE]

Nice work SF!  I don't want to hijack your thread, but had a related question.  I was actually working on my 10 gallon saddle tank yesterday.  I have never been able to pull fuel from it since I've owned the boat.  I found the pick up fixture in the top of the tank totally plugged with a brown paste, and no pickup tube.  I don't know if it fell off or just melted away.  There is only the long spring attached to the fixture, which I am assuming was structure for the pick up tube.  What does an intact pickup tube look like?  What material is it made of?  Seems like it should be fairly rigid, so it sits right at the bottom of the tank.  Here is a picture of what I have...

You should start a new thread but this may tie in.  SR 19 48 gallon tank pick up taken while I was cleaning the tank area.

[Markshoreline]

Russ, looks like you are doing a masterful job!  Isn't it a pita to lay on that cramped floor space then have to get up to find the screwdriver?  Here's a tip we had to figure out- the filler hole is sized only for the filler- not the hose.  The filler is long enough that the hose can butt up to the underside of the gunwale.

Speed bump, I think you need to siphon the fuel out of your tanks and if it's over a year old dispose of it. 
Remove the tanks, thoroughly clean them of all the old residue, disassemble the fittings and replace them with new, including a check valve as Marine40 illustrated.  My original pickup had a corroded screen, the new one was just cut at a 45 degree angle.  If your fuel lines are original it would be best to replace with new ethanol resistant ones.  I also replaced the 4 way valve and added a Racor fuel filter.  In addition I added pump bulbs just behind each forward tank as the solo rear bulb couldn't pull fuel that long distance.

[StreamFixer]

Fortunately, the tanks were clean and empty when I got them.  I never thought to pull the pick up tubes.  I hope I can do so without having to pull the bulkheads again.  Sounds like a job for tomorrow.

Still trying to figure out how to set up the vents.  All the pictures show using a right angle (up) vent with the hose  being bent to the tank to prevent water from getting in.  I am using 5/8 vent hose which is about as flexible a teen-age male reading the 'articles' in Playboy.

StreamFixer

[croaker stroker]

Good for you Russ. This is where your Yoga and Pilates have helped keep you limber and agile.

[StreamFixer]

Pulled the fuel feed out of the tank today.  Swedged onto the fitting at the top and some sort of metal tube (about 1" long) swedged onto the bottom.  No screen.  Tube still flexible, but not collapsible soft.  Relatively easy to access so I am going with it.

Found 90 degree 5/8" nylon barbs so I am thinking I will go with those to overcome the relatively limited area to put a 180 degree bend in the vent hose.  4 extra hose clamps each side, but makes it work.  Should keep the water out and let fumes/air move freely.

I'm not worried about fuel dissolving the nylon for a couple of reasons.  The nylon fittings don't dissolve in fuel fumes and if fuel were to get to them, I would have a heck of a lot more to be worrying about than those fittings.  Besides, got all of them for less than the cost of one brass barb.

The hole necessary to mount the filler caps allow the connecting hose between the filler cap and tank tube to be inserted from the top (YAY!!!)

StreamFixer

[Markshoreline]

NICE!  Your project is going well- but doesn't it take forever?

[Speedbump]

Done, and done...thanks Mark.  Just gotta smoke test it. 

[Mooch]

Still trying to figure out how to set up the vents.  All the pictures show using a right angle (up) vent with the hose being bent to the tank to prevent water from getting in.

SF, don't know if these help but here's some shots of mine.

Port vent:





Starboard vent:





Exterior view with fuel port:



I was at Defiance today and Belinda explained that the factory added the starboard collar spacer to the fuel port because of complaints about water getting in side tanks.  She thought it might have been due more to ethanol sweating than intrusion, but it's a nice touch anyway.  She also suggested it might be a good idea to not overfill the 7.5 tanks to avoid venting fuel in rougher conditions.  Not sure if the back flow valve suggested would address that.  Here's OEM replacement vent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZ7NN/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I haven't used my saddle tanks yet, but prepping them now for a BC/SJ trip in May.  Watching your progress with interest.  Good luck with the project and stiffy.

[Fisherdv]

Mooch, let us know how it goes when filling those tanks. My suggestion to you and Fixer is to go real slow while fueling and see if you get any blowback

[Mooch]

Thinking of running a gallon through each first.  Less to siphon if things don't work out as planned.

BTW, Burnsie Babe also schooled me on the aft 3-way fuel switch, which actually turns out to be a 4-way switch.  Up is Off. 

[StreamFixer]

Hey Mooch

Those picture really helped.  And getting the part link was great.  Order is in.  I wanted that P-trap valve, but when reading the product description, I was not sure there would be room for that part.  Your post sure cleared that up in a hurry.

Please post a view of the fuel switch and my remaining questions should be resolved.

Thank you

StreamFixer

[headduck]

We under full the saddle tanks as rough seas and expansion from heat can push fuel out the vent...I guess 15 extra gallons is still better than no extra gallons....

[Mooch]

Russ,

Here's fuel switch viewed front and back.



Also, as I came to find out the fuel switch is not a 3-way but a 4- way as pictured.


I'm sure Belinda at Defiance could help you locate a switch if one is needed.

Hope these help.

[StreamFixer]

Thank you Mooch.  I either need a second 3 way or find one of those like in your picture...  (amazon < $20)

Fortunately I have lots of barbs.  I inherited a broken 3 way and have a good one, giving me 6 barbs to choose from, including at least 1 90 degree --- and I only need 4...   

and the cash just keeps flowing out.  Where is Woody with those winning lottery numbers when I need him???   :hoboy: 

StreamFixer

[croaker stroker]

I suggest a valve that cannot shut the fuel completely off. One that is open to one tank or to the other only....no "off".  I don't think it is good for your fuel pump to suck a vacuum.