Wiring up 2 batteries...what will this do?

[DevMah]

On the switch in the diagram I posted, there is no "1" setting... it is "on, off, combined".  On works as you described... starting battery connected to motor, house battery connected to accessory loads, but both circuits isolated from each other.  The ACR functions as the "bridge" between the two circuits to share charging current  from the motor(s), but only connects them when it detects the proper conditions, then cuts out when conditions are not met.

On a smaller Arima, I think the Blue Sea Add-A-Battery "mini" is all you need (for motors putting out 65 amps or less from their alternator).  Bigger applications, or if you want overkill, the full size Add-A-Battery is rated for up to 120 amps.  I used the full size on my old Arima 17 with my 90 Suzi, and now on my tin can with the big Honda 225.  If the mini had been available, I'd have used it on the Arima as it is a little more space efficient.

We mainly install the mini on smaller outboards, all large outboards and inboards get the larger ACR.
Please follow the instructions for fusing and wiring.

Dev

[Threeweight]

My Suzi's charging output was 27 amps.  The big Honda is rated at 90 amps.

[Fisherdv]

With the blue sea/ACR kit can you still hook up a dual battery maintainer directly to the batteries while stored?

[DevMah]

With the blue sea/ACR kit can you still hook up a dual battery maintainer directly to the batteries while stored?

Yes I have a Marinco dual output charger hooked up to mine, you can even have a single bank also as the ACR will combine and charge both batteries.


Dev

[Fisherdv]

With the blue sea/ACR kit can you still hook up a dual battery maintainer directly to the batteries while stored?

Yes I have a Marinco dual output charger hooked up to mine, you can even have a single bank also as the ACR will combine and charge both batteries.


Dev

So if using a single bank charger/maintainer would you only need to hook it up directly to one battery and it will charge both? And the ACR will distribute charge to the battery that needs it?

[DevMah]

With the blue sea/ACR kit can you still hook up a dual battery maintainer directly to the batteries while stored?

Yes I have a Marinco dual output charger hooked up to mine, you can even have a single bank also as the ACR will combine and charge both batteries.


Dev

So if using a single bank charger/maintainer would you only need to hook it up directly to one battery and it will charge both? And the ACR will distribute charge to the battery that needs it?

The ACR only combines the batteries and will charge both , however it dose not manage the charge to battery needs.


https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1366

Installing a ACR with a single bank charger

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/57

Installling a ACR with multi bank charger

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/504

Or you can buy the new all in one ACR and dual bank charger.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7605/10A_BatteryLink_Charger_%5BNorth_America%5D



Dev

[Fisherdv]

Awesome Dev, thank you! Looks like the single output charger connected to one of the batteries is the easier option

[DevMah]

Yes, I have had no complaints yet...

Dev

[Fisherdv]

Is it better to leave the battery/batteries on the charger/maintainer at all times while stored or just charge every week or 2?

[Threeweight]

With one of the modern charger/maintainers, you can leave them plugged in all the time. 

Personally, I prefer to wire my ACR off the "output" side of the Blue Sea switch, so it is only able to bridge the batteries when the switch is "on", and then run my 2 bank Marinco charger off the battery posts (well actually, the Blue Sea battery terminal fuse blocks).  The Marinco charger is a "smart" charger, which can vary it's charging output to each battery individually.  Perhaps a non-issue, but I worry about having an ACR connecting the two batteries and interfering with the function of the charger.

Would be interested in hearing DevMah's thoughts on this.

 

[DevMah]

With one of the modern charger/maintainers, you can leave them plugged in all the time. 

Personally, I prefer to wire my ACR off the "output" side of the Blue Sea switch, so it is only able to bridge the batteries when the switch is "on", and then run my 2 bank Marinco charger off the battery posts (well actually, the Blue Sea battery terminal fuse blocks).  The Marinco charger is a "smart" charger, which can vary it's charging output to each battery individually.  Perhaps a non-issue, but I worry about having an ACR connecting the two batteries and interfering with the function of the charger.

Would be interested in hearing DevMah's thoughts on this.

My boat is wired similar as one side of the ACR is wired to the switch ( batt 1 is wired directly to the ACR VIA MRBF fuses-  The other side of the ACR is wired to pole #2 of the switch VIA MRBF fuses.) With the switch off the loop for the ACR is broken.

I also have the same Marinco two bank smart charger, and yes it on all the time when the boat is moored or stored.

IMO
This is the best method as each battery is charged individually and regulated ....no overcharging can occur.

Now saying that I have never heard of a issue going to a single bank smart charger or trickle.

Dev

[Fisherdv]

Would this be a good way to do mine on my little 16 SC? This is the add-a-battery mini. Then when stored hook up my single bank Noco battery maintainer to one of the batteries? Which one would I hook the charger directly to? Starting or house battery? I'm thinking of doing it exactly like this diagram. Thoughts/comments?

[DevMah]

Would this be a good way to do mine on my little 16 SC? This is the add-a-battery mini. Then when stored hook up my single bank Noco battery maintainer to one of the batteries? Which one would I hook the charger directly to? Starting or house battery? I'm thinking of doing it exactly like this diagram. Thoughts/comments?

House battery or main... either the ACR will combine at either battery.


Here is a link on how the ACR kit works

http://catalog.bluesea.com/files/assets/common/downloads/page0045.pdf

Dev

[Fishin Machine]

Would this work with a bilge pump. My bilge pump does not automatically turn on. How does a bilge pump get wired with two batteries?

The other issue is, after trolling a half of day using my TR-1 and kicker motor tends to drain the battery. I figured it is because the TR-1, fish finder, VHF radio, FM radio and maybe a cell phone is the reason. The kicker motor does not have an alternator.

FM

[Fisherdv]

I would wire the bilge pump directly to one of the batteries with an in-line fuse and to a switch on the panel. Maybe Dev could explain

[DevMah]

Would this work with a bilge pump. My bilge pump does not automatically turn on. How does a bilge pump get wired with two batteries?

The other issue is, after trolling a half of day using my TR-1 and kicker motor tends to drain the battery. I figured it is because the TR-1, fish finder, VHF radio, FM radio and maybe a cell phone is the reason. The kicker motor does not have an alternator.

FM

See attached dwg from ABYC E-11

Here are you options for you battery drain
-install larger batteries
-Add a 3rd battery
-Install a rectifier kit to your kicker

Yes it sounds like you have high draw but no way to recharge while running.

Please note  the bilge pump must have a float switch if leaving un-attended.

[DevMah]

I would wire the bilge pump directly to one of the batteries with an in-line fuse and to a switch on the panel. Maybe Dev could explain

Yes, to a deep cycle if possible.

[GHMariner]

Thanks guys...Can someone with electrical knowledge explain why in my diagram both batteries don't drain together(unless I'm in 1+2) as the negatives are always connected  regardless of which battery positive I connect to?

Because current doesn't flow through the negative side of the circuit.

Thats not technically correct, but it's the best way I can explain the answer to your question

[DevMah]

Usually B- is connected to ground (unless you have a floating voltage system) as it is considered zero volts. For this reason the B+ or AC hot has the switch is connected (the potential difference ).  You want to be able to remove the potential difference from the load (remove power from the system). If you switched on the negative side you could have a arc to ground or not be able to shut the load off (isolate)as most systems are negative grounded.

It is common practice to switch the potential difference  and remove the potential difference voltage, not the zero voltage point. (so that there is no voltage (potential difference) present.)

I use this term (potential difference) as we use +/- dc voltages to switch in PLC system and ACV, as is dose not mean a positive voltage just a difference from zero. Any voltage being positive or negative ( - or + potential difference) and not zero will cause current flow.

If my above explaination is confusing the simple answer is you want to switch the hot side off not the zero side. B- and ground/neutral equal zero volts.


So to answer your question both B- poles equals zero voltage and no potential difference.
Dev