Stainless Steel Blind Fasteners for Pedestals

[croaker stroker]

http://www.iboats.com/Garelick-Toggler-Brand-Stainless-Steel-Toggle-Bolt-Anchors/dm/view_id.38770

[Hydro-Therapy]

  Crocker those would sure do the job , But my big concern is sealing the 1/2 in. hole required to install.


  Hydro-Therapy

[Threeweight]

I'm pretty sure Belinda has said those won't work.  We have foam under the decks, there is no void for the toggles to deploy in.

when I re-did my seat pedestal, I filled the old screw holes w/ Marine Tex, cleaned things up, then re-drilled and use #14 size stainless steel lag screws (2" I think).  I buttered the holes with Gorilla Glue to add to the adhesion, and put a bead of 3m 5200 all around the base.

I have had some pretty big guys use that seat in the two years since I did the upgrade, no issues.

[woody]

I did as 3Wgt did ... on the recommendation of the Mother Ship.  No probs. Pretty sure 2". Recently on Yuku another member asked, Belinda suggested #14, 2 1/4.

lostwhaler also asked (Don) about a slightly different application, securing a metal plate, about 8x12 to which he had afixed his seat pedistal.  In this application Don recommended 1 1/2" to the 10 or so holes affixing the plate to the floor.

Seems like enough wood, etc for 2" or 2 1'4".  Everyone suggested good sealing with 5200.  Basically if the hole is under water OR is facing down, use 5200.

As 3Wgt said, toggle type fasteners have been generally discouraged.

Woody

[croaker stroker]

If I were going to use these, I would seal around the pedestal base and under the bolt heads (maybe a teflon washer under the bolt heads)

My only concern would be providing a space under the floor for the fastener. I think there is foam under there. I have an old trick that I learned years back......you get a 1/4" piece of bar stock or all- thread and drill a perpendicular hole about 1/4" from the end. Then you stick a small length of bailing wire through the hole and twist it in place. Then you chuck the contraption in a drill motor, stick it down far enough to where you want to cut your void. The centrifigal force of the drill motor forces the bailing wire out and clears out a nice little void in the foam for the fastener. When you pull it back out the bailing wire folds to fit through the hole.

Disclaimer :
This is how I would do it. I am not an expert. I am not recommending that you try this. Always wear eye protection. Don't drink acoholic beverages while doing this.  


Well it took me so long to write this that there were two other posts. Please insert this post down there.

[FISHSTALKER]

Well,,,, it's always a good idea to read the reviews. Some very good info by Lewis of Jefferson City. :dance: :biggrin:

      "by Lewis - Jefferson City, MissouriNovember 07, 2011
I used a six pack of these to add another pedestal base to a boat with a 1/2 inch plywood floor. I had installed other bases before putting the floor in, but these seemed like the best option for installing once the floor was riveted in. One cautionary note: if there is flotation foam all the way up to the underside of the floor, you need to remove it to about an inch below the surface and about an inch in diameter. This will give you space to swivel the toggles flush with the underside of the floor. Once I figured that out, installation was a breeze. I chucked a hex key (L-shaped) with the long leg in a drill, inserted the short leg in the hole, and chewed the foam up below the hole so I could install the toggles. Plenty of polyurethane adhesive (3M 5200 or equivalent) completed the installation. I haven't yet put it to a stress test, but I just can't see the toggles pulling through the plywood."