Help changing water Pump on 2003 Honda 90Hp

[Fishin Machine]

Hope some one can help, last week I started the motor since it hasn't been run for a couple of months. It took a few minutes but the motor eventually started to pee. The water coming out was very warm and then temp light came on. The motor was shut down immediately and today I was going to replace the impeller water pump.

The four bolts in the back were removed with ease, but the front bolt over the prop was difficult. Eventually the bolt came out of the top part of the housing, but is stuck in the lower unit. Is this bolt threaded into the lower unit or is it stuck do to corrosion and could be tapped out with a wood block and hammer. To turn the bold it takes a socket with a 18" breaker bar. The photos online looks like it should just drop out of the housing. Currently the bolt is soaking in break free and it is being applied every couple of hours.

Thank you for the help
FM

[DevMah]

That is a stud it's threaded on both sides...usually one side is lock-tited so it is not removable.


Dev

[Fishin Machine]

If it is a stud, there is a hex head on the other side. See Attatchments

[La-Z-Buoy]

Hey FM. I had a Honda 90, 2000, couple of years ago and if I'm not mistaken, you need to remove the trim tab. There is a bolt hidden underneath that needs to be removed to effect lower unit removal.  And you may need a good sized rubber hammer to break it loose. Good luck.

Don't forget---- mark the position to the trim tab plate before removal!!!!!


http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/pubs/pci54309pdf.pdf

[Fisherdv]

Hey FM. I had a Honda 90, 2000, couple of years ago and if I'm not mistaken, you need to remove the trim tab. There is a bolt hidden underneath that needs to be removed to effect lower unit removal.  And you may need a good sized rubber hammer to break it loose. Good luck.

Don't forget---- mark the position to the trim tab plate before removal!!!!!


http://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/pe/pdf/pubs/pci54309pdf.pdf

[Tj805]

I agree I believe there is a bolt under the trim tab.
Also change those zincs as well and Mabey run some salt away threw your cooling system
Looks like there is some buildup in there .

[tc808]

may not need to remove trim tab, I have a 2006 90 I thought I had to remove,  bolt was corroded on and I snapped it off, then had to drill it out and re tap it,  after all of that there was no attachment under the tab check around.

[tc808]

Also my motor & tab  had an indexing arrow for alignment check for that.

[La-Z-Buoy]

I need to amend my earlier post. I also seem to recall, at least for my generation of motor, that there were 2 different types of lower units, one was a genuine Honda, the other was supplied by Mercury. I think mine was the Mercury one. Boy, I'm a lot of help  .

[tc808]

The Seloc manual I have says it could be either way so you are correct LZB.

[Fisherdv]

If it is a stud, there is a hex head on the other side. See Attatchments

Remove the gearcase cover as described in the top photo of the manual. That bolt should drop out. If not try VERY carefully to tap it out. If that is the CORRECT manual for your year and serial number motor, follow the directions exactly, step by step.

[Fisherdv]

It says to REMOVE that 10x80 hex bolt and washer so it must be able to drop out

[Fisherdv]

If you are able to get that bolt out, I would put some marine grease on it, and all the bolts to facilitate easier removal next time

[ATGEP]

I use anti seize and the lower unit pops right off the following year. Dont for get to do the propshaft lube and gear oil while you are at it.

[dbhazjack]

FM I have a 2013, don't think the lower unit design has changed much, mine is exactly like your diagram and yes that bolt should drop out. Instead of break free you might try soaking the stud with salt away or straight white vinegar to break up the salt and mineral deposits. Also, it's recommended to remove the lower unit every other year for inspection. I suspect a major reason for this is to prevent those deposits from developing. As others have said coating the bolts with a good marine grease helps. One other thing to consider since it looks like it may have been a while since your lower unit has been off, you can order replacement alignment pins (2 front and rear) from iBoats. Put some grease on those also for reassembly.

The good news is you have it apart without breaking of a hardened steel bolt in the aluminum housing! The rest is a piece of cake now!!

Good luck


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Fisherdv]

I use anti seize and the lower unit pops right off the following year. Dont for get to do the propshaft lube and gear oil while you are at it.

I would not use anti-seize as it is metallic and a dissimilar metal. In saltwater this could actually make galvanic corrosion worse

[Hydroman]

There are many different types of anti seize available, just make sure you  get the correct compound for your application.  There are numerous publications available that identify the correct application for different conditions.

Jim

[croaker stroker]

Don't forget to check/change your thermostat.

[Fishin Machine]

Thank you everyone for help, I was able to get a hammer and tap on the bolt and it eventually came out. The bolt will need to be replace. Croaker where is the thermostat? is it easy to change?

Thank you for the help
FM

[tc808]

Thermostat is up on the block port side on my 2006 your manual will have the location.

[Threeweight]

Tef Gel is an anti-corrosion product designed for aluminum (it's what the military uses for aircraft and marine applications) that works great as an anti-seize as well.  A tube is pricey at We$t Marine, but a little bit goes a loooooong way.  For outboards where corrosion is a major issue, I'd look into it.

Typical anti-size lubes use either copper or aluminum.  You want to stay away from copper-based anti-size products in a boat, but aluminum works great.  You can buy marine-spec aluminum anti-seize stuff at We$t Marine as well.

[croaker stroker]

Tip : read your service manual !  And use the recommended thread treatment.

Anti-seize or grease/lubricant applied where thread-lock is needed can spell disaster.  (Don't ask)


FishMachine,

What TC808 said.


Although I have been using it, anti-seize is probably not good on your spark plugs. I have noticed that it hardens over time, like any other oil or grease. When removing the old plugs, small hardened pieces flake off and may drop into your cylinder. Not sure of the consequences of that ??

Most of my outboard related problems are because I did something stupid. Sometimes I think I know more than the dozens of brilliant engineers that collaborated to write the service manual.