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would like to hear your opinion on moving batteries to the cuddy???

Started by Tunacious, October 11, 2017, 11:10:29 PM

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Tunacious

I am tired of fighting corrosion.  It never ends.

It makes sense to me the batteries to a boat should be up front out of the weather and where they will stay dry.

To my thinking there just isn't much room in the back where the batteries are stored with the buss bar and power switch is mounted next to the battery.  Its just hard to see anything and almost impossible to keep dry when your always washing down blood and what not. 

I know a lot of guys have moved their batteries up front to shift some weight from the stern to the bow.

Im more interested in just keeping everything dry and less corrosion.

Im wondering if anybody who moved their batteries up to the cuddly have noticed less corrosion?

Four years ago I bought a Garmin Auto Pilot for my 21 foot Hard top.

After paying $3,000 for the unit it lasted four years before it had to be replaced.

The company (now out of business)  that installed it for me placed it under the rear bait tank box on the port side.

The unit got so rusty the brushes inside the unit corroded up and wouldn't work anymore.

I went to Rodgers Marine this week and they installed a new Raymarine Auto Pilot in my boat for me.  ($3,000) Ouch   :big shock:

Rodgers Marine told me they would never mount such a unit in the back of the boat because of the moisture it would be subjected to.

The new auto pilot is mounted up front in the cuddy and makes sense to me.

When I Moore my boat I plug into shore power and run a heater inside my cuddly to keep things dry.

I am imagining my buss bars being stored inside a water proof box such as a pelican case that can be opened when needed and then closed again to keep things as dry as possible.

For anybody who took on the project of moving their batteries can you give me an idea if you noticed any difference in corrosion and what it cost for the project?

Im going salmon fishing in Port Orford again this year and leave in a couple of days.

Hopefully I can catch enough fish to pay for my new auto pilot and have some money left over to rewire my boat this winter. 

Any thoughts or opinions you all have I am looking forward to hearing.

Thanks,

Walt

StreamFixer

Make the move Walt. 

Batteries in the back (and mine still are on my present boat) affect the ride and, as you know, are a pain in the lower back even though relatively easy to access.  Not sure that is a resolvable issue.   :biggrin:

I moved my batteries to the cuddy on my 17SC.  Huge difference in ride, actually easier to work on.  I made a sprung platform, however, unless using lead/acid batteries, probably a wasted effort.

The only down side during that work was that I used too small a wire from the motor to the batteries.  Once that was corrected, things works very smoothly...

StreamFixer
'01 Hewes Sportsman 18
'14 Yamaha 90
'01 T8 w/ solas 4 blade
'19 Minn Kota 80# (Alterra)
'97 19SC w/ Salt Boss Top


"By the grace of God we travel upon the rivers and sea..
They, like He, are mightier than me."  Mike Jesperson aka 'Nalu

Diablo

I'd go for it. In your case I would get AGM batteries. You still need ventilation but not as much. New cables running all the way back to the main are spendy. And you will probably want new switches, ACR, bu$$e$. I think you will also notice the weight shift on how your boat handles. You will do an enviable job of rewiring and glad you did it.
Good luck and stay safe fishing

http://www.boats.com/how-to/sealed-batteries-still-need-venting/#.Wd-bb_plCf0
'98 19SR  '15 E Tec 115, '10 Honda 8
'67. 23 Tollycraft, 283 Chevy
'04  14' Western, '15 Tohatsu 10
'87  37 Roughwater two 8.2 Detroit diesels SOLD
'88 17SR  '90 Johnson 90, Honda 8, SOLD

First Cabin

I did it on a previous Arima and would do again in a heartbeat.  Only downside is the initial cost.

On my previous boat I often used my washdown while in saltwater and had many of the same corrosion issues you describe.  Now, while in saltwater, I'm very careful about using the washdown liberally.  I save my big washdowns for when I'm in the driveway with soap and water.

In your situation, I think you have to do it!  (See how easy it was for me to spend your time and money?)

Cost? Probably a boat buck before you are done.  You can't skimp on the wire size or quality.
First:  1982 15' SeaHunter, Yamaha 70 2-stroke, Yamaha F6
Second:  1987 17' SeaRanger, Merc 90 2-stroke, Yamaha F8
Current:  2002 17' SeaChaser, Yamaha F100, Yamaha T8

Markshoreline

Walt I have the same questions, as my boat lives on a mooring buoy for more than half the year.  I wash down with salt water and pump it out with the bilge pumps.  It would be possible to get enough water in the boat to reach the electronics in the transom such as the batteries, switch, buss bars and battery charger so am interested in making this move as well.  It would be good to have all of those devices forward and out of reach of the salt. 

On another note, I always get a giggle when autocorrect fixes the word "cuddy"...  :jester:

Quote from: Tunacious on October 11, 2017, 11:10:29 PM
When I Moore my boat I plug into shore power and run a heater inside my cuddly to keep things dry.

2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

Tunacious

Mooring is nice but in some ways I am questioning if it's worth it. 
Bottom paint expense. Bilge never gets completely drained. Corrosion issues are worse.
Then at Garbaldi the port is next to the mill. The boat gets wet from the mist and then the dust from the mill settles in the boat. Boat is always filthy.

StreamFixer

But Walt, the mill dust, once combined with the mist, on those few days it will dry out.... forms a nearly impenetrable crust that protects the boat's gel coat...    :stirthepot:

StreamFixer

'01 Hewes Sportsman 18
'14 Yamaha 90
'01 T8 w/ solas 4 blade
'19 Minn Kota 80# (Alterra)
'97 19SC w/ Salt Boss Top


"By the grace of God we travel upon the rivers and sea..
They, like He, are mightier than me."  Mike Jesperson aka 'Nalu

Yachter Yat

   At times I think a good location for batteries would be in the seat box on the port side.  I say port side because (in my case, at least) I'm about 65 lbs. heavier than my 99 lb. wife. :jester:   Under that scenario, I suppose  Arima would have to provide a PVC pipe chase, of some sort, to accommodate the cables. 

Yat
History is not the past; it's the present, as we all carry it with us......James Baldwin    
16 SC/Honda 60  (sold)

Salmon King

I refuse to lose what little space there is in the cuddy so my batteries are staying put...
At least until I can figure out how I want to mount them in either the Port seat box or make a box/foot rest to hold them under the helm.

Just haven't quite made up my mind yet.
PLEASE...Fly your flag Proudly, and remember to thank a Vet!
2011 14' Sterling
9' Pontoon (Bismarck)
8' Pontoon (Hood)

croaker stroker

That's a pretty good idea. A footrest for both seats that doubles as a battery box. That would require more wire, but is a great suggestion SK.  :applause: :applause: :applause:
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

Markshoreline

Funny- with the XL 25 lb T9.9 on the port my boat has a port list that I have to use trim tabs to correct, especially with a passenger.
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

rockhill

Quote from: Markshoreline on October 13, 2017, 10:31:18 PM
Funny- with the XL 25 lb T9.9 on the port my boat has a port list that I have to use trim tabs to correct, especially with a passenger.

I installed two AGM batteries on the starboard side in the cuddy. It balances the kicker on the port side nicely.  :biggrin:
2014 Arima 21SR DF140ATL
2007 Willie Predator 20'x72" F50
2003 ATEC 24' Hydrolite DF175TL2
1992 Alumaweld 16'x54" Guide Model drift boat
1980 Glasply 16' F70

Tom Mac

I think you have answered you own question! Being a commercial fisherman and bringing many many more fish than a sporty into your boat to meet there death the raw water hose would come out a lot I would think. Having the battery's and other electrical items back aft makes no sense I would move it all forward.
1991 Sea Ranger 17, 2014 F90 Yamaha, 2008 T8 Yamaha

Cannon

I located my batteries forward. Granted my boat is not an Arima, but the principles are the same. The only concerns are: 1. explosive gasses (good battery boxes solve the explosion issue). 2. Voltage drop from the OB to the batteries. I solved that by running 2/0 wire from the batteries to the disconnect and from there to the OB. Before I did that, the voltage drop was much less than optimal and with you running your gurdies with those high draw motors it could/would be serious. But with the larger wire, no problem.
I have experienced little corrosion with the boat moored in Newport for the summer.
It has worked so well, I would do it again, with 150# of salt ice in the cockpit it actually helps with trim.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; while the Titanic was built by professionals.

Cannon

Oh, and one more critical part to the equation, coat all connections with dielectric grease! Makes a world of difference!
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; while the Titanic was built by professionals.

Mr.Petersen

TAG, I'm going to come back to this when I have time. I'm planning a rewire this winter and adding in a second battery was hoping I can put them up front in my chaser.

Cannon

The key to moving your batteries is not only weight, but voltage drop. I have three, two for the house and one strictly for starting. You can assess your voltage drop here: http://www.genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop-calculator
The starter on my Yamaha 225 draws up to 150 amp, so I would verify that your wire is up to that task, otherwise fire or as in my case, the motor wouldn't turn over without engaging all three batteries. the length of run includes your battery leads. I had longer leads which I shortened and affixed using shielded block terminals. Once I upgraded the wire to 2/0, I never had another problem. Each battery is also fused prior to feeding the Three-way switch which feeds the fuse blocks for all of the electronics.
Remember, the ark was built by amateurs; while the Titanic was built by professionals.

Threeweight

Most of what I'd add has already been said.

Go with sealed AGM batteries, to avoid any issues with pounding or gas/acid leaks.

Anchor your compartment down well... I used a lot of stainless screws when I built the compartment out of Starboard on my old 17'.

As noted above, go bigger than you need on a 12 volt cable.  A good rule of thumb for starting amperage is 1 amp per 1 cubic inch of displacement.  You need to measure and know how long your total cable run will be from motor to batteries (and the run includes both the positive and negative cables, so if each cable has to be 16 feet long your total run is 32 feet).

I think your Honda 130 is around 140 cubic inches.  I would use Blue Sea's calculator on wire size.... when I did my Suzuki 90 (92 cubic inches), I recall they recommended #3 gauge... I believe I went with #1. 

http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Former Sea Chaser 17 owner
Defiance 250 Admiral, twin Yamaha 150's and T9.9

"Never turn your back on fear. It should always be in front of you, like a thing that might have to be killed."
       --- Hunter S. Thompson

Tunacious

Ive drilled a lot of holes in my boat and made a lot of stuff work but this job really intimidates me.

I have no idea where to start.

Feel like I'm eating an elephant.

I guess the old phrase: "one bite at a time"

gfakkema

DO IT!  :stirthepot:

Seriously though, I just rebuilt much of my electrical system this past winter. I already wish that I had moved the batteries to the cuddy or at least inside the cabin. I pretty much have my entire distribution system installed in the transom and I am still finding myself constantly fighting corrosion. I am already looking at making the move again during this upcoming winter. Not only do you get more corrosion resistance, but as you probably know, you also get some stern lift.
2001 22' Sea Legend HT w/Alaskan Bulkhead
2006 Suzuki DF250 / 2004 Mercury 9.9

Diablo

Quote from: Tunacious on October 19, 2017, 08:58:18 PM
Ive drilled a lot of holes in my boat and made a lot of stuff work but this job really intimidates me.

I have no idea where to start.

Feel like I'm eating an elephant.

I guess the old phrase: "one bite at a time"

I suggest you draw your electrical system. For me that takes several attempts. First drawing is rough, I don't like to erase. Then I move components around on the drawings until it's neat and clear what I'll need. Then you can't start to think of where you will be installing all the component and wire sizes. This way you will have a pretty good idea of what you are doing before you start. You'll have a plan.
From seeing your posts of other modifications on your boat I'm confident you will do an outstanding job.  :beerchug:
'98 19SR  '15 E Tec 115, '10 Honda 8
'67. 23 Tollycraft, 283 Chevy
'04  14' Western, '15 Tohatsu 10
'87  37 Roughwater two 8.2 Detroit diesels SOLD
'88 17SR  '90 Johnson 90, Honda 8, SOLD

rockhill

Here's a few pictures of mine Walt.  I put them on the starboard side to offset the kicker.



2014 Arima 21SR DF140ATL
2007 Willie Predator 20'x72" F50
2003 ATEC 24' Hydrolite DF175TL2
1992 Alumaweld 16'x54" Guide Model drift boat
1980 Glasply 16' F70

Tunacious

Thanks for all the posts. I was ready to hire it out.
I'm ready to go it.
I bet I can do a better job than a hired guy.
I'm very visual. The drawings will help.

FishAddict

What brand of batteries is that you have with the terminals on the side or did you mount them laying down?  I have also been thinking about doing this project this winter.  Is it still safe to sleep in the cuddy cabin overnight with the door closed with the AGM batteries?  I was also considering making a box and putting them under my captains seat.  Any thoughts on under the skippers seat for balancing the kicker weight?
21ft Sea Ranger w/Yamaha F150

rockhill

Quote from: FishAddict on October 20, 2017, 11:18:22 PM
What brand of batteries is that you have with the terminals on the side or did you mount them laying down?  I have also been thinking about doing this project this winter.  Is it still safe to sleep in the cuddy cabin overnight with the door closed with the AGM batteries?  I was also considering making a box and putting them under my captains seat.  Any thoughts on under the skippers seat for balancing the kicker weight?

Fullriver DC85-12 (AGM). They're mounted on their side.  Yes, it's safe to sleep in the cuddy with the door closed. I think it's an excellent idea to mount them under the helm seat. It might be a pain to run the cables though.  Good luck!
2014 Arima 21SR DF140ATL
2007 Willie Predator 20'x72" F50
2003 ATEC 24' Hydrolite DF175TL2
1992 Alumaweld 16'x54" Guide Model drift boat
1980 Glasply 16' F70