Topic: Bait Tank Setup for 17' Sea Chaser

[Arimadrifter]

Thank you. The more I get into my 20 gal Brute trash can, the more I realize that $300-$400 is not that bad. I seem to have decisions at every step that could make or break the effectiveness of the tank. Top, drain, intake, etc.
I appreciate all the help and advise. I'll post pics once I get it finished and will try it out this winter while crsbbing prior to hauling it to so cal next summer for some live bait action.

[Croaker Stroker]

I am convinced that the home-made tanks work well.....but only half as well as those built by the pros.

However, my bait stays alive just as long as I am willing to fish.  When they die, it’s time for me to go home.   

We left at 6:00 with 1/2 scoop, fished till the wind came up at 2:00, most of the bait had died. (Some died by fish) ....we had about 10 lively baits that we released.   

[Arimadrifter]

I would call that a positive attitude! Right On Croaker!

[GregE]

My home made tank Could have worked if I set the thru hull pickup to work while running rather than use the flush wash down pickup. Notice the hose is already disconnected - we had resorted to dumping buckets of water to help the surviving chovies.

Kim H preparing to gaff Judy's Albacore on our first Tuna trip Oct 2012

[AJFishin]

When I made my 20 gallon Brute tank I went OVER BOARD and tried to re-invent the wheel, but not to great. So last month I retooled my tank, got rid of my outflow pump for the end of day drain, installed a ball valve to drain & it works great..

Making it was fun and I learned a lot about bait tanks, how they work, what works, etc. But in my opinion what makes DIY bait tanks a PITA to make, is not knowing what parts to get and how to put them together to make everything work properly. Great thing about this forum is, I got some good advice on making mine and by my own trial and error. One thing I learned, make it simple.

Some down falls I see with a trash can bait tanks versus the manufacture ones.
Some water leaks out from the rim (even with a lid on), they can be wide and take up space on the deck, and if you don't put a proper "shield" over your outflow, the sardines will block it up.
With mine trash can, I can usually keep about 90% of my sardines alive for a day out fishing.

[Arimadrifter]

Good stuff AJFishin! Love the video. Does your water intake point down? Do you agree that it's not good to circulate the water counterclockwise?
Clean job on the plumbing. I'm planning to have my drain similar to the way you did yours.

Greg

[AJFishin]

Good stuff AJFishin! Love the video. Does your water intake point down? Do you agree that it's not good to circulate the water counterclockwise?
Clean job on the plumbing. I'm planning to have my drain similar to the way you did yours.

Greg

Thanks.
I'm a believer in not having the water move in a circular motion. I also believe it's better to have the water come from the top versus from the bottom.
I point the intake straight down, not at an angle, and the nozzle is below the water line. This seems to keep the sardines calmer and more intergenic.
I agree with others that have said, a circular motion in a tank, is like putting the sardines on a treadmill.

The drain hose idea came from 3weight which he was referring to another member Secret Spot. I like the idea of using an access plate in the motor well to run the discharge hose through.

http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=4685.0

A few things I learned.
Keep a good water flow, defusing the incoming water, but not fast to create a current that will wear out your bait.
Use a bait net but don't drag your net through the water, let the bait swim into it. Do your best to keep the scales and slim on your bait. And don't leave the net in the tank.

Check out my thread and you will be able to see some good advice I got along with me reinventing the wheel

http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=14076.0

Also here's my easy end of day drain, better then the pump I had.

[Arimadrifter]

Awesome. Thank you very much!

[Arimadrifter]

How much bait do you run in your 20 gallon Brute?

[AJFishin]

Half a scoop

[Arimadrifter]

Thank you. What did you use to cut thru the splashwell for the access panel? Jigsaw?

[Arimadrifter]

I'm using 3/4" plywood for the top. The plan is to epoxy coat it and use thickened epoxy on the cut edges. I may cut the top of the 5 gal bucket down so it fits almost flush on top, but haven't decided yet.
Thought on the top? Problems? Suggestions?

http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/9330-091117103458.png

[Croaker Stroker]

Arimadrifter,

The bucket idea will work great. 

How will you seal the wood to the trash can...and the bucket to the wood....maybe 5200 ?  🤔

[Arimadrifter]

Yes, I was thinking 5200. I'd like to have the top flat for setting crab pots on. How important is it to have the top of the bucket extending several inches above the top? I was thinking about just leaving the lip so I could fasten a 5 gal bucket lid to the top when running.

[AJFishin]

CS that's a great idea for a lid! I did some research before regarding "glueing" lids to the Brute can. The material the Brute is made of, doesn't play well adhesives.
BUT with the wood top, I think that changes the game. I'm thinking Gorilla marine epoxy the woods edge to the can,then 5200 the top to make a leak proof top? I think the wood will need to be a real snug fit, so there's no bending?
That is, if you want permanent top, which I think would be a good idea.
There is one issue, not sure about other cans, but mine does not have a lip on the inside of the can for the wood platform to rest on. So maybe have to drill a few holes in the can and insert some stainless steel screws for support?
 
Arimadrifter
I cut through the splash well with a jigsaw, but first I laid down some blue tape. I traced the inter circle of the cover plate and then cut inside my mark. Then with a dremel and a sandpaper attachment, I widened the hole till it was the correct opening, double checking the backside of the splash well to make sure it was even. Drill my holes through the plate holes, removed the tape, boat life chaulk on the backside of the plate, then once attached, again boat life chaulk around the outside edge.
To drill the hole in the access plate, I drilled a few large pilot holes, then dremeled the width of the hose I was using to make a snug fit.

Regarding the bucket top. As long as the bottom portion is long enough to barely touched the water, you can adjust your top to whatever height you want. Maybe leave at lease a inch, just enough to put a lid on. 

[Arimadrifter]

Getting the plywood to fit perfectly was a bit of work but the lid fits very tight and really stiffens up the 20 gal Brute can. As mentioned, there isn't a ledge inside the can to fasten on to, but the way it's tapered, it's very tight. I'm planning to drill 4 pilot holes thru the side of the can and fasten with screws along with 5200 on top and bottom.

[AJFishin]

Getting the plywood to fit perfectly was a bit of work but the lid fits very tight and really stiffens up the 20 gal Brute can. As mentioned, there isn't a ledge inside the can to fasten on to, but the way it's tapered, it's very tight. I'm planning to drill 4 pilot holes thru the side of the can and fasten with screws along with 5200 on top and bottom.

You work FAST 

What width of plywood did you use, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ?

[Arimadrifter]

3/4" marine grade. I thought thinner plywood might be flimsy. The plywood make sure the tank very solid.

[Arimadrifter]

.....makes the tank very solid!

The picture above is the one I put together.

[AJFishin]

.....makes the tank very solid!

The picture above is the one I put together.

My bad, I should have read your post better 

Looks great and that's a great idea, I'll have to give a try next week.


I also bought from Home Depot, pretty sure any hardware store might have them, but Light Duty Anchor Points. Along with a tie down strap, it works nicely to hold the tank in place. I got that idea from Croaker I believe.

For my water discharge hose I purchased a 1-1/4 in. x 24 ft. Sump Pump Discharge Hose Kit, from Home Depot, but also can be found on Amazon, which works great and it's cheap, $13

[Arimadrifter]

Thanks for the idea for securing the tank. That was going to be one of my next questions. Appreciate all the help and suggestions!

Greg

[Croaker Stroker]

Yes, I was thinking 5200. I'd like to have the top flat for setting crab pots on. How important is it to have the top of the bucket extending several inches above the top? I was thinking about just leaving the lip so I could fasten a 5 gal bucket lid to the top when running.

I was going to mention that I don’t believe you need the bucket to extend above the top.  Extending down into the tank about 2-1/2” should stop the sloshing.

I used a stainless steel transom tie down ratchet strap. You can see it just under the tank lip.

[Arimadrifter]

Thanks Croaker

[GregE]

Here's the intake pickup that works on plane..