Hydraulic steering on a 16SC?

[Fisherdv]

I know there's lots of info here on hydraulic steering, but it's seems to be on the 17 and up boats. I'm thinking about whether or not to add a baystar system to my new 16 SC. It's still being built. I have had a couple well respected opinions about it but wanted to see if there's anyone else with hydraulic steering on a 16. The motor is a Honda BFP60. My concerns is that the steering wheel will stick out to far and get in the way of standing and driving, full forward throttle hitting the wheel, and high maintenance and leaks. Will hydraulic fluid leaks eat the gel coat??? On the plus side I really like not having to hold the wheel to keep straight while trolling and dropping lines in the water. And not worrying about frozen cables. Any thoughts on putting baystar on this size boat? Thx.

[croaker stroker]

If you are spending the money to get a new boat and motor....add the hydraulic steering. What's another couple hundred.? 

I don't know anyone who is unhappy with the BayStar Steering.   :twocents:

[Fishin Machine]

I have baystar and extremely happy with it. The maintenance is low and you can do it yourself.

FM

[Yachter Yat]

   Fisher;  I have no problems with my cable, but if this boat is still on the factory floor, then you might want to consider having them install the hydro.  BTW, I believe it might be Sea Dog that makes an 11" diameter stainless steering wheel.  Looks identical to the larger diameter models.  Might save a little leg room if this is your concern.  Not only that; who needs a huge wheel with power steering? 

Yat

[Omega3]

I would get the No Feed back helm and cable.Tracks straight at any speed.No pump,hoses,fluid,bleeding or ram to fail or rebuild.A couple hundred bucks will not buy a Baystar system,in fact it won't even get you half way there.A 60hp motor is not a torque monster,you won't gain anything with the Baystar.I would spend the $700 on something else like real trim tabs or a decent fishfinder.

[Tj805]

On my ranger I have cable Steering .
Works fine changed the original cables that were from 87 last year.
You can always add it later down the road .
I could see on a bigger boat it being nice.

[Sea Señor]

Had a cable setup on our 16SC a while back. Put the boat in the water after having it in the garage for a couple months, the steering felt a bit sticky, so we tried to putt around the harbor and loosen it up. Snapped it.

We switched over to a BayStar hydro set up and it's been great, easy to install and very little maintenance. Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/Baystar-HK4200A-3-Hydraulic-Steering-Cylinder/dp/B00PBDT3B8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501342762&sr=8-1&keywords=baystar+hydraulic+steering+kit

[Fisherdv]

I'm just thinking if it's a good improvement over cable and no frozen cable worries, now would be the time to have it installed as my boat is still at the factory. The boat will see lots of saltwater use in some choppy water so I'm sure with that cable steering sitting so low on the transom that It may be a problem with the cable. My buddy bought a new Alumaweld boat last year, a good few runs in choppy SF bay and his cable froze in less than a year! I also live 2 states away from the dealer so I can't just bring it in. Only concerns with the baystar is the steering wheel sticking out more and leaks/ bleeding system every year. How long will the baystar system last? I just can't decide 

[Omega3]

5 dollar bicycle inner tube and a few zip ties.Cover the entire pivot arm from the motor and exposed end of the steering cable and they never get wet.The ram is just as exposed to water as the cable.I live 30 miles frim the factory and never take my boat there.There are ways to make the cable last a long time.I use gear oil in the inner tube not grease,like an oil bath hub.No water gets in no oil gets out.Steering is smooth as silk.

[Fisherdv]

That sounds like a good idea. Do you have a pic?

[Omega3]

Pics are a pain to post on this site.Do you still have my number?

[AJFishin]

Just like some other comments above, if you're boat is in the process of getting built, and you can afford the extra $$$, go with hydraulic.
As for me, I have a steering cable and it was my own doing that made it get stuck.
The main flaw for the steering cable, IMO, which actually is the motor manufacturer issue, is the plastic nut cap on the end of the rod. Being in saltwater the plastic nut failed allowing water to get inside the tube.
After fixing everything, I bought a $20 Steering nut with a zerk fitting on it, and it works better then before when it was working properly.
This problem was magnified when I thought I was greasing the rod from a zerk fittings, but I was not, I was just greasing the pivot.
It was pretty simple job to fix after i built an engine stand. Banged out the rod, clean and greased.

[AJFishin]

[Fisherdv]

You got that right!

[Fisherdv]

Omega, yes. If I go with cable we'll talk.

[blindmonkey]

The other advantage of hydraulic steering is you can have the entry point through the splash well much higher and eliminate the possibility of water going through the low entry point opening that cable steering requires to operate.  :twocents:  I wouldn't hesitate to go hydraulic.

[Chief of the Boat]

I have seen two year old boats with mechanical steering failure rack up a  huge bill to replace the frozen cable and steering tube.   I am on my 7th year with Baystar on my moored 1511 Sea Explorer and have no issues.   When someone asks me what steering to get and I tell them pay me now or pay me later.   :twocents:

[Yachter Yat]

   I honestly think many (if not most) of the problems associated with cable steering failure is likely due to the use of automotive grease.  I've seen this time and time again.  My rack and pinion cable system is the original from 94 and still operates as smooth as silk.  Get that grease nut that AJ mentioned and use OMC lube.  Don't forget the zerk under the dash.  Sometimes I think that's the one that actually gets the grease down the cable. 

Yat

[Chief of the Boat]

Yat,
Your helm has a zerk?  The current mechanical steering has no lubrication points.

[AJFishin]

Like Yat, my rack and pinion steering at the helm has a zerk fitting too. My steering cable, I would have to guess, is the original from '96 and it moves great, especially after fixing it.
Another grease, which I use and I'm bias to, is Green grease, seems to work pretty good.

Anyway, if you haven't already done this, you might want to look at other items that you may want or need for your boat. Make a list and separate them in priorities, then break them down by the ease and cost of adding it now vs later.  :twocents:

[Fisherdv]

I wonder if they just don't make the cable steering like they did years ago. My 1994 Klamath had cable steering and I never had any problems with it. And it's the original cable. I always used Mercury marine grease. I just didn't like having to always baby the wheel while trolling and trying to drop my lines in the water. If I let the wheel go at trolling speed it would turn sharply.

[Yachter Yat]

   Chief, yes.  My rack and pinion has that zerk fitting.   To reiterate; at times I think it may well be the most important link to the longevity of the system.  Not only does that lube-point keep the gears well packed, but (and perhaps more importantly) that fitting could really serve to allow lubrication to get to what I believe to be one of the most critical sections of the cable; that is, the section that makes that fairly sharp turn from the helm to the parallel run along the gunwale. 

   It might be interesting to hear from those who have had cable failures in the past regarding whether or not those systems had that zerk at the helm.  It would also be interesting to know exactly where (along the cables) those failures occurred.  Finally, (at the risk of sounding like a broke record) an account of what type of lubrication was generally used, in the case of those failures, could also prove to be an important factor in this mix. 

Yat

[Flying Arima]

   Chief, yes.  My rack and pinion has that zerk fitting.   To reiterate; at times I think it may well be the most important link to the longevity of the system.  Not only does that lube-point keep the gears well packed, but (and perhaps more importantly) that fitting could really serve to allow lubrication to get to what I believe to be one of the most critical sections of the cable; that is, the section that makes that fairly sharp turn from the helm to the parallel run along the gunwale. 

   It might be interesting to hear from those who have had cable failures in the past regarding whether or not those systems had that zerk at the helm.  It would also be interesting to know exactly where (along the cables) those failures occurred.  Finally, (at the risk of sounding like a broke record) an account of what type of lubrication was generally used, in the case of those failures, could also prove to be an important factor in this mix. 

Yat

My cable failed on my 19 Chaser after 2 years. The new cable system are completely sealed meaning you don't have any grease fittings. I upgraded to hydraulic steering and never looked back.

[Fisherdv]

You would think the manufacturers of these cable systems are  well aware of all the failures. Why don't they add a couple grease or oil fittings somewhere to keep the cable lubed? It's not rocket science is it? Or maybe then they won't be able to sell you a new one :hoboy:

[La-Z-Buoy]

The cable issue on my 17 was not really a "cable" issue. It froze up inside the motor pivot tube. This area, on some motors, is NOT lubed by the zerks at the pivot points on the motor (Honda). So is that a cable issue or a motor issue. Honestly it's probably an owner issue more than anything. Lack of attention to detail, at least on my part. My Suzuki dealer stated that the zerks on the pivot points on the motor do indeed lube the steering rod also. But I'll keep checking. I did install a steering arm boot both on the Honda and now on my Suzuki: