News:

Welcome to the largest gathering of ARIMA boat owners anywhere. We are a forum based gathering of Arima Boat enthusiasts that like to pleasure cruise, fish, camp, and hunt. While Arimas are centered in the PNW, we have members across the globe. It is 3/4's water after all. Lurk, join up, and post about your Arima upgrades, family trips, and of course, your fishing exploits. Just remember to add photos whenever possible.

Main Menu

Run Time?

Started by Markshoreline, July 18, 2017, 07:05:35 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

First Cabin

This is so darn complicated!!!!!!

1.  Sometimes voltage doesn't mean anything.  If the kicker with a rectifier doesn't have a voltage regulator(which is normal) and the main with an alternator does(which is normal), the voltage will spike while the kicker is running and be low while the main is running.  And neither means anything important.

2.  Voltage doesn't mean shit unless it is extremely high (say over 15v) or extremely low (say well under 12v)

3.  Even that doesn't mean much... If you are pulling a big load (say pulling a heavy shrimp pot) the voltage may drop below 12v while pulling and recover to 12.6 volts soon after the pull, you may be just fine.

4.  Relying on voltage alone is a fools game.  Even worse is relying on voltage through a fish finder, displaying voltage off the NMEA 2000 network, when your main is connected to a different battery....I've done that!!!

Clear as mud?
First:  1982 15' SeaHunter, Yamaha 70 2-stroke, Yamaha F6
Second:  1987 17' SeaRanger, Merc 90 2-stroke, Yamaha F8
Current:  2002 17' SeaChaser, Yamaha F100, Yamaha T8

Hydroman

Did you get you charging problem fixed?
Jim
17 Sea Chaser (sold)
21 Skip Tower (sold)
27 Thunder Jet OS (sold)
22 Thunder Jet OS

Markshoreline

The boat is still in the water so haven't been able to do much diagnostics.  Did stick a volt meter on the batteries and one is at 11.5 and the other is at 12.5 volts.  I picked up a Harbor Freight 1.5watt solar charger and clamped it to the low battery two days ago- will check tomorrow and see what difference there is if any.
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

Threeweight

Does your 11.5 battery have any load on it that is not disconnected by the switch?

At 11.5 volts, that equates to about a 20% charge.  It's either going bad or getting hammered by a drain.

Former Sea Chaser 17 owner
Defiance 250 Admiral, twin Yamaha 150's and T9.9

"Never turn your back on fear. It should always be in front of you, like a thing that might have to be killed."
       --- Hunter S. Thompson

Salmon King

On my last trip to MCB I started having a problem with 1of my HDS-7 units. The one I use as a depthfinder.
Anyway...it shuts down unexpectedly.
My son, genius that he his decided to see if it was a battery problem.
He turned the period swith while I was running the main Motor.
Normally that's ok but he accidentally swithched it to off for a split second (actually I think it was more like 2 seconds).
Soon as he turned it back on I checked my engine gauges and the voltage on the nmea network...
Everything appears to be ok.  14.5 volts when I am running but I did notice that the alternator cannot keep up when I troll with the main...voltage will eventually drop.

But...why would that affect only 1 unit and not the rest??
And...for you electronic geniuses out there...how can I solve this?
PLEASE...Fly your flag Proudly, and remember to thank a Vet!
2011 14' Sterling
9' Pontoon (Bismarck)
8' Pontoon (Hood)

DevMah

#30
Mark
Can you give me some info...
Type of pot puller...average number or pulls for both crab and shrimp.
Type of engines and alt size.
Your average  cruising speed.
Specs on both your battery's. Is one dedicated for engine and other for house.

IMO
It sounds like your are not able to charge both batteries, due to your usage...or possibly a bad cell.

Dev

2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

beancounter

Another thought is a cheap little generator from harbor freight or somewhere to run a charger on your batteries.

TD

If youre in the ocean and maybe having charging problems, id go with keeping the main on...safety first..getting stranded is no fun...my 2 cents.

Markshoreline

OK I've been able to observe the charging issues but have not tested the electronics...
I'm running a Scotty puller and a Scotty downrigger.  I'll check the puller each half hour and the DR every 15 mins.
I troll with a 9.9 Yamaha High Thrust and the main is a Yamaha 150.
I run between 25-27 mph cruising which is 4200-4700 rpm.
The starting battery is a small that will fit under the bait well and the house battery is a big one.  There is a Blue Sea ACR in the circuit and a Blue Sea switch.
The batteries charge when running the boat but I don't usually run it for more than an hour at a time.  It seems that the voltage drops when the boat sits so maybe there is current loss when everything is turned off.  How would that be checked?
I have hooked up a 1.5 watt solar panel directly to the house battery and it seems to hold a charge better when the boat is sitting.
It's in the water 24/7 so not available for battery chargers.

2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

croaker stroker


To test for current loss, I remove the Positive cable and connect a test light between the positive battery lug and the cable.... Should be no light.

1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

Hydroman

Do you have the auto bilge pump without a float switch?  If so the pump will start at a preset intervals, if it detects that the pump is loaded (pumping water) the pump will run until the current (amps) decades to the no load current (amps) value and shut down.

Over time this will discharge the battery.

Jim
17 Sea Chaser (sold)
21 Skip Tower (sold)
27 Thunder Jet OS (sold)
22 Thunder Jet OS

Markshoreline

Nope and that's why I don't run that system.  With a lot of rain the pumps will kill the battery.
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

DevMah

Quote from: Croaker Stroker on August 22, 2017, 11:59:54 PM

To test for current loss, I remove the Positive cable and connect a test light between the positive battery lug and the cable.... Should be no light.

That's the same way I do draw tests.

Install a 12v test light
If lit then
Start pulling fuses or wires till you isolate the circuit.


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

Markshoreline

Ok I'll do that next.   Seperate tests for house and starter, right?
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

polarbill1999

I would rig up some sort of digital voltage gauge at the dash that can switch between your 2 banks.  What you likely need to do when running the shrimp pots is to start the main and run at something more than an idle to actually keep up with the draw from the shrimp pots. 

Starting the day with batteries that are less than 12.5 or so is normally going to be pretty bad.  This isn't a cheap option (~$200) but gives a lot of good info.  http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/power-accessories/linklite-battery-monitor.aspx
Brett
1996 Sea Chaser 16 the "Rhumb Runner"
70hp Envinrude VRO
6hp Tohatsu 4 stroke

Markshoreline

My 33 year old son is getting married at our home on Saturday so I've been pretty busy for the past couple of months getting prepared for the event.  Monday, I'll dig into the boat.  Haven't got out but a couple of times to fish!
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

DevMah

Quote from: Markshoreline on August 26, 2017, 10:52:03 PM
Ok I'll do that next.   Seperate tests for house and starter, right?

Yes
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

top

Quote from: ATGEP on July 21, 2017, 03:58:14 PM
What was the voltage with the main running? Is this checked using a multimeter or a dash gage? I am guesing it should be close to 14v and the batteries should link via ACR. Since your main starts and the charge circuit uses the same wire, safe to say that is not your problem. Look at everything under the cover for corrosion loose wires, etc. Next I would reference the factory shop manual for troubleshooting. If you dont have one ,you will have to decide if it is worth it to get one (ability and willingness to work on your own motor). Last resort is take it to a shop and break out a boat buck.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Boat Buck, new one for me
To funny  :jester:
Bob...
Live to ride and ride to Live

Diablo

Quote from: top on September 03, 2017, 10:39:14 PM
Quote from: ATGEP on July 21, 2017, 03:58:14 PM
What was the voltage with the main running? Is this checked using a multimeter or a dash gage? I am guesing it should be close to 14v and the batteries should link via ACR. Since your main starts and the charge circuit uses the same wire, safe to say that is not your problem. Look at everything under the cover for corrosion loose wires, etc. Next I would reference the factory shop manual for troubleshooting. If you dont have one ,you will have to decide if it is worth it to get one (ability and willingness to work on your own motor). Last resort is take it to a shop and break out a boat buck.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Boat Buck, new one for me
To funny  :jester:
Bob...

Break
Out
Another
Thousand
'98 19SR  '15 E Tec 115, '10 Honda 8
'67. 23 Tollycraft, 283 Chevy
'04  14' Western, '15 Tohatsu 10
'87  37 Roughwater two 8.2 Detroit diesels SOLD
'88 17SR  '90 Johnson 90, Honda 8, SOLD

cohosalmon

I had a battery issue once as well and it turned out the rectifier of the F100 alternator was shot and therefore battery not getting charged by main motor. Just check if voltage during main motor operation is 14V+. If not it's likely your rectifier as well. They do burn out from time to time my mechanic told me.