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Help Trouble Shooting Power Flickers

Started by mm916157, June 11, 2017, 09:06:55 AM

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mm916157

I am finding that when I am driving fast through chop my chartplotter resets. I think all of the power on the boat goes away for a second.

What advice is there to systematically investigate the wires, fuses and all connections from the battery to the fuse panel.

HemiGTX

You're on the right track.  Start at the battery and work out from there.  Inspect, clean, tighten, replace as required.  It's great fun.
AKA: "The guy who fishes with Nicole"

StreamFixer

Dielectric grease is your friend with 'exposed' connections.  Be sure the butt connectors are heat shrink and have the 'hot glue' that seals the wire entering the connector if you have to replace.  Use marine grade wire.  You are not saving money using automotive grade wire.  If you are not familiar with wiring, you may wish to read the Marine DC Wiring 101 found at http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=10167.0

StreamFixer
'01 Hewes Sportsman 18
'14 Yamaha 90
'01 T8 w/ solas 4 blade
'19 Minn Kota 80# (Alterra)
'97 19SC w/ Salt Boss Top


"By the grace of God we travel upon the rivers and sea..
They, like He, are mightier than me."  Mike Jesperson aka 'Nalu

DevMah

Quote from: mm916157 on June 11, 2017, 09:06:55 AM
I am finding that when I am driving fast through chop my chartplotter resets. I think all of the power on the boat goes away for a second.

What advice is there to systematically investigate the wires, fuses and all connections from the battery to the fuse panel.

Yes this is the correct approach I would recommend making a hand sketch or labeling the wires/connections as you go through them so that you don't miss anything.

Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

ATGEP

The first thing I would do is tie in a volt meter to your fwd power panel and go for a ride. It should allow you confirm if it is a main feed problem or a branch circuit problem. Once you confirm the problem, then you can wiggle wires until you find the trouble spot.

Old No7

Quote from: HemiGTX on June 11, 2017, 09:59:14 AM
...Start at the battery and work out from there.  Inspect, clean, tighten, replace as required...

I always add a stainless steel split ring sized to fit each battery post; it helps keep the connections tight, and it's also solved several "gremlins" that were troublesome on my friends boats too.

That may not be the solution, but it sometimes is; and it does help for sure.

Old No7
"A bad day on an Arima, is better than a good day at work!"

jetdoctor

On my 1994 Arima, I found that all of the main battery cables had little cuts in the insulation.  This let salt in which caused corrosion--almost all the way through.  The cables that come on the Arimas are automotive, and the copper wire is bare.  Add current, and bad things happen.  A couple of twists, and they were in 2 pieces.  No wonder it took both batteries to start the engine. 
I was taught to look for wire problems with a volt meter.  With the power on, and wire connected, attach a volt meter between the ends of the wire and look for voltage.  If voltage is above 0 then the wire has excess resistance in it, and is probably bad.  If the meter reads battery voltage, then the wire is open.  The only better way to check wires is with a megger, but most of us do not have these available.  Checking for continuity can be misleading.
Cheers,
Doug