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2 battery set up NEG...Help

Started by TJ Arima, March 31, 2016, 11:45:26 PM

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TJ Arima

 :shrug9: I'm loosing it. Too many drawings and homemade schematics. Quick question, when you hook up your 2 batteries back aft, do you use separate black cables from each battery NEG to a bus bar or do you just jumper from one battery to the other then to NEG buss bar? Thanks
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

First Cabin

Either should work, but suppose one battery went bad and you had to remove it.  Would you still be able to function?
First:  1982 15' SeaHunter, Yamaha 70 2-stroke, Yamaha F6
Second:  1987 17' SeaRanger, Merc 90 2-stroke, Yamaha F8
Current:  2002 17' SeaChaser, Yamaha F100, Yamaha T8

TJ Arima

Quote from: First Cabin on April 01, 2016, 12:37:13 AM
Either should work, but suppose one battery went bad and you had to remove it.  Would you still be able to function?

Hmmm.. Good question, if I wire as using jumper, one battery goes kaput, I might not have enough cable to get the other to the buss bar. Might not be bad idea to wire both to buss bar then.... Thank you
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

DevMah

#3
Both my of my  negative post on the batteries are daisy chained, I only have one connection to my negative bus bar from both my batteries.
You could wire them separately as there is no issue doing it either way.

To answer First Cabins Question on TJ set up he would have to move the battery connections  regardless as he has a dedicated starting battery and dedicated house battery. His selector switch (5511e) keeps both batteries separated.

TJ I would still bring my engine negative (b-) cable to the starting battery directly, the negative bus on Hub 150 is not inadequate for that high amperage. (I called blue seas tech support they have the same thoughts)

FYI:

A 150 hp outboard could draw 150 to 200A on cranking, but the Initial "I rush"  In rush current is way higher and could be as high as the max cranking amps of the battery.


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

TJ Arima

Quote from: DevMah on April 01, 2016, 08:51:57 AM
Both my of my  negative post on the batteries are daisy chained, I only have one connection to my negative bus bar from both my batteries.
You could wire them separately as there is no issue doing it either way.

To answer First Cabins Question on TJ set up he would have to move the battery connections  regardless as he has a dedicated starting battery and dedicated house battery. His selector switch (5511e) keeps both batteries separated.

TJ I would still bring my engine negative (b-) cable to the starting battery directly, the negative bus on Hub 150 is not inadequate for that high amperage. (I called blue seas tech support they have the same thoughts)

FYI:

A 150 hp outboard could draw 150 to 200A on cranking, but the Initial "I rush"  In rush current is way higher and could be as high as the max cranking amps of the battery.


Dev

Dev, thank you for the heads up. I will run my motor NEG straight to Start battery NEG, then wire the House battery NEG to Bus Bar. Like this????
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

croaker stroker

#5
The least connections, the better.   (Connections on the battery post often corrode)

If you "daisy chain" , one of the batteries will have two connections (3 counting the buss bar)
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

TJ Arima

Quote from: Croaker Stroker on April 01, 2016, 09:58:20 AM

The least connections, the better.

If you "daisy chain" , one of the batteries will have two connections (3 counting the buss bar)

You lost me there. "Daisy chain" meaning wire in series like the picture right? I do like the least connection better. Definitely what I want to do. Thanks
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

DevMah

#7
Yes your drawing is correct!!
Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

croaker stroker

#8
In my opinion, (although not incorrect) battery posts are not the best place to make those connections. Just more chance of corrosion from battery acid fumes...and extra connection points for one of the batteries.





1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

DevMah

#9
Croaker

True... The fewer connections the better...

I wish Arima gave us a few more inches of working space back there.. I clean, inspect and tighten my terminals on the battery a few times a year.



Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

croaker stroker



Me too.....But if I were re-wiring my batteries, I would use a common buss bar.
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

DevMah

#11
He could go to a second common (b-) bus but I recommend one with a continuous rating of 250A or over (2127,2128 or even better 2104).
The one on the hub 150  is inadequate for larger engines starter draws.

:twocents:


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

croaker stroker


OK.....Here is a different question on the same subject.  I notice that the Blue Seas drawing shows an "earth" ground from the common buss bar. On previous boats, I have run a wire to a bronze water inlet.

I do not completely understand how this "Earth" ground is done on an Arima. ?? ....or for that matter, any outboard boat. Is this Earth ground made through the portion of the outboard that is in the water ??
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

DevMah

#13
You are totally correct!!
The B- lead is connected to the block of the outboard and the outboard to the water.

Some boats have AC and DC systems, we connect the Battery B- to the ground of the AC system.

This also a removes any rouge AC interference to in the DC system.

This only differs if you are using shore power then you need a wired return to ground.

Dev.

2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

croaker stroker



Guess they figure you will be hooking up the charger from shore power.  :shrug9:
1987 - 17' Sea Pacer - 2004 Evinrude 90 E-tec
1985 - 15' Sea Sprinter - **SOLD**

"Ex Tridente Pax". 🇺🇸

DevMah

Yes I believe so....

if the rectifier in the charger (diode) shorted then there is a possibility that AC stray current could get into the DC charging system. If this did occur then the path to ground would be present through the DC circuit.


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

TJ Arima

#16
Ok thanks Dev and Croaker. I have the bus bar 2303 with rating of 150a so I'm guessing I'll just follow my drawing as the bus bar is not enough to handle my NEG side.  How about this one
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

TJ Arima

Nevermined my bus bar is not even rated for these :facepalm: dang it
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

TJ Arima

Guys, how about on my first drawing instead of going to bus bar, just go straight from house to safety hub negative? Not much supplies here in Sitka so I gotta make due but in a safe way. Please see my first drawing thank you very much
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

DevMah

TJ

On my arima  I have it wired the following


-Engine Negative wire connected  to Start Battery Negative pole
-A jumper/interconnect wire between both battery negative poles (Start and House)
-House battery negative pole to my Hub 150 Negative bus bar.


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

TJ Arima

Thank you Dev, I will have to wire mine like yours as I don't have necessary parts available to me
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140