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Which Add-A-Battery Do I need??

Started by ponche, March 08, 2016, 09:26:31 AM

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ponche

Time to add the ADD-A-Battery system by Blue Sea, but which do I need, the mini or the large, hmmmm....

I have a SR 19 with a Suzuki 140hp, no kicker (yet); what do you experts think?

Thanks guys
1999 19' Sea Ranger
Suzuki 140hp
Yamaha 8hp

DSCS

The  65Amp 7649 mini should be fine. I used the 7650 primarily to get the remote LED to indicate when the batteries are combined.
We're most of us liars, we're 'arf of us thieves,
an' the rest are as rank as can be,
But once in a while we can finish in style
(which I 'ope it won't 'appen to me).

DevMah

I believe your alternator output is 40A so the 7649 is more than adequate. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/Mini_Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_65A

If you want to do a all in one Charger, Switch and ACR go with the 7655.  https://www.bluesea.com/products/7655/Mini_Add-A-Battery_Plus_Kit_-_65A

The 7650 will also work.

Tight Lines


Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

ponche

Thanks for the input guys. Great stuff, as always
1999 19' Sea Ranger
Suzuki 140hp
Yamaha 8hp

TJ Arima

Quote from: ponche on March 09, 2016, 10:52:56 AM
Thanks for the input guys. Great stuff, as always

Ponche, when you wire yours up, can you send me some pics. I too have a SR19 HT with 140 Suzi and two batteries. I have a Perko 1, 2, 1+2, OFF Switch and I want to remove and add ACR and the Dual circuit switch and Blue Sea 150 on mine. Thanks
Island Time
1992 Sea Ranger 19 HT
2012 Suzuki 140

ponche

Will try and remember TJ Arima. Not sure if I'll be doing it ASAP, though.
1999 19' Sea Ranger
Suzuki 140hp
Yamaha 8hp

ponche

Now my next question; where have ya'll been putting your two batteries?? Besides the normal two spots in the aft? On one side I've put my fuel/water separator, as it was to large to put where the original was mounted and I plan on putting the add-a-battery system on the other. Where in the world do the batteries go? I suppose I could put the system and w/f separator together on one side, but I'm not sure the other is large enough for two batteries. Not to mention the fact the trim would be off... Help!

I've seen where someone mounted them in the cuddy of a 15', but I've got a 19' SR and don't really want to run the full length of the boat with that heavy gauge wiring. That and as an aircraft electrician, I've had experience with overheating batteries and I wouldn't feel comfortable sleeping on top of them:(
1999 19' Sea Ranger
Suzuki 140hp
Yamaha 8hp

58Johnson

#7
Blue Sea has a new product I would look at carefully if I was doing an Add A Battery/ACR project. It is called a: BatteryLink® Charger. It is a charger and an ACR combined. Note: Max alternator output is 65amp for this system. (This is part of the kit mentioned by DevMah)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7605/BatteryLink_Charger

2002 Sea Chaser 15 11
Yamaha F70 Yamaha F8

T-Rex

That thing is Expensive and Bulky.
If your planning to add a kicker with a decent charging circuit you don't need an acr, ever.



Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

DevMah

#9
I do not think it is bulky...or expensive... here is a comparison with a Guest 10A charger

The dimensions of the Blue seas (7605) are Length 6.66 inches X 4.36 inches wide X 2.13 inches thick  http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/dimensioned_drawing/7605.pdf
The dimensions of a Guest 10A (28210) Charger are Length  5.5 inches x 7.8 Wide X 2.4 inches thick. http://www.marinco.com/en/28210 (click on tech data tab then download the spec sheet)

The Blue Seas unit is smaller and includes the SI ACR built inside.

Price Comparison:

Blue Seas all in one (7605)    $169.   http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289963&id=3212006

Mini ACR  (7601) $55.99  http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289976&id=2264350

Guest Charger (28210)  $164.99  http://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--chargepro-waterproof-battery-charger-10-amp--14981914


The 7605 works out cheaper...

You pay for what you get... :twocents:

FYI:
A electric start kicker with a 12A output alternator will only output 5-6 amps at trolling speed, the motor will require up to 1-2 amps to self power itself. Unless you run full throttle you wont get the 9-10A.

Pull start kickers usually output only 6A at full throttle so at trolling they just provide enough to self power itself.

Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

T-Rex

Nice compassion.
When you put it like that it doesn't seem bulky OR expensive ? some good points there for sure....
Guess it comes down to how the boat will be used ( which we all failed to ask the op ).

For my simple little dual battery trailer queen its not needed, i have a 12 amp kicker,electric down riggers,plotter,vhf & stereo.
Having the boat wired up to run either engine or house load with either battery without combining is how i did mine.
I watch the voltage supply on my plotter screen, with the main motor i also see the alternator output.
When i get home and put a trickle charger on either battery it reads 100% pretty much right away or within 5 mins every time, 12.9-13.1 volts.
If i ran the risk of draining either battery down on a regular basis i would install a charger recommended by the battery manufacturer themselves.

Pull starting a kicker if need be is a nice option as well.

I guess an onboard charger or acr might come in handy for a moored boat,  or if you camp out using alot of amp hrs, even then you would need to cruise on the main long enough to charge that second bank back up.






Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

DevMah

#11
T-Rex

In your case you are able to replenish what you use with your kicker as it has up to 12A output at full throttle.

Lets say you are trolling mid range rpm with your kicker producing 5-6A... the engine uses 1A to self power...leaving you with 4-5A to use for your accessories.

Now if you had a pull start or a kicker that only produces 6A output at full throttle. While trolling mid range rpm you would produce 2-3A... the engine uses 1A to self power...only leaving you with 1-2A to use for your accessories.

I use a ACR and Charger as my kicker is only outputting 6A at full throttle, there is no sense for me to add the kicker to the charging system as it is not worth doing.
I run back on my Main leg and allow the ACR to combine and charge both batteries. All of my accessories run off the  secondary battery the primary is only used for staring the main. I can also use the secondary or combine both batteries to start the Main leg.

Best Wishes

Dev
2015 21' Sea Ranger w 150 Yammy  (Tight lines) Sold
2012 Lund 1650SS  w 2012 60HP Mercury-Sold

T-Rex

I'm with ya Man....
Sounds like you gotter figured for sure....

Adding the second battery is definitely the key !!!
Without it there is no acr or multiple switch discussion.
So good on the op for doing the upgrade....


:beerchug:
Sea Chaser 17, Suzuki DF90A

blindmonkey

#13
I agree that including the manual start kicker charging circuit doesn't really make sense with 2 batteries and acr. I wired mine in last year and then noticed late in the season that the quick connect in the cowling had disconnected. I'm thinking of just removing the circuit.  :twocents:
Lorne
2013 17' Sea Chaser, Honda 90, Yamaha F8 SOLD
1994 Sea Explorer, Mercury 60, SOLD

Hydroman

On my 21 SR that I previously owned I had Suzuki DF 140 main and 8 hp Honda kicker with pull start, I believe max. charging on Honda was 8 amps.

I had 2 batteries with a manual isolation/combine switch.  I never thought that I could justify an ACR.

I wired the kicker charging circuit thru the normally closed contacts of a relay that was energized when the main was running,  this prevented the two charging circuits from ever being tied together.  I used a plug in relay, cost less than $15.

17 Sea Chaser (sold)
21 Skip Tower (sold)
27 Thunder Jet OS (sold)
22 Thunder Jet OS