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Buying SeaChaser 17--what options from dealer make sense?

Started by acercher, September 15, 2015, 01:37:15 PM

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Markshoreline

Sorry about that Pickles!  You had the only pertinent comment in that entire string so sorry it went to the other discussion along with the bathwater.

Thanks for reposting your comments here.
2002 Sea Ranger HT 21, Yamaha 150, Yamaha 9.9

Fishin Machine

Electronics , trim tabs, at least a 90HP and kicker. Are the things I would get on 17"SC. The tables have changed.

http://defiancetackle.com/index.php/arima-boats-parts/outboard-motor-well-table.html
DDT
2003 19' Sea Ranger

whale

If you are buying what on the lot, it maybe same to add option at purchase and after.
I would ask for prop exchange, 4blade or until you are happy with it.

If you are ordering from scratch.
Anchor roller that holds an anchor.
Larger cleats.
Position of pedestal seat. I find mine is too far back, also turning it to face rear, it hits the side panel.
Some things you want to have done before all the holes are made.
2014 Sea Chaser 17, Yamaha F90, T9.9

amazing grace

i don't know if a hatch is an option on the Chaser or cushion's for the cuddy space are either. I know it is smallish but I would want both anyway, but I am a Ranger guy :smile1:

I am with pickles. The 75hp propped correct will be fine, especially with two on board most of the time. If the 90hp is >$500 I would go that way otherwise I would use that money towards quality electronics.

A real anchor nest is pretty important.

Take a hard look at the trailer. I had a Shorlander trailer under a 17' SR I used to own and it was a real nice trailer compared to the easyloaders I have had. Much stouter. Maybe oil bath hubs, led lights, quality wiring, roller vs bunk. Tire and rim size. You only get one shot at the trailer. Figure out what you want the first go round. It will make a big difference.

buying through defiance could have big benifits if you are local and are not real handy.:wink:

Good luck, sounds like you are on the right track. :arms:
1989 22' C-Dory Angler

1997 19' Sea Ranger hardtop with Alaskan bulkhead

La-Z-Buoy

Quote from: Fishin Machine on September 16, 2015, 08:57:59 PM
Electronics , trim tabs, at least a 90HP and kicker. Are the things I would get on 17"SC. The tables have changed.

http://defiancetackle.com/index.php/arima-boats-parts/outboard-motor-well-table.html

My table is "notched" like that. I'm not sure where the change was made or whether they used to or still make two different styles. The "full" table obviously has more room but interferes with the raising the motor more.
Richard

2001 21' Sea Ranger HT
2017 DF 140 Suzuki, Honda 8

pgbrown

I picked up my boat last year about the same time as Joe.  A 17 Sea ranger, I did go with trim tabs and I can say yes I use them alot and they make a big difference even here in the sound.  I did not however get the skip top.  It came down to being able to fit in the garage for me.  Although I cringe every time I see a nice Arima with the skip top.  Definitely think about the skip top. it is something that you will appreciate if you have one and have skip top envy if you don't.  Plus it will cost significantly more do add after wards.  I went with a pedestal seat for the operator and a box storage seat for Port.  I have a Ranger and the dance floor is small anyways compared to the Chaser so you might be able to get away with the same set up as Joe and be perfectly happy.  If I had gotten the Chaser I would have went that way.

I am pretty heavy on the back end with the 90hp Honda and 9.9 Honda kicker but when it is calm I can get up and go with the best of them.  I can trim for either port to starboard for the added weight and when it's a bit rougher using the trim makes a huge difference..  For electronics do as the others say and go to West Marine and play with all the models and see what might work for you.  I went with the Garmin touch screen and it is great.  You will love your new boat, you deserve it after all. 



2014 17' Sea Ranger
90 hp Honda
9.9 hp Honda

acercher

Great input from everyone.  Thank you.

There seems to be a consensus to upgrade from the 75hp to the 90hp four stroke.  The cost to upgrade the Yamaha motor and the labor for the dealer to install it is about $1,100.  That seems a lot if I'm not going to be carrying 4 heavyset fishing buddies, a kicker, and depth charges for fishing.   But...what makes me think it might be worth it is the effect on resale value at some future point--if most people in the know want a 90hp motor on this boat, then the way to appeal to the broadest pool of buyers and get the best price down the road is to pop for the 90hp now.  Does this make sense?

A lot of people favor the skip top, for understandable reasons.  I'm kind of boggled by the price for some metal rods and new plastic curtains (about $3,000), so that's a no go for now. 

Almost everyone likes the trim tabs, and I want the smoothest ride for my wife, so I'll probably get the hydraulic trim tabs ($850) offered by the dealer.  (I do understand that if I had the foresight to invest in my own welding equipment I could do it more cheaply myself). 

Yes on the outboard counter-top, no on the jump seats and portapotty.  The electronics wait for Marine West.  Probably yes on the extras for the bilge and battery, which I don't understand, but they're pretty cheap and sound worthwhile.  My thanks to Kimbrey for pointing out the need for all the safety equipment and miscellaneous bumpers, ropes, etc. that everyone else has already accumulated over the years.

Final question: I assumed I was going to be garaging the boat, but it turns out that I can moor the boat for say the six "summer" months for less than $150 a month.  However, does that mean I should get the "moorage cover" that the dealer is offering for about $930?  Or is that unnecessary if I lock the electronics in the cuddy and zip up the plastic cover?

Thanks again for the warm welcome and great advice.


Threeweight

That is an awesome price on moorage.  I find that when I moor may boat I get out and use it way way more often than when I have to trailer it.

Mooring cover keeps rain out of the boat.  A very very nice thing to have if you will be leaving the boat in moorage for long periods.  Arima's are not self bailing, so any rainwater that gets in has to be pumped out by your bilge pumps.  Batteries die = no more bilge pumps = flooded boat.  Arima's won't sink, but they can get enough water in them to ruin electrical components.  You can probably have one made by a custom canvas maker (like our very own Gary/CanvasGuy) for less than the dealer wants, but the color may not be an exact match for the rest of the top.

In addition to the cover, if you moor you are going to need bottom paint, to keep nasty stuff from growing on your boat.  Check into the dealer for cost on that.

A word in defense of the skip tower... Canvas tops wear out, and need to be replaced.  Skip towers don't (though the side panels may).  That extra $3k up front sounds like a lot, but when the canvas top needs to be replaced, you will end up spending $2500-3000 on a new one.  If you leave the boat in moorage, fully exposed to UV rays for 6 months a year, expect to need a new top in 6 to 10 years.  In terms of resale value, a skip tower boat will sell for more, and sell faster, than one without.   Price marine-grade, heavy gauge stainless steel tubing and you will see why they cost so much.  :twocents:
Former Sea Chaser 17 owner
Defiance 250 Admiral, twin Yamaha 150's and T9.9

"Never turn your back on fear. It should always be in front of you, like a thing that might have to be killed."
       --- Hunter S. Thompson

Hydro-Therapy


One more plus to the skip tower is that you have a place to mount radar and rocket launchers without the addition of a arch ($800). Also a cool way to mount your other electronics without having them clutter your dash.

  H-T
Fish forever Work whenever !!!!!
"89" 19SR Keith 115 Merc. 15 4s kicker W/trollmaster Raymarine A70D

StreamFixer

Regardless of all these other items, IMHO the MOST important thing for you to get from the dealer is marine grade wiring.  None of that automotive SAE bare copper conductor crap.  It will not cost much compared to all the rest of the items you are discussing and you will thank yourself for doing so starting in about 5 years and continuing as long as you own the boat.

That single element seems to be the most troublesome for our members.

The mooring cover seems to be costly.  My mooring cover for my 19SC ran around $400.  Talk with CanvasGuy about that number.  He performs wonders with canvas.

StreamFixer
'01 Hewes Sportsman 18
'14 Yamaha 90
'01 T8 w/ solas 4 blade
'19 Minn Kota 80# (Alterra)
'97 19SC w/ Salt Boss Top


"By the grace of God we travel upon the rivers and sea..
They, like He, are mightier than me."  Mike Jesperson aka 'Nalu

GregE

If you're getting electronics ( and maybe  safety gear) etc from West Marine- sign on for their new boat owner deal.  ONe time price break for that kind of stuff
Greg
2005 SL 22 Honda 225 Kodak II
http://www.sagecreekforums.com/phpforum/index.php
Sold:Osprey 26 LC Kodak;  Arima SR 19 HT, Arima SE 16 WeeBait; SH 15 WeeBoat; SR 21 NoBait;  SL 22 ReBait

amazing grace

boat=break out another thousand.

new boat=break out another $8  thousand

when trying to figure out how you want it :wink:
1989 22' C-Dory Angler

1997 19' Sea Ranger hardtop with Alaskan bulkhead

Browneye

I thought I wanted the Yamaha too, definitely 90, and they are about $650 more than Honda or merc of same hp. Hondas get rave reviews, are almost identical spec, weight etc., so I ended up with one as that was on the boat that was the best deal I could find. Initial trials proved to be just outstanding.

Trim tabs don't require any welding, but if you aren't a DIY'er then yeah, have them installed. Btw, wife probly won't notice the diff.  :wink:
Chris Brown
Orange County, CA
'15 SeaChaser 17 - NEW!