Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Open Forum / Re: Drum brake life in the salt?
« Last post by Hunter on Today at 10:11:45 AM »
I religiously and thoroughly spray down and rinse my entire boat and trailer with HOT FRESH water as soon as I get back home... with special attention to the brakes!   Everyone should have a Hot Water mix valve in their driveway.    Easy to install especially if your water heater is already in the garage.   Great for boats, dogs, trucks, dive gear, etc...

When launching (Almost always at Everett) they have a couple of wash down hoses and if one is available I do a quick rinse of the trailer brakes and winch before parking.   If I'm going to be out more then the day then I also spray down the brake parts with SaltAway concentrate mixed in a bug sprayer..

I have SS Kodiak surge brakes and even though I would prefer EOH......they still work fine.    My guess is that there a lot of folks out there who think they have working surge brakes........but they don't.   The way to check is to disconnect your trailer wiring from your to vehicle and try to back your trailer up a small incline.  If the surge brakes are working you should not be able to back uphill with the electrical disconnected...

https://www.amazon.com/SA32-Salt-S-Away-32oz-Concentrate/dp/B00144EOLC/ref=asc_df_B00144EOLC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312148125047&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16718267917595092030&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033404&hvtargid=pla-428037629424&psc=1


2
Open Forum / Re: Cab over and boat towing ??s
« Last post by Norcalfish80 on Today at 09:33:59 AM »
Could just get a bigger truck with higher payload rating. I doubt anything bad will happen, but running anything near the maximum capacity is going to be really hard on the vehicle be that towing capacity or payload capacity.
3
Open Forum / Re: Cab over and boat towing ??s
« Last post by headduck on Today at 09:21:48 AM »
Thanks for the sanity check PB.

So far I'm not over payload capacity which is just a bit over 3000 lbs.  I believe.

We have the build sheet for the camper and know we will be under that wet, but not by much. No slide outs etc. Tanks are fairly small.

Point certainly well taken and has been a constant consideration.

Who's knows, maybe we wont tow the boat or look for a slightly smaller camper.


4
Open Forum / Re: Drum brake life in the salt?
« Last post by headduck on Today at 09:08:18 AM »
Certainly encouraging brothers. Thank you.
5
Open Forum / Re: Drum brake life in the salt?
« Last post by SanJuanIslands1 on Today at 08:45:27 AM »
I installed a rinse system like Hydroman, have had drum electric brakes for years. Yes they rust, but so do other parts of a disk system with EOH pump. And I had one of those systems once. I am for KISS system. Replacing backing plates is easy and pretty cheap. I just got another pair, thinking it was like $ 160 bucks or maybe it was less. And you have full control of the braking via the in cab controller, and it is easy to feel if there working by testing with cab controller only rolling along at about 25 to 30 mph on a side street.
6
Open Forum / Re: Cab over and boat towing ??s
« Last post by polarbill1999 on Today at 08:30:17 AM »
Be careful.  Sounds like you have a pretty heavy camper.  My guess is you are probably going to be 1000# over gvwr, maybe even before adding the trailer tongue weight and additional truss/stinger.  Pretty sure those older super duty 250s have real low payload capacities.  Especially when they have the diesel.  Probably 2000-2500 pounds. 

I mentioned this in the other camper thread but most seem to way underestimate the weight if their camper and the manufacturers are dishonest.  If your camper has a 2500#dry weight you are probably 3500# ready to go.  Some of this is just conjecture since I don't know your camper.

All that said, I am sure if you make sure to do heavy duty sway bars, airbags (or similar thing), etc... you can probably make the truck "capable" of working but it will always be over the stated limits.  I would hate to cause an unsafe scenario and/or have insurance deny claims if something dud happen. 

As someone else said, the limiting factor is a lot of times the capacity of the rear axle (which is usually based on tire capacities). 

Another thing to possibly look I to is using a weight distribution hitch if the trailer tongue weight lifts up the front end too much. 
7
Open Forum / Re: Drum brake life in the salt?
« Last post by Hydroman on Today at 08:19:49 AM »
My replaced the complete backer plate with all hardware and shoes after being in service after 4 years.  My adjusters and shoes were shot at that time, brake drums were fine. There was no flushing system, I did spray with hose after each trip.

It was cheaper to replace the complete unit than just replacing the worn parts.  Replace parts has a more rust resistant coating than original ones.   I installed a DIY flushing system on the new backing plates and I've they have been in place for 10 years with no problems.  I pack bearing and lube adjusters with anti seize ever other year and flush with SaltAway after each trip.

My flushing system is made of 1/4" plastic tubing and plastic fitting with a quick connect fitting fastened to each fender.

Jim
8
Open Forum / Re: Cab over and boat towing ??s
« Last post by headduck on Today at 07:10:19 AM »
Yeah...it just looks like a corrosion nightmare.

I keep leaning toward the disc, but its gonna be a hard sell considering all the bonus expenses that come with the camper... but if it makes sense it makes sense.

I took off the drums for a reason.... :)

Just looked... seems they are submersible but rec'd to disconnect before doing so...

9
Open Forum / Drum brake life in the salt?
« Last post by headduck on Today at 07:06:41 AM »
Anybody have long term success with drums and salt? Long term is relative as we all know salt kills everything but the fish.

I can fashion a rinse system, but even so, how long do folks get out of a set...not just pads but the whole deal?

2-3 seasons and then a rebuild or do folks see more/less?

Trying to figure a little cost vs hassle of adding electric drums vs discs

Electric drums -initially easy and cheap but requires more long term attention @ $300 ($200+ new galvi drum hubs 75 ish brake kit)

 or

Electric Over Hydraulic discs - more complicated but more robust and much easier to rinse @ $1500 (9-1200 is actuator system, 300+ rotor, brakes, lines)

If I can get a reasonable life from the drums I can do a full swap at $75 a set every couple years with bearing maintenance etc.. lots of years to get to $1500... but that's only if I can get a reasonable useful life.

So. Have the drums worked for you and if so what's your secret?
10
The one in the Craigslist link is NOT “High Thrust” despite the sellers description. His model number is F9.9 vs T9.9 fro HT. Also, the prop looks to be the high speed variety, not the one with the larger/flatter blades. Can’t tell for sure, and it’s a clean looking kicker, but “Buyer Beware.”
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
Menu Editor Pro 1.0 | Copyright 2013, Matthew Kerle