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Arima Forum => Arima Life => Topic started by: Hunter on November 15, 2014, 10:24:49 AM

Title: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 15, 2014, 10:24:49 AM
Hi Folks.. 

Now that the boat is here in the shop, we are working on the checklist of several "fixes" that are needed.   Probably the most important is to repair a stress crack that is on the transom.   Might be hard to explain but this resulted from the motor being raised two inches with a block when installed and then when tightened,  the outside of the  "clamp" pressed against the metal trim piece on top just enough to move it slightly forward to cause the crack.  Any thoughts on how I can repair this?    Or.... if I should just take it to a pro and have it done?

One suggestion was to use a Dremel to create a "V" along the crack and then fill and seal.. 

As always, advice is appreciated.

(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/IMG_0798_zps3c08f8c0.jpg)

(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/IMG_0797_zps4c61a890.jpg)

           
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: First Cabin on November 15, 2014, 10:44:02 AM
I'd send these pictures to Don at Arima and ask his advice.  Hard to tell what this crack means, but I can't imagine how to properly fix it without removing the motor.  Then again, maybe Don will tell you it is just cosmetic.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Markshoreline on November 15, 2014, 04:51:34 PM
The crack probably doesn't make the transom weaker- I've heard Don quoted that a transom has never failed on an Arima.

On the other hand, if it bugs you because your boat is otherwise pleasing check into pricing for repair.  Wouldn't surprise me if it would run $1k.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Salmon King on November 15, 2014, 05:32:52 PM
The crack probably doesn't make the transom weaker- I've heard Don quoted that a transom has never failed on an Arima.

On the other hand, if it bugs you because your boat is otherwise pleasing check into pricing for repair.  Wouldn't surprise me if it would run $1k.

Oh Cabazon...

I regret to inform you that you have inadvertently caused irreparable damage to your boat and you would now be miles ahead to junk it and go write a check for a 2015 model direct from the factory.  BTW...I'd like to be the 1st in line to take that junked out hull off your hands.  You may however feel free to remove anything you feel might assist you in setting up your new boat!   :biggrin:

Seriously...I doubt this is structural in nature but I would want still this repaired if for no other reason than peace of mind (even if it is just an eye sore) and I'd have to agree with ej on this...Best to send these pictures to Don and get his take on it.  I also agree that no matter who does the repair...that motor is coming back off.

Keep us posted please...
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 15, 2014, 06:27:48 PM
As always....  thanks for the input and opinions.   Sounds like it might need more than silicon caulk and duct tape.   My initial inclination is to just suck it up, pay the piper, and make it like new.   But I also don't have a problem with Dremeling out the crack and sealing with Marine Tex if that's really all it needs.   

I guess my first question is.... How do I contact Don?   All I can find on the website for Arima under "contact us" is an email for... sales@defianceboats.com.

Thanks!     Hunter

 
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Threeweight on November 15, 2014, 06:57:14 PM
Call the Arima/Defiance number on Monday.  Don doesn't do email.

My suggestion would be pull the motor, dremel the crack into a "v", then fill with color matched gel coat.  It is above the bolts (and stress points) for the motor, so I doubt it needs anything beyond that.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: good times on November 15, 2014, 07:09:49 PM
Belinda's number is 13606747098. She can get you in contact with Don..
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: SRanger on November 15, 2014, 07:22:09 PM
Be nice to know what really caused it.  Is the block still in place, appears to be.  At what hp do the larger motors take 2 bolts up top.  MY 130 has 4 total...2 up and 2 at the bottom.

If you can get Don to work on it you will never know it was there.  Provided it doesn't come back with use.  And he can repair any dead holes previous owners left.

SR
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Chief of the Boat on November 15, 2014, 07:41:48 PM
When was the motor installed?  Running WOT does the crack open up?  It looks cosmetic, if it was a new boat the crown cap would cover that crack. What hoses are clogging the transom drain holes?
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Markshoreline on November 15, 2014, 09:13:56 PM
Yeah, you can do it yourself with the dremel and color matched repair.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 16, 2014, 01:13:38 PM
Be nice to know what really caused it.  Is the block still in place, appears to be.  At what hp do the larger motors take 2 bolts up top.  MY 130 has 4 total...2 up and 2 at the bottom.

If you can get Don to work on it you will never know it was there.  Provided it doesn't come back with use.  And he can repair any dead holes previous owners left.

SR

As for what caused this, maybe this pic will help to explain.   I'm guessing that the previous owner used the block to raise the motor just enough to match up with the previous mount holes.  Can't think of any other reason to raise the motor 1 1/2 inches.  By doing that, the top of the outside bracket (meant to be flat flush with the outside of the transom) just barely touches that metal trim cap.   Also, that metal trim cap is slightly rounded in the back rather than a flat "L" trim piece. 

So...... when the bracket was torqued down, the top of it pushed against the metal trim piece and the stress caused the crack.   


(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/TransomCrackCause1_zps168b9d33.jpg)
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: amazing grace on November 16, 2014, 01:38:35 PM
i agree, get that checked by Defiance and have them evaluate and fix. I do not like the look of that. It might be only cosmetic, but I would want to know for sure. Hopefully our board experts are correct. My mind goes to dark places when I see things like this. Not to worry you of course.
keep us posted.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 16, 2014, 05:42:39 PM
Doesn't seem like the aluminum molding would crack the fiberglass the full length of the transom like that. Maybe a previous repair ?
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: AlAdams on November 16, 2014, 08:20:32 PM
When my Honda was new I couldn't keep the boat from porposing unless I trimmed it out all the way. I had the dealer move the motor up on the transom about 2". No more porposing.  It's my guess that's why the previous owner raised the motor up on your boat.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Markshoreline on November 17, 2014, 04:57:14 AM
It's hard to imagine that is a fiberglass separation- I'm thinking its just the gelcoat.
I tailed my motor up one set of holes after the prop mfgr told me the weight at the transom had the prop too low in the water.  It does perform better now.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 17, 2014, 11:56:18 AM


I had to move mine up which improved my top end speed/RPM .  The cav. plate is above the bottom of the transom about 1/2".
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: LvrWurst 21 SR Skip on November 17, 2014, 01:51:11 PM
Cabezon....
Before doing any repairs to your glass....consider this info......
What's with the wooden block?
To me, it appears the person mounting the engine, shimmed it with full weight of motor resting on the block....drilled and bolted it to the transom. I can see that possibly with the weight of the motor combined with low mounting point where OB mounts hit the alum trim....there is some leverage there causing the cracking.
Never seen a 6 bolt-up mounting like that.....

Likely you do not have cracking on the inside at the top of the transom.....Yes / No?

Whether a new installation or repower, my shop always uses a 1/4-3/16 thick aluminum backer plate between engine mount and transom....this provides a sound base ...covers caulked (5200) old holes and would eliminate engine mount from resting against transom trim.
Doo Dad
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 17, 2014, 06:56:36 PM
Once again... thanks for all the responses and opinions.   

LvrWurst...  You may have something there.   I was curious  that you would point this out.....   so I went out to the boat and I can actually move (wiggle) that wooden block so there is most definitively no current load bearing... and the reason for that very well may be that the "load" was there at the time of install and then was "relieved"  and the crack resulted.   

Where we are now is that I spoke with Belinda this morning and she had me email her the pics so she can get an opinion from Don.  By the way... I may be new to the Arima world and for all you veterans I'm probably not telling you anything you don't already know......, but I can say without hesitation that Belinda is the real deal.  She is knowledgeable, accommodating and just flat out a darn nice person to talk to.  They are lucky to have her there and we are lucky to have her on Team Arima.   

As soon as I know more... I'll post it up.

Hunter

   
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Markshoreline on November 17, 2014, 07:16:21 PM
Yep, that's old news...  Belinda is amazing as we all know!!!!
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: amazing grace on November 17, 2014, 07:19:09 PM
Just curious Hunter. Did you know about this when you agreed to purchase it? If so, was there discussion about it before agreeing to purchase it. Obviously it is none of my business, so if you do not wish to disclose I understand. I am just curious.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 17, 2014, 07:49:59 PM
No problem AG..    Yes, I was aware of the crack at the time of purchase.    The owner of the boat had passed away and I bought the boat from his son who had "inherited" it... so no one knows for sure exactly what, why or when this happened.   I took the son at his word....  Also my initial assessment and decision at the time was that the deal was good enough to take the gamble that it was cosmetic and could be repaired at a reasonable cost and/or effort.   
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: amazing grace on November 17, 2014, 08:15:28 PM
Thx H,  do keep us posted.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Markshoreline on November 17, 2014, 10:37:58 PM
  The boat sounds fine, but needs a bit of tweaking like every boat I've ever owned!
You have a good ride there don't worry too much just fix it and forget it.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Yachter Yat on November 18, 2014, 04:31:48 AM
Hi Cabezon:


   It pains me to say this, but that crack is never going away; even if repaired.  I'm certain you'll see a "fine line" return at some point.  Consequently, after making the repair, you may want to consider covering the area with an additional piece of trim of some kind. I'm thinking perhaps a thin strip of polished aluminum.  I agree with others with respect to the integrity of Arima transoms, so what we're talking about here is primarily cosmetic of course.

Yat



   
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 18, 2014, 03:40:43 PM
Great news!!!   

Just heard back from Belinda.    Don has confirmed that the crack is cosmetic only and not structural in any way..  His advice is to fill it / seal it / cover it.     Also, he is sending me pics of another boat (not an Arima) with the same exact crack issue in the same place to show what he did to repair and cover..   

Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: pgbrown on November 18, 2014, 03:43:32 PM
Great News ! They folks at Arima :applause: are the best
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: GregE on November 18, 2014, 04:12:22 PM
Good to hear!!

I met Belinda a couple times at the Auburn Arima shop.  Her guided tour of the facility pointing out the construction methods really helped understand how Arimas hold up so well.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: BayWolf on November 19, 2014, 09:20:30 AM
Just curious. Did Don recommend a fix for the motor mounting which may have caused the cracking?  I'm sure your not going to keep that block under it?
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 19, 2014, 09:31:12 AM

Whether a new installation or repower, my shop always uses a 1/4-3/16 thick aluminum backer plate between engine mount and transom....this provides a sound base ...covers caulked (5200) old holes and would eliminate engine mount from resting against transom trim.
Doo Dad

+1

....or trim the molding.  Either way, the motor needs to be dismounted.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 19, 2014, 08:43:10 PM

Whether a new installation or repower, my shop always uses a 1/4-3/16 thick aluminum backer plate between engine mount and transom....this provides a sound base ...covers caulked (5200) old holes and would eliminate engine mount from resting against transom trim.
Doo Dad

+1

....or trim the molding.  Either way, the motor needs to be dismounted.

Not according to Don and Belinda..  As a matter of fact, when I asked about how best to fill or seal the crack, here is the exact answer I received....

Don actually had a couple of suggestions.  There is no need to fill.  With the aluminum transom cap you have, add our new black plastic trim over the edge to cover or with more work, remove aluminum trim and replace with black transom cap and also put the another one over the edge (just like with the aluminum).  The next email you get from me will show 1) new boat with vinyl transom cap, 2) New boat with new transom cap with the second piece put on to cover an inch below the other cap, and 3) a piece of the transom cap from a back view.

Also... I guess another question is...... Does Arima use an aluminum plate on new... or repower installs?   If not, why not? 

I admittedly don't really know any of you folks on this forum.... so as convincing as some folks might sound,  I'm naturally more inclined to go with the advise of Belinda and Don.   
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Markshoreline on November 19, 2014, 09:23:52 PM
I'm curious about what the crack was caused by and how significant is it and how to resolve it.  What issues may occur because of it's original creation?

How does putting a black cap on it resolve whatever the problem was?

Maybe this advice is just saying that it is a normal thing and the cap will keep you from looking at it?  However, I'm still curious about why it's there...there's not one on my boat and I haven't seen it before in my years on this forum.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 19, 2014, 09:40:13 PM

Whether a new installation or repower, my shop always uses a 1/4-3/16 thick aluminum backer plate between engine mount and transom....this provides a sound base ...covers caulked (5200) old holes and would eliminate engine mount from resting against transom trim.
Doo Dad

+1

....or trim the molding.  Either way, the motor needs to be dismounted.

Not according to Don and Belinda..  As a matter of fact, when I asked about how best to fioll or seal the crack, here is the exact answer I received....

Don actually had a couple of suggestions.  There is no need to fill.  With the aluminum transom cap you have, add our new black plastic trim over the edge to cover or with more work, remove aluminum trim and replace with black transom cap and also put the another one over the edge (just like with the aluminum).  The next email you get from me will show 1) new boat with vinyl transom cap, 2) New boat with new transom cap with the second piece put on to cover an inch below the other cap, and 3) a piece of the transom cap from a back view.

Also... I guess another question is...... Does Arima use an aluminum plate on new... or repower installs?   If not, why not? 

I admittedly don't really know any of you folks on this forum.... so as convincing as some folks might sound,  I'm naturally more inclined to go with the advise of Belinda and Don.

Glad to see you got it resolved.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Yachter Yat on November 20, 2014, 04:23:07 AM
Kinda what I said............cover it.   Only thing is, some kind of sealant (like Lifeseal) might be advisable.

Yat
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 20, 2014, 07:41:48 AM
Thaks for everyones help and advice.  The crack is not a problem.  It is cosmetic only.  How it happenned is no longer a concern to me.  The general consensus is that torqing the mount clamp against the aluminum trim cracked the gelcoat.  It is amazing what you can do with Macro camera shots these days so I can say that the crack has been thoroughly examined.

Any, I'm down to two options of what I'm going to do.  Both options will include me dremeling out the crack to mor workable "V" shape and filling with Marine Tex.... or possibly even some color matched gelcoat that Belinda can get her hands on for any year Arima.  Both options will utilize the new black vinyl transom cap trim that Arima is currently using on all new boats instead of the aluminum cap that is on my boat.  The trim is simple "L" with 1/2 in on the short leg and 1 in on the long leg.   Belinda is shipping it to me today.  $20 for all I'll need including the shipping.  "THANKS BELINDA!!!!!"

Option 1...... Suggested by Don is to simply apply the new trim right over the aluminum cap with the short leg on top and the longer leg to cover the crack.   Not sure how that will look, but it'll be easy enough to find out before attaching.

Option 2...... Remove the wood block and loosen the mount bolts just enough to completely remove the old aluminum cap altogether.  Then apply the new vinyl trim with the long leg on top and short leg over the edge..  Then apply a secon piece of the same trim with the short leg on top and the long leg to hide the repair. 

Here's some factory pics sent by Don and Belinda..

(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/20141119_072133_zps541dc7dd.jpg)

(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/20141119_072213_zpsb569642d.jpg)

 
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 20, 2014, 10:33:05 AM
Unless I'm not understanding your explaination, neither solution addresses the problem of the motor bracket mounted on top of the trim molding. (As MarkS pointed out)

Judging by the crack, your bracket has moved (loosened) since it was installed. JW's observation of the "extra" upper mounting bolt is evidence that someone was trying to "fix" that problem.

Your bracket will never be truly tight unless you either remove the molding from under the bracket, or shim your bracket away from the molding (Aluminum plate was suggested), allowing your bracket to be flush and tight against your transom.

This is my opinion. Take it...or leave it.  You are not the only one with this problem.


Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: BayWolf on November 20, 2014, 10:45:13 AM
So, the motor was raised leaving the top edge of the mounting bracket free floating (well, a block of wood shoved under it)?

For my education, why would a motor be mounted like that?  I can't recall ever seeing something like that.  Seems like it would put an awful lot of downward stress on the mounting bolts?

Always learning.  Thanks.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 20, 2014, 11:01:20 AM


The cavitation plate of the motor needs to ride on top of the water. If, when your boat is on plane, your cav. Plate is under water, then it needs to be raised for max performance.

Not sure why?  Remember the Arima transom has to fit all motors. Better to make the transom too low than too high.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: ak-angler on November 20, 2014, 11:03:48 AM
The motor isn't supposed to sit on the transom, or on a block of wood that sits on the transom. The bolts are plenty strong enough in shear to support the weight of the motor. The vast majority of bolt-on (as opposed to clamp-on) outboards are mounted this way.

The issue in this particular situation is the thickness of the transom cap trim, and how it interferes with the 'flats' on the motor mount brackets. I thought I was going to run into the same issue when I installed my DF90A. In my case, it ended up being a non-issue, as there was just enough clearance to snug everything up with the anti-ventilation plate at the height I wanted without the motor mounts actually touching the trim piece. But, any higher, and I would have had to install a spacer plate to set the motor back about a quarter of an inch.

(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac157/ak-angler/Boat/Suzuki%20repower/Transomcapclearance.jpg)
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 20, 2014, 11:06:41 AM
AK, ....you've got a nut loose.   :jester:

That's a good pic to show the issue.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: ak-angler on November 20, 2014, 11:10:57 AM
 :bigshock: :bigshock: :bigshock:


Ha! That picture was, of course, taken during the installation process. At this point, I believe that the only loose nut on the boat is the one that connects the steering wheel to the helm seat. :redface:
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: BayWolf on November 20, 2014, 11:13:45 AM
Got it!  Thanks!

Always learning.
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Wyrguy on November 20, 2014, 11:15:53 AM

AK, ....you've got a loose nut.

That's a good pic to show the issue.

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/20/0d95ccda79256e582b1379b5a8421691.jpg)

Rick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 20, 2014, 11:22:45 AM


No disrespect unintended.   :jester: :arms:
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on November 20, 2014, 01:22:03 PM
The motor isn't supposed to sit on the transom, or on a block of wood that sits on the transom. The bolts are plenty strong enough in shear to support the weight of the motor. The vast majority of bolt-on (as opposed to clamp-on) outboards are mounted this way.

The issue in this particular situation is the thickness of the transom cap trim, and how it interferes with the 'flats' on the motor mount brackets. I thought I was going to run into the same issue when I installed my DF90A. In my case, it ended up being a non-issue, as there was just enough clearance to snug everything up with the anti-ventilation plate at the height I wanted without the motor mounts actually touching the trim piece. But, any higher, and I would have had to install a spacer plate to set the motor back about a quarter of an inch.

(http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac157/ak-angler/Boat/Suzuki%20repower/Transomcapclearance.jpg)

This post and picture by AK explains the issue of the "crack" exactly.   IF.... AK's bracket had been just slightly higher, it would (could) have pressed against the trim and casued the crack.  It also explains why in most installs.... none of the motor or bracket is bearing on top of the transom.     Thanks for that pic AK..... much better than the one I posted.   
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: dbhazjack on November 20, 2014, 01:34:05 PM
It would appear that the mounts are designed for this reason in mind!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/20/4fafe7ba738e4aebac237fb7d1c4cbaf.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Wyrguy on November 20, 2014, 01:44:12 PM
Hunter, maybe comparing a SL 22 to an SL 22 might help??? Here's how my 250 Yammie is mounted:

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/20/1ac7992279537ce87db86931f8f84e41.jpg)

Also, before Arima was merged with Defiance, none of the boats were rigged by Arima. It was the dealers mounting the O/B's so you're going to get a whooooole bunch of different combinations!!!

(Not my boat, but showing the two bottom bolts shipped from the factory in a 19' SR)

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/20/70a4b6622e3b048c1338f7adad310a9e.jpg)

My dealer hung my 250 off of the bottom two bolts then adjusted the height to ensure the anti-ventilation plate (commonly miss-labeled as an anti-cavitation plate!) was level with the bottom of the hull. That's when the upper two bolts were then placed and tightened.

Rick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: LvrWurst 21 SR Skip on November 20, 2014, 08:19:31 PM
Refresher Course about OB Motor Mounting Height:
My 2 cents...a shim plate mounted between OB Bracket & Fiberglass Transom would have eliminated this cracking issue.
Respectfully submitted: J. Doo Dad

"What determines best position for mounting outboard motor?
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/76306-outboard-mounting-height.html
“We hang alot of Suzukis they want the plate 3/4" above the bottom. You do not want it below the hull or when you are on plane it will spray water up the transom.”
TIPS:
The overall height of an outboard motor from the top of the housing to the bottom of the skeg is not important. The only height measurement you need to worry about when selecting an outboard for your boat is the height of the shaft. If the shaft is too short, the propeller will lift out of the water when the boat is on plane. If it's too long, the additional length creates drag under the water and limits the boat's top speed.

Read more: How to Determine Outboard Motor Height | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7833867_determine-outboard-motor-height.html#ixzz1oMVoBUz6

1
Measure the distance from the top of the transom to the bottom at the tallest point.

Read more: How to Determine the Mounting Height for an Outboard | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8072136_determine-mounting-height-outboard.html#ixzz1oMVSruFu
2
Measure the outboard from the top of the mounting clamp to the bottom of the anti-ventilation plate. This will tell you the shaft length on the motor. The plate should be level with the bottom of the boat.
Read more: How to Determine the Mounting Height for an Outboard | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8072136_determine-mounting-height-outboard.html#ixzz1oMVLvTJp
3
Calculate the difference in the motor's shaft length compared to the boat transom. A boat with a 20-inch transom being mounted with an outboard that has a 21-inch shaft length should have the motor raised by one inch.
Read more: How to Determine the Mounting Height for an Outboard | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8072136_determine-mounting-height-outboard.html#ixzz1oMVFvF1M
You can adjust the height of the motor for better performance. If you raise the motor so the ventilation plate is above the bottom of the boat, the boat will have better stability and higher speed at the cost of control torque.
Read more: How to Determine the Mounting Height for an Outboard | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8072136_determine-mounting-height-outboard.html#ixzz1oMV546pf
Most outboard manufacturers have recommended mounting heights listed for their motors. Check with the manufacturer to see which motor best fits your boat.
Read more: How to Determine the Mounting Height for an Outboard | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8072136_determine-mounting-height-outboard.html#ixzz1oMUxcvL6
The outboard must be mounted high enough so that the exhaust hole is not underwater. It should be at least one inch above the water line at idle speed.
Read more: How to Determine the Mounting Height for an Outboard | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8072136_determine-mounting-height-outboard.html#ixzz1oMUlVuaD
Title: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Wyrguy on November 21, 2014, 11:40:41 AM
CS, I've sent you a PM now that you're question to me here has been deleted... :-(

Rick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Croaker Stroker on November 21, 2014, 12:04:25 PM
CS, I've sent you a PM now that you're question to me here has been deleted... :-(

Rick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry, here it is again, for the benefit of others....

"Wyrguy,

Looks like yours is shimmed out using indiviual spacers.  I was thinking of two slotted shim plates so they could be slipped in from the side without dismounting the motor.

Or is that just an optical illusion ??"
Title: Re: Repairing Fiberglass Stress Crack
Post by: Hunter on April 04, 2015, 03:15:10 PM
Not sure of anyone is still interested in this old thread..... but after looking at my crappy seal job on this "ass crack", I finally decided to bite the bullet and just have it done right.   Ryan at Performance Marine at Everett did the work and the color match on the gelcoat.  The pics here don't do his work justice.  His work is a spot on match and perfect.  I was also able to get a few other dings and some old transom holes taken care of.    Total cost, including the R & R of the Suzi 250 was $900.....  but now it's done right and good as new! 

(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/IMG_0882_zpsp5vh7pkc.jpg)

(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii155/scubalab/Boats/IMG_0884_zpsaj8likbt.jpg)