After commercial fishing for salmon, tuna and bottom fish on an Arima for the summer I have learned a few things about what works and what does not work.
The most important thing I learned is space is important; you had better use it wisely.
This summer I had a half tote tied to each side of my 21 foot Arima. The storage was enough for the boats weight capacity but it caused some space issues for me.
1: In order to reach my outriggers I had to stand on top of my totes. While I set up my boat in the driveway this did not seem to be a big issue. Once I was on the ocean, in sometimes less than flat conditions, I did not like being on top of the totes with my hands busy working the gear, which left me with no hands to hang onto the boat.
More than once while trying to lower or raise my outriggers I thought I was going to fall out of the boat. :shark:
2: Once I filled the half totes full of fish and returned to port I had to drain the totes into my boat which than caused me to have to pump all the water, blood, and fish gunk back out of my boat by using the bilge pumps. (this caused my bilge pumps to plug up all the time and stop working)
3: When bottom fishing with poles I was not able to stand next to the side of the boat because the half totes were in the way. This limited me to standing in the back of the boat.
To fix these problems I decided to have a custom made tote designed for my boat.
So I do what I usually do when I have to do something with my boat. I sat in my boat and looked and thought about what I needed to do. I got a pencil and a yardstick and started drawing lines on the floor. I might have had a beer to.
The box I designed will actually have two boxes with one inside the other and the gap between the boxes being filled with foam.
The box will have a removable baffle inside the box so I can manage my ice a little better by moving it around a bit as I start stacking fish at the bottom of the box.
The box all also have a built in screen to block debris from getting into the pump. The screen is removable so it can be cleaned.
The box will have a pump that will be mounted to my boat under the custom made tote inside my fish box that is built into the floor of my boat. Once I'm done fishing for the day I will be able to turn on the pump and pump the water, blood, and fish gunk outside the boat.
I am having North West Custom Boats out of Silverton, Oregon build the box for me.
(They built my outriggers for me also)
The box is square in the back and has a V shape in the front so I can walk around the box and get to the front of the boat. This will give me enough room to land tuna and salmon in the back of the boat while still allowing me to walk around the outside of the box and fish with a pole for bottom fish.
I'm also adding pulleys to my outriggers so I can lower and raise them with a rope with my feet on the floor of the boat.
The box isn't complete yet but here are a few photos of the box while it is being built.
I will post more photos as it is completed and placed into my boat.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-181015091244.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-181015114441.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-261015101330.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-261015101239-7466979.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-261015101232-74821158.jpeg)
That's pretty cool Walt. Looks like you found a good welder.
Keep the pictures coming...
:yeahthat:
Looking forward to seeing everything in place and working, as I am sure you are.
StreamFixer
Looking good...anxious to see it done!
Here are a couple more photos
The inside dimensions of the box is 39 inches from from to back and 29 inches deep.
On the end that is "V" shaped the short end is 14 inches.
This end of the box is forward towards the seats. It is like this so I can get around the box to get back to the helm.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-311015091157-7504853.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-311015091155-7503428.jpeg)
Wow. That looks nice. How many average size tuna do you think you'll get in it?
When I was using two half totes I got 36 fish one time in the two totes. I think that is about average if the fish are not all pigs.
The two half totes have approximately 20,000 cubic inches of space.
This new box has about 38,000 cubic inches of space. (when my son gets home I will have him figure it out for me exactly :cha:)
Im thinking that depending how they stack in the box, I should be able to get at least 50 fish in the box. (maybe more)
One box takes up less room than two boxes because it has a lot fewer sides and ends than two boxes in the boat.
I am thinking if I have two good fishing days and can fill the box up twice next year it will have paid for me to invest in this new box. :arms:
I found a good welder but he likes to hunt deer and I am not sure how good of a hunter he is. He has been spending all of his time out hunting.
He has been working on my box for about 2 months. (probably 3 days out of 2 months)
Once he gets the box built he is going to drill holes in the bottom of the box and pour a mixture into the walls of the box that dries and turns into insulating foam.
Looks solid.
What about the lid?
The lid will be a shoe box type lid.
The lid will have a smaller shoe box lid that can be removed to put a fish inside the box without removing the entire lid.
The smaller lid when removed will leave a hole the size I need to sit the plastic tub that is in the below photo.
This way when I'm salmon fishing I can sit the tub in the hole and use it to store the fish inside of until I am done working the lines and then get to cleaning the fish so I can put them inside the box with the ice.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-040615210113.jpeg)
Very innovative, I'm looking forward to seeing pics of the tote when installed. Thanks for the updates!
Yep! I like your thinking!!
I got to put the new fish tote into the boat for the first time today.
I was really happy the way it fit and how much room I have to walk around the outside of the box now.
In the below photos you can see how the box will fit into the boat.
You can see a pipe that comes out the back of the box inside the boats built in fish box.
The pipe is for the one inch drain hose that will be connected to a pump that will be installed in the boats built in fish box to pump the water out of the new metal fish box.
You can also see a plastic tote sitting on the lip of the metal box. The lid will have a spot for this tote to sit inside of when I am salmon fishing. This will give me a spot to put the fish while I am working the lines and before I get a chance to clean the fish and put them inside the metal box where the ice will be.
The box has 1.5 inches of insulation that we poured into the cavity after the two boxes were welded together.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-151115095831-75851791.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-151115095829-75831230.jpeg)
really nice layout, well thought out. Super job! I am sure this will be much safer then your previous set up. Way to go!
Way cool DUDE :clap: :bowdown: :clap:
StreamFixer
Nice Work !! :clap: You are going to have to FISH HARD to fill that. :jester:
Bandaid and I met Walt at the I 205 Fisherman's to bring the green 1/2 Totes North.
Hope to see Tunacious in action next season.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v367/Kodak45/Boats/Ar%20Walt_zpsid9htkd6.jpg)
I grabbed a shot of our trucks while walking .... Should have stopped to do them justice.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v367/Kodak45/Boats/Ar%20W%20Trucks_zpsmozps2wk.jpg)
It was great meeting Greg and his wife.
Now that the green half totes are gone this new fish tote better work.
I think it's going to work great. The placement seems like the weight distribution will be good.
I have lots of projects I'm working on before spring.
Installing a on shore power supply system with aittle advice from Full Pull.
I also am getter my rid of the single spool gurdie system I had last year.
I ordered a set of double spool Simplex gurdies I found in Juneau Alaska.
Im going to be mounting the electric motor I purchased from Buck at EZ Pull to the set of simplex gurdies.
I am super excited. My set up will be way better this coming year than it was least season.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-151115141335.jpeg)
Looks great Walt! Great design!
It's funny what a little context can do for a picture! The fish tote looked way smaller in your original pics.
-Shawn
Wow looks great on the boat!!! I talked to Robin about the build "we are in the same trade" and he was saying how nice it was. I look foward to seeing it in action with some blood in the box. Seems very well thought out Walt. Good job.
Need2bleed,
Robin always has great ideas to add to a project. Very helpful.
Robins son who actually does the work recently got married.
After being a newly wed he is not as motivated to get things done as fast as before he was married.
I am anxious to get my project done but I don't blame the guy.
After all its been cold and rainy outside where the boats at. :biggrin: (I would add a smiley face or something here but all the little characters are missing today on my computer.)
Smiley face was on my 'puter Walt :wink: SF'r
I took some recent photos of my new fish box for the Arima.
I really like the way it is coming out.
Im thinking I should coat the outside of the box with something. Any ideas?? :bowdown:
Below is a photo of the box with the lids all closed.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-140116090709-7721368.jpeg)
Below is a photo of the front hinged lid open
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-140116090706-77161986.jpeg)
Below is a photo of the removable rear lid upside down showing it is insulated.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-140116090710-77221721.jpeg)
Below is a photo of the box with the rear lid removed
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-140116090713-77231125.jpeg)
Below is a photo of the reason the rear lid can be removed. When I am salmon fishing my tote will fit inside the hole left after the rear lid is removed. This is so I have a place to put the salmon when they come on board and stay until I have a chance to clean them and put them inside the larger box.
There is not a lot of room to commercial fish on a 21 foot Arima. It takes some planning to get everything to work.
I didn't have the tub with the boat when the most recent photos were taken so that is the reason the below photo does not have the top on it.
This photo is just to depict where the tub will go.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-151115095831-75851791.jpeg)
As I have mentioned earlier there is a drain in the bottom of the fish tote and I will be mounting a pump under the fish tote inside the fish hold of the Airma to pump the water out rather than letting it spill into the bilge when I need to empty the fish tote.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-311015091157-7504853.jpeg)
Your fish tote is a cool project to watch unfold. The insulated lid was overkill in my opinion as the in-plane thermal conductivity of the aluminum is much greater than what is being prevented with the through plane conductivity via the insulation.
It's hard to tell but I suspect with the main tote constrution that you minimized the support points between the inner liner and the outer shell which would help a lot to isolate the two thermally. Still, it's aluminum which is very thermally conductive.
Looks good Walt! I would think having it coated with Rhino bed liner would be durable, protective, help add a little R value, be easy to clean and be a good non slip surface.
Very nice Walt. Always nice to see you continue to work over your Arima to improve it as a commercial boat. One thing that always comes to mind with the mods. Are you adding weight or reducing it? I am sure that is a big concern.
Looks great. Since it is aluminum, it will need to be cleaned with a mild solvent and primed with a good aluminum etching primer before you paint it with anything. If you can find it, I'd go with a flat, eggshell type enamel in tan or off white. Mix some sand or traction grit into it if you want the tote to be non-slip.
Black truck bed liner material will increase heat absorption (unless you use one of the varieties that can be tinted). But the tint kinds are more expensive.
Tuna you are doing some amazing upgrades to your boat. Don't forget to leave some room for the captain. :biggrin:
If you want the paint to stay in place on the Alu I would sand blast it first to give enough profile for the paint to stick.
Zinc chromate primer worked well on helicopters.
This box will take weight away from what I had of two half totes.
Also much more room. Less ends and sides.
The product I looked at is very flexible and has some decent texture on yet smooth.
I checked today to have a bed liner sprayed on. It will have to be washed and then itched with an aluminum etching.
The place I went to only does black.
The cost is $370
Looks like necessity is the mother of invention! I will be curious as to how long it will hold ice.
If I were to paint it, I would use some high build epoxy primer (like Petite Protect) and then you could have it shot with truck bed liner (Like Rhino liner). It is very tough and looks good, and comes in a wide variety of colors not to mention easy to keep clean.
Would black be a heat absorber?
Are you going to build a covers for the channel/hold that the box sits over. In my sure footed, reflexes like a cat self... I'd probably break my ankle.
Line X has six colors including white http://www.linex.com/pages/2010/bedliners/products/xtra.php
Quote from: GregE on January 14, 2016, 02:26:45 PM
Zinc chromate primer worked well on helicopters.
Is this stuff still available in the US, we can't get it any more her in Canada it works very well.
The stuff I looked at today was called Armour Liner.
The salesman told me it was more flexible and less porous than Rhino or Linex. (just what I was told)
The place I went to only does black but it can come in several colors but not white or eggshell type colors.
They gave me a sample.
It is flexible and smooth but yet does has a nice texture to give a ninja type person like myself good footing. :whistle:
Also consider Kiwi Grip. Water based polyurethane, designed for marine deck applications. You can put it on yourself with a spreader and a texture roller, and it comes in lots of colors. Last time I looked it was around $150 a gallon. Tough, and useful for any place you want a non-slip surface.
Here is the latest picture I have.
In the boat. :beer chug:
Now to build the fasteners that are going to hold it in place.
Maybe rather than spray the whole outside of the box. I should spray just the very front of the lid. I like to stand in this spot on top of the box so I can look over the top of the boat while the boat is in auto pilot. From here I can watch my gear while still watching for crab pots and whatever.
I suppose rather than spraying it I could glue a thin piece of rubber to the top of the lid in this place.
One of the reasons I wanted to insulate the top is it make it much stiffer and stronger so I can sit on it and stand on it.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-140116181046.jpeg)
That does look good, large but dance room around it. :applause:
I'd pad those back corners, I see a bruise a comin :bigshock:
One thing about smooth versus a textured finish the textured is much easier to clean. Some of the factories on the large pollock factory trawlers use a pebble board sheeting which is easier to clean so if you apply a coating I'd go with a texture.
The Kiwi Grip looks promising. (Thanks 3weight)
Im not actually building the box myself. (I wish I had the skills)
I am hoping to get over to where the boat is being worked on (NW Custom Boat Works in Silverton, Oregon)
I am anxious to see the box inside the boat and see just where my feet would be placed on the lid if I was standing on the lid looking over the top.
Im pretty sure I will just be putting some sort of coating on the lid. I see no reason why I would paint the sides.
Im finishing up my little store front room today in my shop. Then I can start moving all my equipment into the room.
I have really been procrastinating on the store front project. It is not nearly as fun as working on the boat.
I went and looked at the tote today.
I am very pleased with how it is turning out.
I am going to be able to flip the lid using the hinge to put ice into the tote when the cannery lowers the bucket of ice down to my boat rather than have to remove the lid and find a place to put it.
After standing on top of the tote I don't think I will be doing that like I used to. This new tote is much higher than my old half totes.
I don't think it is going to be real safe standing up that high on the tote with the motor in auto pilot.
With that said I am thinking right now I probably won't be putting any coating on the box.
If I put a coating on the box and it fails or cracks and gets water inside the coating I am going to have a real oxidizing problem.
I have seen people try to paint their aluminum and it will oxidize to point it almost turns into powder.
Here are a few more photos.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150116151035.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150116151308.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150116151339.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150116151413.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150116151446.jpeg)
Walt
If you don't put any kind of coating on the box, the surface will oxidize. Everything that rubs against it will then have a grey/black mark on it. If nothing else put on some kind of a clear coat. You might also think about glare. Perhaps a satin finish coating??? Gray?
StreamFixer
Do you think I need to spray the inside also??
I don't think you an interior coating is needed if the exposure is not for extended periods. Aluminum corrodes excessively when deprived of airflow, I.E. Close contact as in foam or other similar contact. If you leave the ice in there for extended periods then yes you will have problems. That is why I recommend the epoxy primer, Bomb proof and will last forever, not sure it is suited for food contact.
Walt, if you do decide to paint it check out this company....
http://www.tnemec.com
When I worked on building the fish lader at Wilamite falls we used a specialed epoxy paint from this company. They offer specialized solutions for about every aplication.
What are the straps for on the inside?
The straps support the sides and hold the shape while it's being moved around. Guessing they may have used during the welding
Yea. The straps were just for lifting the box. It isn't real heavy but hard for one guy to manage.
I'm back to thinking I'm going to paint it.
I hate the touch of aluminum.
I have called around and talked to several places that apply Linex on pick up beds.
So many choices I am hoping some of you will tell me your opinions. :bowdown:
I have several different options.
Some companies say they need to sandblast it first.
Some companies want to use an aluminum etching rather than sand blasting.
Some companies tell me the Linex Product is a polyurethane product so it reflects heat and I won't notice the difference between black and a lighter color.
Some companies want to paint the Linex after its been applied to the box and then paint over the Linex while it is still warm rather than use a different color Linex.
Several people told me the Linex product is a polyurethane product so it does not asorb heat but actually reflects heat.
They thought the black vs a lighter color would not make a lot of difference.
Does anyone here have any experience with this.
The rough quotes without actually seeing the box was $370 for the outside of the box.
I can add about $175 if I want to use a different color besides black. They have to drain all their hoses and wash everything up to change colors.
After all the work of designing the box and then having it built I don't want to skimp $175 and then not be happy with the box.
One guy I talked to was the manager of a canopy place who actually owns an arima himself. He only does black though.
One guy told me he could spray it with black and then while the linex was still warm he would spray some paint on it and it would stick really good.
The same guy told me it is best to sand blast the box so the linex sticks better.
Some of the guys are going to use an aluminum etch and not sand blast.
Another guy said he could spray it black and then spray it with some clear urethane and it would turn out gray.
I looked at building myself a heated paint room and using Kiwi Grip or another product but it is just such an unknown to me compared to Linex.
Im leaning towards going with a company that will sandblast it first and then I am not sure about what color or just go with black.
After rambling on here I hope some of you got to the end here and will give me your opinions.
Thanks,
Walt
Some general thoughts about aluminum and paints.
- Paints adhere best to well prepared surfaces. In the case of aluminum, it oxidizes quickly and you want it to. Paint will stick to the oxidized aluminum better than it will to straight aluminum just understand that even polished aluminum oxidizes quickly. The car rims that are aluminum are polished and then clear coated to prevent oxidation an thus losing that shine.
- Sandblasting increases the surface area that the paint bonds to. It's better than a chemical etch. Both will reduce the aluminum oxide surface to elemental aluminum but will oxidize quickly exposed to air.
- Ask about the top coat of paint to see if the chemistry is polyurethane. Polyurethane is a very durable polymer but it the top coat is latex, it would hold up as well.
- If they use black Linex on the fish box and then top coat with a light color, every scratch and nick will show the black and or aluminum through. A light colored Linex will only show oxidized aluminum through.
- Black absorbs infrared wavelengths which will heat your fish box more than a light color. I don't care what they say. Lighter colors reflect IR.
- Any coat of polyurethane will decrease lost heat because aluminum is a great thermal conductor.
- Even a light color with absorb heat. A polished aluminum surface will reflect more heat than a painted surface but then you'd need a clear coat to keep the polished surface.
- I don't see where polyurethane is a great reflector of IR heat.
I just had Line-X sprayed on my new pickup bed. They now have a new material that they spray on as a top coat. Suppose to prevent oxidation of the original material. Mine is very shiny. Suppose to stay that way.
I got black on black.
Wow, Walt, I get confused just reading all the options :redface: . This probably won't help but I've had the Linex outfit in Eugene do my pickup bed almost 3 years ago and absolutely no issues. Didn't do the top coat as I have a cover that stays in place.
One of the guys who built a boat like mine had them do the cockpit, and sheer decks. Good non slip surface and protects the area around the anchor locker.
everything you guys brought up makes perfect sense.
Thanks for helping me focus in.
Today I figured out the new box will have about 3,500 square inches more than the two half totes I had.
Better set up though.
cubic inches?? :shrug9:
That's 2.025 cu ft
Sorry. I did the math over. (Greg you were right not square but rather cubic inches)
The new box is 38,132.75 cubic inches
The old half totes were 29,827.5 cubic inches
That make the new tote 8,305.25 cubic inches larger.
With a lot more room to walk around.
OK, 22 cu ft vs 17 cu ft for the two totes.
I'm interested to see how many long fins will fit in there.
Walt,
I have a few questions about your fish box, forgive me if I seem dense...
When you get ice at the pier, do you load it directly into the box or do you keep it in a tote and add it as needed? This is my brain trying to understand your process, might have sniffed too much saw dust over the years :) Also, you have the box that recesses into the lid/cover. Is that to clean your fish, or are you using the one over the splash well? Do you put them in an ice slurry prior to packing them in the tote?
Canon,
When I pull up to the fish house they use a crane to drop a box down to me to put my fish into so they can hoist the fish back up to the dock they are standing on.
They then shovel ice into the same bucket and drop the bucket back down to me. The bucket has a latch on it that when released causes it to tip and dump the ice into my tote.
My old have half totes required me to remove the entire lid and then store the lid out of the way while I removed the fish and then dump more ice into the totes. The half totes also required me to remove the drain hole covers and let the ice and water run out onto the floor and into my bilge only to them have to be pump back out by using my bilge pumps.
My new box has a hinge on it so I can fold it from the back of the boat forward and then dump the ice directly into the tote. I can also fold the lid from the front to the back if needed. The new tote will also have its own pump to pump the water out of the box overboard with out ever getting into the bilge to later plug up my bilge pumps.
If you look at the second photo you will see inside the box a piece of angle iron welded on both sides of the inside of the box. I don't have a photo to show you but a piece of stainless steel plate metal slides into the box and is held by the angle iron so I can separate the ice into two different sections of the box.
Once I off load the fish I have only a couple of minutes to get the water and ice out of the tote before the new ice is coming back at me.
On a larger boat it is different they use a conveyer belt to get enough ice onto the boat and into their hold.
For tuna I leave the ice in the tote over night and am ready to leave early the next morning. When I start to catch fish I add water to the ice and make a slurry.
The ice the plant gives me is made out of salt water so it already has salt in it causing it to be very cold when I add more ocean water.
When I am catching salmon I also get my ice the night before when I off load my fish. I have been putting the salmon directly into the ice and packing the bellies with ice. I think I can probably put them into a slurry also if I wanted to.
The reason I built the recessed lid into the lid of the tote is so I can remove the lid and then place a plastic tote into the hole. The reason I do this is because when I bring salmon on board I have several lines I have to tend to as I check them and I need a place to store the salmon until I am done tending the lines and can get to cleaning the fish before I put them into the ice.
If the scales get knocked off the salmon I get docked in pay for not taking care of the fish. Because of this I can't just throw the salmon on the floor or into a bleed barrel like I do the tuna.
I plan on placing the salmon into the tub to start with and then once the fish are cleaned I will put them into the ice.
Because my Arima is so cramped for space I had to come up with a way to store my salmon until I could clean them. The removable recessed lid and the tub was what I came up with. In the below photos you can see that the recessed lid has stainless latches to hold it in place until I want to remove it.
Clear as mud?? :shrug9:
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-160216212318.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-160216212411.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-160216212509.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-160216212552.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-160216212632.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-160216212714.jpeg)
You would have made a great development engineer Walt...
StreamFixer
The below photos will show how the box will be secured.
I had a stainless plate attached to each side of the inside of the boats built in fish box.
On the back side of the plate is a nut welded on.
A hole is drilled through the side of the fish box so the nut will fit through the hole so that the plate will lay flat.
You can see on the bottom of the box is brackets that will bolt to the plates.
In the front of the box is a third bracket that fits inside the front recessed storage compartment of the boat.
It's designed like a key and should hold the box well without any brackets in the way.
You can also see I glued rubber to the bottom of the tote to save the gel coat.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-170216150238.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-170216150334.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-170216150422.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-170216151516.jpeg)
Looks good. Should keep it from sliding around.
That clears up the process! You obviously did some head scratching to come up with the design.
I found some time to do some work on my new fish box.
I ended up adding a coat of shark skin to the outside of the box.
Got the box into the boat and bolted down for the first time.
Also glued some rubber around the inside of the lid so it doesn't rattle against the box.
In the photos below you will see a screen that has been built for easy removal for cleaning. The screen covers up the drain hole that will have a pump mounted under the box inside the boats fish box hold to pump the water and blood outside the box.
You will also see there is plenty of room to walk around the outside of the box and still room for my drop down curtain if I need it.
The lid folds forwards and back. That is important so I can just fold the lid forward while unloading fish or loading ice.
The tub that is there is designed to hold salmon when Im salmon fishing has some UHMW bolted to the sides of the box.
The reason for the UHMW is because the sides of the tub are tapered and I don't want the tub to wedge itself into the hole of the lid and be difficult to remove.
The removable lid that removes so the tub will fit inside of had a stainless latch on both sides to hold it in place.
All I have left to do is install and wire the pump and then build a floor for over the pump.
I think this box weighs less than the two half totes I had before and will now hold about 50 tuna fish.
My old half totes held 17 cubic feet while this box that I can now walk all the way around will hold 22 cubic feet.
The way I have it bolt down it is rock solid.
Take a look at the photos.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181030.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181203.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181503.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181250.jpeg)
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(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316183116.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181412.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181328.jpeg)
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Coming right along Walt...
You will likely only find a couple of dozen things to alter (as opposed to hundreds) because of your persistence and attention to detail. :clap: :bowdown:
StreamFixer
Very impressive, it is obvious how much thought went into the design details.
Well it took me long enough to finally get the custom fish tote built, mounted and finally the pump mounted and wired.
Been busy with other boat projects.
Finished it up today though.
I even got the floor back so I can lift the lid and inspect the pump or get to my bilge pumps.
Below is photos of the pump mounted and the outlet where the water is pumped over board.
I used a Johnson diaphragm pump. This pump will pump scales and other gunk through.
If it enters one side of the pump it will exit the other side of the pump.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/8/248-260316155017.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/8/248-260316154450.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/8/248-260316154406.jpeg)
Walt, that is looking great. Really good job on making your boat safer and more suited to your commercial venture.
You have been busy! How is it fastened to the deck? I like the way everything hides, came out real clean.
Looks great walt! Idea...what if you put a T on the intake side of your new pump with two shut of valves and ran an intake line off the T down into the bilge. Then if the bilge plugs or fails you could open that valve to the bilge ,shut off the tote intake and have a bad boy bilge pump if needed? Just trying to make more work for you :biggrin:. That is a very well done project...nice work!
Canon,
Scroll down the page and you will see I posted photos of how the box is fastened to the boat. It is rock solid.
The pump is not super fast. I think it is 4.5 gallons a minute.
Looks really nice
Did you have to modify the fish box lids as well?
The fish box lids that come with the boat are riveted to each other.
I just drilled out the rivets on the longer side of the lid and then used the hinge to attach it to a 5 inch piece of UHMW.
The five inch piece of UHMW just goes back far enough under the box where it hits the down spout of the box. The new floor piece I built fits very good and not wobble or moving.
I kept the other piece of the floor just in case I ever want to put back to original.
Cool
Can't wait to see the box plugged with Tuna.
This is a great example of why this site is so cool. Although I'll never need a fish box like this one it is interesting to see the project unfold. Thanks for all the detail Walt! Hope you have a good season!
Thanks AlAdams,
I hope that my next photo will be of my fish box with fish in it.
Salmon season opens April 8th.
I have a few more things I have to get done before I am ready.