Part I.D. help - rubber strip under window

[AP]

I know I've seen someone identify the part before but I can't seem to find it now.  I'm looking the rubber strips that fill the gap under my hardtop windows.  I'm repainting the frames and would like to replace the 3 rubber strips too.

Thanks! 

[gliderflyer]

I'm pretty sure it's this:
Amazon link

[AJFishin]

Yes the link Gliderflyer posted is correct, AP Products 011-399 Flexible Vinyl Screw Cover, Black

It should fit, but Just know that certain year boats the vinyl fits either tight or a bit loose depending on the frames channel. Also don't use your original piece for length measurement as it probably has shrunk, so measure the inside the channel.
You're going to get a lot of this stuff, enough to do about 3 or 4 boats, so best to replace all of the vinyl screw covers on your boat.

[davidsea]

  The OEM stuff, which fit perfectly on the older (pre-2000) boats and was rigid enough to snap in place, used to be available from Taylor Made as a replacement part, but I don't see it listed on their site anymore.

[AP]

...best to replace all of the vinyl screw covers on your boat.

Excellent!  Thanks for the help in identifying the part. 

AJ, I'm trying to picture the vinyl screw covers you are referring to but I'm coming up blank. The screws that hold all the starboard in?  If so, mine all have white caps over them. 

[AJFishin]

...best to replace all of the vinyl screw covers on your boat.

Excellent!  Thanks for the help in identifying the part. 

AJ, I'm trying to picture the vinyl screw covers you are referring to but I'm coming up blank. The screws that hold all the starboard in?  If so, mine all have white caps over them. 

"Vinyl screw cover" is just the name given for that piece your a replacing. The strip is made of vinyl and it's purpose is to "protect" the screws for the window frames.

[Smcboating]

I am doing this same project on my 2003 SL. Have both the inside sides stripped but not the front or the outside yet. Let me know how things are going for ya. If your forced to buy a bunch of the vinyl cover material I can go in on it with you.

[fishmeister]

I am doing this same project on my 2003 SL. Have both the inside sides stripped but not the front or the outside yet. Let me know how things are going for ya. If your forced to buy a bunch of the vinyl cover material I can go in on it with you.

I know that AJ used to have some of this stuff.  But, "someone" bought him out last year (ummm  ).

[Yachter Yat]

   Just my opinion, but in addition to the rubber sealing strip, I think a small bead of black LifeSeal should also be applied to that seam, on the outside.  As I've posted in the past, I think the best way to do this is to use painter's tape to "control" the application. That would keep the caulking straight, narrow, neater and much less visible. My 2. 

Yat

[AP]

Thanks, AJ.  I plan on replacing all the strips up front but thought you were ferrying to other places it is used in the boat. 

Smcboating, I did have to order 50' of it that is supposed to arrive on Sunday.  I'll have plenty of extra if you want some.  I'm in Bellingham, WA but could ship it to you if needed. 

[DevMah]

Most newer Arima  Window's are made by Pacific Coast Marine Windshields.


https://www.pcmw.ca/company.php

https://www.pcmw.ca/aftermarket/

Dev

[fishmeister]

Most newer Arima  Window's are made by Pacific Coast Marine Windshields.


https://www.pcmw.ca/company.php

https://www.pcmw.ca/aftermarket/

Dev

A little off-topic.....I didn't know that Campion was still in business.  We had a 21-footer when I was growing up.  It was my dad's first brand-new boat.  I believe it was a '77.  Had a MercCruiser stern-drive powered with a 305 cu-in chevy.  It was a very solid boat.  Spent a lot of time riding around in the San Juan's in that boat.

[Smcboating]

Thanks AP. I live in east of Everett on Hwy 2. About half way to Steven's Pass. I'm sure I can meet ya somewhere or I'll probably head to Bellingham sometime so maybe I can just grab some then. I think I'm a little farther behind you in the project so let's see if that stuff works for you and then we could figure out a plan.

I've been striping the old paint off with paint stripper. I'm thinking about maybe hitting it with a basic hobbiest sandblaster.

[AP]

I thought about how to do mine and talked to a few people.  In the end, I settled on a middle-of-the-road solution. I've only done the sides at this point. I scraped all blistered and peeling paint, then sanded the rest of what was left with a high speed Brillo pad. Half the original paint was still there.  Wiped it all down with denatured alcohol and masked A LOT off.  To my surprise, it was suggested I paint with Rustoleum satin black spray paint. I was told I'd likely get no benefit from going with more expensive solution.  Touch ups, if needed, should be easy. And, in the end, it is a fishing boat that gets used hard.

The biggest downside are my spray can skills and the amount of masking required with spray paint.  I'm tempted to brush the frames around th front windows because it would be so much easier. 

I'll try to post photos when I get done and let you know how much of the 50' I went though but it shouldn't be much.

[Yachter Yat]

   I've always professed that those window frames should have been anodized. I believe the cost would have been relatively negligible, i.e., against the total cost of these boats.  From my experience, paint and salt has never been a marriage that lasted for very long. Notwithstanding hardtops, if anyone takes the time, and goes through all the trouble to remove an Arima windshield, they should seriously consider having those frames anodized. You'd never touch 'em again. My 2.   

Yat

[croaker stroker]

My experience with these windows is people are using stainless steel fasteners. Every place there was a stainless steel screw or snap there was corrosion. Every place there was a cad plated steel screw installed by the window manufacturer, there was no corrosion. I don't think the coating or anodizing would have made a difference 

[AP]

The part from Amazon doesn't seem exactly the same as what was on my boat but it works it still works. 

Here is the comparison of the two, upside down, with the original on the right.  In the original, the part that locks into the frame is slightly narrower and the outside of the strip is slightly wider than the part that locks in. It effectively lays flat.  The replacement strip is wider where it locks in so when installed, it convex in the frame rather than being flat.  It isn't necessarily better or worse but dealing with the ends of the strips is more difficult because they aren't flat.  I think they just need to be finished with some black silicone/lifeseal-type product.

[Smcboating]

Still looks great! Nice work. Did you use a primer before the spray paint? My frames have a little pitting so I was thinking I would.

[AP]

No primer. Just 2 coats of Rustoleum after scraping, light abrasion, and denatured alcohol clean up.  I think there are better ways to this project but this is the easy way.  I'm curious how it will hold up.  The time consuming part is the prep and masking. Adding the primer makes sense. 

[A_Jensen]

No primer. Just 2 coats of Rustoleum after scraping, light abrasion, and denatured alcohol clean up.  I think there are better ways to this project but this is the easy way.  I'm curious how it will hold up.  The time consuming part is the prep and masking. Adding the primer makes sense. 

Hello AP, your project is looking good.
My new to me boat has the same issue that I'd like to resolve as well.
I was just wondering though; did you also remove your sliding glass to strip and repaint the channels as well? Also, what paint stripper did you use?

oops sorry, I re-read your earlier posts and found my answer to the channel paint question. I just returned home from Harbor Marine and bought one quart of "Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover" to try out soon. Will report back on its success but highly doubt it'll be anywhere near as good as the old-pre 2015 Jasco paint stripper.

Thanks in advance,
Arne

[Nanserbe]

Another question for AP - did you add the gussets on there yourself?

I want to add some to mine, but not enough to remove the entire frame assembly to weld it off the boat...

[AP]

I didn't use any paint stripper... just a scraper, razor blade and light abrasion from a rotary tool.  Cleaned up with alcohol.

Yes, the gussets were added recently, by a local welder, just before the paint.  I had no interest in removing the whole top or frames so the welders were just very careful about it.  I skipped gussets on the inside front for this reason.   

I also had larger studs attached to the side mounts of the hardtop supports since one of the original ones sheared off.

[Nanserbe]

I didn't use any paint stripper... just a scraper, razor blade and light abrasion from a rotary tool.  Cleaned up with alcohol.

Yes, the gussets were added recently, by a local welder, just before the paint.  I had no interest in removing the whole top or frames so the welders were just very careful about it.  I skipped gussets on the inside front for this reason.   

I also had larger studs attached to the side mounts of the hardtop supports since one of the original ones sheared off.

Did they tig weld it?

[Tunacious]

Are you guys painting your window frames without removing your hart top?

I was under the impression you needed to remove the hard top.

My window frames need to be stripped and painted.

I keep looking at them wondering why I couldn't just do it without removing the top.