I have decided to go for it this winter, and move my batteries forward under my skippers chair. I had a 16x16x12 aluminum seat box made and I'm now wondering what the best coating options are. I'm considering having it powder coated or possibly zolatone. Any advice??? I'm thinking of just going white.
Coating?.....something that acid has no effect on. (Maybe truck bed coating, like LineX ??)
Yeah, I thought about linex. Not sure if I can get it in a different color than black. I'm planning on coating the inside of the box with rubber.
Others have said that Home Depot has something similar. Not sure how it stands up to battery acid ?
I'm planning on AGM batteries so hopefully I never have to test the durability of the coating against acid.
I have never spent the extra $$ for AGM batteries. From what I have read, they still vent. And they still require a vented compartment.
I'm going to install a 2 inch rigging hose to run the wires from the box to under the gunnel. There will be a bunch of extra space in that 2 inch hose so I'm thinking additional venting won't be necessary, but other opinions are welcome.
I would have it powder coated white. And then have them do a clear powdercoat as well.
Looks nicely made box .
I think this year I'm going to gel batteries as well.
Might have to move them into the cuddy cabin.
Couple of ideas. One AGM's still need ventilation, you might want a second vent to promote cross flow. Another idea to consider is adding battery acid nuetralizing mat material. This is popular in RV's. Might need to put a piece of Starboard to raise it a little to avoid getting it wet all the time.
I also think powder coat but make sure it is primed properly first. Mr :twocents:
Thanks guys. Looks like I'll try powder coating. Are there any vents on the market that are some what water proof like the ones used for fuel? I'd really like to be able to keep water out of the box when my buddies help with the wash down hose. lol
Why coat it?
Painting or powder coating aluminum properly is a bit more complicated than it might first appear. Needs an acid wash to remove oxidation, then an aluminum etching primer, then whatever coat you want on it.
Aluminum oxide is the dull gray color that aluminum takes on when exposed to the air (the color of Coast Guard MLB's). It's tough and self-heals, as long as it can get oxygen.
Paint and powdercoat look great when new, but give them a few years and they will start flaking/bubbling if the job wasn't done 100% correct.
Quote from: FishAddict on November 06, 2017, 09:39:50 AM
Thanks guys. Looks like I'll try powder coating. Are there any vents on the market that are some what water proof like the ones used for fuel? I'd really like to be able to keep water out of the box when my buddies help with the wash down hose. lol
That will be tough to do unless you want to go to the expense of having Louvre's punched into the side, or install plastic Louvre's... Make sure the lid is not tight but bends down over all the sides a half inch or so, (that will provide venting). Put some holes in the bottom to facilitate drainage and you will be fine. Put a latch on a couple sides if you deem that to be necessary. Weight of the seat will likely keep things in place.
I would not put on a hinge for a couple of reasons. 1) you would need to provide a place for the hinged lid and seat to swing when opened, 2) the hinge will take a hell of a beating when opened, 3) attaching with dis-similar metals will facilitate corrosion.
Water is going to get in there, from condensation if nothing else.
3WT is dead on with his recommendation. Over time you will appreciate his suggestion.
But, it's your boat -- Do as you deem best.
StreamFixer
It does have a hinge and will open fully towards the stern when I need access. The lid does have a 1/2" overhang so I will probably just drill a couple small drain holes similar to the Arima fiberglass seat box. Sounds like I need to ask the powder coating questions about the coating process prep before committing. In the mean time I'm going to finish the install and re wire with it as bare aluminum. Things are a tight fit with two group 27's, ARC, Add a Battery switch and buss bar, but I think I'll be able to make it work.
I also thought about wrapping the box in thin Sea Foam colored starboard...Purely cosmetic
Quote from: FishAddict on November 06, 2017, 01:08:50 PM
I also thought about wrapping the box in thin Sea Foam colored starboard...Purely cosmetic
One more coating suggestion, SeaDek.
http://www.seadek.com/c-5-sheet-material.aspx
Sea Dek will be 50% off on black Friday. I am squeezing the nickles in preparation.
StreamFixer
I had some aluminum seat boxes cerakoted.
It's a process the use to coat guns to keep them impervious to the elimants.
It's been two years and the boxes look like the day I installed them in the boat.
I took a chance doing the cerekote but I would do it again.
Well two years on your boat is equivalent to ten on most so cerakote sounds like another good option. Is it available in multiple colors? Do most places that do powder coating also do cerakote?
Quote from: FishAddict on November 06, 2017, 07:23:49 PM
Well two years on your boat is equivalent to ten on most so cerakote sounds like another good option. Is it available in multiple colors? Do most places that do powder coating also do cerakote?
Cerakote comes in lots of different colors.
People who do cerekote are all in the firearms industry as far as I know.
Ive been told you can cerakote a firearm and throw it in the ocean and it won't rust.
I found a guy who was a local police officer who had been shot in the line of duty.
While he was rehabilitating to be able to come back to work he started a cerekote business.
I was in the same line of work at the time but a different agency than him but I knew him.
People like to use the process to customize their firearms with all different kinds of colors.
The process does use a oven and my boxes barely fit into his oven.
The finish on my boxes are not as smooth as powder coat but as far as I can tell it does not chip like powder coat can.
I went with a standard gray color because he had a lot of it in stock and it was cheaper for me to use the color he had.
Below is a link to a cerekote business I googled.
My crekote has not chipped, corroded or changed at all.
Like I said I was taking a chance when I went with the cerekote. I have never heard of anyone else using cerekote in their boat.
https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com
This is not a great photo but I did find it in my gallery.
It doesn't show much other than a grey box.
But just in case you wanted to see what it look like.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/7/248-150316181552.jpeg)
Thanks. I'll start checking around with friends that are into guns to see who does it my area.
Quote from: Tunacious on November 06, 2017, 07:18:17 PM
I had some aluminum seat boxes cerakoted.
It's a process the use to coat guns to keep them impervious to the elimants.
It's been two years and the boxes look like the day I installed them in the boat.
I took a chance doing the cerekote but I would do it again.
X2
The gunsmith I use has a big oven...they are doing motorcycle frames and other items as well. Brimstone Gunsmithing in Camas, WA. They can do anything you can imagine with cerakote.
Sounds like a great option.
I'm finally getting back to this project and thought I would share a diagram that I was able to get from Blue Sea tech support after looking for different ways to prevent draw on the batteries in the off position. The normal diagram puts a draw on the batteries due to the ACR unless you add an additional switch on the relay to ground wire. The attached drawing solves this problem. For those of you who have done the install on your boats you may want to check it out and see as I'm told AGM batteries life will be hurt by the constant draw of the ACR. I'll post some pics once I complete the work.
That's how I set mine up.
here's a further suggestion........add some money to the budget and wire in a smart charge system! I did when I moved my batteries to the place that the porta potty occupied and I am very happy I did. When after a trip I get home , garage the boat and plug in and don't have to worry about "is it going to start next time out"! I think we are mostly guilty of stretching our battery replacement out too long and I have had the "oh no, batteries are dead" problem twice over the years so now I pay more attention to them. 2 new batteries and a smart charger so I am covered for a few years.
For those that have moved batteries and gone to AGM. Did you go with two dual purpose AGM's or one AGM starting and one Dual or Deep cycle for the house? I'm thinking that it is better for them to be the same since the ACR will put them in parallel.
It doesn't matter if they are dual purpose or cranking or deep cycle. The ACR operates off voltage, and it will cut out once it's target voltage is reached.
Most series 24 marine AGM's I've seen are dual purpose. If you step up to 27 size you start to see some purpose built deep cycles. I ran dual purpose Exxide AGM's in my old boat.