I've searched the threads for bait tank ideas and am still a little un-clear on the best way to go. I'm thinking 20-25 Gal tank mounted in the center near the transom with a transom mounted supply pump with the overflow drain dumping in the splashwell. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Pictures of what you have would be great too.
Thanks for the help!
I would send your 1-1/4" outflow over the transom. The hole in the splash well is too small.
Arimadrifter:
For my SC16 I made a trash can bait tank (20gallon) works good, 30 gallon would probably be better. It works good with a half scoop, but I do get some dead sardines, still working the bugs out, but almost there.
I have a transom mount pump works great, just get a ball valve on it so you can adjust the flow. The trash can tanks are cheap and easy to make, but go with a pre-made if you want a simple drop in set up. There are some inexpensive Moeller Marine livewells on Amazon, but I've never seen or used them.
CS:
I took your advice on mine with the 1-1/4" outflow; tired of sardines and scales clogging up my outflow pump. Going to try out the set up Friday.
Fiberglass tanks are the most popular. My tank is 20 gal polyethylene. Either way all of the plumbing needs to be on the outside of the tank. Smooth inside with radiused corners. Nothing for the little guys to bang into while swimming around.
http://mmmwebstore.com/index.php?s=products&category=Bait%20Tanks%20-%20Polyethylene
AJFishin,
Did you use a 20gal Brute? If so, how far below the top of the can did you put the overflow drain? I'm assuming a 20 gallon trash can (Brute) holds 20 gallons to the top of the can? I was thinking of using a 30 or 32 gallon can and putting the top/lid down around 6 inches.
The overflow drain over the transom makes sense Croaker, thank you.
This is a really good article. I have talked with Mark Wisch a few times. His shop is nearby.
http://www.sportfishingmag.com/keeping-live-bait-lively
Mine is a 20gal Brute. My new overflow (not pictured) is about 2" below the top.
And yes, a 30 gallon Brute can is a better choice for DIY bait tank.
Here's a picture of mine. At the bottom is my outflow pump, but I now added a 1-1/4" overflow to it, not pictured.
(http://i.imgur.com/oWLrpiD.jpg) (http://imgur.com/oWLrpiD)
I just built one this week out of a white 32 gallon Brute can (Cash and Carry carries the white ones). My overflow is down about 6 inches from the lid, to reduce sloshing/spillage, so my actual volume is about 25 gallons. Mine is likely going to live on my outboard bracket, so drainage is no issue for me.
Mine is a simple design. Drain is just a thru-hull fitting that takes a 1" diameter plug, overflow at the top is a 1 1/8" thru hull fitting with some soft mesh covering I cut out of an onion bag. Built a "water sprayer" about 20" long out of 3/4" PVC pipe, with 4 1/4" holes in it to pump water out along the edge of the barrel so it flows in a circle. Found some semi-rigid plastic drawer liner at Lowes and used it to build a "shield" for this tube so the anchovies don't beat themselves against it. I attached a hose pipe adapter to the water inlet on the outside of the tank.
My Hewes has a livewell in the rear fishbox, I removed the sprayer for it and replaced it with a threaded fitting + hosepipe adapter. Going to try running my tank off that. If it doesn't work well, I will add a separate pump on one of my annode tabs on the bracket, underwater, and wire it off a Scotty downrigger plug.
I always thought the water should flow in a circle. But the guys in the bait tank business say no.
http://www.sportfishingmag.com/keeping-live-bait-lively
I always thought the water was best going in a circle too. Every small bait tank I've ever seen does have the water go in a circle. That's the first time I've seen an "expert" say that.
Croaker, do you have any issues with too much weight in the boat when the bait tank is in? Do you take water thru the splash well drain? Any issues with weight? Do you have a kicker too?
I put a new 90 Yamaha on mine and am just finishing rigging it. Haven't had it in the water yet but planning to in the next week or so. Is your bait tank all the way aft?
It is all the way aft. I strap it to the motor well with a stainless steel ratchet strap originally used as a transom trailer hold-down. I am pretty happy with it. It is only 22 gallons. Weight is not an issue. I have not paid much attention to water in the motor well ?? Water sloshes in and out all the time from the wind waves while drifting. I do not have a kicker.
Perfect. I appreciate the ideas and suggestions. This is an awesome group! Thanks!
Here are a couple of pictures of my tank. I used a piece of swimming pool vacuum hose I had laying around. Amazing that it has held up so long in the sun/UV.
I used this tank for a long time by taking the battery panel off. When I finally decided that I wasn't going to change anything, I cut the panel to accommodate the hose. I cut a slot instead of a hole so I could still take the panel off and put it back on easily without disconnecting the hose.
I also added a hose fitting on the side panel. (Idea I got from Streamfixer) this allows me to easily remove the tank when needed. A huge unanticipated advantage to this fitting is that by disconnecting the hose and placing the cap on the fitting water cannot be forced into the tank while underway.
To drain the tank, I just take off the cap on the drain fitting, drain the water into the bilge, and pump it out with the Bilge pump.
***Note the white material (Eternabond) on the top of my transom. It is rubber roof repair tape. This stuff works great to seal the molding on the transom.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/6-220917110144.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/6-220917110042.jpeg)
Nice install on the overflow drain. Does the input supply run over the top of the splashwell?
My last Arima had a rule pump mounted on the transom and hose over the motorwell.
On this one, I have a through hull pickup and bait pump mounted in the port battery compartment.
I have used the same $10 garage sale tank on both boats. I have grown quite attached to it. :jester:
(http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=30207&stc=1&d=1312510274)
Does the thru hull Setup work better than the transom mount?
Quote from: Arimadrifter on September 23, 2017, 02:14:27 PM
Does the thru hull Setup work better than the transom mount?
No. They both pump good.
I like the Rule transom mount better because you don't have to drill a big hole in the hull. It is also removable, which is good when you want to remove your bait tank for family outings. It is more expensive. Downside is locating it along with your trim tabs and transducer.
My boat already had the thru-hull installed. Otherwise, I would have gone with the Rule #265 bracket. It is angled just so that the water is forced into the pump while underway.
There is no room on my boat for a ball valve on the thru-hull. (And, no access because of the location under the gas tank) ...I don't like that either. If a hose breaks or comes loose, there is no valve to prevent water from flooding in... No worries with the transom mount.
(http://www.mmmwebstore.com/img/lg/1146-0.jpg)
Good to know. Thank you.
Quote from: Croaker Stroker on September 23, 2017, 02:58:05 PM
There is no room on my boat for a ball valve on the thru-hull. (And, no access because of the location under the gas tank) ...I don't like that either. If a hose breaks or comes loose, there is no valve to prevent water from flooding in... No worries with the transom mount.
CS, not sure how your set up is with your thru-hull, but you're not able to see your thru-hull through the hatch in the center hold? I was thinking if you can, could you add a threaded elbow to a ball valve or just a 90* ball valve, something kind of like this?
(http://i.imgur.com/RTDoOkn.jpg) (http://imgur.com/RTDoOkn)
AJ, Thanks for the idea.
If I lay on my back and stick my arm through the deck plate in my fish hold, I can barely touch the through hull fitting. Next time I take out my gas tank, I will study your idea.
No problem.
Sometimes Home Depot & Lowes doesn't carry those kind of 90* ball valves. But check out McMaster Carr or Grainger or your good friend Amazon Prime :jester:
Croaker,
It looks like your intake comes into the tank about the same level as the drain. Is that right? Also, I read the article you posted regarding water flow. Do you point your intake straight down? Is the intake under water or does it come in above the level of the water?
Thank you!
Yes. Straight down...failed experiment. :jester:
This is not the best bait tank. It is a $10 garage sale purchase. I mounted the intake like that so the sardines wouldn't hit it as they swim around the tank....and less turbulence. Frankly, it doesn't work to keep the sardines alive much better than the original elbow mounted in the bottom of the tank. The water movement from that intake seems to scare them and they all huddle in the bottom of the tank.
The best solution would be a professionally made tank. These tanks have baffles and "compartments" where the water enters and exits the tank without creating turbulence, current, or bubbles in the part of the tank where the sardines swim....turbulance stresses the sardines and they die.
My next step is to purchase a 30-35 gallon fiberglass tank like the Arima tanks, Blue Water bait tanks, or Pacific Edge. After talking to Mark Wisch, I almost pulled the trigger on a Pacific Edge tank. Just couldn't bring myself to spend the $$$$.
Thank you. The more I get into my 20 gal Brute trash can, the more I realize that $300-$400 is not that bad. I seem to have decisions at every step that could make or break the effectiveness of the tank. Top, drain, intake, etc.
I appreciate all the help and advise. I'll post pics once I get it finished and will try it out this winter while crsbbing prior to hauling it to so cal next summer for some live bait action.
I am convinced that the home-made tanks work well.....but only half as well as those built by the pros.
However, my bait stays alive just as long as I am willing to fish. When they die, it's time for me to go home. :jester:
We left at 6:00 with 1/2 scoop, fished till the wind came up at 2:00, most of the bait had died. (Some died by fish) ....we had about 10 lively baits that we released. :shrug9:
I would call that a positive attitude! Right On Croaker!
My home made tank Could have worked if I set the thru hull pickup to work while running rather than use the flush wash down pickup. Notice the hose is already disconnected - we had resorted to dumping buckets of water to help the surviving chovies.
Kim H preparing to gaff Judy's Albacore on our first Tuna trip Oct 2012
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v367/Kodak45/Boats/Fishing12%20Tuna/P1060471.jpg)
When I made my 20 gallon Brute tank I went OVER BOARD :facepalm: and tried to re-invent the wheel, but not to great. So last month I retooled my tank, got rid of my outflow pump for the end of day drain, installed a ball valve to drain & it works great..
Making it was fun and I learned a lot about bait tanks, how they work, what works, etc. But in my opinion what makes DIY bait tanks a PITA to make, is not knowing what parts to get and how to put them together to make everything work properly. Great thing about this forum is, I got some good advice on making mine and by my own trial and error. One thing I learned, make it simple.
Some down falls I see with a trash can bait tanks versus the manufacture ones.
Some water leaks out from the rim (even with a lid on), they can be wide and take up space on the deck, and if you don't put a proper "shield" over your outflow, the sardines will block it up.
With mine trash can, I can usually keep about 90% of my sardines alive for a day out fishing.
https://vimeo.com/235190009
Good stuff AJFishin! Love the video. Does your water intake point down? Do you agree that it's not good to circulate the water counterclockwise?
Clean job on the plumbing. I'm planning to have my drain similar to the way you did yours.
Greg
Quote from: Arimadrifter on November 08, 2017, 07:26:03 PM
Good stuff AJFishin! Love the video. Does your water intake point down? Do you agree that it's not good to circulate the water counterclockwise?
Clean job on the plumbing. I'm planning to have my drain similar to the way you did yours.
Greg
Thanks.
I'm a believer in
not having the water move in a circular motion. I also believe it's better to have the water come from the top versus from the bottom.
I point the intake straight down, not at an angle, and the nozzle is below the water line. This seems to keep the sardines calmer and more intergenic.
I agree with others that have said, a circular motion in a tank, is like putting the sardines on a treadmill.
The drain hose idea came from 3weight which he was referring to another member Secret Spot. I like the idea of using an access plate in the motor well to run the discharge hose through.
http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=4685.0
A few things I learned.
Keep a good water flow, defusing the incoming water, but not fast to create a current that will wear out your bait.
Use a bait net but don't drag your net through the water, let the bait swim into it. Do your best to keep the scales and slim on your bait. And don't leave the net in the tank.
Check out my thread and you will be able to see some good advice I got along with me reinventing the wheel :jester:
http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=14076.0
Also here's my easy end of day drain, better then the pump I had. :facepalm:
(https://i.imgur.com/QWUctVel.jpg)
Awesome. Thank you very much!
How much bait do you run in your 20 gallon Brute?
Half a scoop
Thank you. What did you use to cut thru the splashwell for the access panel? Jigsaw?
I'm using 3/4" plywood for the top. The plan is to epoxy coat it and use thickened epoxy on the cut edges. I may cut the top of the 5 gal bucket down so it fits almost flush on top, but haven't decided yet.
Thought on the top? Problems? Suggestions?
http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/9330-091117103458.png
Arimadrifter,
The bucket idea will work great. :applause:
How will you seal the wood to the trash can...and the bucket to the wood....maybe 5200 ? 🤔
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/9330-091117103458.png)
Yes, I was thinking 5200. I'd like to have the top flat for setting crab pots on. How important is it to have the top of the bucket extending several inches above the top? I was thinking about just leaving the lip so I could fasten a 5 gal bucket lid to the top when running.
CS that's a great idea for a lid! I did some research before regarding "glueing" lids to the Brute can. The material the Brute is made of, doesn't play well adhesives.
BUT with the wood top, I think that changes the game. I'm thinking Gorilla marine epoxy the woods edge to the can,then 5200 the top to make a leak proof top? I think the wood will need to be a real snug fit, so there's no bending?
That is, if you want permanent top, which I think would be a good idea.
There is one issue, not sure about other cans, but mine does not have a lip on the inside of the can for the wood platform to rest on. So maybe have to drill a few holes in the can and insert some stainless steel screws for support?
Arimadrifter
I cut through the splash well with a jigsaw, but first I laid down some blue tape. I traced the inter circle of the cover plate and then cut inside my mark. Then with a dremel and a sandpaper attachment, I widened the hole till it was the correct opening, double checking the backside of the splash well to make sure it was even. Drill my holes through the plate holes, removed the tape, boat life chaulk on the backside of the plate, then once attached, again boat life chaulk around the outside edge.
To drill the hole in the access plate, I drilled a few large pilot holes, then dremeled the width of the hose I was using to make a snug fit.
Regarding the bucket top. As long as the bottom portion is long enough to barely touched the water, you can adjust your top to whatever height you want. Maybe leave at lease a inch, just enough to put a lid on. :twocents:
Getting the plywood to fit perfectly was a bit of work but the lid fits very tight and really stiffens up the 20 gal Brute can. As mentioned, there isn't a ledge inside the can to fasten on to, but the way it's tapered, it's very tight. I'm planning to drill 4 pilot holes thru the side of the can and fasten with screws along with 5200 on top and bottom.
Quote from: Arimadrifter on November 09, 2017, 02:21:27 PM
Getting the plywood to fit perfectly was a bit of work but the lid fits very tight and really stiffens up the 20 gal Brute can. As mentioned, there isn't a ledge inside the can to fasten on to, but the way it's tapered, it's very tight. I'm planning to drill 4 pilot holes thru the side of the can and fasten with screws along with 5200 on top and bottom.
You work
FAST :applause:
What width of plywood did you use, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 ?
3/4" marine grade. I thought thinner plywood might be flimsy. The plywood make sure the tank very solid.
.....makes the tank very solid!
The picture above is the one I put together.
Quote from: Arimadrifter on November 09, 2017, 03:38:39 PM
.....makes the tank very solid!
The picture above is the one I put together.
My bad, I should have read your post better :doh:
Looks great and that's a great idea, I'll have to give a try next week.
I also bought from Home Depot, pretty sure any hardware store might have them, but Light Duty Anchor Points. Along with a tie down strap, it works nicely to hold the tank in place. I got that idea from Croaker I believe.
For my water discharge hose I purchased a 1-1/4 in. x 24 ft. Sump Pump Discharge Hose Kit, from Home Depot, but also can be found on Amazon, which works great and it's cheap, $13
Thanks for the idea for securing the tank. That was going to be one of my next questions. Appreciate all the help and suggestions!
Greg
Quote from: Arimadrifter on November 09, 2017, 12:25:04 PM
Yes, I was thinking 5200. I'd like to have the top flat for setting crab pots on. How important is it to have the top of the bucket extending several inches above the top? I was thinking about just leaving the lip so I could fasten a 5 gal bucket lid to the top when running.
I was going to mention that I don't believe you need the bucket to extend above the top. Extending down into the tank about 2-1/2" should stop the sloshing.
I used a stainless steel transom tie down ratchet strap. You can see it just under the tank lip.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/10/6-220917110144.jpeg)
Thanks Croaker
Here's the intake pickup that works on plane..
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v367/Kodak45/Baitscoop_zps20a24369.jpg)