I don't have as much experience as most on here but this is what I know. I have a pit boss electric box smoker.

1st attempt a couple years ago. dry salt mixture I found online that sounded good... pretty much uneatable for me.. maybe I am a salt wimp.

2nd attempt was Hunters recipe super easy and delicious. Everyone that tried it was happy. (just don't rush the drying stage)

Found the link.

http://www.arimaowners.com/index.php?topic=22556.msg266382#msg266382

It's probably the 13 pitch prop, with large (15.5") diameter. Good power and thrust down low, not so good top end speed. Power down low is great for rough ocean conditions though, where there's more benefit vs top speed you'll rarely get to use.

Davidsea has a 16 pitch prop, and 14.75" diameter. I look at higher pitch as related to higher top end speed, BUT, the motor has to be able to turn that higher pitch prop up to proper (6000-6100 RPM) to be able to get that speed, which means the motor needs the power to get there, or a lighter loaded boat, smooth bottom, etc.

 If they make a 14x15p prop that fits his motor, or something in that size range, that may be the best he's gonna get on his particular boat, assuming there's no other issues going on.

Typical top speed for "most" ARIMAS is in the 28-32MPH range, most of the time, with a boat loaded up for fishing. My2c.

    Yeah, bottom paint can knock off some, but what else is helping to rob the MPH ????

I used to do a lot of trolling for salmon July through September. I'd just hardwire my Scotty DRs with adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors. Come winter I'd cut them, then repeat the following summer.

That was a very reliable connection, never failed.

So that's a pretty stark contrast, and it supports my estimate that Nanserbe's boat ought to do 38 MPH, not 28 MPH.

Something is really off with his boat motor.

Quote from: Tom C on Yesterday at 10:58:18 AMEverybody alway suggests the throttle cable. It's never the throttle cable on modern motors.

Who has performance reports for a 19HT? Can be any HP.

  Nanserbe's 19HT is likely a little heavier than mine, with a kicker, radar and fishing gear, but I have the full bulkhead , reefer, grill, etc.... it's 3050# with full fuel, 3800# on the trailer.  2018 Honda BF115, Honda/Solas HR Titan 3 - 14.75 X 16, with a bit of prop rework on the cupping.
  Perfect conditions - 42 MPH@6050 RPM, average 37-40mph, best econ. cruise 5.7-6 MPG@ 22-24 MPH.  See numbers below, on a 4-day cruise.


 

I found the marinco/scotty plugs difficult/unreliable so I went with a "battery tender" plug for the trap puller and SAE plugs for the electric reels/scotty downriggers/pumps/chargers/etc.

   Same old problem.....the drain will be below the waterline, so a ball valve shutoff needs to be ON the transom at the outlet, not somewhere else.  It's going to be a pull the tank project, plus design/build a reliable linkage to operate the valve remotely.
   Not a solution really, but I did a 'bilge vac' when I rebuilt my boat.  Lots of stuff  that's too big to go through the stock drain collects back at the transom under the tank. I ran some 1 1/2" PVC pipe with a flattened end from right next to the drain hole up to the access port for the bilge pump.  I made an adaptor that couples the pipe to my wet-or-dry shop vac.  With the drain plug in place, dump a bucket of hot, soapy water into the bilge, vac it out, pull the plug and rinse with fresh water, and done.  If you're really lazy, dump the water/soap in BEFORE you go out for a day on the water, and vac it out when you get home.  ( The pipe is the 'black hole' just left of the bilge pump seen below, and the shopvac adaptor.)

   No lead, but some interesting junk.....looking forward to meeting some of you I haven't seen before!