Trailer leaf spring replacement

[Threeweight]

I bought a set of leaf springs to replace the rusty ones on my trailer a few years ago... it too me a while to get around to installing them, but with my boat moored at the marina I finally got around to it.

My old springs were not on terrible shape, but they were getting there.  I sprayed them periodically with CRC rust converter, and it really helped a bunch. I also flushed them religiously with freshwater after fishing the salt. 



Even with that flushing, you can see the salt deposit where the mounting plate clamped.  Imagine what's going on in between the leafs!



My leafs were the "slider" style.  One end is closed and bolts to the trailer mount, the other is open and slides on a bushing.  Think the old bushing was worn out?



Here's the new ones:





I put multiple coats of CRC Corrosion Inhibitor on the springs before I mounted them.  I also gave all the mounting hardware a few coats.  This stuff reminds me of cosmoline used by the military for long-term storage of metals.  Basically leaves a waxy coat of oil on everything.

Lessons learned -- I found the manual and parts list for my trailer on Shorlander's web site, and was able to source the exact replacement leaf springs from Eastern Marine for a great price.  One thing they did not have, though, was the correct galvanized u-bolts and zinc-plated #5 grade mounting bolts.  I had to buy these separately from Pacific Trailers and E Trailers.  The folks at Pacific Trailers suggested not using the metal bushings again, but using a nylon one instead in a trailer used in saltwater... the corrosion will cause the bushing to drag and wear prematurely.

Don't even think about starting this project without soaking the mounting bolts for a few days in the Parts Blaster.  You will need a breaker bar and some heavy duty sockets to get the old bolts off (impact wrench is better).

After you get the parts installed and everything tightened down, put the boat on the trailer and take it for 10 or 20 mile test drive, then tighten everything down again.  The ubolts, mounting plates, etc... will stretch as things settle in.

My old springs did not look terrible, but I noticed right away that with the new ones my trailer sits about 1-2" higher than it did before (the new springs are an exact match to the part # used by Shorelander).  It was definitely time to replace.

[croaker stroker]

Good write-up with pics.. Thanks for posting.

[Tom Mac]

Thanks for the information, the springs on my Shorelander are corroded as well and in need of R & O

[xplorz]

Gonna be doing the same to my trailer soon, along with new tires, wheels and wheel bearings for piece of mind.

[Wrangler2744]

Along the Texas gulf coast the product most boaters use is Corrosion X Heavy Duty.

Here's their link: http://www.corrosionx.com/corrosionx-heavy-duty.html

I use it on my trailer and it works great.  They also make a standard Corrosion X (red can) that can be used on electronics - see their website.  Good stuff.

[GregE]

I continue to be amazed by the level of knowledge and skills on this board.   :applause:

[GoodDays]

a few of the work boat trailers were checked last year... the bolt through the bushing was almost worn/corroded right through !!!

Something worth checking periodically.

GoodDays Greg

[Chasin Baitman]

THis may be an ultra-newb question...but does the boat have to be off the trailer to replace the leaf springs?

[xplorz]

THis may be an ultra-newb question...but does the boat have to be off the trailer to replace the leaf springs?

Mine wasn't. 

But be sure to use jacks and jack stands of appropriate capacity.

[Threeweight]

It is a easier with the boat off the trailer, though.  I did mine during fishing season.... booked some moorage down on the river and put the boat in the slip, then tinkered on the trailer in the garage in the evenings after work.

+1 on  good jack stands and a floor jack.  Good investments for not just this project, but also servicing your hubs and wheel bearings.