Getting ready to install trim tabs on my 16 SC and was wondering if the 1 1/4 screws supplied in the kit would penetrate all the way through the transom. I do not want to hit my gas tank. Anyone know the transom thickness on this boat? If I have to I can go get some 1 inch SS screws instead
They will work fine no way will they get all the way through. Be sure and put a piece of tape or a stop on your drill bit so you don't drill thru and hit the tank.
Thanks Beancounter. I measured the top part of the transom and it looks to be about 1 3/4 thick there. Wasn't sure if it's the same thickness through out the whole transom
The holding power is really the fiberglass. I used 3/4" sms thread on several trim tab installations over the years.
If you decide to use 1-1/4", make sure they are threaded all the way to the head.
Yes, they are threaded all the way. If no worries of going all the way through the transom with the 1 1/4 maybe I'll just use those as they came in the kit and I already have them. I could use 1 inch too, but that's a trip to the store and a few $$$. There's about 16 of them
I got some 3M 5200 for the holes. Should I also put 5200 across the whole bracket?
No not needed and you would need God's help if you ever wanted to remove them like if they were damaged in an accident or just wanted different tabs.
Fisher, assuming you are doing this install alone like I did, I found it helpful to align and mark the holes closest to the left/right edge of the tab, drill and prep those, then temporarily mount the tab with no 5200. Then I marked the remaking holes and lightly center punched them, removed the tab and drilled and prepped those holes. I re-installed the tab using the two edge screws without 5200 and then installed the remaining screws with 5200 first putting some in the hole then coating the threads. This really helped secure the tabs for this process. The goal being to completely seal the hole in the transom and have some of the 5200 around the edge of the head sealing it to the tab. Once done with that I removed the two edge screws and did the same with them. I feel it turned out really well and see no signs of leakage.
Hope that makes sense and is helpful. :twocents:
Quote from: Fisherdv on January 27, 2018, 11:42:53 AM
I got some 3M 5200 for the holes. Should I also put 5200 across the whole bracket?
I suggest Boat Life chaulk, it's worked great for me. I second what Beancounter said, "you would need God's help if you ever wanted to remove them".
Actually, I learned from Brook at SaltBoss that 5200 is not all that difficult to remove in some applications. He applied one of his first kicker brackets to my 19 using bolts and 5200 under the bracket but the powdercoat failed and the surface corroded. He did some research about how to release the adhesive and found out that tension applied at a 90 degree angle will pop it off of gelcoat. So he wrapped a trailer strap around the bracket and attached the other end to my trailer and tightened up on the ratchet- in less than five minutes the 5200 gave up and cleanly departed the gelcoat under the bracket! He replaced the bracket with a newly powercoated model that is still intact.
Thanks guys, I read somewhere they recommended sika flex? I already bought the 5200. If that's not ok, I will get something else. Im only going to put the 5200 on in the holes and screw threads. I'm sure my transom has composite and no wood so even if a screw did leak that shouldn't be a problem right?
It is always best to seal any hole where water may enter the hull. However, the composite core would be imperious to any water seepage.
Do I need to wait the full 7 day cure time for the 5200 before I get it wet?
Quote from: AJFishin on January 27, 2018, 03:26:25 PM
Quote from: Fisherdv on January 27, 2018, 11:42:53 AM
I got some 3M 5200 for the holes. Should I also put 5200 across the whole bracket?
I suggest Boat Life chaulk, it's worked great for me. I second what Beancounter said, "you would need God's help if you ever wanted to remove them".
Ive heard lots of good things about that Boat Life caulk also
I'd let it cure until it is firm to the touch as it will continue to cure under water. On your transom it won't have the kind of hydraulic pressure it would have from a hull fitting forward of the transom.
I usually use Boat Life Seal as it cures in 4-36 hours and is under water rated.
If I do use the 5200 that I have will I ever be able to remove the screws later if needed, or is it really that permanent?
Just put your torque driver with the correct bit to them and they will back right out. Probably get them out with a hand driver but I don't use those so much...
To remove the 5200, just slide a sharpened thin putty knife under the trim tab. I have never had a problem removing things sealed with 5200 this way.
Whatever sealant you use, I recommend coating the entire mating surface to prevent water from sitting between the Trim tab and transom. I also use a small screwdriver to coat the back side of the screw head where it contacts the trim tab, then clean with a rag with a small amount of lacquer thinner.
Screws come out easily.
Quote from: Fisherdv on January 27, 2018, 03:45:35 PM
Thanks guys, I read somewhere they recommended sika flex? I already bought the 5200. If that's not ok, I will get something else. Im only going to put the 5200 on in the holes and screw threads. I'm sure my transom has composite and no wood so even if a screw did leak that shouldn't be a problem right?
I think Arimas have wood transoms, not composite. Am I wrong?
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Quote from: AlexB on January 29, 2018, 07:35:56 AM
Quote from: Fisherdv on January 27, 2018, 03:45:35 PM
Thanks guys, I read somewhere they recommended sika flex? I already bought the 5200. If that's not ok, I will get something else. Im only going to put the 5200 on in the holes and screw threads. I'm sure my transom has composite and no wood so even if a screw did leak that shouldn't be a problem right?
I think Arimas have wood transoms, not composite. Am I wrong?
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The newer Arimas have composite transoms. At least I think they do. Maybe someone else could confirm? Not sure what year they changed
I have received my trim tab kit and will be installing it shortly (if the rain ever stops here in Tacoma). I will be using the 4200 quick set caulk. Does anyone see a problem with that? RK
I've used 4200 before on an aluminum boat and didn't have any problems. I was thinking of maybe using that myself. I think it's just easier to remove and not as permanent as the 5200. And it is rated for below the waterline. Might be a good option if you ever plan to remove the tabs for any reason in the future. What tab kit did you go with?
According to 3M 5200 and 4200 are both effective sealants for under water applications, 5200 is recommended for permanent installations and 4200 for non-permanent. This of course being a very general statement. Personally I consider my trim tabs permanent, but experience dictates that there is nothing on a boat that is permanent.
Both good products, don't think there is one right answer. There is a product out there, anti bond 2015 that claims to break the 5200 bond effectively for removal from gel coat. As many of us have already discovered, that is not such a problem anyway.
West Marine carries. Probably 3X the $ of other vendors!
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/anti-bond--anti-bond-2015--P001174804
Fisherdv, I got the 12"W X 9"deep instatrim as they are the ones installed by the factory. I used 5200 standard set to bed my Arima kicker bracket. It took forever to set but I honestly believe I could remove the bolts and never have to worry about the kicker falling off (but I won't). I also think I will use 1" screws when I put the tabs on and fully bed the backer plate. Stainless screws have a propensity for twisting the heads off and I don't even want to go there. RK
Whats your reasons for going with the shorter 1 inch screws? Are you worried about them twisting and breaking off? I was thinking of doing the same. But, then again, there must be a reason that all the kits come with 1 1/4 inch screws? More leverage I would think. If drilled properly shouldn't be a problem either way
Make sure the holes in the fiberglass are big enough, or else the screws will bind and crack the glass.
J.
J., did you use the supplied screws in the kit?
Was at the Seattle boat show yesterday and talked with Don about this subject. He said to make sure to ream out the hole for the screws so they are big enough, otherwise you will twist off the heads. He also said he uses 5200. Fiberglass and resin doesn't give like wood...
Quote from: JHpls on January 29, 2018, 08:22:43 PM
Was at the Seattle boat show yesterday and talked with Don about this subject. He said to make sure to ream out the hole for the screws so they are big enough, otherwise you will twist off the heads. He also said he uses 5200. Fiberglass and resin doesn't give like wood...
Thanks for the info JHpls