Custom Switch Panels - What Switches?

[kriznol]

I think I'm going to have some custom switch panels made by New Wire Marine for my 19' Arima. About a year ago I had a radar arch installed, and the shop that did the work messed up my dash pretty good in the process of installing a new switch panel. I'm trying to figure out what switches I need for my current electronics, as well as future upgrades. Input would be appreciated.

Panel 1 (to right of and behind steering wheel, where factory panel was located):
1) Bilge 1 (auto/off/man)
2) Bilge 2 (on/off)
3) Wipers
4) Horn (momentary red)

Panel 2 (below starboard windshield where USCG capacity placard was located)
1) Nav/Anchor Light (nav+anchor/off/anchor)
2) Forward Spreader Lights
3) Aft Spreader Lights
4) Washdown Pump
5) Radar
6) Acc 1

I could potentially increase the size of Panel 2 and add 2-4 more switches.

Any suggestions are appreciated!

[kriznol]

If you tilt your head 90 degrees clockwise, you can see the location of the two panels. The hole for the panel on the right was cut too-large and crooked. I could do a 6-switch rectangular panel that would just cover the hole. Or, I could do a triangle-ish-shaped panel that would match the shape of that portion of fiberglass under the windshield and have more room for switches.

[davidsea]

 1)  ABS panel above made to cover existing panel hole, has bilge, 2 wipers, nav. lights, plotter.  ABS panel below has ign.switch, kill switch, idiot lights above, pushbuttons on bottom for horn, w/s washer, w/s defog fan, and aux. bilge pump.
 2) 4-switch panel to left of helm has interior overhead and under-gunnel lights, cockpit floodlight and under-gunnel lights.
 3) Flush-mount engine control (which requires using separate panel shown in 1).  Red arrows - #1 troll control rocker, #2 trim tab switches/LEDs, #3 Fell MOB control.
  It's important NOT to have to reach behind the wheel, and definitely not through the spokes, to reach anything.   I find it's really convenient to have the tab switches close to the trim rocker on the throttle lever when the throttle is advanced for normal cruise.  The MOB switch needs to be nearby as well - if there's a malfunction, you have to use that to reactivate the ignition.
   If you're buying switches - or any pre-made panels with installed switches - imported parts aren't the best place to save money. 

[kriznol]

Nice work! Where did you get those tiny little labels and what switches are those?

[AJFishin]

If you have a dermal and it's attachments, you can make everything pretty easily with 1/8" ABS plastic.

In my SR19 I bought a 6 switch from Bass Pro and installed it on the side, fit perfect, L to R: Horn, Bait tank, Nav/Stern Light, Auto Bilge/Manual bilge, deck lights, 6th is open). I also used my ABS plastic and made a plate to cover the hole where the original switches where for my trim tab switch, but if I end up needing more switches, then the trim tab switch will get moved to the cup holder (like iI had in my SC16) and that plate will hold the extra switches.
I also made another plate out of ABS to install a USB charger and a 12V socket, and then made a plate for my bilge alarm, ABS sheet is great.

[davidsea]

   ABS is great - cheap, easy to work with, can be heated and bent, glued with ABS cement, available in many thicknesses, and very UV resistant.  My go-to is black, textured one side.  There is an ultra-high gloss version, but it scratches very easily, and can't be heated without losing the gloss.
   Downsides:  Does not react well to gasoline, diesel and other light-bodied petroleum liquids.  White isn't very UV resistant, and will yellow over time in direct sunlight.
  My switches are Contura (the real ones, not the import look-alikes) from BlueSeas, and the mini switch labels are from there also.

   Panel, heated and bent, sanded and finished edges, 3/16 black textured ABS:
 

[headduck]

I love how fussy you are David. 

Where do you source the abs?

[davidsea]

  ABS and most other plastics are available in lots of places online, but the descriptions and  the quality are often questionable.   Some of it is brittle, lightweight, non UV-safe, or not heat-formable.   Low-price stuff from eBay is especially risky.   I really like TAP Plastics, but their retail stores are only in WA/OR/CA. It's really great to go into a store and have anyone you talk to know ALL about their products.  If you're in this area, their stores are in Seattle, Belleview, and Lynwood, but they also do online sales and will ship phone orders.
https://www.tapplastics.com

 Be aware that I have a hardtop,  so my switches and panels never get wet.   Canvas guys may want to do things differently .
 

[DevMah]

I would recommend switch panels that are rated CE with a min IP 66 rating
If you are mounting in heavy rain areas then IP67.

Many companies out there, Blue Seas, Marinco, Sea Dog...
Stay away from offshore stuff.


Dev

[AJFishin]

I've bought my ABS off of Amazon multiple times with no issues. Heats up well, can bend easy, and keeps its shape.

https://a.co/d/2OD57iQ

[fishmeister]

Nice work! Where did you get those tiny little labels and what switches are those?

I think these are the labels that you are looking for:

https://www.westmarine.com/blue-sea-systems-small-format-distribution-panel-labels-3827045.html?queryID=19127a9579f98f62051bf44562e35c1c&objectID=3827045&indexName=production_na01_westmarine_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US

[headduck]