Hydraulic steering maintenance?

[Fisherdv]

Wondering what kind of maintenance is needed with the Baystar hydraulic steering. Waves sometimes splash on the ram, and rods and I'm concerned about saltwater corrosion. About all I do is rinse well with fresh water. So other than that should I be greasing the rods, or is that not necessary because it's sealed? Also, if I open the fill cap on the helm to check fluid level will that introduce air into the system? Any advice on any maintenance items I should be doing would be much appreciated

[Marine40]

I would recommend emailing evan.kwiatkowski @ seastarsolutions.com

I added a space between the @ sign so close both sides.

This is Seastar Solutions the manufacture. I met him at the boat show. You can get parts from them as well.


Darren

[Holokai]

I usually rinse really well after trip, A couple times a year I grease where the nipples are on the motor, If I see any rust on it it usually wipes right off since the rods have a film of grease on them, and bleed entire system every other year ( on my usage ).

[Fisherdv]

Are you supposed to put a thin layer of grease on the rods that go into the cylinder, or will that just attract dust and dirt?

[Omega3]

Water is the enemy on just about everything.Gotta keep it out.I don't have hydraulic steering but I am sure my method will keep water out of your ram.Bicycle inner tube and a few zip ties.Make sure its long enough so things move freely.Use enough zip ties to keep water out.Cheap,10 bucks.Works better than any steering boot.

[AJFishin]

Water is the enemy on just about everything.Gotta keep it out.I don't have hydraulic steering but I am sure my method will keep water out of your ram.Bicycle inner tube and a few zip ties.Make sure its long enough so things move freely.Use enough zip ties to keep water out.Cheap,10 bucks.Works better than any steering boot.

Omega 3 I purchased a steersman grease nut which is a lifesaver if you have cables. Check it out, easy to put on and keeps that shaft greased.

[AJFishin]

Are you supposed to put a thin layer of grease on the rods that go into the cylinder, or will that just attract dust and dirt?

Here's a couple links with some helpful information on maintenance, etc..

https://imgur.com/oZVFHRS

Here's a link to the manual, a little more informational:
https://imgur.com/B1KzcMo

[Omega3]

Thanks but my fix is better.Keeps the water out and grease gets hard over time jamming up the cable.The nut does nothing for the exposed end.Constant cycle of grease and water going in the steering tube.A little gear oil in the valve stem and I'm all lubed up.

[Fisherdv]

Thx AJFISHIN

[GHMariner]

The most important thing you need to do every year is remove the large nut that goes on the threaded end of the tilt tube (that's the horizontal tube that connects the transom bracket to the engine itself...the tube on which the engine tilts up and down...commonly mistaken for the "steering tube" because the steering system attaches to it), and make sure that it spins freely.  WD-40 or a good waterproof grease will do the trick. You CANNOT DO THIS WITHOUT REMOVING THE NUT.  If you don't do this, the link arm that attaches the steering ram to the engine bracket will not rotate along with the engine when you tilt it up and down.  This will cause the ram to bind and score, causing a leak at the end gland, which will ultimately lead to a steering system that does not stay straight, or in severe cases, can allow air into the system which can cause the system to become non-responsive.  This is absolutely critical to the proper operation of the steering system, and it really needs to be done every year.  The longer you wait, the harder it will be to remove, and you can end up permanently damaging the tilt tube.  Ask you mechanic what it would cost to replace the tilt tube.  Spoiler alert: It's a lot.

IMO, this is a design flaw in the Baystar and Seastar systems.  The nut should have some sort of lubricated bearing in which the link arm rotates. But according to the Seastar engineers, this is prohibitively expensive and impractical.

[Fisherdv]

My motor has two grease fittings there on each side. Although I will still do as you mentioned yearly

[GHMariner]

Yeah, those grease fittings lubricate the outside (the tilt mechanism) of the tilt tube, not the inside (where the steering system sits).

[croaker stroker]

Thanks GH. I am going to have to check that on my Etec.


For those of you who don't know GHMariner, he is our SeaStar/BayStar representative....

I am new to Arimaowners.com, but was a member on one of the older sites (forget which one), though hadn't posted much in a while.  I have an '89 1511 SeaChaser with a 70hp Suzuki on it.  We mostly use it in South Puget Sound for some casual crabbing and fishing and general crusing around with the family.  I'm a lifelong boater and industry professional.  In fact, I am a factory representative that serves Arima for a number of products found on our boats, including SeaStar and BayStar Steering, Rule Bilge and Livewell Pumps, and Jabsco washdown systems, water pressure pumps, and marine heads.  I am excited to be a part of this online community and be available to answer questions related to the lines I represent and boating in general.

[Fisherdv]

 Thanks Croaker, that's good to know. And thank you GH. Is there any other things/maintainance I should also do yearly or just follow what the bay star instructions say for maintenance? Also I'm still unsure if I can open that filler cap on the helm to check the fluid level without getting air in the system and having to bleed it. Thx

[GHMariner]

Thanks Croaker, that's good to know. And thank you GH. Is there any other things/maintainance I should also do yearly or just follow what the bay star instructions say for maintenance? Also I'm still unsure if I can open that filler cap on the helm to check the fluid level without getting air in the system and having to bleed it. Thx

You should be able to, yes. In fact, you should do so occasionally to check the level. It should be about 1/4" to 1/2" below the threads to allow for heat expansion. The exception being, if you have two helms. In that case, you should never remove the cap on the lower helm.