Well.....I finally made some more progress on the rebuild.
Got the Deck gel coat done and the Custom Belly Tank in the boat.
I have to say, I'm really stoked how it's coming out.
I will get the hoses connected in next few days and then do test run run this weekend.
Tank builder thinks it should be between 46.5 to 47.5 gals.
Here is photo of the new gel-coat deck.
You can see all the new foam I poured peeking out + good view of the removable cross piece in the deck.
I glassed in pockets matching the hatch rails. This allowed me to maximize the size of the fuel tank.
Very nice. :clap:
How did you prevent a gravity leak from the fill tube/fill hose connection ? (They usually come off the top of the tank.)
Good job an the deck too. No more slipping. On fish slime.
The back half was designed to allow my bait tank lines to drop into this void area.
Back half of the tank is 1.5" lower.
Fuel lines will run flat thru the bulkhead, then rise up to original connection points.
If there is ever a break in the fill line......a few gallons could leak into bilge.
I am comfortable with that trade off.
Awesome. Keep those pictures and details coming!
Um....yes please.
Freaking fantastic man.
Here is the rear bulkhead I glassed in for hose and wiring pass-thru.
Way stronger than original.
Next to install is 38 gallon Bluewater Bait tank.
I got a great deal going factory direct.....it's nice knowing the owner.
The hoses will drop under deck and follow thru same opening as the fuel lines.
Just like mine. Randy is a good guy....but I paid full price.
what model do you have?
Quote from: croaker stroker on July 07, 2020, 05:19:06 PM
Just like mine. Randy is a good guy....but I paid full price.
Yes he is!
This is pretty cool.
I dunno if its an optical illusion but seems like your tank is pretty close to the top of the corner of inside liner. I was analyzing my belly tank project to be and the ply stiffeners in my lids extend down a bit over 3/4in below the deck. robs fuel capacity quite a bit. I wish the 21 had one long box like the 19 instead of 2 smaller ones!
I am going to drill a few holes in the liner bottom to see how much space I have below to be able to set the tank on the hull bottom if I cut out the liner. looks like a few inches.
to be able to get max fill it looks like you will have to get the bow down lower than stern. what attitude is your boat when on trailer pulled up to the pump?
If a pump hose reaches to your fuel tank might be better to put a fill cap right on the tank?
Quote from: Tesoro on July 08, 2020, 06:46:36 AM
I dunno if its an optical illusion but seems like your tank is pretty close to the top of the corner of inside liner. I was analyzing my belly tank project to be and the ply stiffeners in my lids extend down a bit over 3/4in below the deck. robs fuel capacity quite a bit. I wish the 21 had one long box like the 19 instead of 2 smaller ones!
I am going to drill a few holes in the liner bottom to see how much space I have below to be able to set the tank on the hull bottom if I cut out the liner. looks like a few inches.
to be able to get max fill it looks like you will have to get the bow down lower than stern. what attitude is your boat when on trailer pulled up to the pump?
If a pump hose reaches to your fuel tank might be better to put a fill cap right on the tank?
The tank sits evenly about 3/4" below the round edge of the hatch opening all the way around. The pic is optical illusion for sure.
When I cut out the fish box, I found about 1 inch under the box aft part of the boat.
It was about 2.5" inches toward the bow.
The deadrise angle is consistent for long flat tank. The center get shallower as you move aft.
My boat sits well on the trailer. I don't think the fill will be any issue.
Will find out soon.
Nice Work!!!
Please post a picture of your boat in the water as most Arimas are tail heavy.. this should make the boat plane faster, stable and sit more level in the water.
By moving the tank to the center that moves close to 300lbs off the rear end assuming your old tank had the capacity.
Dev
Quote from: DevMah on July 08, 2020, 08:42:59 AM
Nice Work!!!
Please post a picture of your boat in the water as most Arimas are tail heavy.. this should make the boat plane faster, stable and sit more level in the water.
By moving the tank to the center that moves close to 300lbs off the rear end assuming your old tank had the capacity.
Dev
With trim tabs and the tank moved, it should improve the ride considerably.
I can't wait to find out
Quote from: DevMah on July 08, 2020, 08:42:59 AM
Nice Work!!!
Please post a picture of your boat in the water as most Arimas are tail heavy.. this should make the boat plane faster, stable and sit more level in the water.
By moving the tank to the center that moves close to 300lbs off the rear end assuming your old tank had the capacity.
Dev
Good deal. Ive got 5in under front part of my box liner and 2 in back. But my box is shorter. Looks like most I could squeeze would be 24 gal with 1/8 in alum. I could live with that.
Quote from: Tesoro on July 08, 2020, 12:48:49 PM
Quote from: DevMah on July 08, 2020, 08:42:59 AM
Nice Work!!!
Please post a picture of your boat in the water as most Arimas are tail heavy.. this should make the boat plane faster, stable and sit more level in the water.
By moving the tank to the center that moves close to 300lbs off the rear end assuming your old tank had the capacity.
Dev
Good deal. Ive got 5in under front part of my box liner and 2 in back. But my box is shorter. Looks like most I could squeeze would be 24 gal with 1/8 in alum. I could live with that.
Bust out the cutting wheel and open it up!!
[/quote]
Good deal. Ive got 5in under front part of my box liner and 2 in back. But my box is shorter. Looks like most I could squeeze would be 24 gal with 1/8 in alum. I could live with that.
[/quote]
Bust out the cutting wheel and open it up!!
[/quote]
on august 8th! ( day after end of salmon season..)
I defiantly want to see how this comes out.
When you post more pictures please give a wider view pic so I can see how the rest of the boat in the pic.
I will be doing full write up for everyone.....step by step.
Too busy right now to slow down.
Extremely cool and useful mod. When you do the write up, any chance of including the build specs on the tank? I would strongly consider this mod before I delve into a skip top.
Quote from: B-TownRanger on July 09, 2020, 03:11:58 PM
Extremely cool and useful mod. When you do the write up, any chance of including the build specs on the tank? I would strongly consider this mod before I delve into a skip top.
Yes, I will be detailed in my write up. Step by step.
here are a few more pics of my progress.
Dry fitted my teak accents.
-Storage locker under dash
-double doors in aft panel to access all the new found space!
I will spray all the rear panels in bedliner. (shoreline beige is the color)
Its really close to Dune beige gelcoat.
Opening is 22 X 15
This is one of the coolest mod designs I have seen yet! I can't wait to see how this turns out as the main reason I haven't done a belly tank is that I didn't want to lose the ability of having my bait tank in the middle of the dance floor. The other big benefit of this design is it gives you a real bilge area! The area under the stock fuel tanks is also the best location for a thru hull transducer. This modification solves multiple issues. I"m wondering if the same could be done in a 21 Ranger and get a slightly larger tank. Also are you putting some sort of shims under the tank to not trap saltwater? I beleive Defiance puts some sort of rubber strips to make a gap between the tank and hull.
What are the approximate dimensions?
Quote from: FishAddict on July 14, 2020, 06:50:15 PM
This is one of the coolest mod designs I have seen yet! I can't wait to see how this turns out as the main reason I haven't done a belly tank is that I didn't want to lose the ability of having my bait tank in the middle of the dance floor. The other big benefit of this design is it gives you a real bilge area! The area under the stock fuel tanks is also the best location for a thru hull transducer. This modification solves multiple issues. I"m wondering if the same could be done in a 21 Ranger and get a slightly larger tank. Also are you putting some sort of shims under the tank to not trap saltwater? I beleive Defiance puts some sort of rubber strips to make a gap between the tank and hull.
Yes, you must have the air gap all around the tank.
Under the tank I used 1/4" Neoprene. I cut out 2" X 4" Neoprene pads.
Attached with ample amount of 3M 5200.
It's not going anywhere.
Quote from: FishAddict on July 14, 2020, 07:09:38 PM
What are the approximate dimensions?
Overall is 82L X 16W X8H
How do you think it will perform in a following sea? I have always felt that the ass heavy part of the Arima helps keep the bow a little higher in a following sea situation. I'm wondering if it will nose dive a little easier? Maybe not since the weight is all on the keel mid ship.
That is SWEET! I would love to put a belly tank in our boat but the fish box being barely forward of the tank and lots of float foam in the stern makes it too much money for too little gain.
Martin3,
Thanks for all of the info and pictures. I really like the idea of keeping the weight centered in the boat and am very curious how your boat will ride and handle when you are done. I have had several boats that had big flat tanks like that and they were often a pain to fill and gas burps were a constant problem. Also on hot days fuel expansion seems to cause more overflow problems with the flat tanks. I think with the right fill and vent location these problems can be eliminated. Looking forward to more pictures and thanks for sharing. BF1
Quote from: FishAddict on July 14, 2020, 10:32:15 PM
How do you think it will perform in a following sea? I have always felt that the ass heavy part of the Arima helps keep the bow a little higher in a following sea situation. I'm wondering if it will nose dive a little easier? Maybe not since the weight is all on the keel mid ship.
I still have alot of weight aft.....3 batteries, oil tank, + 38 gallon bait tank.
The balance of the weight should help the ride.
Quote from: Bigfish1! on July 15, 2020, 11:09:02 AM
Martin3,
Thanks for all of the info and pictures. I really like the idea of keeping the weight centered in the boat and am very curious how your boat will ride and handle when you are done. I have had several boats that had big flat tanks like that and they were often a pain to fill and gas burps were a constant problem. Also on hot days fuel expansion seems to cause more overflow problems with the flat tanks. I think with the right fill and vent location these problems can be eliminated. Looking forward to more pictures and thanks for sharing. BF1
Filling the tank should not be an issue. 99% of time I fill up just prior to launching.
The boat sits slightly bow down on the trailer.....especially when hooked up to the truck.
Quote from: Redhawk on July 14, 2020, 11:13:24 PM
That is SWEET! I would love to put a belly tank in our boat but the fish box being barely forward of the tank and lots of float foam in the stern makes it too much money for too little gain.
fyi something floats because of displacement ( buoyancy = weight of water displaced less weight of the thing floating in it). So a foam filled box will be less buoyant than an empty box.!
Quote from: Tesoro on July 15, 2020, 04:58:39 PM
Quote from: Redhawk on July 14, 2020, 11:13:24 PM
That is SWEET! I would love to put a belly tank in our boat but the fish box being barely forward of the tank and lots of float foam in the stern makes it too much money for too little gain.
fyi something floats because of displacement ( buoyancy = weight of water displaced less weight of the thing floating in it). So a foam filled box will be less buoyant than an empty box.!
That's exactly why I wouldn't want to do it because the whole back half of our boat is full of foam and the last thing I would want to do is have to pull some out. Thanks to a battery, 24 total gallons of fuel (including 6 for the kicker), the kicker, and its bracket on the stern, she is already sitting about 3-4 inches low and I would rather keep the float foam in place and deal with the squat than open up the deck, putting a belly tank in, and barely move the weight forward. And with our older engine we won't get much if any of a difference in economy or range anyway, sitting right now at a hefty 6.4 gal/hr and a new 4-stroke would be about 33 pounds heavier (zuki 60av) than our current engine and in that case we would just move the battery forward and save the money from moving the tank.
Red hawk do u still have the tiderunner?
Mark - yup we do!
I don't know man. There's something about that whole idea of cutting all that glass out of the inner liner, with some of these mods, that gives me the "heebie-jeebies". I'm convinced that inner liner has to add a fair amount of structural integrity to these hulls.
Yat
Quote from: Yachter Yat on July 17, 2020, 09:28:13 AM
I don't know man. There's something about that whole idea of cutting all that glass out of the inner liner, with some of these mods, that gives me the "heebie-jeebies". I'm convinced that inner liner has to add a fair amount of structural integrity to these hulls.
Yat
I agree, that should be a big concern for anybody cutting holes into their boat.
After cutting out the fish box.....I have ZERO worries.
In my case, I opened up the deck and re-did ALL the foam.
I added so much stability compared to original with 4lb foam.
It took 3.75 gallons to fill up when I removed + the VOIDS.
All the guys concerned with how the boat will ride it's been done before and it improves the boat 10fold. With how Marty went about doing it I would put money his will be even better. The added foam supporting the deck was a nice touch this boat is going to be sweet!
The concern of bait tank in middle over the fuel tank being an issue. Also non issue for my build I had 37 iirc gallons tucked in my fish box under a Bluewater 48 tank
Boat sat real level with lots of extra weight too
Wow...I have antenna envy.
That's a battle wagon for sure.
For what its worth.
Im not sure what cutting out the floor does to the integrity of the boat but I do know when my fish box is full of fish, ice, and water my boat handles very well.
I always look forward to the run home after a successful day.
Usually on the way home most of the gas in the rear tank has been used.
Im not sure how much my fish box weighs with a half tote of ice, 50 plus tuna fish at an average of 14 lbs a a piece, along with water to make a slurry weighs but its a lot.
Just the tuna alone is 700 plus lbs.
I limit the number of my passengers of course.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/14/248-290720073236.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/14/248-290720073143.jpeg)
Man that bin full of albies is gonna keep me up at night...
Quote from: disposable on July 29, 2020, 08:03:57 AM
Man that bin full of albies is gonna keep me up at night...
[/quote
I miss the days of Albies in So Cal.......fond memories
No place to get salt/ shave ice Walt?
Quote from: GregE on July 30, 2020, 01:26:46 PM
No place to get salt/ shave ice Walt?
Greg,
I don't know what you mean.
Are you asking me why I don't have shaved ice on my tuna?
I believe it is shaved ice from Garibaldi Cannery. It might have been my own ice. I have a ice machine. Not sure.
Yep, shave ice really packs well- those looks like cubes. Didn't remember you had an ice machine
Quite an enterprise you have
a
Quote from: GregE on August 01, 2020, 10:49:56 AM
Yep, shave ice really packs well- those looks like cubes. Didn't remember you had an ice machine
Quite an enterprise you have
When Im icing my tuna fish I add sea water to my ice along with a little more rock salt.
I make a slurry of ice and water.
It gets super cold and cools the tuna down much faster than just packing them in ice.
Yep, from the bleed bucket to the slurry.
I dip saltwater and haven't added salt to the slurry mix. I do put salt in the kill bags
I thought I would share an update on the boat project.
HOT weather, crappy air, and work (damn it) are getting in the way of my
project......but I am have been plugging away when I can.
New tank is working great. Full capacity is 47.2 gals
I'm pretty stoked it ended up being an exact replacement for stock tank.
Fill is easier than I expected.....no trouble on the trailer.
Ride wise, I feel the boat comes off waves softer with less pounding.
The feel is very noticeable. The boat planes faster and seems to be push through swells better.
I'm very happy with the handling.
Here are a few pics of work I have been dong past few weeks.
I have been focusing on the finishing the electrical system and rigging.
Don't mind the dirty deck.....it is all the falling ash.
Check the space under the splashwell......I love it!
This gives me real bilge access which I feel it critical.
I was able to wire in 2 bilge pumps and new switch.
800 Rule is wired direct with the auto switch.
500 is the back up with manual switch.
The wood is for the 18 gal back up tank to rest on.
More pics
-Teak door opening
-New companion seating
-new helm chair and air pedestal
Skip top looks great in new color underneath.
:clap:
That is NICE ! Great job and I like the added doors, perfect. Moving the fuel tank is one of the best mods for the Arima imo, just wish it wasn't a PITA to do. Again awesome looking project !
what a rad project! questions:
- it looks like you have a circular hatch from your engine well into the rear "tank space". is this true? if so, what's the background on that?
- can you tell me the brand/link for those batteries?
i really hope you keep posting pictures. i'm especially interested in how you'll run/organize your bait tank hoses....
That looks awesome! I really like the teak doors to the old tank space, they remind me of something you would find on a cool old sailboat.
disposable - They appear to be interstate batteries.
Quote from: disposable on September 18, 2020, 02:21:19 PM
what a rad project! questions:
- it looks like you have a circular hatch from your engine well into the rear "tank space". is this true? if so, what's the background on that? That was installed to access the old bait livewell pump. I believe it was factory installed.
The hatch is riveted on.....same as other accessories.
- can you tell me the brand/link for those batteries?
House bank shown in the pic are "Interstate" Group 24's. I like having 2 for the house bank.
Starting battery and Oil tank is on the starboard side.
i really hope you keep posting pictures. i'm especially interested in how you'll run/organize your bait tank hoses....
tank should go in next week
thanks. i meant to ask the brand/link for the battery tray/crown/holddowns...
Quote from: disposable on September 18, 2020, 05:47:23 PM
thanks. i meant to ask the brand/link for the battery tray/crown/holddowns...
I found those at West Marine. Sorry, no link.
Really solid molded plastic with stainless bolts.
Simple 2 piece design. I like the clean open look.
They were cheap too.....like $15.00
Is that a late 60's VW Bug peeking out the back of the boat there?
Attwood battery trays, available in GP 24/27/31. I have 2) GP 27 and love them.
https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Heavy-Marine-Battery-9096-5/dp/B00K8DC01G/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1J5XXO48I39M7&dchild=1&keywords=attwood+battery+tray&qid=1600492938&sprefix=attwood+battery%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-5
Thanks for the lead guys.
Quote from: AJFishin on September 18, 2020, 08:52:34 PM
Is that a late 60's VW Bug peeking out the back of the boat there?
Close......it's my wife's Purple '73. Last yr pre CA smog.
Quote from: martin3 on September 19, 2020, 05:32:02 PM
Quote from: AJFishin on September 18, 2020, 08:52:34 PM
Is that a late 60's VW Bug peeking out the back of the boat there?
Close......it's my wife's Purple '73. Last yr pre CA smog.
Nice, the year I was born. I was thinking 68/69 as the rear window kind of looked a little larger, but was hard to tell. But being a 73 makes sense, very cool though 😎
Quote from: AJFishin on September 19, 2020, 10:34:54 PM
Quote from: martin3 on September 19, 2020, 05:32:02 PM
Quote from: AJFishin on September 18, 2020, 08:52:34 PM
Is that a late 60's VW Bug peeking out the back of the boat there?
Close......it's my wife's Purple '73. Last yr pre CA smog.
Nice, the year I was born. I was thinking 68/69 as the rear window kind of looked a little larger, but was hard to tell. But being a 73 makes sense, very cool though 😎
The Bug has been sitting about 5 yrs, still in pretty good shape.
It was my wife's daily driver from 1990 until about 2007.
She was going to give it to her son, but he did not want the "old" car.
Who turn's down a free car to keep bumming rides??
It's been sitting since 2015. It should not take much more than a new battery and fresh gas
to get it going again. I had drained the tank and lines before finally parking it.
The Bug is hidden on our long driveway, behind our 2 daily drivers and the Arima.
Somehow.....VW people know it's there! About ever other month, someone knocks on our door
asking to buy the Purple bug.
Martin3
IMO you have the best in floor tank retro I have seen for a Arima...
Great work!!
Dev
Quote from: martin3 on September 20, 2020, 10:28:05 AM
Quote from: AJFishin on September 19, 2020, 10:34:54 PM
Quote from: martin3 on September 19, 2020, 05:32:02 PM
Quote from: AJFishin on September 18, 2020, 08:52:34 PM
Is that a late 60's VW Bug peeking out the back of the boat there?
Close......it's my wife's Purple '73. Last yr pre CA smog.
Nice, the year I was born. I was thinking 68/69 as the rear window kind of looked a little larger, but was hard to tell. But being a 73 makes sense, very cool though 😎
The Bug has been sitting about 5 yrs, still in pretty good shape.
It was my wife's daily driver from 1990 until about 2007.
She was going to give it to her son, but he did not want the "old" car.
Who turn's down a free car to keep bumming rides??
It's been sitting since 2015. It should not take much more than a new battery and fresh gas
to get it going again. I had drained the tank and lines before finally parking it.
The Bug is hidden on our long driveway, behind our 2 daily drivers and the Arima.
Somehow.....VW people know it's there! About ever other month, someone knocks on our door
asking to buy the Purple bug.
Guys that like classic VW's will spot them easily, it's a sickness :jester:
Looks Great! I'm looking forward to seeing your bait tank install.
Quote from: FishAddict on September 21, 2020, 01:24:13 PM
Looks Great! I'm looking forward to seeing your bait tank install.
Bait tank install will start this Thursday
I need to install thru hull drain 1st. My plan is to install the 1 1/2" tank drain and valve slightly to Port of the dual transom drains.
The hose will run low in the boat under the bilge liner to the tank passage.
Your bait tank is exactly like mine. Randy makes quality tanks.
Quote from: martin3 on September 21, 2020, 02:01:31 PM
Quote from: FishAddict on September 21, 2020, 01:24:13 PM
Looks Great! I'm looking forward to seeing your bait tank install.
Bait tank install will start this Thursday
I need to install thru hull drain 1st. My plan is to install the 1 1/2" tank drain and valve slightly to Port of the dual transom drains.
The hose will run low in the boat under the bilge liner to the tank passage.
Mine was setup similarly except the drain hose was run in the fish box and then under the gas tank.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/12/1-110819092330.jpeg)
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/12/1-070819101213.jpeg)
Quote from: Danno on September 21, 2020, 02:44:47 PM
Quote from: martin3 on September 21, 2020, 02:01:31 PM
Quote from: FishAddict on September 21, 2020, 01:24:13 PM
Looks Great! I'm looking forward to seeing your bait tank install.
Bait tank install will start this Thursday
I need to install thru hull drain 1st. My plan is to install the 1 1/2" tank drain and valve slightly to Port of the dual transom drains.
The hose will run low in the boat under the bilge liner to the tank passage.
Mine was setup similarly except the drain hose was run in the fish box and then under the gas tank.
That is about same location I will mount the drain.
Nicely done sir. A lot of heart, soul, and love into this Arima. Gonna be a fish catching machine. For sure.... bowdown.gif
Quote from: Wiley on September 22, 2020, 09:50:21 AM
Nicely done sir. A lot of heart, soul, and love into this Arima. Gonna be a fish catching machine. For sure.... bowdown.gif
Thanks.....I'm pretty happy with the progress so far
I got the bait tank drain thru hull installed.
-Perko 1 1/4 XL NPT Bronze thru hull. I fitted to correct length with 3" air cut-off wheel.
-Groco 1 1/4 Bronze ball valve.
-Groco 1 1/4 Bronze 90 barb Fitting
-hard wood epoxy encapsulated base flange
Thru hull cut out was 1 5/8....my Spade bits walked right thru nice and easy.
I bedded the thru hull with 3M 5200 (fast set) and used TSP paste for the pipe thread connections.
I was trying to route the drain hose under the tank floor.....but I determined it will be cleaner following
under the fuel fill hose on port side.
More progress tomorrow.
Looking nice and clean, good job! :clap:
I got the drain line installed yesterday.
Routing is nice and clean, it follows underneath the fuel fill to the tank passage.
Tank will be mounted on 1 inch epoxied plywood pad (west system is drying)
My 3/4 Shields hose order should arrive tonight, for the water inlet.
I'm so impressed with this upgrade it is fantastic! Looking forward to where you put the water pick up and final bait tank mount. How much space do you think you will have between the back of the bait tank and the motor well? Have you thought about a thru hull transducer like the B175? Make sure you put the water pick up where it doesn't interfere with any future transducer placement. I'm thinking the starboard side around 12-18 inches forward of the stern. Ideal transducer placement would be about 8 inches to the port and 12 inches from the stern.
Quote from: FishAddict on October 05, 2020, 06:16:58 PM
I'm so impressed with this upgrade it is fantastic! Looking forward to where you put the water pick up and final bait tank mount. How much space do you think you will have between the back of the bait tank and the motor well? Have you thought about a thru hull transducer like the B175? Make sure you put the water pick up where it doesn't interfere with any future transducer placement. I'm thinking the starboard side around 12-18 inches forward of the stern. Ideal transducer placement would be about 8 inches to the port and 12 inches from the stern.
For now, I will keep the existing 800 Rule on the transom mounted pick up. The pump is brand new.
I will route the water inlet with bulkhead fitting thru the splash well.
Down the line, I plan to add in bronze thru hull for bait pump.
Space between tank and motor well is about 24 inches.
I can squeeze it forward.....but then it gets tight at the companion seat.
I'm good for now with transom mounted HDI transducer.
I will have a lot of room to add in anything I want in future.
:)
I had issues with the transom mount pumps burning out on the way to the tuna grounds. I suspect from cavitation. Another Arima owner installed a bilge float switch on top of his trim tab so that it shut the pump of while on step and turned on while at rest or trolling speeds. His didn't burn out, and kept his bait with plenty of flow.
Quote from: FishAddict on October 06, 2020, 09:00:33 AM
I had issues with the transom mount pumps burning out on the way to the tuna grounds. I suspect from cavitation. Another Arima owner installed a bilge float switch on top of his trim tab so that it shut the pump of while on step and turned on while at rest or trolling speeds. His didn't burn out, and kept his bait with plenty of flow.
Ive never had an issue with transom pumps, I ran one on my Bayrunner for years without any trouble.
Going on 4 years with my transom mount pump, same one. I think some are not position properly and when on a plane they're not picking up water. With mine I can turn it off while running to the grounds and water is flowing in my tank, but I just leave it on because I'll probably forget to turn it back on.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/11/7859-050618185249.jpeg)
Quote from: AJFishin on October 06, 2020, 09:55:17 AM
Going on 4 years with my transom mount pump, same one. I think some are not position properly and when on a plane they're not picking up water. With mine I can turn it off while running to the grounds and water is flowing in my tank, but I just leave it on because I'll probably forget to turn it back on.
(http://www.arimaowners.com/gallery/11/7859-050618185249.jpeg)
Yours does look like it may be mounted a little lower than what I had mine. The front edge of mine was flush with the bottom of the boat edge, and the trailing edge was lower just like a transducer. When I turned the pump switch off it had plenty of flow while on step. The problem was remembering to turn it back on once I got out to the fishing grounds. The float switch on top of the trim tab takes care of that and does it automatically for you. If I left the switch on the pump was burnt out by the time we made the 2-3 hour run to the tuna grounds. This happened on my boat twice and my uncles boat once. I then went to a thru hull pick up and my pump runs all day without issue. For me having live bait once I get to the tuna grounds and the ability to easily swap out the pump if it goes bad during the trip is worth the extra hassle and hole in the boat. I'm glad yours has made it 4 years thats awesome.
I also ran for years with a transom-Mount pump....no issues.
I prefer these over drilling through the hull. (Providing you have room on the transom)
Quote from: croaker stroker on October 06, 2020, 10:40:44 AM
I also ran for years with a transom-Mount pump....no issues.
I prefer these over drilling through the hull. (Providing you have room on the transom)
The installation of transom pump is key.......it needs to sit low just like this.
I mounted a similar transom mount pump, but found it interfered somewhat with my outboard and dropped fuel consumption *significantly*, even when it didn't sound like anything had changed or was otherwise amiss. At running speed of 20-25kts I was down to 2.1-2.3 mpg, after removing it and installing a thru-hull I'm back up at 3.5+. Definitely have to be careful with the positioning of the transom mounts.
Quote from: Chovy on October 08, 2020, 02:47:42 PM
I mounted a similar transom mount pump, but found it interfered somewhat with my outboard and dropped fuel consumption *significantly*, even when it didn't sound like anything had changed or was otherwise amiss. At running speed of 20-25kts I was down to 2.1-2.3 mpg, after removing it and installing a thru-hull I'm back up at 3.5+. Definitely have to be careful with the positioning of the transom mounts.
Hey Chovy,
That sounds like you were dragging a bucket, not a transom pump!
I like the spot where you mounted the intake thru hull.
If I do install, I was thinking same idea. Tucked nicely under the removable deck panel.
Yeah it was not good. That spot works well and I'm very happy with the Groco HSTH-750-W thru-hull and FBV-750 seacock, just had to replace the PVC spa tubing I was using in that picture with black rubberized hose since it didn't seal well against the barbed hose connectors.
Quote from: Chovy on October 08, 2020, 02:47:42 PM
At running speed of 20-25kts I was down to 2.1-2.3 mpg, after removing it and installing a thru-hull I'm back up at 3.5+
Chovy. Holy crap. I don't mean to cast doubt but how confident are you about the mileage cost of your pump? That's a MASSIVE efficiency gain. Did you mean to say *3.1-3.3* and then 3.5+? Even that would be notable but if you're telling me you gained more than 50% better economy I'm gonna put on a headlamp and grab a hammer as soon as I get off this toilet!
I mean according to the Garmin GFS-10 I have wired in I was getting 2.1-2.3mpg running with the transom pump on, and 3.5+ mpg with the pump off, but thru-hull in and seacock closed. yes, it was a *massive* improvement, hence why I took it off and installed the thru-hull asap. I think some of that was I mounted it too close to the center line and it was maybe interfering with the motor, but I was shocked when I replaced it.
Quote from: Chovy on October 08, 2020, 08:08:48 PM
Yeah it was not good. That spot works well and I'm very happy with the Groco HSTH-750-W thru-hull and FBV-750 seacock, just had to replace the PVC spa tubing I was using in that picture with black rubberized hose since it didn't seal well against the barbed hose connectors.
I made same mistake before. Spa tubing looks right, but ID is not right for barbed fittings.
It is made to glue into schedule 40 PVC fittings.
Instead of spa tubing, I always use Shields 148 white sanitation hose, can't go wrong.
Bile pumps, bait systems, holding tanks, etc.
Quote from: martin3 on October 08, 2020, 08:29:22 PM
Quote from: Chovy on October 08, 2020, 08:08:48 PM
Yeah it was not good. That spot works well and I'm very happy with the Groco HSTH-750-W thru-hull and FBV-750 seacock, just had to replace the PVC spa tubing I was using in that picture with black rubberized hose since it didn't seal well against the barbed hose connectors.
I made same mistake before. Spa tubing looks right, but ID is not right for barbed fittings.
That's exactly what happened. I knew to be a little worried when it slipped over the barbed fittings pretty easily and after we launched I had an occasion to test out the seacock :jester:
My dudes, these two gems^ have have joined to birth a new winter project. Thank you both, and my wife curses your names.
Quote from: disposable on October 08, 2020, 08:31:58 PM
My dudes, these two gems^ have have joined to birth a new winter project. Thank you both, and my wife curses your names.
tell her I said Hi
I got the tank in for final dry fit.
All the hoses are set.
The passage ends up at 21.5" between tank and motor well.
More than enough to walk normally.
I will be finishing the milling of the mounting plate this afternoon.
Allow room for the rod holders. YOu might consider putting them on the back of the tank rather the transom panel. Following a side running fish with rods sticking up can be a pain.
Quote from: GregE on October 10, 2020, 02:27:00 PM
Allow room for the rod holders. YOu might consider putting them on the back of the tank rather the transom panel. Following a side running fish with rods sticking up can be a pain.
I might, but I think I have the rod-holders covered already.
-7 SS rod rocket launcher on the skip top
-3 SS holder on each battery panel
-1 SS holder on back panel outside of each door panel
That is 15 vertical Rod holders.
Then there are the trolling and drift fishing holders.
-4 SS 30 degree trolling rod holders
-4 scotty bait caster holders with flush mounts.
I decided to change the location where my fuel filter mounts in the splash-well.
-changed to opposite side for better hose routing.
-Installed 3/4 bulkhead fitting for clean hose passage.
That's where I mounted mine. The filter can will rust around the top edge, so I smear grease around it.
Another idea I thought I might try is to paint that edge with something....or maybe smear 5200 and let it dry before screwing it on. ??
Looking good!! The 21.5" will be plenty to walk through. With the notch you had built in your tank could you have moved the bait tank any farther forward? Another 6 inches or so?
Also can you show what you do for the tank mounting plates? Will it be removable?
Quote from: croaker stroker on October 10, 2020, 05:32:50 PM
That's where I mounted mine. The filter can will rust around the top edge, so I smear grease around it.
Another idea I thought I might try is to paint that edge with something....or maybe smear 5200 and let it dry before screwing it on. ??
Hey Croaker,
How often do you change your filter??
I change mine out about every 40 hrs. (or twice per year regardless of hours.)
If I leave them on for the full year, I see rust.
Brushable Plastic dip would work well to coat the top edge of the filter.
lay a tape line to get a nice clean edge, I might have to try that for fun!
Quote from: FishAddict on October 10, 2020, 05:41:33 PM
Looking good!! The 21.5" will be plenty to walk through. With the notch you had built in your tank could you have moved the bait tank any farther forward? Another 6 inches or so?
[b]I could have moved the tank about another 1.5" forward by using smaller deck plate for the hoses.
I used 4" deck plate that I had laying around. It sits exactly where I planned. The hoses come up at the forward end of the
16" fuel tank notch. Where the tank is now, the passage is consistent all around.
[/b]
Also can you show what you do for the tank mounting plates? Will it be removable?
Removable.....No. It's going to be mounted permanently.
I cut <2> 5/8 marine ply pieces into oval deck plate and laminated together with West System Epoxy.
Once dried, I added 2 additional coats to encapsulate in Epoxy.
The Plate will be mounted to center hatch with 4 SS carriage bolts and 4 SS lag screws to deck.
The tank will drop right over the plate and attached with <10> SS screws and finishing washers.
I will add some pics tomorrow of the mount.
I change it every year.
Racor makes a vacuum guage that mounts to the filter housing.
Good idea on the plastic dip.
Here are a couple photos of my Bait Tank Mounting Plate.
This thing is solid.
After I made the cut outs.....I realized it's the "Millenium Falcon".
I got the tank mounting plate installed today.
<6> 3/8 HEX bolts secure the plate to the rear deck lid.
Here are some more photos.
Space around the tank is really good.
I will screw in the tank tomorrow with <12> #10 SS screws and finish washers.
Thanks for showing me your project today, Martin!
Hey Jose,
It was good meeting you today.
I was glad to show you my progress on the project.
Bait tank installation is done.
Oh yeah!
My wife surprised me with another custom sticker......she actually is onboard with this project now.
Wonders never cease.
Fantastic! Could you have pushed the bait tank another 6 inches forward with the custom fuel tank notch? My 21 appears to have more deck space and it would be nice to have the tank just a little farther forward with a bigger dance floor. It looks like perfect placement on your boat. Did you put a bead of silicone or 4200 around the base of the tank to keep water and fish blood/guts from getting trapped?
Quote from: FishAddict on October 19, 2020, 10:26:13 AM
Fantastic! Could you have pushed the bait tank another 6 inches forward with the custom fuel tank notch? My 21 appears to have more deck space and it would be nice to have the tank just a little farther forward with a bigger dance floor. It looks like perfect placement on your boat. Did you put a bead of silicone or 4200 around the base of the tank to keep water and fish blood/guts from getting trapped?
No, the placement is exactly where I planned for. It can't go any further forward.
I'm happy with the passage between motor well and tank.
If any more forward, I would have to ditch the companion seat.
As far as caulking the lower edge of tank, not yet.
The mounting plate and screws are all caulked in.
I will be caulking in the hatches and low edge of the tank soon.
I want to do 1 test run of the tank before gluing everything in.
Looks great !
Keep up the good work.