Kicker Steering solution - home-made tie bar system.

[Salmon Hobo]

I mentioned in an earlier fishing post that I had fabricated a kicker steering system that is working out great for my Arima. I am using this tie-bar system on my 19' Arima Sea Ranger, but I believe it could be used on other Arima models quite easily.  I wanted to have a top-mounted tie-bar that was easy to take on and off on the water if need be. This bar system ties in my 115 Yamaha to my 9.9 high thrust Yamaha kicker.  I have Sea-Star hydraulic steering so this, I believe would work for other with hydraulic steering, but possibly not for cable steer main engines. 

I originally wanted to make a prototype from inexpensive materials to see if and how I could get my motor steering together. In the end am so happy with it. It steer from lock to lock and is amazing while trolling even in large wind chop and swell.

I wanted to use inexpensive parts originally in case something did not line up or work.  So the basic materials were 5/16 steel rod stock and these unique automotive Throttle Bally Joints. The tapped the rod ends 5/16-24 to fit these ends. The rod ends if you look in the photo have a threaded stud on a ball joint that comes off of them..so this is perfect to attaching to the motors.  I was originally planning on using stainless heim joints but could not find locally so thought give these a try.

I then made up an aluminum plate the attaches to my Yamaha kicker handle. There was already two holes there one a hole and one threaded. I found a stainless bolt for one and still have to track a threaded metric stainless bolt for the other hole soon..just steel now. The plate is 5" long by approx 2 " wide. The 5" is a great length..I tried others and this allow me lots of clearance to raise the kicker without it hitting the fixed kicker bracket and also allows the it to align closer to the main engine and gives the steering tie rod a little more leverage. I also rounded and camfered the edges so there is not sharp edges on this plate.

I drilled 3 holes in the aluminum plate so I had some adjustment but found that the on the far outside ((far left) if facing forward on the boat works best. But this may vary on another boat.

So then the Throttle body stud is slipped through this plate and a stainless nut and lock washer tight it up on there.  Then for the other end I just wrapped a little electrical tape over the threads of the Throttle Ball Joint stud. and this just slips snug into the black part of the Sea Star steering on the mail ( you can see where it connects. The Throttle Ball Joints fully articulate 360 and also up and down swivel ..lots of movement. 

I originally was going to have a nut and lock washer on this but found I do not need it at all!  The stud fits in that Sea Star hole nicely and the tension on the rod never allow it to pop out. AND the bonus is....when I get into a salmon, I grab the rod, then reach down and pop the tie-bar off with my other hand off the Sea Star steering and then I can tiller steer from the back of the boat and adjust speed etc. until the salmon is on the side of the boat I want it.  If you main and kicker are always attached you have to have someone steer from up front or rig up an extra hydraulic stern steering wheel or something. So the easy off is just magic when fighting fish. 

I was taking it off each time but now I find it can stay on with kicker up or down and tie bar stays in the rear well and I have put a small piece of insulation foam there...that I siliconed  to the transom so the bar does not bang or rub.

So total cost was $22.00!!   I am now going to rebend another rod up in stainless steel and perhaps get by with these steel Throttle Ball joints and just replace every year, or just order up stainless heim joints that panther and other companies sell.

The overall length of the bar now that is bent is approx 32.5". I can't recall what the original length was before I bent it ..sorry.  Also I zip-tied some oil line I had to the tie bar so when turning the metal bar does not rub  against the fixed kicker bracket.

OK I hope that inspires or helps a few of you get an inexpensive, functional tie-bar system going.

If you have any other questions etc. let me know..cheers!

SH

[amazing grace]

Sweet, I love it. Congrats. Nothing like not having to steer from the rear :bowdown:
Thanks for sharing

[StreamFixer]

About the same configuration that was on mine.  Unfortunately, couldn't tilt without disconnecting.  Not a problem with the Panther T-4...

StreamFixer

[Salmon King]

Well Done SH!!

I recently picked up a trollmaster II from Russ for throttle control.
I'm planning something similar to your set up for mine. 
Hoping to get it done before Winter BM comes along...