Deep Blue Sea Confusion

[Markshoreline]

I bought a 4 position Blue Sea switch to swap out my 1991 original Arima panel.  I also purchased a momentary for the horn and a 3 position for the lights.  But when I looked at the back of the Blue Sea and the Arima panel it's a bit confusing.  The Blue Sea has two wires already going to each switch, and the Arima has several, in some cases.  At first glance I ran up here and am posting for help.  I've decided not to do the whole rewire right now due to time, $ and taxes and just want to swap out the panel.  Anyone have a clear explanation of how to do the swap?
I'd be very appreciative!    :bowdown:

[SRanger]

in the photo the old panel is on the left and the new on the right Mark?  What is that green cylinder lookin thingy at the bottom of the photo.  That looks like a critical part to me:)  I would add a few more of those! 

Am wondering why you need a circuit board on the new panel.  Does that provide backlighting for the switch label, maybe indicate red/green for on/off?  Here is a diagram if it helps  http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9836.pdf

My basic thinking goes.  You need at least one main power feed into the panel... it should provide power to all the switches.  In the diagram they have the power jumped from each switch to the one next to it.  Then each switch will have wire coming off the hot side (when the switch is in the on position) going to whatever device the switch controls.

But no means an expert here...good luck.

SR

[Threeweight]

All the Blue Sea switches have that circuit board set up... they have built in blade fuses for each switch, and LED lighting for the panel (all the slots glow orange when the power is on but no switches are flipped, then when you flip one it's label glows green).

IMO they are actually much simpler to wire than the old style you have, as there is only one positive feed wire going to the panel, which then serves to distribute it to your various devices.

[DSCS]

If Mark hasn't grown too impatient by then, I'm going to run down and give him an assist this week. The wiring for nav/anchor lights and wipers can be a bit confusing if you haven't worked with it before. Any excuse for some Arima bonding, eh?

Alan

[First Cabin]

So is the cut out for the new BlueSea panel the same(or close enough) as the cut out from the OEM panel?  How much modification needs to be done?

I want to change mine, but I'm not very excited about carving up the dash to make it fit.

[amazing grace]

ej, from the pix it looks pretty close to the same size?

Mark, I assume you have the six switch panel?

[Threeweight]

I had to carve mine... it had the old toggle switches mounted in round holes drilled in the dash.  It's less painful than it looks.

Mark, if you need to enlarge the hole, I'd recommend a cutting bit in a Dremmel (and go very slowly!).  That or a keyhole hand saw... a jig saw will scratch the hell out of everything.

The Blue Sea panel I used had a built in diode for rigging the anchor and running lights... very handy, as it eliminated the need for any kind of complicated splicing or soldering.

[Markshoreline]

Since the Blue Sea is a 4 switch unit it will fit into the same place on the dash with just a little trimming, I think.  Good to be careful with cutting the dash as there is a lot of tender parts right there, some hidden.  It is the morass of wires that mostly concerns me, and what to do with all the extra power wires once switcherd over to the new unit?!

[Threeweight]

Re: the extra wires... pull them all out.  Clean up that spaghetti mess!

One trick... label the wires running from the switch to the stuff you power off it.  You can buy cloth label tape, or use mailing labels, or even masking tape.  It will make it much easier in the future if you have to track down a wiring problem or replace something.

Not sure how your ground wires are run for stuff of the switch, but this could also be a good time to install a couple of bus bars in the cuddy for your negative grounds to simplify your wiring.

[DSCS]

I had to carve mine... it had the old toggle switches mounted in round holes drilled in the dash.  It's less painful than it looks.

Mark, if you need to enlarge the hole, I'd recommend a cutting bit in a Dremmel (and go very slowly!).  That or a keyhole hand saw... a jig saw will scratch the hell out of everything.

The Blue Sea panel I used had a built in diode for rigging the anchor and running lights... very handy, as it eliminated the need for any kind of complicated splicing or soldering.

For anyone following this topic with an eye for installing new panels in the future:
I have found a Roto-zip to be the handiest tool for making/altering holes in fiberglass. Probably about the same as a cutting bit in a Dremmel .

The diode built into the panel makes for any easy hookup, but with the Arimas very limited space for switch panels I would rather have one swith for nav/anchor lights than dedicate a switch for each function. Pretty easy to jumper out a double pole-double throw switch to do the job.

Alan

[GutZ]

I need to replace my switch panel as some of the connections have corroded away.

4 switches, like this ?
1 Running/anchor
2 horn
3 wiper
4 bilge pump

What does the front look like? Model #?  $$$$ ?

Thanks and Good Luck 

[amazing grace]

Gutz, maybe like this one

http://www.bluesea.com/products/1151/4_Position_Switch_CLB_Square

[Threeweight]

I went with the Blue Sea 6 slot "Weatherdeck" panel in white.  Dedicated blade fuses for each switch, and waterproof.  The 6 slot required some cutting to fit, but I like having the room to grow.  I'm currently using 5 of my 6 switches (horn, anchor lights, anchor/running lights, wipers, bilge pump #2).

[Markshoreline]

The weatherdeck is the one I picked up, but now I realize I can get the 6 switch model I will do so.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=113606&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=product_ad_11691&type=pla

[First Cabin]

Thanks guys!  You convinced me.  I'm going with the 6 slot WeatherDeck in grey.  Looks to be the best switch panel on the market.

[GregE]

OK, I'm looking but don't see how you access the ATC fuses.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11690&familyName=Blue+Sea+Systems+WeatherDeck+6+Position+DC+Fuse+Panel

[Threeweight]

The cover pops off (the grey and white part) and reveals the switch box underneath.  Between the lighted labels and the switches is a row of fuses, protected by a rubber cover.

[Danno]

Here's a picture of what it looks like under the panel:



The fuses are under a seal which has been removed in the photo.

[First Cabin]

So you guys all put your horn on a regular switch instead of a push button?

[GregE]

Thanks for the reveal.   :applause:

EJ, I'm guessing you could still run the power thru a button.  Probably easier to stab it quickly

[amazing grace]

seems like I read some where that the downside to that switch panel is you have to pry off that cover to get access to replacing a fuse. Probably not a big deal as it is not a common thing, but may not be ideal to find a tool to pop it off if out on the water with a few things to pay attention to at  once

[First Cabin]

Thanks for the reveal.   :applause:

EJ, I'm guessing you could still run the power thru a button.  Probably easier to stab it quickly

I figure I will put my horn on one of the switches to start.  If I don't like it, I can add a push button later.  Only time I ever recall using the horn is during a safety inspection anyway so it isn't critical....except for the one time I'll need it someday and can't find the switch!!!

On second thought, I'll probably put it on it's own push button...

[Markshoreline]

I also bought a momentary switch for the panel to operate the horn, but am kind of wondering what it would be like to find in a hurry.  I think a big red button nearby would be easier to find.

[Threeweight]

Re: removing the cover... there is a slot in the bottom sized to fit a key, dime, pocketknife blade, fish hook, fork, etc...  None of the items you power through the switches are really life and death, and chances are that in a boat you'll have something that would work.

Re: momentary switches... yah, that would be nicer, but not really necessary.  Only time I use my horn is to scare wake boarders who are not  paying attention, or guys at the ramp who are not paying attention.  As Mark said, you can always swap one of the standard on/offs out to a momentary switch.

One thing I don't like is needed to hunt for which switch is the correct one... that said, I had the same problem with the previous toggle switches.

The big selling point on this unit to me is that it is designed to be water resistant.  Given the tendency for the old Arima windshields to leak, that was very important to me.

[First Cabin]

The big selling point on this unit to me is that it is designed to be water resistant.  Given the tendency for the old Arima windshields to leak, that was very important to me.

My thoughts exactly.

Last summer I drove home from Neah Bay in a heavy rain storm.  Somewhere along the way, water got into the bilge pump switch and shorted the circuit open.  I discovered the bilge pump running when I got home and I couldn't turn it off!  I had to remove the fuse to shut it off.  I don't know if the bilge pump had been running for 5 minutes or 5 hours.  I haven't been able to trust the switches since.

Some amount of rain and sea water invariably runs over the switch panel and after a fishing trip in the salt I like to hose the boat down thoroughly.  It will be nice to have a more trustworthy panel.