During my trim tab install yesterday I had to splice a wire into my ignition loom. I've always just use some usual old plastic wire splices that I've had in my toolbox for years (which I hate using, but it's the devil I know), and found that the one to my lenco's is intermittent. I'm going to dig back in and tighten it up, but it got me thinking - is there a better way to spice wires in tight quarters? Or is there a really great version of the old crimp down wire splices out there that I just haven't discovered?
If I had room I'd cut and splice with solder/heat shrink, but these wires on only a couple inches long coming off the back of my ignition switch assembly. I suppose I could, but wanted to ask for advice before I go in for round two.
If you're talking about the orange auto retract wire you could just connect it to one of your gauges on/off posts that is switched on with key.
If needed, Ancor marine wire splices w/heat shrink work well.
Be sure all splices also have the thermal activated glue in the heat shrink Todd. The automotive splices are on parr with automotive wire. Use only marine wire.
StreamFixer
Quote from: Fisherdv on August 03, 2020, 07:23:54 AM
If you're talking about the orange auto retract wire you could just connect it to one of your gauges on/off posts that is switched on with key.
If needed, Ancor marine wire splices w/heat shrink work well.
This is what I did, simple and works great. You can hook it up to a to any gauge or switch that turns on and off with ignition. After connecting, you can put on some dielectric grease or corrosion inhibitor spray. When I was installing my Lencos, i contacted their tech support for couple of questions and they advised adding dielectric grease to Deutsch connectors as well.
Ancor brand crimped butt connectors and a good crimping tool. Ancor makes butt splices that are made with shrink wrap and glue, but I usually add an additional sleeve of shrink wrap.
Some disagree, but I prefer a soldered Western Union splice (Old School) over crimp connectors. However, soldered connections can only be made using new or "tinned" wire. Old automotive wiring (Arima wiring) can not be soldered well. Even a slight discoloration from corrosion, and the solder will not adhere (cold solder). Cold solder joints can be very problematic. If you are in doubt of your soldering skills, use a crimp connector.
As Streamfixer already mentioned use only tinned marine wire if adding new wire.
We like "Greg's Marine Wire" as a supplier.
All of my wiring is new, from Greg's. That was my first project when I got the boat.
The only unknown is the factory wiring harness from Honda. Since it looks like I need to cut that wire anyway to either make a slice or butt connection, I'll do a solder test when I expose it. I'll also call Honda to verify it's tinned.
I've actually got 2 wires to deal with - the orange wire from the Lenco's and my battery isolation circuit from my ACR. Black/Yellow and Black/White. I'll also have a look further down the loom and see if I can get to a more reasonable spot than just behind the key.
Quote from: croaker stroker on August 03, 2020, 11:28:27 AM
Ancor brand crimped butt connectors and a good crimping tool. Ancor makes butt splices that are made with shrink wrap and glue, but I usually add an additional sleeve of shrink wrap.
+1
I've read from the so called guru's solder joints aren't the best thing to do. Not sure why but that's what I've read.
Also with the Anchor butt connectors with heat shrink be careful with the crimper. Your standard ole crimper/wire stripper pliers will punch a hole in the heat shrink material when making the crimp. These are my most favorite pliers on earth when cutting and crimping https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-909-Crimping-Tool-Cutter/dp/B00004SBDI/ref=asc_df_B00004SBDI/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699532595&psc=1. Just use the area closest to the cutter blade.
I use a separate plier to strip with.
The internet Gurus are probably concerned that a short will happen in a circuit that is not fused and the solder will melt causing the splice to fail. (The reason I use the "Western Union" splice)
Most people do not know how to solder. They don't know which circuits should not be soldered. (Such as battery cables or oxidized wire) ...and crimped connections are easy for anybody to do... Another reason the Gurus may recommend crimps over solder.
Soldered connections are a must for me when the connection will be under water such as on the trailer, or in the bilge. The solder seals the multiple conductors and prevents water from wicking under the insulation.
Tip #1...always heat the wire with your soldering iron and melt the solder on the wire, not the soldering iron.
Tip #2...never try to solder old wire. Make sure your wire to be soldered is shiny and new. Otherwise, crimp it.
I don't recommend soldering unless there is no other option, but use of multi wire butt connectors.
https://www.grote.com/electrical-connections/electrical-terminals-connectors/sealed-multiple-wire-heat-shrink-connectors/84-2629/
Dev
Soldered wire can lead to fatigue failure if the wire leading to the solder joint is not clamped down.
I crimp my wire joints first and the solder followed by covering with adhesive shrink tubing. The shrink tubing helps prevent flex fatigue issues plus I use wire ties to prevent wire movement. I am a belt and suspenders guy when it comes to boat safety. Flux is suggested as it will remove oxidation on the wires before soldering so use a flux core solder.
I think they've banned lead based solder but the military still gets to use it. If you don't have any, look for it at garage sales. Flux core solder is a huge score. When I worked at Epson in Portland, they had us remove all lead based solder so I got full roll. I just wish it was a larger gage.
Crimp connections made with quality connectors and proper tools are actually more conductive than soldered connections. ( Copper is more conductive than lead ) The heat of soldering also tends to degrade the insulation near the solder joint, and flux residue can cause chemical reactions. Solid crimps protected with adhesive heat shrink have been long-term reliable for me, even with flexing and water exposure. I use both a double-action racheting crimper from Excellon Tools, and a Klein crimper just like the Channelock suggested above by Kimbrey. I modified my Kleins by machining off the cutter tips, so they are a crimper only. In tight quarters, like behind the helm, it's way too easy to crimp one wire and cut off another one at the same time. :facepalm:
Quote from: davidsea on August 18, 2020, 12:47:48 AM
Crimp connections made with quality connectors and proper tools are actually more conductive than soldered connections. ( Copper is more conductive than
Copper is more conductive but marine wire is tin plated, right? The fact that solder will reflow if the connection is over heated due to a short is why I crimp first then solder.
Quote from: davidsea on August 18, 2020, 12:47:48 AM
I use both a double-action racheting crimper from Excellon Tools,
Can you post a specific model number? I bought a ratcheting crimper and all it does is flatten the crimp. I don't think it's makes a quality crimp. My old style crimper does a better job but takes a lot of manipulation to get it right. I'd like to get to a crimp only process.
On a side note, my trailer lights failed recently because the crimper used penetrated the heat shrink tubing causing corrosion in the crimp.
My ratcheting crimpers are about 30 years old, and a real quality tool. The stick-on brand label is long gone - seem to remember 'Excellon', but a Google search comes up empty for electrical tools. One side has the model# ASA 0760, the other says 'made in Sweden'. The closeup shows the configuration of the jaws. Other possibilities on Amazon are below. I've always been pleased with Klein products, and $25 seems like a deal. Chinese alternative for $5 less claims to be designed for heat-shrink connectors, but who knows.
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=ratcheting+crimper&qid=1597898346&sr=8-5#productDetails
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YZ4QGPC?pf_rd_r=XZCBC5JVJP46P6QF7NCA&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee#productDetails
Klein tools decent budget friendly
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5
I use the Greenlee
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-45500-Standard-Insulated-Cycle/dp/B000WTCWC8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2QFBQD7KGJG4R&dchild=1&keywords=greenlee%2Bratcheting%2Bcrimper&qid=1597901462&sprefix=Greenlee%2Bratcheting%2B%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-2&th=1
Dev
This may be overkill but this is how I have always done my butt connections on any wiring that might have any chance of exposure to water........ basically 4 heat shrinks at the connection.. especially important for any trailer wiring that will be submerged.
1. Slip the needed heat shrink tubes over each end of the wiring out side of the connection.
2. Use the appropriate marine grade with adhesive heat shrink butt connector and do a solid crimp connection.. no soldering.
3. Slip the yellow shrink tube over the top of the butt connector and then heat shrink that.
4. Then finally slip the two black shrink tubes over the ends of the yellow tube and heat shrink those.
Keep in mind that the yellow shrink tube actually used is longer than the cut off piece that you see in the pic..
(https://i.imgur.com/bdqYNM0.jpg)
For hear shrink connectors this tool is my go to:
https://www.sailorssolutions.com/?page=ProductDetails&Item=WP042
This may be overkill but this is how I have always done my butt connections on any wiring that might have any chance of exposure to water........ basically 4 heat shrinks at the connection.. especially important for any trailer wiring that will be submerged.
1. Slip the needed heat shrink tubes over each end of the wiring out side of the connection.
2. Use the appropriate marine grade with adhesive heat shrink butt connector and do a solid crimp connection.. no soldering.
3. Slip the yellow shrink tube over the top of the butt connector and then heat shrink that.
4. Then finally slip the two black shrink tubes over the ends of the yellow tube and heat shrink those.
Keep in mind that the yellow shrink tube actually used is longer than the cut off piece that you see in the pic..
I also use liquid electrical tape after marine grade heatshrink if the wires will be closer to moisture, like bilge pump wires. Kind of a belt and suspenders and more suspenders kind of solution.
I wanted to share to write-up/resource that I can across sometime ago that thoroughly talks about wire termination and the benefits of using heat shrink connections. The article has real like examples that demonstrate the unbelievable strength of heat shrink but connectors. Also, what tools to use and what type of heat shrink work best is addressed. Article at:
https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/